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Draw-Tite Fold-Down Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Ram 2500

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Fold-Down Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2012 Ram 2500

Today on our 2012 Ram 2,500, we're gonna be taking a look at the draw tight fold down gooseneck trailer hitch, part number 8339-4435. Here's what our gooseneck looks like fully installed. It's gonna have a heat treated two in 5/16 ball and it's gonna be right here and it's gonna have full access to make it easy when you need to hook up your trailer. Now, when you're not ready to tow or if you need to put anything in your bed, you can grab this ring here, which you can see is plenty big. I have gloves on and can still grab it. We'll lift up, we're gonna actually turn our ball over, and push it down.

Now we have full access to put whatever we need in our bed. Another nice feature is it has built in grease circ 00:00:50 fitting right here so whenever we need to make sure that our ball is nice and greased up, we'll be able to access it right here, and then again lift up on the ring and our ball is ready here and we're ready to tow. We even have spring loaded safety loops so whenever we do hook up our trailer, they'll be here when we need them and they retract back down under the bed when we don't. Now as far as when it comes to installing this, there's not gonna be any welding or any need to raise the bed. We're simple gonna install it with the rails from underneath without having to worry about taking the exhaust completely out and we won't have to do any drilling in the frame as well. It's gonna use all our factory holes and we'll only have to cut our holes in the bed itself. This hitch does feature a 6,250 pound vertical limit. It also has a gross trailer weight rating of 25,000 pounds.

I do want to mention that you want to double check you vehicle's owner manual to make sure that your vehicle can handle that weight. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how we got it installed. To begin our installation, I'm gonna be removing our rear tiers as well as our spare tire to give us a little bit more room. To make the installation a little easier, we're going to lower our heat shield right here. I'm going to be using a ten millimeter socket to remove it. You're gonna have two bolts here as well as two right where your spare tire would be. Now we are going to have to lower our exhaust and we're gonna lower it off the hanger right here as well as one back here and then finally towards the very back of our vehicle as well. I'm gonna be using a strap to go around our exhaust so that it doesn't fall all the way down and damage anything.

If you have these metal clips on the ends of your hangers here, you can use a flat head screwdriver. I'm gonna pop them off. The clips are gonna look like this. They use this from the factory to keep the rubber hanger on there and we won't be putting these back on. If you're having trouble getting the hanger off, it may just take a little bit of extra force or you can get a pry bar or whatever you need to get the rubber off that metal stem there. Now, the hanger back by the muffler is also gonna have a different style clip on it.

Each one of these ends is gonna be going around the stud. It's gonna have a small strap holding them together. Now, I'm gonna go ahead and set that aside. I'm gonna go ahead and remove my last hanger. Our exhaust didn't come down as far as I wanted it to, so I'm gonna go ahead and take this one more hanger down. Keep in mind, I do have that strap supporting our exhaust. We can go ahead and remove this one as well. Next, we're gonna take our cross numbers here. They're both the same, but they face different directions. We're gonna start out with the rearward cross section first. You want to make sure that the holes are facing upward and for the rear one, we want this flat piece to be going towards the back. Our cross number in between our frame and our bed. Just like that. Then we're going to loosely get it into position and we're gonna pull it back to this bed support right here. It might take some wiggling back and forth work. We're gonna end up with it just like that. Now we're going to take our other cross number here, and we're gonna make it face the opposite way. Still having the holes facing up, but we want that flat, vertical piece to be towards the front of the cab. We're gonna put this in the same way. We're gonna go slid in one end. It may take some maneuvering and a little bit of patience, but we can slide both of our cross numbers in just from under our bed here. We're getting ready to install our side plates here. Again, each one of these brackets are the same. You want to make sure you have this ear right here, it's gonna be towards the back of the truck and we want to make sure that it's going towards the inside of our bed so it's sitting like this on each side. We're gonna lift this up slowly into place, and you're gonna want to mount the cross bars and the forward holes on the top here. We're gonna be using this hole right here for the stud on our rear cross bar and this most forward hole for our front cross bar. We're just gonna set them in place just loosely over our cross bars just like that. Now that we have our plate in place, we're gonna come back and we're gonna put a 5/8 flat washer followed by a lock washer and then finally followed by our 5/8 nut. We're gonna put this on there hand tight for right now. We're gonna do the same thing on the other side. This one's loosely in place and we're gonna get the one on the other side in place. With our frame brackets in place, we're gonna be getting our U bolts right here and we're gonna come around our frame. We're gonna line our U bolts up and have them coming back to the outside. Next, we're gonna take our conical tooth washer. We're gonna make sure that the teeth are facing the hitch like that. We're gonna follow it up with a half inch nut. We're gonna put these loosely on there for now and we'll repeat the same process for the remaining nut. Now, our other U volt's gonna be going right here. Again, I'm gonna come around the frame like that. I'm gonna come back with my conical tooth washer, follow it up with our half inch nut. We're gonna do the same thing on the other side. Now on the driver's side here we do have a lot of break lines, electrical components and other things. Now, we need to make sure that our U volt is connected to the frame and not on top of our wires here. We're gonna loosen this cable right here that's attached to the frame so that we can get our U volt underneath the wires instead of on top of them. Remember just to use a flat head screw driver to start help working the clip out from the frame. We're gonna take one more clip loose over here so we can get behind this bundle of wires. We're gonna take our U volt, we're gonna make sure that we can get it between our break lines and we're not crushing anything and underneath our harness. Now that we have it loosely in place we can line up our holes. Now that we have our U bolts in place, we can start putting our hardware. This is gonna be the same as the other side. The conical tooth washer facing the hitch. On the driver's side here, we have a ground wire going across the top of our frame and it attaches right here on the side of our frame. We found once we had our plate put up there, we couldn't get our U bolts to attach. We had to loosen this, which you're gonna be using a 10 millimeter socket, and you're gonna take the wire off, take the plate off, and you're gonna want to run the wire on top of the plate and reattach the ground here. Our next step is going to be taking our fish wire and we're gonna need to run our hardware out to the bottom of our frame bracket here. I'm gonna take my fish wire in the coiled end. I'm gonna put a small bend in my fish wire and basically if we can come out any hole in the frame to gain access to our fish wire, that's what we're looking for. I'm gonna try on this bottom hole here and here we go. Here's my fish wire. I'm gonna pull it so the coiled end is sticking out just like that. You want to make sure that you still have the other end of your wire sticking out by the frame bracket here. You don't want it to go all the way in. Next, we're gonna take our carriage bolt spacer right here. We're gonna put it over the coiled end of our wire and then next, we're gonna take our carriage bolts and we're gonna thread it onto the end of our wire. Now we're gonna put that spacer block, we're gonna push it into our frame inaudible 00:10:16 along with our carriage bolts. Now, we're gonna pull our wire back to the frame bracket and we're gonna wiggle it loose until our volt sticks out the bottom. We're gonna leave it just like this so we don't lose the bolt and it doesn't feed back into the frame. We're gonna do the same thing for the other side of our frame. Now with our hardware ran, I'm gonna pull our fish wire off. Again, I'm gonna take my half inch conical tooth washer with the teeth facing towards the hitch, followed by a half inch nut, and I'm gonna secure it onto our hardware. You do want to be careful because it is sitting in the frame and you don't want to push it back up into the frame. What I like to do is I'll get my washer on and then I'll push one direction so it'll trap the bolt and then I can get my nut started. We're gonna do the same thing on the other side. Underneath the truck here, we're gonna take our front cross bar and we're gonna make sure that it's sitting flat and up as afar forward as we can get it. I'm gonna be using a clamp to keep it in place. Now we're gonna come out to the outside of our frame brackets and we're gonna torque down the front cross bar to our frame brackets. If we come up to our 5/8 bolts on our front cross number here, I'm gonna torque this down to the specified amount in the instructions. I'm gonna be using a 15 millimeter socket. In this step of our installation, we're gonna leave all of our rear cross number bolts loose. Now that our 5/8 bolt is torqued down, we're gonna go ahead and torque down our half inch bolts holding on our U bolts on the front bracket. Now that we have our three bolts holding our U bolts and our front cross number tight, we're gonna leave the rear one alone right now and we're gonna go ahead and tighten the other front cross number on the other side. With our front cross number torqued down, we're gonna come to the long slotted holes right here and towards the outside edge, we're gonna be drilling a hole and I'm gonna be using a quarter inch drill bit to start my hole and we're gonna be inaudible 00:12:36 those holes later on, but we're gonna drill a quarter inch hole towards the outside of this slot and we're gonna go all the way through the bed and through the bed liner. See here are the two holes that we drilled from underneath. I'm gonna come back with a step drill bit. I'm gonna drill these out to about a 5/8 hole. Here we have the paper template that comes with our kit and to make our life a little bit easier, we'll be using the metal template. We can pick one of these up on our website using part number 6425. If we align it facing with this as the top and this is facing towards the cab, we align our template and it'll line up with the two holes that we just drilled so once we get our template lined up where we need it to be, we can mark our other holes and we can mark a few holes here to drill out so we can cut this center section out. I'm gonna go ahead and mark the center of my holes here. We're gonna have two on the bottom and we're gonna mark four holes on the top. Then for our center section here, I'm actually just gonna do a quick little outline. Now I have the holes of where we need to drill. I'm gonna be drilling again a quarter inch hole in each one of the holes that I marked to start out our pilot hole. You do want to double check underneath the bed to make sure that nothing's going to interfere with drilling, whether it be the gas tank, break lines, or any other electrical components. Here in this center section, you can see that I marked on the corners. I'm gonna drill a small hole on each one of thee corners and then I'm gonna come back with a jigsaw, that way I have somewhere to put my blade in and I'm gonna cut this section out. Again, I'm gonna be using a quarter inch drill bit. Now, depending on the size of your blade, you may need to drill a larger hole just to get your blade in there so you can start cutting. You can see I cut my hole out. After I cut my hole, I came back and I had a de burning bit here and I took it on my drill and I went around the edges and cleaned up all the sharp edges, making sure that I cut my hole to the right size. Now, I'm gonna take the center section of my hitch, making sure that it's facing the correct way. It'll say, "Vehicle forward" with an arrow. We're gonna slide it into place and it should sit nice and flat. If not, you maybe need to come back and trip a little bit around the edges to make sure everything sits in there nicely. Now we're gonna be drilling a pilot hole to each one of our rearward holes back here. Next, we're gonna come back to our rearward holes and again, I'm gonna be using a step drill bit. I'm gonna drill this out to about a 5/8 hole. Now to make sure I got my holes large enough for my bots, I'm gonna pull out the center section of my hitch again. I'm gonna set it aside and I'm gonna make sure that I got that hole large enough for our bolts to go through. With our holes drilled, I'm gonna go ahead and put this back into place, making sure everything lines up. We're gonna come back and we're gonna drill these holes out to a 5/8 as well. Now that we have all our holes drilled, I pull our hitch out and we're gonna install these spacer blocks in the shallowed part of the corrugation of our bed. All we really need to do is have them lined up so that the shallowed part has a spacer block butted up as far as you can against the raised part. That's gonna take up some space whenever we tighten down our hitch so we don't crush our bed. We have them loosely in place. We're gonna take the center section and we can slide it back into place. The spacer blocks might move, but that's okay. Like I said, just as long as the hitch is sitting nice and flat and we don't have to worry about crushing the bed in the shallow part of our corrugation. Next we're gonna take our 5/8 carriage bolt and we're gonna slide them down into position in the forward most section because now we're gonna need to go underneath and line up our holes for our rear cross number so the bolts can fall down through. Under the bed here we're gonna do the same thing with the shims. We're gonna find the low spot. We're gonna make sure that our shim goes around it butting it up against to the other spot on our bed so we don't crush our bed when we torque everything down. Now we're gonna get ready to secure our carriage bolts. We're gonna take a 5/8 lock washer along with a 5/8 nut and we're gonna secure it onto our carriage bolts. We're gonna put those on there hand tight for right now. With all of our hardware in place, we can go ahead and start snugging them down. I'm gonna be using a 15/16 socket to tighten everything down. Now we're gonna torque down our 5/8 carriage volts to the specified amount in the instructions. Now inside the bed here, we're gonna take our two U bolts. I'm gonna slide them down just like that and we're gonna go back down underneath and connect them down there. Here's we're our U bolts came out. Now we're gonna take a flat washer followed by our spring here and we're gonna slide it up over the U bolt. Then we're gonna take another flat washer, put that underneath our spring and then finally we're gonna take a lock washer and we're gonna put that right there on the bottom and put that hand tight and repeat the same process for the remaining bolts. With all of our hardware in place, we're gonna tighten these lock nuts up until there's at least three threads showing at the bottom of our U bolts. With our U bolts and safety chain loops in place, we're gonna go ahead and start tightening down our frame brackets here. I'm gonna be using a 15/16 socket to tighten down the 5/8 nut. We're gonna torque it down to the specified amount in the instructions. Now we can start torquing down our half inch bolts. I'm gonna be using a three quarter inch socket to tighten them down. With this side torqued, we're gonna do the same thing and repeat the same process on the other side. Now with everything torqued down, the only thing we have left to do is put everything back together. I'm gonna re hang the exhaust, put the heat shield back on, put the wheels and tires back on, and put the spare away. That will finish up the look at the fold down gooseneck trailer hitch part number 8339-4435 on our 2012 Ram 2,500.

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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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