Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2013 GMC Sierra

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2013 GMC Sierra


Shane: Hey, everyone, Shane here with etrailer.com. Today I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 and I'm going to walk through how to install Draw-Tite's Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Hitch. This is going to be designed for hauling your gooseneck trailers. It's going to be completely underneath the bed. Our ball, when we're not towing a trailer, can be flipped over to give us complete bed access. Our ball itself is going to be two and 5/16ths.

The hitch itself is going to have a 30,000 pound gross towing capacity with a 7,500 pound vertical load limit. Check the owner's manual of the vehicle. Make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight. You want to go with the lowest number, never want to exceed the towing capacity of the vehicle itself.Our safety chain loops are spring loaded, so when we're not using them, they stay pulled down in the lower corrugation, again, to give us total bed access. If we want to slide some plywood in here, maybe some drywall, we don't have to worry about it getting damaged by any of the parts from the hitch itself.

Our ball is actually going to have a handle, so it makes it easy when we have it in the stored position to remove it when we're wanting to use. You also notice, on one side of the sleeve or one side of the ball, it's going to have a groove. What that's for, is there's a pin on the inside of this hole that aligns the ball so it doesn't spin inside the hole.Other than our hardware, all of our underbed components are going to be a steel construction with a black powder coat finish, so it's really going to resist rust and corrosion. All of our hardware is going to be stainless steel, so we're not going to have to worry about rust and corrosion there. Hitch is going to stay working nice and looking nice for a very long time.

Our handle is going to be a very easy pull handle, going to have a nice rubber grip. You simply pull out, pull to the side, and it will lock the pin open. When you're ready and you got your ball in place, whether in the stowed position or you're ready to use it, simply push the handle over and it snaps right back into place.As far as the installation process for this hitch, it is a little bit demanding. Constructions are a little bit difficult to understand if you're doing it at home. If I was going to pick one to put in my truck, I would put in a B&W.

Not that this won't get the job done, but again, the installation process is going to be a little bit more trying. The hole for this, the directions are a little bit off on where they want you to put it. I would probably add about maybe an eighth to a quarter of an inch from the edge of your bed, if you have an open bed like this. If you have a spray-in bed liner, you're going to add that eighth to a quarter inch, plus you're going to add in another 16th of an inch for that bed liner thickness.Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's walk through how to get it installed. To start your installation, if you have anything in the bed of your truck, you want to make sure you remove it. If you have a drop-in bed liner, go ahead and remove that. If you have a spray-in bed liner, we'll go over in just a little bit what you need to do if you have that. Remove your spare tire and it's going to make your installation a lot easier if you remove your wheel well liners.To remove your liners, I've already taken out the fasteners, you're just going to have two seven millimeter head bolts on this side and two on that side. You're going to have some push-pin fasteners right along this top edge. You're going to have three of them. Remove those. The way you're going to get it out is have a trim panel tool that has a hook on it. You're going to pull out one of the corners at the bottom, to where you get your liner pulled out outside of your fender. You're going to take this and hook it in there and we're going to run it right up along that edge and get this inside edge pulled out here. We should be able to just drop it down. You're going to have to pry on it a little bit to get it pulled out. You see, as you run it up along that edge, it pulls that out like that.Once you get the inside line out, you're going to have to, on the very inside here, you're going to take it and you're going to have to push it over your leash springs, so like that. Then, we can slowly just start to pull it out from behind our tire. You're going to have to work it. You can see this truck's a little bit damaged. It'll probably be a little bit easier for you without having this lift here, because we could just pull it out.Next, up here in the bed, we're going to be drilling a hole. You want to make sure you check underneath to make sure there's nothing that we're going to damage. Some of the things we're going to need, quarter inch drill bit, three and a half inch hole saw bit, some spray pint, some Rust-Oleum spray paint, so we can spray the bare metal once we open the hole up. You don't necessarily need this, maybe a marker. This actually comes in handy. If you take a piece of plywood, take your bit, mark it in the plywood. I'll show you, once you start drilling, it keeps your blade from jumping around, and a vacuum to clean up your shavings.What we're going to do, is we're going to measure from the edge of our bed, make sure it's not from the tailgate, per the size of your bed. Then, we're to mark in the center. I'm just going to put a dot. Then, what we want to do, is we want to make sure it's centered between the wheel well. It's about at 51, just a little spot there. Take your quarter inch drill bit, we're going to drill a pilot hole. If you're using a board, set your board down over the hole, get that lined up. It's a good idea to take your leg and you set it right behind the grip on your drill, because as the corrugation changes, when that starts to grind into the different levels there, it's going to start kicking that. It's going to start kicking this. You want to make sure you have something solid, so that you're not hurting yourself.If you have a file, might be a good idea just to file down the edge of this before you spray it. Once you cleaned up your shavings, again, we're going to use some Rust-Oleum paint and we're going to paint that bare metal edge. We're going to do this on any holes that we drill in our bed. Later on, we're going to be drilling a couple more holes for our safety chain loop. While we're letting that dry, we're going to go down underneath and get prepped up for getting our cross bars and our gooseneck head in place.Driver side frame rail, right in front of the hat channel, you're going to have a bracket on the top of your frame rail that holds your hard lines on. We need to take a trim panel tool, pry out the center, and we'll pop that out of the frame rail, like that. We're going to end up moving this, because we're going to have a bracket that sits right in here. We need to cut out our heat shield. We need to cut out in front of this hat channel. Now, you can go up to . Your front cross member is going to sit right in this area. However, once you cut this off, this is going to be loose and you probably don't want it to rattle. We're going to do it from the front side of our rear hat channel to the back side of this front hat channel.I'm going to use a cutting wheel. Tin snips would probably work. I'm going to try to do it without having to lower the exhaust. I'll probably have to use a couple different things to get it out before we're here. We're going to start with this and see how far we get. Once you get your heat shield cut out, the heat shield on your gas tank, this flap that sticks up over the top of your tank, we need to come down about an inch. You can either cut that off or you can just bend it down. What I'm going to do, is I'm going to cut this angle and I'm just going to fold it down, like that.Next, in our driver side wheel well, we're going to notch out this bottom flange to get our brackets in place. Might be a good idea if you take a jack and jack up the frame, so it lets the axle hang a little bit so you have room when you're putting your cross member in place. You cut them out. You can see where I have them marked there. I'm just going to use a rotary tool with a cutting blade and go ahead and notch that out. You're going to have two brackets, they're going to look like this. You want these holes to be on the top. For your back bracket, these two square holes are going to be towards the hat channel. When you do your front one, it's going to go in like this. We'll get our back one slid in place. Make sure you don't just shove it in there, because you do have lines there. Get it in so far, then I'm going to go underneath and I'm going to pull it across and then set it on the other frame rail.Next, we're going to take the four 5/8ths carriage bolts that come in our kit. In the square holes, we're going to place one in each of the square holes, like that. We're going to do that on both rails. Next, in your head assembly kit, you're going to have four 5/8ths carriage bolts that are going to look like this. We're going to take these. These need to go in each of the square holes in our cross members. Take it, slide it back like that. Do the same thing for this one.To help you get it fairly centered, these holes that we're on top of this, the two center ones, if you split that with the hole, that'll help you center up your cross members. You slide it across each frame rail, that'll help you get it set in place. Your rear cross member, what we're going to do is we're going to push it up against the hat channel. You can take some vice grips and we're going to clamp it right to the hat channel to hold it upright, so that we're able to get our head assembly in a little bit easier.Next, we're going to work our hitch center section into place. We're going to feed these two holes onto the bolts. You want to make sure that this spring for your handle is facing towards the driver side. I'm going to go ahead and remove these two bolts that I put in for the front cross member. Couple things I had to do or I found out when I was having trouble getting it in, is this exhaust pipe right here, you can see where it's touching, I actually had to take the bolt out from this side so I had a little bit of room to play with it or to move it. Also, the clamp that I put on this side, when I got it in there and stuck it up in the hole, it was pushing that way because this side wasn't pulling back against the hat channel.What I did, is I took that one off from over there, moved over to this side and hooked it onto the hat channel, took another one and stuck it right here on this side into this bottom hole, that way it's pulling flat up against the hat channel. When I went up and looked at it, it was centered. Now what we're going to do, is we're going to take a conical tooth washer, teeth facing towards the hitch. We're going to put it on each one of our bolts here and we're going to install a nut, same thing on this side. We're just going to loosely install these right now.This hole right here in the frame rail that's right behind your hat channel, on the inside of the frame rail, there's another hole. You're going to take a carriage bolt, spacer block and your pull wire. You're going to thread the bolt into the spring into the pull wire. What we're going to do, is we can do this two different ways. The holes are the same size. We can go from the inside or the outside. We can take our carriage bolt, drop the head in there, in the block, and pull it out like that. We're going to take this large spacer block, looks like this, and slide it on our bolt like that.We're going to take our frame bracket. You'll notice there's a point here and this is squared off. We're going to take our pull wire, we're going to go through this hole. Our hat channel is going to fit right in here. Our two cross members, one's going to go here and one's going to go in one of these two holes. We'll start with this, get it like that. You may have to take your clamps off. If you find that this plate is a little bit too hard to get on one side, you may have to loosen up the four nuts that are attaching your two cross members to your center section so that they'll spread apart a little bit.Take a conical tooth washer again, teeth facing towards the hitch, put one on each of those, followed by a nut. This one, we're going to pull the wire off. Try not to let your bolt fall into the frame rail. We're going to put on a flat washer, lock washer, and a nut. Then, you're going to have a block like this. The single hole is going to go towards the top, these two holes are going to be towards the bottom. These are going to go on the inside of the frame rail. This hole here is going to be for our top bolt. Then, you'll have two holes down below. We'll just figure out which one we're going to put it in. I believe it's going to be this one, which is right up against the frame rail.We're going to take the single hole, we're going to go up above our frame rail, slide our carriage bolt in like this. We're going to go through that hole in our outside frame rail. If these lines are in your way, just bend them back just a little bit. These are brake lines, so you want to make sure they're not going to break them or anything. Just pull them out of the way a little bit, just like that. Our bottom one, right through this bottom hole, just again right up against our frame rail.Then, for each of these, we're going to put on a conical tooth washer. Again, make sure the teeth are facing towards the frame bracket. Once you get the hardware and bracket on one side, you're going to repeat that process on the other side. We're going to come back with a three quarter inch socket and a 15/16ths and we're going to tighten our hardware on our brackets and then we'll move in and tighten the hardware for our center section.Once you have everything tight, you're going to come back and torque it all to the specification in the instructions. We're going to start by torquing the bolts that are holding the frame brackets to the frame rails. We're going to move up and we're going to torque the bolts or nuts that are holding the frame bracket to the cross members. Then, we'll move inside and we'll torque the bolts that are holding the center section to the cross members.Next, we're going to drill out for our safety chain loops. You'll notice the corrugation, this is raised and this is lowered. We're going to use these two holes on each side of the head. We want to make sure we're going through the lower corrugation. You're going to center it in the middle of the lower corrugation. They're going to tell you to drill a 9/16ths hole from the bottom. What I like to do is use a small drill bit, drill a pilot hole, and then use a step bit on top to come back down.What we want, is we want these to be able to move freely. Once you get them where they can move freely, we'll put them both back out, clean that up, and then we're going to spray that down with some . Once you get your holes drilled out, we're going to have some springs that look like Christmas trees and some flat washers. We're going to put the flat washer on the wider end of the spring and on the bottom side we're going to put a lock.Next, we're going to take a three quarter inch socket. What we want, is we want the head of that bolt to be about flush with the edge of the nut. We're going to do that same thing with the rest of them. Next, we're going to install our handle. You're going to get a sleeve and you're going to slide it over like that and just feed it on. We're going to take this end, we're going to come over to the frame rail and go into the pin, going right through the head. You'll have a clip that'll run right through the hole, just like that. Once you're done putting in your handle, go ahead reinstall your spare tire. Make any adjustments if you have an aftermarket exhaust. I just threw some spacer blocks in there so it wasn't rattling on the bottom of the hitch head. Reinstall your fender liners and you're ready to go. That's going to do it for our look at and installation on the Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Hitch on a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500..


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