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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon

Shane: Hey everyone, Shane here with Today I have a 2020 Subaru Outback wagon, and I want to walk you through how to install the Draw-Tite Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver. When thinking about putting a hitch on our vehicle, we need to think about what we're going to be using the hitch for. And Class III hitches is going to allow you a lot of different opportunities for either pulling a trailer, cargo carrier, bike rack, putting different ball mounts on, put a cargo carrier on there. We can get stuff out of the vehicle, put it on the cargo carrier, to make more room for our passengers. Bike rack, we're not going to try to load the bikes inside the car or on top of the roof, we'll be able to put them on the bike rack and make it a lot more easier, accessible for you to get your bikes off.This is what our hitch is going to look like once it's installed, you can see the receiver tube is nice and tucked up pretty far up behind the fascia.

So it maintains a really nice clean look on the back of the vehicle. The cross tube is visible, but unless you're down, you're really not going to see it. Because it's tucked about really nice up against that pan where your spare tire is. It's going to be a Class III, two inch by two inch receiver tube opening. So it's going to give us a lot of different options for different hitch mount accessories.You're going to notice there's two holes here.

This hole right here is going to be for our hitch pin. So take a standard five, eights hitch pin, hitch pin and clip does not come with this hitch, however they can be found here at hole here is for a J-Pin stabilization device, and this is something that I really like about Draw-Tite. So J-Pin also does not come with it, but what it does is it actually is going to replace your actual pin and it slides in, and it has a hook, that hooks in here and it pushes your hitch mount accessory over to one side tight, so it takes any movement out of it. So that's a really nice feature. You notice it's also going to have plate style safety chain loops very, very large openings.

So if you have a trailer that has some bigger hooks on it, you can see it's going to accommodate them very well. It's going to be a steel construction, nice black powder coat finish. So it's really going to help resist rust and corrosion.Now I'm going to give you a few weight capacities that help you when deciding on any of those hitch mount accessories, we have a 675 pound max tongue weight, which is a downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube. So if you're putting them bike rack on, cargo carrier, or even a trailer with a lot of tongue weight, you want to make sure you're not exceeding that downward pressure.We have a 4,500 pound gross trailer weight, which is going to be a trailer plus the load included. Keep in mind, if you're hauling a trailer, this hitch is not rated for a weight distribution.

As far as our measurements go, from the ground to the top inside part of our receiver tube is going to be 14 inches. That number, keep in mind for any hitch mount accessories that may hang down a little bit, may require a little bit more ground clearance. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost part of the bumper is going to be about six inches. That number is important for any of your hitch mount accessories, like your bike racks and cargo carriers that may fold up against your vehicle. You want to make sure they're not going to make contact.With all that being said, let's go ahead and walk through how to get it installed. To start our installation, we're going to take a strap, we're going to hang it anywhere, really on our axle. We want to make sure we're going underneath our exhaust pipe and tighten it like that. And when it comes to our exhaust, we're going to have two isolators, we're going to have one here, one on the backside and then in front of our axle, we're going to have a third one. We need to remove those and allow our exhaust to rest down a little bit or hang.So what I'm doing is I'm going to spray the hanger with some soapy water. You can use a lubricant, if you have one. I find soapy water works pretty well. Now we can just take a pry bar and as we have a hook here, it's going under our isolator. What we're going to do, if we're going to take a pry bar and we're going to use that as a wedge and we're going to pry our hanger off here. Going to do the same thing with this one, and then our third one's going to be right here in front of the axle, we're going to do the same thing with that one.This one, you wedge against the pipe just like that, then we're going to remove our heat shield, we'll use a 10 millimeter socket to remove the four bolts. Directions are going to tell you from this hole, back two and three quarter inches, and then use a hole saw bit to open this up, most people aren't going to have a hole saw bit. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to go from this hole to this edge, come up over and then out, I'm going to cut this whole section out.I'm just going to use some metal sheers. The reason we have to trim, because we need to get access to this hole here. We're going to be using this hole and this rear most hole here. Once you get your heat shield trimmed, where you have access to it, you can re-install your hardware and your heat shield. Now from here on out, everything's going to be the same on the opposite side of the vehicle. We're going to remove this plug, this plug, and this one. Use a flathead screwdriver and we'll just pry the plug out.This hole here is going to be our access hole to get our hardware inside the frame rail to these two, we're going to start this rear most hole. You're going to have a pull wire. You're going to take the spring end, we're going to feed it in this hole. We're going to come out in this hole. You want to make sure that you don't put it in so far that the end of your wire goes up into the hole. So what I like to do is right at the end, put a little bend in it like this, that way it'll catch on the frame rail. We'll slide this in.You may have to put your finger up in there. You notice there's a lip, help that spring over the top of that. Now you're going to have a couple of different spacial blocks. You're going to take the skinniest one. We're going to put it on the spring and then push it up into the hole. You're going to take the carriage bolt, thread it onto the spring end of the wire, push it up in the hole. We're going to pull it out like this. We're going to repeat that same process for this one, and the same thing on the other side of the vehicle.You're going to have a washer like this. We're going to take it and set it over this hole on this larger plate, we're going to tape it on there. Take a piece of tape, stick it right to your hitch, just like this. I'm going to cut the center out. You going to repeat that on the other side of the hitch. And we'll get an extra set of hands. We're going to raise our hitch into place. We're going to take our pull wires, feed them through the corresponding holes in the hitch. And you go over the top of our exhaust, to get the hardware to pass down. What we're going to do here, we're going to pull off one of our wires. And for now we're just going to put a nut on each side. This is going to hold our hitch up while we install our remaining part.So now we have a nut on each side, hitch is supporting itself. We're going to pull off our second wire. So what we going to do is we're going to put a conical tooth washer on, teeth facing towards the hitch. Then we'll add on a nut. Once we get that on, we can come back to this one, remove this nut, put our washer on, and then reinstall the nut. Once we get one side down, we repeat the process on the other. Then we'll come back with a 11, 16 socket. We're going to tighten up our inaudible 00:09:30.Then we'll come back with a torque wrench and torque all our hardware to the specifications listed in the instructions. Once you've got all your hardware torqued, reinstall your exhaust in reverse order from the way you took it off and you're ready to go. It's going to do it if we look at, and installation on the Draw-Tite Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Subaru Outback wagon..

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Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
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Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Chris R
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Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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