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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Ford Edge

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Ford Edge

Rob: Hey everybody. It's Rob 00:00:01 here at Today we're going to be taking a look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2019 Ford Edge. Now I know everybody wants to see what it looks like, go over some of the features, but if you stick around to the end of the video, we are going to show you how to get it installed. But I think our hitch actually has a really clean, good-looking appearance to it. It almost looks like it came from the factory like this.

And the main reason why, is because that cross tube is hidden behind the bumper, so we don't have a big bar hanging down. The only thing we're really going to see is that receiver tube sticking out. Now, the nice thing is, is it is a Class III, which means it's going to give us that two inch by two inch receiver-tube opening, and really open up the doors when it comes to the variety of options for accessories that we can mount on.Obviously everybody knows you could throw a ball mount in there to tow a trailer, but maybe we want to go to the park with some friends, take some bikes with this. Well, we can put a bike rack back there or possibly even maybe we want to take a road trip, we need more room on the inside. Well, a cargo carrier makes it really easy to move all that gear to the outside, make more room for passengers and pets.

But regardless of how you're going to use your hitch, all the accessories are going to mount to the hitch pin hole here on the side. Now, our hitch is going to accept the standard 5 inch pin and clip. Now these aren't going to come with the hitch, but you can find them here at I know a lot of people are wondering what that secondary hole towards the receiver tube is, and that's going to be exclusively for the J-Pin stabilization device. Now, the way this is going to work is we'll take the threaded end, that's going to go into the hitch pin hole and then we're going to apply a hex nut to it. And that's going to draw in that little secondary hook into the receiver tube and it'll apply pressure to our accessory, keeping it from rattling around.

Now, our J-Pin is also a locking device. So not only is it going to keep it quiet back here, but it's also going to keep it secure and deter would-be thieves. Now, again, this is going to be sold separately, but you can find it here at you do plan on doing some towing, your safety chain connection point is pretty important. We've got to hook them up so we can be safe and legal. Now we're going to have a plate style, actually welded on the side of the receiver tube, which is nice for some things, because we're not going to have to worry about any kind of interference from the pin and clip when we go to hook up our chains.

But as you can see, that flange is pretty thick, so if you have really small hooks, it may be a little bit difficult to get them hooked on. But, with what I consider most normal sized hooks, there's plenty of room. And even if you have those oversized hooks, we've still got a decent amount of room and the connection point is so far down that we really don't have to worry about our chains getting in contact or scratching the bottom of our Edge. Now, one question we get a lot about vehicles, especially ones we put a trailer hitch on, is if the hands-free lift gate works.Because let's face it, if we've got that option on our car, we want to use it. Well, it's still going to work with the hitch in place, we're just going to have to move to either side of the actual receiver tube. So you can see if I go ahead and put my foot there, it'll open up. We can still use it even if our hands are full, we can load up everything we need, get it out and not have to worry about the hitch interfering. Now, other than towing, weight capacity still plays a very important role whenever we're using our hitch. We want to make sure that it's up to the test that we put it to. And our hitch is going to have a 675 pound tongue weight, the maximum downward pressure at the end of the receiver tube. It's actually quite a bit. At 675 pounds we'll be able to really maximize how much we can put on those cargo carriers, even some of the really, really large ones, and easily be able to carry four, if not five, maybe even six bikes with us.At the same time, our hitch is going to have a 4,500 pound gross trailer weight reading. That's how much the hitch can pull, but what that number does include, the weight of the trailer and the load we have on it. Now, I know some of you have some larger trailers that may have weight distribution on it, and that's going to be a separate component as not another trailer, but our hitch is rated to use weight distribution. Now those ratings are going to stay the same, at 675 and 4,500, but it is nice to know that you can use weight distribution if you do have it on a trailer at your house.I'd like to give you a few measurements and these are going to help you whenever you're looking for accessories for your new hitch. In the center of the hitch pin hole, to the outermost edge of the bumper, through right about five and a half inches. Now that measurement's going to help you when you're looking at folding accessories, to make sure you have enough room to put them in the upright storage position, and not make contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, through right about 12 and a half inches. Now at that height, I would definitely recommend a bike rack or cargo carrier with a raised shank. And we would get a little bit more ground clearance out of it. But at the same time, that measurement is also going to help you when you're looking for a ball mount, so you can find the appropriate rise or drop to match up to your trailer.But now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's go through the installation process together, so you can have the confidence to do it at home. To begin our installation we'll want to come to the back of our Edge, and on each side, we're going to have a plastic panel at the very bottom of the bumper. Now we're going to need to pull these out. And if we look on the very edge, or the fascia, we're going to have a couple of bolts that are holding it in. So we're going to grab a five and a half millimeter socket and pull both of those out.There's going to be a couple more bolts that are holding it in. We come towards the inside, right where the tailpipe is. If we look up, we're going to have two 10 millimeter nuts that are holding it in as well. So grab a 10 millimeter socket and an extension. We'll pull both bolts out. You want to make sure you hold onto the hardware, but we can go ahead and grab our panel, pop it out, pull it down. And we can go ahead and set this panel aside and we're going to move to the other side and pull that panel out as well. Now, if we move to the center of our edge, we're going to have this plastic panel here, but it's actually holding a felt wire in between that and the top of the trunk pan. So we want to remove all the bolts along this bottom edge. And it's going to be that same five and a half millimeter socket.Then if we come right in the center of our edge, that is also going to have another stud on top of the nut holding it in. So grab that same 10 millimeter socket and pull that out. Then once you have all that hardware removed, we can gently pull out on the fascia and kind of work this panel down so we can pull it out. And this is not going to get re-installed. Now that the panels are out of the way, our hitch is going to be sitting right here behind the fascia, but this stud is going to be in the way. So you can either take a pair of pliers, try to break it, or I'm just going to take a rotary tool and just cut that stud off.Now we need to lower our exhaust, but we don't want to lower it down too far to where it will be damaged. So we want to put up some kind of support. Now I'm going to use a strap, but you can also use a Jack stand underneath, just something to not allow the exhaust to come down too far. We'll find a secure point somewhere on the vehicle, we going to tighten up the strap. So as we've loosened it up, it won't come down too far. But we'll follow our muffler out to the edge, where we have our tailpipe showing, right forward towards the front of the car. We're going to have a rubber isolator on each side, and that's how we're going to be lowering it. And the easiest way that I've found to get the rubber isolator off the hanger, I'm just going to spray some spray lubricant on there. Then we can take a pry bar and we're going to pry it against something so we get that isolator to slide off.Now we're going to have rubber isolator on each side of the muffler. So we want to move to the other side and loosen that one up as well. Once that's loosened, we can slowly loosen the strap. Now we have plenty of room to get everything in place. So we're on the driver's side frame rail, but it's going to be the same thing on the passenger side, but I want to go over the mounting locations. We're going to notice that we have a couple of holes in the bottom of the frame. The two round ones are going to be our two mounting holes. And then on this side of the frame, we're going to have two more holes. And those are also going to be two mounting locations. Now to help us get our hardware into the frame, we're going to use the oval hole on the bottom, or if you're having a little trouble using that one, you can also use the large oval hole towards the front of the vehicle. But we want to start by taking one of our pull wires. And I'm going to start at the furthest hole away from the access hole. We're going to take the coil then, we're going to feed it into the hole we want our hardware to come out. And the goal is to have the coil then come out of the oval hole. You want to make sure you have the tail and the coil then sticking out. We don't want it to come all the way through the frame.Then we'll grab a square hole spacer block. We're going to slide it over the end of our cold wire, push it onto the frame. Then we'll take one of our carriage bolts, thread it onto the end of the wire. Then again, push the bolt into the frame and we're going to pull on it until it comes down through the block. Now we're going to repeat that process for the other three mounting locations and all the ones on the other side of the frame. Once you have all your hardware in, what I like to do is leave the pull wires attached and then for the bolts on the side, I'm just going to push them inside the frame so that the hitch can actually go up and sit flat against them. I definitely recommend getting an extra set of hands for this part, but we want to lift our hitch over the exhaust, we're going to take our pull wires, make sure we drop them down in the corresponding holes in the hitch. You're going to have two smaller holes and a large hole. The mounting locations are going to be the smaller holes. So you want to make sure you use those and then we'll take our side pull wires, make sure you have them in the correct spot and kind of lift up and guide all those wires where they need to go.And you just want to make sure you get the kit lined up. And pull on the pull wires until we can get them to come through. Once you get the side ones through it should hold itself up. But each one of the bolts, you're going to get a little bit different combination of hardware. So the furthest rear one, on the bottom here, we're going to remove the pull wire and it takes a split lock washer, we're going to go over the bolt. Now, typically the bolts kind of want to move a little bit. So if you push on that washer and take a hex nut, we can loosely get it started. It makes it a little bit easier. It helps keep that bolt from moving around.And then the rest of the hardware, all three other locations and the other ones on the other side are going to get a conical tooth washer. Those old teeth on there, you want to make sure they're facing up towards your hitch. Again, use that to trap the bolt and get the nuts started. So again, the furthest rear bottom hole is going to get a lock washer and a nut, and all the other ones are going to get a conical tooth washer and a hex nut. Then we'll want to grab an 11/16 socket and snug up all of our hardware.And you want to make sure you come back with a torque wrench. We're going to torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. You do want to make sure you go back and repeat that for all of your remaining hardware. With the hitch torqued down, we can raise our exhaust. We're going to lift it up slightly and then tighten up that strap so I don't have to hold it. But then we can take some spray lubricant. I'm going spray it on the isolator and the hanger. It just makes it a little bit easier to slide back in place, but push the muffler to one side, get the isolator lined up and then you push it back in. Move to the other side and get the other one in place as well. We're going to take our panel and line it back on those studs and start replacing all the hardware. Once you had that last bolt in and all your panels are back in place, that'll finish up your look and your installation of the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2019 Ford Edge..

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