bing tracking image Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Chrysler Pacifica

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How to Install the Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica

Ryan: How's it going Ryan here at Today on our 2018 Chrysler Pacifica, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the c.lass three trailer hitch receiver. Now even though this hitch is more visible than some of the others out there, it does sit behind the bumper nicely and it almost looks like it belongs. It doesn't look like it's out of place and there is an upside to the visibility, and that's ease to use. Everything is going to be in the open and really easy to get things connected or disconnected. And one of the things that kind of separates this one from some of the others is it's finish.

It's going to have a carbide matte black powder coat finish. So it's going to stand up really well to the elements. It's going to be very scratch resistant and is just going to stay looking good for a long time.I also noticed too that we have about the perfect amount of clearance. And what I mean by that is the end of our receiver tube here isn't going to sit so far back that it doesn't give us a whole lot of clearance and it makes it a little quicker to use. And it doesn't stick so far out past the bumper that it's going to almost look funny.

This sits right behind the bumper going to give us plenty of room and space to use those folding accessories.Since this is a class three hitch, it's going to have that two inch by two inch opening. That's going to allow us to use pretty much any accessory available today. It's also going to have a reinforced collar for extra strength. The pin hole is going to be the standard 5/8" size. Now keep in mind it does not come included with the pin and clip, but if you need one you can find it here at

Now these safety chain openings are a little small and they are tucked a little further back, but that ensures us that we're not going to have any interference with our pin and clip and they'll work with just about any size hook.Many times the Pacifica owners are very family oriented and either have a lot of people or stuff inside of the van. Well help free up some space I'd recommend the Reese Explorer cargo carrier. It's one of the larger ones available and is a perfect fit with the Chrysler Pacifica.Now as far as the hitch's weight capacities go, they're gonna be some pretty impressive numbers. For the maximum gross tongue weight rating, it's going to be 400 pounds. That's going to be the amount of weight pushing down on our hitch.

So that'll be perfect for just about any bike rack and most heavy duty cargo carriers available. As far as the maximum gross trailer weight rating, it's going to be 4,000 pounds, going to be the amount of weight pulling on the hitch. And it's the weight of your trailer plus anything you might have on it. Now this can be used with the weight distribution system, which is a separate component. However, if you are using one of those, the weight capacities do increase. The maximum gross tongue weight rating goes up to 500 pounds and the maximum gross trailer weight rating goes up to 5,000 pounds. Now I do want to point out, you always want to check your owner's manual to make sure your van can pull that much weight.Now I'm going to give you a couple of measurements and you're going to use these to help figure out which hitch mounted accessories to get. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be about 13 inches. And you're going to use that to help figure out if you need to get a ball mount with either a drop or rise. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of our rear bumper, it's going to be about four and a half inches. And you're going to use that to figure out if any folding accessories you might have can be stored in the upright position without contacting the bumper.Now when it comes to the installation, some of our customers said they had a little bit of trouble getting the hitch lined up. It's really not too bad as long as you take your time. Let's go ahead and put the hitch on together now. To begin our installation, we're going to be removing six eight millimeter screws from along the bottom edge of our fascia. Now if we come to our driver's side wheel well, we're going to have one eight millimeter screw that we need to take out here. We're going to have two more just like it up along the side edge.Now if you move to the center, we're going to have two 10 millimeter bolts that we need to take out. Then we can kind of peel this down out of the way and that'll expose two plastic 10 millimeter nuts that we will remove as well. Now we're going to have five more plastic 10 millimeter nuts, just like this. Now we're going to have two plastic Phillips head screws just like this, that we need to loosen up. Now these are going to be a little different. We're going to do is loosen them a handful of turns. Then we're going to grab the panel and put some downward pressure on it. Loosen it more and you'll feel it kind of pop free. We got one more over here. Now when we take this one off, our panel won't be supported anymore, so just keep that in mind.We can drop it down and slide it out of the way. We need to lower our exhaust, but before we do that, what I like to do is take a strap and run it from side to side. And that way it'll kind of cradle our exhaust and help support it while we remove those rubber isolator hangers. So to remove our isolator hangers, we're going to have two, one right here at the tailpipe and one further up the exhaust system. But to get them off, spray them down with some penetrating oil or just like soapy water. We can take a pry bar and pry that rubber hanger off of our metal exhaust. The other hanger, if we follow the exhaust back, going to be right here in the center. I use that same technique to get that removed as well.Then we're able to loosen up our strap a little bit. That way our exhaust has some play in it. Now we can remove our heat shield and that's held in place with two 10 millimeter plastic nuts. Grab it, work it down and set it off to the side for now. Now we can trim out our heat shield. Now there's a diagram in the instructions and some measurements, that tell you exactly where you're going to cut it and I went ahead and marked that area out now. Now this is relatively thin metal, so I'm going to cut it with a pair of tin snips. However, I'm sure you can do it with a Dremel tool or even a regular pair of snips. With our heat shield trim, we can now put it back in place. And we're only going to secure it for now with one of our factory 10 millimeter plastic fasteners right here on the stud.Now I'd like to point out our attachment points that are going to hold our hitch in place. On the passenger side, we're going to have three. We're going to use this hole, this hole, and this hole. Over here on the driver's side, we're going to have two attachment points. We're going to have this hole as well as this hole. To get our hardware in place, we're going to be using the fish wire technique. So we'll take the coiled end of our fish wire at first, put it through this hole. We're going to push it back and get the end of it to drop out of the larger one. This can be a little tricky sometimes. So if you have to sometimes it helps to kind of bend that fish wire. You may have to reach up there and feel around for it.Once we have it to drop out, we're going to do is grab one of our spacer blocks. Put that over the coiled end. And then we're going to take a carriage bolt, and thread that onto the fish wire. We can grab the other end of the wire, feed our hardware through that hole. We'll work it back down and get it to drop out. Now for this opening, it's going to be a little different. We're going to use the reverse fish wire technique. So what we're going to do is take the coiled end of our wire, put on our spacer block, our carriage bolt. Then we can work for hardware in and get it to drop back down like that. Now I'm going to repeat that same process and use the same technique over on the other side.Before we put our hitch in place here on the driver's side, we're going to have a stud right here. There'll be a 10 millimeter nut on it that we need to take off. Now with an extra set of hands, we can put our hitch in place. We can take our fish wires and run those through the corresponding holes in the hitch. Once all of our hardware drops through and is lined up, we can remove our fish wire and secure it using a flange nut. We want to get one started on each side, hand tight. That way the hitch will support itself, probably work on this the hardware. With all of our hardware in place and hand tight, now we can use a three quarter inch socket to snug everything down.Now we can use a torque wrench to tighten everything down to the amount specified in the instructions. Now with our hitch all torqued down, we can rehang our exhaust. I lubricated the hangers. Then we can line it back up with the isolators, and put it back into place. Then once it's supporting itself, you can then remove our strap.Now at this point you would trim your underbody panel and put it back into place. Now there is a diagram in the instructions on where you would trim it and I went ahead and just put a piece of tape here to give you an idea of where you would need to cut. This is like relatively thin, almost a cardboard material, so you could use a utility knife, pair of snips or even a Dremel tool to cut out that opening. However, our customer has chosen just to leave this off for now. So we're going to skip that step and you can do the same if you'd like. However, if you want to trim it, follow the instructions and use this as a guide. And that'll finish up our look and our installation of the class three trailer hitch receiver on our 2018 Chrysler Pacifica.

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Test Fit:
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Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
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