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Draw-Tite Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver Installation - 2018 Ford F-350 Super Duty

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How to Install a Draw-Tite Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2018 Ford F-350 Super Duty

Hi there 350 owners. Today we're going to be taking a look at CURT's front hitch for your 2018 Ford F-350 Super Duty.This is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. You will have to trim out a hole in the Air Dam at the bottom of your bumper so the receiver can pass through, but the rest of our hitch is going to be hidden completely behind that Air Dam so it won't detract from the looks of the vehicle too much. This'll add a 2" by 2" receiver to the front of your vehicle so you can add any accessories that you'd like here in the front. Whether you're wanting to put a extender in here to use with your ladder rack or if you're wanting to just mount a bracket that you can put in here with a winch on it so you can easily remove and add a winch.Items are secured to the receiver using a 5/8ths hitch pin and clip, which slides through the hole closer to the rear of the vehicle. One doesn't come included with the hitch, but you can get one at here.

You'll also notice that there's a small hole just to the front of our hitch pin hole and that will allow us to use a J pin. A J pin's very similar to your regular hitch pin, but a small portion of that is going to loop around and go into the small hole here and the other end of our pin, rather than securing with a clip has a threaded nut so when you tighten it down it pulls that J portion of the pin tight against whatever is in the receiver here acting as an anti rattle device.It features a 500 lbs tongue weight, which is the force going down on top of the receiver and that's going to be more than enough for a snowplow, if you wanted to put a plow in here, and it's also going to be great for your hitch extenders if you wanted to put one of those in and use it with your ladder rack to add some extra capacity over the cab of the vehicle.It also features a 5,000 lbs gross towing capacity, which is how much that it can pull in the receiver safely, and this is really if you wanted to hook up a trailer or something you wanted to move it around. 5,000 lbs is the recommended maximum for it. It also has a 9,000 lbs pull line limit, and this is really if you're going to be using it for a winch application. If you want to put a winch in here that is the maximum pull that we can put on this, so if we're using our winch and we're pulling something down, we don't want to exceed that with our winch.Now, I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on your accessories.

From the center of our hitch pin hole to the front of the vehicle here where it hits our license plate, we're looking at about 3-1/2". This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories are going to come in contact with the front bumper, and from the ground to the top inside of the receiver tube, it measures about 14".Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's go over the installation together so you can have the confidence to do it at home. We'll begin our installation here at the front of the vehicle by trimming out the lower Air Dam here to allow the hitch to pass through on the back side. I've gone ahead and marked out the area that we want to cut. The one you see here in the center is the center line of the vehicle.

That's the first thing you'll want to do is find the very center. A lot of times an easiest way to do this is to have a string with a weight on it and just hold it at the top and the string you naturally pull itself down. If you just hold that string in the center, you can mark the line as it goes down and then refer to your instructions for the measurements to mark out there. We'll then use a cutoff wheel to cut this out. You could also use a drill and drill out the corners and then use a small saw or something else if you want it to as well.Once you've got it all cut out, you can just push this piece out, and then we can use a file or a razor knife to go back and clean up all the rough edges.

That'll just knock off all these burrs and smooth it out to make it look a little bit nicer. We can then remove our electrical connector on our frame rail on the driver's side. We're just using our trim panel tool or a flat bladed screwdriver just to pop that off, so that way it's off the frame because it's going to interfere with our hitch sliding up. We'll then see bolts located here on the inside of our frame rail, just to the front of where we popped this connector off. We're going to be removing both the nuts on these. We'll use an 18 millimeter socket to remove the nuts.Now that we've got the nuts removed from each, the two studs that are sticking through, we're going to need to remove completely. You do have fish wires included with your kit. You could attach those if you are afraid, you might lose it in the frame, but we've got a nice large opening here in the front, so if we just poke them in there, it's going to fall down and then we can just reach over and grab it. We're then going to repeat this same process on the other side.We'll now take the coiled wire that comes in our kit. We're going to go through the slotted hole in the bottom of our frame and push it towards the front. We can then take our hardware that we're going to feed out the bottom hole here, which is going to be the spacer with the offset square hole. Slide that over our coiled end and then thread one of our carriage bolts onto the coiled end. Once we thread it on there, we can take this hardware and push it back up into the frame where our coiled wire came from and then just pull it back down. We'll then take our coiled wire and we're going to do the same thing for our side holes here, so we want to take the coiled end, go through one of the side holes, and then we're just going to grab it, bring it over.This time we're going to be using the spacer with the square that is in the center. We're going to slide that over our coiled end, feed our carriage bolt on it again, and then we're going to push this up into the frame and then pull it until it comes out the hole. We're going to repeat that again for the hole that's just to be front of this one, and then we're going to perform all of this on the frame rail on the other side.Once you've got all the hardware fed in, our side bolts, we're going to take those and just push until the bolt just sits right on the inside of the frame there. We'll do that on the other side as well.We'll then need to put our spacers between our hitch and the frame when we go to lift it up, and this is pretty hard to do if you're just going to be holding all this at the same time, so I highly recommend taking some tape, just like we did here, and attach your spacer to it, and then we're going to line the spacer up over the hole and just tape it to the hitch. You can then cut the tape and we're going to repeat that same process for the other hole right here. Make sure that the holes line up, and cut it, and then you can just take a screwdriver or your scissors, whatever you're using there to just knock out the center so your bolt can go through. We're going to repeat that over on the other side as well.We can then take our hitch and we're going to lift it in position. I'm going to start by getting my receiver through the slot that we made in the front. This is just going to help support it while I'm holding it. Then we're going to take our fish wires and feed them through the corresponding holes in our hitch. We're going to do the same thing over on the other side. If you have your wiring here, you could disconnect it real quick. That would probably make it a little bit easier when lifting everything up here, and then we can lift our hitch up into position. We're just going to roll it into position, pulling on our fish wires as we go.Once we've got our hitch in position, you can either pull your side bolts through to hold the hitch up or you could pull one of your coiled wires off and put a nut on the bottom one. There should be a conical tooth washer that goes on here, but just to help us hold the hitch up we're just going to slide a nut on it real quick, and we're going to slide a nut over on the other side as well.Once you've got a piece of hardware installed on each side, the hitch will hold itself up, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware. You can now kind of maneuver it around and pull our bolts through on the sides. If your spacer moves out of the way a little bit, you can just use a screwdriver to kind of maneuver it around. Once you've got your coiled wire through it, you're not going to lose it. Here we go, and we'll do the same thing over on the other side.Now that we've got all the hardware fed through, we can take our coiled wire off. When you go to pull your coiled wire off the side ones I recommend you keep some pressure on the bolt with one hand the whole time so it doesn't fall back into the frame. You can then slide a conical tooth washer on it with the teeth facing towards the hitch, and then thread a nut on it.We're going to repeat that for all of the remaining hardware. If your bottom bolt, you did like we did earlier when we just put a nut on it just to hold it up, don't forget to remove that nut. Slide a conical tooth washer on it with the teeth facing towards the hitch, and then reinstall it. We can then go back and tighten down all of our hardware using a 19 millimeter socket, and then we can torque the hardware to the specifications found in our instructions.We can now plug our electrical connector back together. If you did disconnect it, if you just popped it off to get it out of the way, you just want to click it back in place. If you look at your frame rail though, your hitch is going to be covering it up, but on your hitch there's a slot there just like you had for your factory original. It looks like we actually have to run the wire underneath the hitch in order for it to line back up.We're now ready to load up our favorite front mount and accessories and hit the road.That completes our installation of CURT's front hitch on your 2018 F-350 Super Duty.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Sharon M.

Will this fit a 2015 F450 front?

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Victoria B.

This front mount hitch starts fitting with the 2017 model year. I have linked the front mount hitches available for your 2015 Ford F450 Super Duty.

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