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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Traverse

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How to Install a Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Chevrolet Traverse


Rob: Everybody, Rob here at etrailer.com and today we're going to be taking a look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Chevrolet Traverse.Now our hitch is actually going to be behind this panel right here, so when we're not towing, we can have a really clean factory look for our Traverse, we're not going to have a big old hitch sticking out. But when we do want to use it, we just loosen up the two knobs here on the bottom, and pull the panel out, and we'll have access to our hitch, we can put any kind of hitch mounted accessories in there.But then we need to make room on the inside of our Traverse, we have cargo carrier back here, loaded up with gear, making more room. Or if we want to hit the trails, we could put a bike rack in there, carry some bikes with us, or clearly we can use the hitch to tow a trailer.Now our hitch is going to be a Class III, which means it's going to give us that two inch by two inch receiver tube opening and have the widest variety of accessories available that we can mount up. Now regardless of what kind of accessory you're going to be using, they're all going to mount the hitch pin hole here on the side. Our hitch is going to accept a standard inaudible 00:01:07 pin and clip. Now these are not going to come with the hitch, but you can find them here at etrailer.com, along with some locking devices to make sure your accessories are secure, or anti rattle devices to cut down on that rattling noise when we're driving down the road.But if you are going to be towing a trailer, you need a spot to hook up your safety chains and here it's going to be a loop style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube.

And with the normal size hooks we have plenty of room to get them hooked on or take them off. And even if you have those large oversized hooks, we still have room to get them engaged and take them off.Draw-Tite has also went ahead and added this bracket to the left of the receiver tube, to make it really easy to mount up your trailer wiring so it's nice and secure. And if we have a 4-Pole, it should fit behind this cover so we can still have that really clean look.Obviously you want the hitch to be up to the task that we're putting it to, so we'll go over the weight ratings. Our hitch is going to have a 750 pound tongue weight. That's the downward pressure at the end of the receiver tube.

To put that in perspective, we'll be able to maximize the carrying capacity of some really large cargo carriers or we'll be able to put a bike rack in there and carry maybe even up to four or five, maybe even six bikes with us.Now the hitch is also going to have a 5,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. That's how much the hitch can pull, but that does include the trailer itself and everything we have loaded on it.Now it is designed to work weight distribution systems as well and that's going to be a separate component that's mounted on your trailer and our weight ratings are going to stay the same. But with all those numbers in mind, you want to double check your Traverse Owners Manual because we don't want to exceed the manufacturer's recommended weights.I'd like to give you a few measurements, these are going to help you out whenever you're looking for accessories for your new hitch. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is going to be right about five inches. Now that measurement is going to help you whenever you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have enough room to put them in the upright storage position without making contact with the rear bumper.From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is going to be right about 20 and three quarter inches.

That measurement is going to help you whenever you're looking for a ball mount, so you can find the appropriate riser drop to match up to your trailer.Now as far as the installation goes, it is going to be a little bit more involved, but the end result is going to be a really clean look. So we are going to have to remove the fascia, which can be a little bit nerve wracking for some people, but rest assured is definitely something you can do at home, there's no special tools required. And let's go and walk through the installation together.To begin our installation, we want to open up our rear hatch and if we come right to the inside edge, just the inside of where the tail lights are, we'll see on the inaudible 00:03:47 section of the body here, we're going to have several fasteners holding it in. We'll start with the one at the very bottom here. We'll see it's got a large washer around it.

We need to remove that bolt that's in the middle. So we want to grab a T20 Torx Bit and remove that bolt and the washer. We'll move over to the other side and pull that one out as well.Now if we move up, we'll see that we have two plastic covers right here, we're going to grab a real small flat blade screwdriver or something, coming on the top, we should be able to pop those covers open. Once we have them open, it's going to expose the bolt on the inside. I'm going to grab a seven millimeter socket and pull both of those bolts out. We're going to move over to the other side and take the other two covers off and remove those bolts as well.We're going to want to move to the rear wheel well now behind the rear tire. Now if we look inside, just the inside edge where the pane is, we're going to have several fasteners that's holding the wheel well liner in place. Want to grab a T15 Torx Bit and we're going to pull the four screws out along the edge. Now there is a limited space here, so using a driver like this, probably give yourself a little bit more room rather than using a socket.Once you have all those bolts removed, you want to hold your wheel well liner back, just kind of folded behind the tire so it's out of the way and we can get access behind this area right here. If we look at the two sections of where our lower bumper meets the middle section and we look inside, there's actually a bolt that's going to be holding this trim piece in place. So you want to grab a seven millimeter socket and we'll pull that bolt out. It's a little bit of a tight fit, but we should have enough room to get a small ratchet in there and loosen it up and still have room to clear the tire.And once you have that bolt removed, that's going to allow us to separate this trim ring around the wheel well from the rest of the fascia. You kind of want to grab the bottom of the fascia here and kind of push down and towards the inside while you're pulling this up and out at the same time. There's a small clip here at the bottom, we need to get that loosened up before we really pull too far outward, but once you have it loose, then it's just going to be clips holding it against the body. So we want to work our way towards the top until we can at least get access to right here. Now you will probably want to go a little bit past there, but before you really start pulling you kind of want to work your way so those clips don't break. They may be a little bit tight but we don't want them to break so you might want to look behind there, see if you can see where the clip is and potentially get a trim panel tool to pop the clip out so it doesn't break.There is one clip that's going to be right past the bolt we need to remove. So if we can get that one undone, we should have enough room here to get a seven millimeter socket and ratchet in there, and then we'll pull that bolt out. Now that we have all this side loosened up, we're going to move to the other side and repeat that entire process.Now we can move to the center bottom section of our fascia here. You'll notice that we're going to have this little trap door, just has two turn knobs on it. We'll turn those counter-clockwise, they'll loosen it up and grab that little recess section in the panel, start working it loose. We're going to set this aside where it won't get damaged.Now if we move just in and towards the front a little bit, we'll find these metal support tabs that our fascia's attached to. When you remove these bolts, we'll have one on each side, so I'll grab a T15 Torx Bit and pull both of those bolts out.At this point we can get ready to remove our fascia. Now I definitely suggest getting an extra set of hands, not that it's real heavy, but it is rather large and we don't want to cause any damage. So we're going to move that trim piece out of the way to where you can get your hand behind where the fascia meets the fender here. We're going to just start working our way pulling outward, releasing the clips along the edge. Now typically once we get to about the tail light area, if we grab underneath and we kind of pull outward, it should release these clips along the center and along the edge working your way towards the middle.Before you pull the fascia too far away, there is a connector over on the driver's side that we're going to have to disconnect. We don't want to pull too hard on those wires. So we're going to pull that red tab away. There's a black tab right here, we're going to push and squeeze, and we can separate the two connectors. We'll set our fascia aside where it won't get damaged.With the fascia removed, we're going to get ready to remove the actual bumper beam itself. But if you look at where it bolts up, you'll notice that our exhaust hangers also use the same mounting points, so we want to make sure that we support our exhaust before we pull those bolts out. So I'm just going to use a cam strap here, just going to find a solid point to hook it onto the frame, it's not going to be moving around and then cinch the strap up so it'll gives a support on the bottom of the exhaust so it doesn't hang down too far.Then you want to grab a 15 millimeter socket and we'll remove the two nuts on top and the two bolts on the bottom from each side. You want to make sure you hold onto the nuts because we are going to reuse these but the bolts, we can set aside.And then we can lift up on our bumper beam. May have to move the hangers out of the way just a bit. Pull the bumper beam off and we'll set it aside because this is not going to get re-installed.So now we can grab our hitch. You'll notice that this has got two little plates that are actually going to go into the frame hole pockets here. So we're going to feed those in. And then the top hole should line up with the studs. Just want to loosely get it in place and it's not a bad idea to get at least one nut on each side just so the hitch will hold itself up and we don't have to worry about it falling down.Now if we look up right above our muffler here, right up by the heat shield, we'll see that we have two holes in the bottom of the frame here. Well our hitch actually has that plate that goes through and that's going to have holes that go through it, so we want to put a couple of pieces of hardware down here to get everything secure. You want to grab your pull wire, take the coiled end, we're going to feed it up through the frame, have it come through the hitch, and then we want to feed it towards the back so it can come out the large access hole on the hitch. Now it maybe a little difficult to get your finger and grab that wire, but the main goal here is to have that coil then stick out, but we still want the tail sticking out the bottom of the frame. You don't want that piece to go all the way through.Then we're going to grab a square hole spacer block, we'll slide it over our coiled wire, push it into the inside of the frame. Then we're going to take one of our carriage bolts, thread it onto the end of the wire, push that back into the frame as well.Then we want to grab our pull wire and give it a pull. May have to kind of shake a little bit, but you want that bolt to come through and to be sticking out the bottom of the frame. I'll let you know that there's not a whole lot of room there- inaudible 00:12:53. Rob: So the bolt's not going to be sticking out a whole lot, but you do want to make sure that it's coming through and you leave the pull wire inaudible 00:13:01 half, then we won't have to worry about pushing the bolt back in. We're going to repeat that process for the rear mounting hole and the other side.I'm going to go ahead and tighten up the two nuts on each side of our hitch here, once you have all your bolts in place. That'll get the hitch to seat properly and the bolts should come down a little bit more, giving us some more room.Since the bolts coming from the bottom of the frame here, we want to put our hardware in place before we put the exhaust back up. We're going to remove our pull wires. We'll grab a conical tooth washer, there's little teeth on there, we're going to make sure those are facing up towards the frame. So slide that over our bolt and we're going to be real careful not to push it back into the frame rail. And then I kind of like to hold it with my thumb pushing to the sides so it'll trap the bolt. We'll take a hex nut, want to get it at least started by hand, so we know it won't get pushed back into the frame and everything's nice and secure. Now this is going to be the same combination of hardware for each one of the bolts coming out of the bottom, so we'll get those in place. Once your bolts are in place, we'll grab a three quarter inch socket and we'll tighten up the ones on the bottom.Again, since our bolts are coming from the bottom of the frame and our muffler is going to be really close, I'm going to go ahead and torque these down to the specified amount in the instructions now and then we'll get the rest of our hardware in place and tighten and torque those down. And we're going to repeat that process for all the bolts on the bottom of the frame.And we can get ready to raise our exhaust back up and bolt it back in place. However, we're going to be using new bolts from our kit because our hitch is taking up a little bit more space and you need just a little bit longer of a bolt. So grab the new bolt and the small conical tooth washers out of our kit. Again, the teeth are going to be facing towards the hitch. Slide our bolt through the exhaust hanger bracket. Then we want to at least just get it started by hand a couple threads and we'll work on getting the other bolts in place and tighten them all down.Now that our exhaust is back up, we want to grab a 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench and we're going to torque the hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. And we're going to go back and repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.Then we're going to remove the exhaust hangers since it's going to support itself now and we can start working on putting the fascia back in place. Now there's no cutting involved to get it back in, so we're just going to reverse the process when we took it off before. And when you put your fascia back in, don't forget to plug that connector back in and lock that locking tab. We hear that audible click, I'm going to slide that red lever down so it locks it in place. You just want to get pretty close to lining everything up. I like to get the center locked in first so I know it's in the correct position, and then just kind of work my way across getting all those clips to inaudible 00:16:46. And just to make sure our fascia's not going to come loose, I'm going to get at least one screw in on each side. Then we need to start working on putting all the fasteners back in place.And whenever we're not towing, we do have the option of putting that trap door back. It'll fit right over our hitch. So all you got to do is line it back up, push those turn knobs in, and we have a really clean look on the back of our Traverse and nobody even knows we have a hitch.But that'll finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Chevy Traverse.


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