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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon


Shane: Hi, I'm Shane with etrailer.com. Today, we're going to be taking a look at I'm going to walk you through the installation on a Draw-Tite class three Max-Frame trailer, Tricia on our 2018 Subaru Outback wagon. Hitch is going to allow you to move stuff cargo from inside of your vehicle, to the outside, to give you more room for your passengers. As you can see here with our Draw-Tite hitch on our Subaru, most of the hitch is going to be hidden up behind our bumper fascia. It's going to maintain a clean look on the back of the vehicle. The only thing we can really see is our receiver tube the edge of our receiver tube is nice and flush or level with the outer edge of our fascia.

So we don't have to worry about hitting our legs or shins on it when we're loading and unloading the vehicle.Now, one thing that's going to set this hitch apart from others is the other hitches they'll have a cross tube. That's going to show right across the bottom of the fascia, along with our receiver tube, there is one other hitch that is very similar to the Draw-Tite and that's the EcoHitch it's going to mount up the same way behind the fascia. And it's going to look very similar on the back of the vehicle, but our outside hitch is a class three, it's going to be a two inch by two inch receiver tube opening. We have a nice reinforced collar to give us a little extra stability there, hitch pin hole, which is this hole here is going to be five-eighths inch in diameter. It's going to take a standard five eight hitch pin.

Now the hitch pin and clip does not come with a sitch.However, it can be found here at etrailer.com. This hole here is for a j-pin stabilization device only. And what that does is it takes the shake and play out of any of your hitch mount accessories. We're going to have rolled steel style safety chain loops. You can see, we have very large holes that will accommodate different size safety chain hooks.

You'll notice with this hitch, very nice thick welds around our receiver tube. We're going to have a lot of stability there. As far as the finish, it's going to be a single black powder coat finish. So it's going to hold up really well against any rust or corrosion. Now, as far as our weight capacities go, we're going to have a 600 pound max tongue weight, which is the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube.

The number's important. Maybe you have a cargo carrier or something on there.You want to make sure that you don't exceed that downward pressure on that tube. As far as trailer weight, 4,000 pound gross trailer weight, which is the trailer plus the load included. I always recommend checking the owner's manual of your Subaru to make sure the vehicle can withstand the amount of weight you're going to go to the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch. Now, as I mentioned before, very similar hitches, the EcoHitch, again, it mounts up the exact same way, the only differences, it may have a little bit better finish. However, it's going to weigh about 15 pounds more and the tongue weight is going to be a little bit lower and the trailer weight's going to be lower. So that may be concern if you're hauling heavier trailers or maybe you have a bike rack that holds four bikes, you get one of those bike racks in the hole for four bikes.It gets a little heavy, a little in heavy there. And with the ego hitch, you may get a little bit of flex in that receiver tube. Where with the Draw-Tite you won't have that. In my professional opinion between our Draw-Tite and our EcoHitch, I would go with the Draw-Tite. It's going to have a higher tongue weight, higher trailer weight, and it's going to be about 15 pounds lighter. So it's going to save us a little bit money there, and it's going to allow us to pull a little bit heavier trailers if we need to be a great addition to the Draw-Tite hitch will be trailer wiring. Trailer wiring, when you have your trailer hooked up, it's going to allow your trailer to receive light functions from your vehicle like your running lights, brake lights, and turn signals so that you're not only legal, but you're safe while you're towing that trailer.I recommend to conscious trailer wiring. It's been known to hold up very, very well for a long, long time. You can find that the Contra wiring harness along with the Draw-Tite hitch here, etrailer.com. Now let's give you a few measurements to help you. When deciding on any hitch mount accessories, you may need such as a bike rack, ball mount or cargo carrier from the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost part of the bumper. It's going to be about three inches. This number is important for any of your hitch Mount accessories that may fold up against your vehicle from the ground to the top. Innermost part of your receiver tube is about 16 inches. This number is important for any of your hitch Mount accessories. That may require a little bit more ground clearance. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. We're going to start by opening our hatch Phillips screwdriver. We need to remove both taillights. There's two plastic Phillip pushpin fasteners, or fasteners here on the inside of each light. And they should pop out. Just like that. This panel will pop off here.Phillips set of screws here, take two Phillips head screws out here. Okay. Let's pull back on our light like that. We're going to go ahead and disconnect our light. I'll just pull the lights out. All we do is twist them. This one here, we pushed down to disconnect the plug, set our light aside. Repeat that process on the other side of the vehicle, you're going to have a little cap here. You can take a little Flathead screwdriver, stick it on the top there. You just want to pop that out to get access to that Phillips screw. Go ahead and remove that one also on both sides.In each wheel well, you're going to have a pushpin fastener right up here in the corner where your fascia meets the side of the vehicle. The center of it you just push in like that and then kind of pull now like that. You can loosen it up. OkayYou're going to pull that out. You have one of those in each side. If you have the mudflap easy way to take it out a little wrench like this, the Phillips head screwdriver on the end or Phillips head bit. If you don't have a wrench like this or a regular wrench that will hold that Phillips head bit will work just fine. You're going to have a couple of screws in here. Right back in here, you're going to have a push pin fastener, take your screw driver. You're going to pry out the center, just like that. And then we're going to have one right down on the bottom here in the corner, come out the same way, just pry the center, bring up base. And we'll set this aside to be reinstalled. And then from underneath the vehicle, we're going to the same pushpin fasteners that run from one side of the vehicle around the back to the other side. And they all come out the same way pry out the center and then the base.we're going to start pulling our fascia off. If you have sensors, you're going to have a plug right here on the driver's side, underneath the fascia that you're going to need to unplug. So don't just take your fascia and pull it off. We're going to do is we're going to start from the very outside and work our way to the center. Let's pull out with this, just like that. And here's your plug right here. Just going to push this tab and pull up. We can set our fascia side, pull our foam piece off. We're going to take a 14 millimeter socket deep well with an extension, we're going to have four nuts holding our bumper beam in place. We need to remove all of that.We're going to have four of them on each side. Pull the bumper beam off, take our hitch and we're going to re-install our bumper beam. And then re-install our factory hardware. We're going to torque our hardware to the specifications in the instructions. You're going to have a tab right here in the center. Go ahead and bend that up. If you have trouble getting your hitch on, you might have to bend that up first, before you put your hitch on. If not, you end up just like I did it bends up just fine. Hitch went on, just fine. Put your foam back on. And then we're going to trim our rear fascia.Per our instructions. We need to Mark out the cut out for the bottom of our fascia from the center hole. We're going to measure over two inches. That's going to give us our center line on our fascia. No, go two inches this way, two inches. That way, giving us this four inch wide and then up four and a half inches. I'm just going to use a Dremel tool with a cutting blade. This is you could probably use a utility knife. You'd probably have to score it several times to get it through, but it will work. If you don't have a Dremel tool, we'll take a utility knife and clean up inaudible 00:09:51.Now we can test fit our bumper fascia and see if we need to make any changes. So it looks like we're pretty well lined up here. Once you've test fitted your fascia, you may need adjustments necessary. Go ahead. And re-install it in reverse order from the way you took it off. If you have sensors, don't forget to plug in your sensor wire and you're ready to go. Again, I'm Shane with etrailer.com. Hope this video has helped you, whether you're still deciding or installing the Draw-Tite class three trailer hitch receiver on your 2018 Subaru Outback wagon..


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