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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon


Today on our 2019 Subaru Outback wagon we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class 3 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 75673. So here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. The crosstube is going to sit right below our bumper, but the receiver tube is the main thing we're going to see. It is a Class 3 hitch, which means it's going to give us that 2" by 2" receiver tube opening. It's going to have a lot of different options for accessories that we can mount up.The way we're going to mount any of those accessories is the hitch pin hole here on the side. It is going to accept a standard 5/8 pin and clip.

These are sold separately, and you can find here at etrailer.com.Now that secondary hole towards the back of the receiver tube opening, that's going to be exclusively for the j-pin stabilization device. This is going to work like a normal hitch pin, but then this hook is going to come in and apply pressure to the accessories so it's not going to rattle around or make any noise when we're driving down the road. Now the nice thing about this is that this is also a locking device. You can find these here at etrailer.com as well. Our safety chain connection points are going to be a plate welded in the bottom.

As you can see, we'll have plenty of room to get most size hooks on and off. The slight offset from the hitch pin means we're going to have less chance of them interfering with the pin and clip.As far as weight capacity goes, our hitch is going to have a 600 pound tongue weight, which is going to be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube. Going to be great for some of those larger cargo carriers or the large bike racks. Now as far as the towing capability, it's going to have a 4,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull, including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. Now with all those numbers in mind, you should always double check your Subaru's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended towing weight.Like to give you a few measurements.

That's going to help you whenever you're looking for accessories for your new hitch. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is going to be pretty close to 5". That measurement's going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have enough clearance and that they're not going to come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is going to be 15-1/4". Now that measurement's going to come in handy when you're looking at a ball mount to match up to your trailer to find the appropriate rise or drop.

Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over our some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we're going to need to lower our exhaust down. But before you do, you want to make sure that it's supported so it's not going to cause any damage. I'm going to take a strap and I'm going to hook it onto a solid point. Make sure that it's going to be underneath the exhaust here so when we lower it down, it'll catch it and won't let it come down too far.On each one of our mufflers we're going to have a rubber isolator attached to a hanger that we're going to have to remove. To make it a little bit easier, I'm going to take some spray lubricant, going to spray down the hanger. Then I'll take a pry bar and just going to pry against the hanger until I can slide the isolator off just like that. We'll do that for the other side as well.Now if we move to the outside of the muffler towards the front of our vehicle, we're going to have another hanger we can spray down and slide that rubber isolator off. You want to make sure you remove both isolators from each muffler. Then if we move forward just right in front of the rear axle here, we'll have another isolator that we can remove to give us the slack we need. You want to be extremely careful because, once you do remove this one, the exhaust is going to come down a little bit. Just want to make sure the support strap is still there holding it in place. I'm going to slowly loosen the strap up so we get a little bit more room above the mufflers so we can access the frame and the heat shields on top.Now right above each one of our mufflers we'll have this heat shield. They're going to be held in by four bolts. You can grab a 10mm socket and pull those out. We'll pull the heat shield out, and we're going to hold onto the heat shield and the hardware for later installation.Underneath those heat shields we'll have these two rubber plastic type plugs in the frame. Just take a trim panel tool or a flat head screwdriver and we're going to pop those out. You want to pull both of these out on both sides of the frame rail. Now at the bottom of the frame we're going to have those two small threaded holes. That's going to be where our heat shield bolted in. If we find the forward on towards the front of our vehicle and we move just back a couple inches, maybe two inches or so, we're going to need to drill a hole so that we can have access to get our hardware in place. I'm going to start out using a small drill bit as my pilot hole, and then I'll come back and drill a hole out so I can fit my hardware in.I'm going to come back with a step bit and I'm going to drill a hole out so it's about 1-1/8". You want to periodically check to see if your hardware's going to fit. You can see that it's just a little bit too small for carriage bolt and a little bit too small for our block. We're just going to drill that out until we can easily slide our carriage bolt and block into the frame. With the access hole drilled out, again you want to make sure that your hardware fits all the way in, the carriage bolt as well as the block. Now it's never a good idea to leave exposed metal on your vehicle so I'm going to come back and use some spray paint to help prevent any kind of rust or corrosion from building up. But now that this side of the frame is done, we're going to go and repeat that on the other side as well.We're going to take our pull wire now and we're going to take the coiled end. Going to put a slight bend in it. Want to feed it into the hole towards the very back. I'm going to feed it towards the access hole. Now it's very important that you leave the tail end sticking out and have that coiled end coming out. I'll put a couple bends in it to make sure that it's not going to fall back in the frame.Now in our kit there's going to be two different spacer blocks. Right now we're going to be using the small one. We'll slide it over the coiled end of our wire and we'll push it into the frame. Then we'll grab one of our carriage bolts and we're going to thread it onto the end of the wire. We'll push the bolt, the block, and everything back into the frame. We'll pull on the pull wire till we get the bolt dropped through. We're going to do the same process for the other hole and the other side. Just the hole that's going towards the front, we're going to be using large spacer blocks. Again, just like this one, for the back we're going to be using the short ones.Now on each one of our heat shields we're going to have to trim this corner piece off. Basically, just along the seam and then cut that corner off. Now you could use a pair of tin snips, a rotary tool, or whatever you have. It's pretty thin metal. Going to be using a pair of tin snips. We'll just cut across and cut up along the seam here. We're going to do that for both heat shields, cutting out that corner section.Now if we look at our hitch, on the side plate here we'll have a large hole in the back and then a smaller hole. The large hole is where our hardware's going to drop down through. The smaller ones are going to be where our heat shield attaches at. But before we raise our hitch into position, we want to take a flat washer and we want to put it between the hitch and the frame. I'm going to place it right over the hole. Just going to take a little bit of tape and I'm going to tape it to it. That way it won't move too much but it'll hold it in place and I can still have my bolt go through. We'll do that for both sides.Now it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands. We're going to take our pull wires and we'll feed them down through the hitch. We'll lift it up into position. We'll line up the holes so the bolts come down through our hitch. We'll remove one of the pull wires and we're going to take a conical tooth washer. Want to make sure those teeth are facing towards the hitch. We're going to secure it with a hex nut. Sometimes it helps to hold the washer so the bolt won't spin and we get it started easier. But you want to make sure you get at least one in on each side so the hitch will support itself and we won't have to worry about it falling down.Once you have all your hardware loosely in place, you want to make sure that the holes in the bottom of the hitch line up with the weld nuts so we can put our heat shield back in place. Once everything is lined up, we'll come back with an 11/16 socket and snug up our hardware. Then we'll come back with a torque wrench and I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. You want to make sure you repeat that for all your remaining hardware. We'll take our heat shield and we'll put it back into position. We can start putting in the factory hardware. With everything torqued down, we can put our exhaust back into place. We'll slide the rubber isolator by the axle on first. That way it'll hold it up and we can get the rest of them in. Once the exhaust is all the way back up, we can remove the support strap and that'll finish up the installation. That'll finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class 3 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 75673, on our 2019 Subaru Outback wagon.


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