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etrailer Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way RV Upgrade Kit Installation - 2020 Kia Telluride

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How to Install the etrailer Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way RV Upgrade Kit on a 2020 Kia Telluride


Rob: Hey everybody, Rob here at etrailer.com. Today, we're going to be taking a look at the ETBC7L kit, which is going to give you a seven way and a four way on the back of your Kia Telluride. Now, here we have a 2020 and we already have our ETBC7L installed. Again, this is going to provide us a seven way with a 12 volt power source, along with all the light functions so we can tow our trailer safely down the road. Not only is it going to give us that seven way, but we're also going to be able to keep or use the four way as well. That way if you have multiple different trailers in your family that you tow, or if you just tow a few different trailers along the way, we'll have a seven way and a four way since those are both the two most common trailer connectors out there.Now what's going to make this kit different than other seven way installation kits, is this kit is going to give us all the sliding functions and a 12 volt power source.

However, it's not going to give us a brake output signal because this is designed for an alternative style brake control. Actually have one right here, the Curt Echo. This is going to plug directly into the seven way and then our trailer's going to plug in there, but we need a 12 volt power source to power it up. It definitely cuts down on the installation. A brake controller like this is going to be a lot easier to install because we're not going to have to worry about finding the brake signal on the inside or drilling any holes in our dash to mount a traditional style brake controller.But having that 12 volt power source at the back is not only good for brake controllers like the Curt Echo or the RF Prodigy from Tkeonsha, it's also going to be great if you have an electric jack, because obviously it's an electric jack so we need power to it.

Now that we have our seven way hooked up, you can see we're able to raise and lower our jack so we can easily hook up to our trailer.Now we're inside of our Kia and again, I like the ETBC7L because again, it makes it possible to use alternative style brake controllers that mount either on the trailer or use power from the seven way with no tapping in on the dash. Because if we start looking at our dash here, there's not a whole lot of spots to mount a traditional style brake controller. Usually it's a box and they usually go on the lower dash. But as you can see, I'm not even that tall and if I put a brake controller here, there's a good chance that I'd be hitting it with my knee all the time when I'm getting in and out. Not to mention, we have our ignition button right here and the electronics in our Kia are getting more and more sophisticated.So if we we're to put in a traditional style brake controller, we'd have to find the brake circuit, tap into that.

Using the ETBC7L is going to prevent having to cut any factory wires at all. We simply just mount the seven way on the back, run a wire up to the battery with a breaker in line so we can have protection for it. Here our customer is actually using the Prodigy RF. This mounts on the trailer and then we have a remote mount that plugs into a cigarette lighter so we can get our 12 volt power source and we can see everything that's going on here. Now again, this can be unplugged, tossed in the glove box and not have to worry about permanently mounting anything or drilling any holes.Now on our Kia, we already had the factory four way.

It was actually mounted inside this plastic box here. We did have a little bit of a challenge finding a way to mount our seven way and four way. But I think this is probably the cleanest way you could do it without having to cut too much of the bumper. I cut just a little bit right above the door on the seven way so that we could fully open it and make sure that it's functioning and we could actually use it. Then to mount the four way, I mounted it to the bottom of the plastic using a zip tie, just drilling a few holes. That way we have easy access to it, to the four way and the seven way.Now as far as the installation goes, it is very straightforward. Simply going to plug our existing four pole trailer connector into the back of our ETBC7L and then again, we're going to run a power wire with a breaker in line up to the battery. That's pretty straightforward, but mounting the seven way and giving it a clean look can be a little difficult. Again, because we had this factory connector and this box right here, but we'll make sure we show you exactly how we got everything hooked up so you can have the confidence to do it at home and keep your Kia having that factory clean look as well.To begin our installation, we want to come to the back of our Kia, and I do want to mention, in order to get our seven way installed, you will need a working four pole flat trailer connector. Now here we have the factory one, it will work if you have an aftermarket one or the factory one. But you can see it does already have a bracket and that's already welded to the hitch, but this outer bracket is bolted in place. Now if we grab our seven way connector out of our kit, we can see that it'll fit real nicely inside, but I already tested and we're not able to fit it through the plastic here. Well, we still want that clean look and I really don't want to cut any of this. What I'm going to do is I'm going to remove just this lower black plastic piece so we can get behind it and access the bracket.We'll come to the very corner of that black plastic piece. We're going to find a pushpin fastener on each side. There's little notches on there and want to take a flat blade screwdriver, we're going to pop out the center section and that will take the tension off, then come underneath the base and pull the whole push pin out. We'll move over to the other side, pull the other one out. Then if we move to the center, right on either side of the receiver tube, if you look in between the safety chain loops, we have a couple more fasteners we need to pull out. Now the center of those have Phillips heads so we'll grab a Phillips screwdriver.Now these are plastic pushpin type fasteners and we want to unscrew this, but you want to have really light pressure. You don't want to push up on it because it'll actually push it back into place. Just want to loosely unscrew it and once it gets towards the bottom should be able to grab that outer piece, work it around a little bit and then the rest of the push button will come out. We'll take out the other one. Then we want to move behind the plastic right around the edges of where that black plastic meets the paint. Right where that paint meets the black plastic, there's the back of the bracket here. We'll see these little tabs that are holding it in place. Just want to pull downward, see that little ledge right here by the push pin and this black tab We want to push towards the outside of the vehicle while we're pulling down. It is a little stiff, you just want to work that tab until we can get it to loosen up.Once you get the edges loose, we can start working our way towards the center and we're just going to have a couple more of these tabs. Since the hitch is in the way, I will let you know it's a little tight, but we can just flex that plastic down. Once we get all the push pins out, we just want to pull straight out on that panel. Now you can see it gives us plenty of room to work with right here where our four pole and our bracket is.Now on the back of the bracket, we're going to have four nuts that are holding it in place. I'm going to grab a 10 millimeter socket and pull those out. On the front just has some carriage bolts, we'll go ahead and pull those out as well. Once we have all the hardware loose, going to take the dust cover off the four pole and that outer bracket will come off. Slide that lower bracket out of the way. Just want to slide the four pole out the side. It's probably going to be a pretty snug fit, but again, just slide it out and we can actually get rid of both of these brackets and hardware because we're not going to reuse them.Behind there we actually have a seven way bracket. The slotted holes will be extremely easy, so we can mount up our new seven way. There's a notch right there so we'll just slide our wiring through, line up our seven way and we'll grab the hardware from our kit and we can start mounting it up. We'll take our hardware, one of the new screws, pass it all the way through the seven way and the bracket. Then on the backside, we'll follow it up with a flat washer, then a split lock washer and finally, we'll secure it down with a hex nut. It's going to be the same combination for all four holes. We'll just get these loosely in place and then we can come back and tighten them all the way down. They'll take a Phillips screwdriver, tighten up the screws and hold the nut on the backside with a three eighths wrench. It doesn't need to be extremely tight, but we do want to make it to where it is snug, to where the vibrations aren't going to work that screw out and the seven way is nice and snug on there.Now before we put that plastic panel back in place, I do want to make a few connections. If we follow the back of our seven way where we have all the bundles of wires coming out, we'll find a four pole and this is going to be an inverted four pole so you know it's going to be the right one. This is going to plug directly into the factory four pole. You want to make sure you have a good, solid connection. Then I always like to take some electrical tape and I'm going to wrap the entire connector up and you can always cut the dust covers off or just pull them off because this should stay connected all the time and we don't really need these. This'll help keep it connected and hopefully keep any moisture or debris from getting inside the connectors. Just wrap it up with some tape. We can come back and cut those boots and dust covers off.Then we can take that panel, move your wires out of the way. You do want to slide it over the receiver tube, make sure that cover goes around the wiring. Again, this is pretty tight here, but we should be able to flex the plastic enough to where we can get it back in place. May even have to reach behind, push on the silver plastic a little bit. Then we just put the fasteners back in making sure they're all back in the original spot. With these pushpins, we're going to leave the base of it out and the center still sticking out, push the base in, make sure all the legs are in, push it in and lock it down. The same thing for the screw type push pins, we're going to push the base in first, making sure that center section is still sticking out. You may be able to push it in by hand, but if not, you want to grab that Phillips screwdriver and screw it back in place.Now we bring our attention to the back of our seven way now that it's mounted, we still have a few wires sticking off the back. We want to start with our white wire, it has a ring terminal attached. This is our ground wire so we need to find a nice, solid point of metal that we can attach it to. I'm actually going to bring it over to the side on the driver's side frame rail right behind the bumper here. Because you can see we have several pieces of metal so it'll be a nice, solid connection point. I do want to mention that we have some wiring here. If it is attached anywhere, you want to pull it out of the way because we don't want to damage anything when we drill through. It's not a bad idea to run your hand back here, double check there's nothing else, any sensors or anything else that could potentially get damaged. We're going to take this self-tapping screw, I'm going to get the hole started first and then we'll put our ring terminal in place.Got the hole started, take the screw out, slide my ring terminal over and secure the screw down. Now I will let you know, if it starts to bottom out like that and it's getting a little tight, I don't suggest just keep cramming it in. You want to work it back out, go in so it can cut the threads that it needs to. As you can see, the self-tapping screw, the head broke off of it. Instead of trying to dig that out and go in the same spot and spend a lot of time on that, I ended up cutting my ground wire and I extended it out with some more white wire. I put a new ring terminal on and then just went to the bottom of the frame over here. Now the ring terminal and the butt connector are not going to come in your kit, but that's why I always suggest just having a few butt connectors and ring terminals on hand in case something like this happens. Because it really is very easy to break these screws, especially when you're going into a few pieces of metal.When you do get your ground in place, the important thing is that the ring terminal doesn't move, it's a solid connection and you don't strip out the screw. Just going to take a little bit of electrical tape and I'm going to tape up that butt connector, help protect it a little bit better and hopefully prevent any corrosion from getting inside.Now we're going to bring our attention to the black wire. This wire needs to get the length of wire that comes in your kit attached to it, then we're going to run it to the positive post on the battery. Going to go ahead and strip back the end of the length of wire, put it inside the black wire's butt connector, then we'll crimp it in place. Give it a quick tug, know that it's secure. Now again, I'm going to go ahead and wrap this connection up with some electrical tape and I'm actually going to cap these off as well with some tape because we're not going to be using the blue wire. That's going to be our brake output signal and the yellow wire is going to be our reverse light signal. In our application, we're not using either of these so we're just going to tape them up and tie it up with the existing wiring so it's nice and out of the way.Now we can bring our attention to that black wire again. Again, this is going to have to go up to the positive post on the battery so we want to run it along the bottom, trying to stay away from any major heat sources like the exhaust or any moving parts or really just about anything that'll damage the wire. Now everybody's going to take a different path to get there. I'm going to go ahead and route my wire and then I'll show you the path that I took. But one thing I do want to mention, I always like leaving everything extremely loose. I'll leave all my wires loose back here and then once we have everything hooked up and we know it's working, then I'll take some time to clean everything up because might as well wait until the end, because if there is a problem, it's a lot easier to fix with everything exposed.I started running my power wire over to the driver's side, over behind this panel. I came over, went over the rear sub frame and the rear axle here. Make sure to go over all these components so it doesn't get caught. Then I started running it towards the outside. I actually went underneath this panel here, brought my wire over. Then to get it through the rest of the way, I just took a 10 millimeter socket and I loosened up the bolts along the edge of this panel, making sure that wire's still underneath so it's nice and protected. Then I had my wire dropout right here.Now I went ahead and ran an air line tube from the top of the engine bay down, and I attached it with some electrical tape. Now right here, you can see that we have a lot of lines here and I actually used that to my advantage to go behind them because our steering shaft, our drive shaft and other few components are over here that we want to stay as far away as possible. So I ran my air line tube behind all these so it could get as close to the firewall as possible. Now we can move up to the top of the engine bay and pull all the slack up so we can get our wire to the top.I ran my pole wire down right by the brake reservoir here. Again, there's some lines coming right out the bottom so I used that to my advantage. Now we'll just pull all the slack up. Now, it's not a bad idea to check underneath, make sure there's not a lot of wire. But once we have it up here, what I like to do is find some existing wiring. I'm going to tie it off using a zip tie, that way in case it does ever come loose, it won't drop back down and cause an issue.We need to find a spot that we want to mount our breaker. Now typically, you'll mount it somewhere that's pretty accessible, pretty close to the battery. Our battery is right here on the driver's side. However, if we look on the fender here, these spots are hard to reach and I don't know if I really like the idea of putting the breaker with the terminals so close because when the hood closes, I don't really know how far it goes down. As we can see, it sticks out on the hood so I'm actually going to mount our breaker down here, down by the battery.But before we mount it, I want to point out that if we look at the terminals, there's going to be a silver one and a copper colored one. The silver one is going to be labeled AUX for auxiliary, that needs to go back towards the seven way. The label on the copper post is going to say BAT for battery and that one is going to go to the battery. I'm going to take the self-tapping screws from our kit and a quarter inch nut driver and I'm going to drive it right into the bottom of the battery tray. Get one started, then we can reposition the breaker to where it's going to sit even and we can still have access to it, then we'll get the other one in place.You want to route your wire over to the breaker, estimate about how much you need, then we can cut the excess off. You do want to hold onto the excess, but we'll strip back the end that we just cut. We want to grab one of the small ring terminals out of our kit, slide it over the end, then we'll crimp it in place. We're going to remove the nut off the silver post. Now you want to be careful because these are pretty easy to drop. You want to make sure you have a good hold of it when you remove it. Slide our ring terminal over the stud and we'll loosely reinstall the nut.Now we want to take the length of wire that we just cut off. I'm going to strip back one end and grab another one of our small ring terminals, crimp it in place. This one is going to go onto the copper post. We'll do the same thing, just loosen that nut off, slide the ring terminal over and then reinstall it. Now this end needs to go to the positive post on the battery so depending on how you routed or how much wire you have, you can either go behind the battery, it's just going underneath the air intake tube and bring it over. You can see we've got plenty of slack. We can always tuck it down out of the way. I'm going to go ahead and strip back the end of our wire. Take the large ring terminal this time, slide it over our wire and crimp it down.We've got thIS tab right here, we need to push in on that tab, flip the cover open. Now we just need to grab a socket so that we can remove the nut from the stud and we can put our ring terminal in place. This back one here, just use a 10 millimeter socket, remove the nut. Slide the ring terminal over and reinstall it.Now in order to close the cover, we may have to put a small notch so it doesn't crush the wire. Just take a pair of cutters, just going to cut right about where the wire is. May have to move over just a little bit, make another cut. Then you just take that piece of plastic and we'll just bend it out of the way. Just cut the tail off and it'll fit right over the wire so we can get the cover closed.Now, since those ring terminals are just loosely on there, I want to come back with a three eighth socket. If you use an extension it'll probably help out to reach. We're just going to make sure they're nice and snug. You don't need to crank on them, but we don't want them to be loose either.Now if we come back to our seven way here, where we still have our wires loose, you can see that as I go to open the lid, I probably could force it to open up, but it's hitting the plastic right there. I'm actually going to go ahead and pull this panel back down and trim out just a little bit so we have room for that lid to swing open. I trimmed just a little bit, as you can see right here. Now we can get our lid open, but as you see, it is going to hit the plastic just a little bit, but I'd really rather not cut out a big chunk here just so the lid can go over without touching. We can still get it open, it flexes a little bit, but it's not going to hurt the plastic. Again, I'd rather not cut any more than I have to.Now the next thing we need to address, is how we're going to mount our four pole because our kit is going to give us a seven way and a four way so we can use both of them. Now you can just use the dust cover, leave it loose and tie it to the hitch here, but I would like to give it as clean a look as I can. I'm thinking I'm actually going to mount mine down here at the bottom of this plastic cover. We've got plenty of room inside of here. How I'm going to mount this is I'm going to use my four pole as a template and then I'm going to take a drill and I'm going to mark on the outside. Make a mark there, make a mark there and now I'm going to drill those holes out and then use a zip tie to secure it to the bottom.I'm going to run my zip tie up through the hole. Then we'll have it come back down through the other hole, make sure I go around the four pole connector, try to keep it on that rubber piece as much as possible. Then we'll just tighten it up. May have to shift the zip tire around depending on how big of a drill bit you used. Then cut the tail off and then to hide some of these colored wires, you can either use some electrical tape or you can use some wire inaudible 00:25:14 to clean up the look. While we're at it, I'll go ahead and tie the existing wires here up behind the bumper so it cleans it up and they're nice and secure.Now that everything's mounted up, I'm going to take my seven pole tester so we can test if we have our 12 volt circuit back here, as well as all of our lights. Open up the lid, make sure it's in all the way. There is a small tab on the door of the seven way so you will need to lift it up enough so you can slide it in and it can go past that. Now that I have that tester plugged in, we can see that the 12 volt lit up, so we are getting 12 volts back at the seven way. But I'll go ahead and run through the lights so we can verify that those are working as well. With my headlights on, we can see the tail light function is working, the left turn signal, the right turn signal, our brakes, and our brakes and both turn signals. Now that we know that everything's working, we're ready to hook up and hit the road.


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