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etrailer Class III Trailer Hitch Installation - 2022 Hyundai Palisade

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How to Install the etrailer Class III Trailer Hitch on a 2022 Hyundai Palisade

Hey, everybody. Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2022 Hyundai Palisade, we're gonna be showing you how to install the Class III trailer hitch receiver. But before we do that, why don't we check it out and make sure that this is something that you're looking for. So putting a hitch on the back of your Palisade just makes sense. You know, these are getting really popular and we see a lot of these in here, doing a little bit of everything.

You know, whether it's pulling some trailers around, like a camper or utility trailer, or even just using it for accessories, like a bike rack or a cargo carrier. You know, having a hitch is really gonna open up your opportunities on what you can use your SUV for. I do wanna address one of the questions that we get asked quite a bit, and that has to do with the different types of sub-models that the Palisade comes in and people wondering if the hitch is gonna work with them. And as far as I know, the answer is yes. And one in particular, the Calligraphy model, we get asked about that one quite a bit, and you can rest assured the hitch is going to fit that model as well.

So if that's your situation, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. These Palisades are really good-looking SUVs. You know, they're sporty and really nice. And so for me, trying to figure out what hitch I want on the back of it, I definitely want one that looks good. And I think this one might be my favorite as far as the appearance goes.

I just put on the Draw-Tite version and they sit in the same spot and look similar, but there is a few differences there. The Draw-Tite one you can kinda see has a little support piece that runs across through here, and this one doesn't have that. And I also like the finish of this one. It has the carbide matte black-type finish. And to me, it just kinda looks a little more modern.

You know, a lot of the newer cars, all the plastic and stuff that you see on 'em, you know, kinda have the same texture and same color. And so to me, that kinda sets it apart and kinda just makes it look more like a factory-type option. The hitch is gonna have a two-inch-by-two-inch receiver tube opening, so super common size and a ton of different things that work with it. At the end, there's reinforced collar for a little bit of extra support. And it is going to use that standard 5/8 pin and clip. Keep in mind though, a pin and clip does not come included. If you need one, not really a huge deal. You can always grab it right here at etrailer. The safety chain openings are gonna be nice and thick, so I feel like you can rely on 'em in the event of an unlikely disconnect. And they're gonna be large enough to use just about any size hook that you might have. As far as the hitch's weight capacities go, it's gonna have some really good numbers. The maximum gross tongue weight rating is gonna be 750 pounds, and that's gonna be the amount of weight that is pushing down on the hitch. So really high number, and you should be able to use pretty much any size bike rack or cargo carrier that you want to, for example. As far as the hitch's maximum gross trailer weight rating goes, that's gonna be 5,000 pounds. And that's gonna be the amount of weight that is pulling on the hitch. So the weight of your trailer plus anything that you might have on it. This can be used with a weight distribution system, which is a separate component. And what happens whenever you use that, it's gonna help keep your Hyundai and your trailer nice and level whenever you're going down the road. So if you plan on pulling a big camper or something like that, maybe worth checking out. With that said, if you do use that, the weight capacities are gonna increase a little bit. Gross tongue weight rating will remain the same at 750, and the maximum gross trailer weight rating will be increased to 6,000 pounds. With all that in mind, you know, it's never a bad idea just to grab your owner's manual. That way, you can make sure that your Palisade can pull that much weight safely. And, you know, if you're gonna be pulling a trailer and doing some towing, you are gonna want the lights to work on it. You know, that way, people around you know what's going on and help keep you a little more safe and legal. And to accomplish that, you can always grab some trailer wiring. Now, why don't we go ahead and just grab a couple of measurements. That way, we can try to figure out which hitch-mounted accessories we can use. We go from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening. It's gonna be about 13 1/2 inches. So if you're gonna be pulling a trailer, chances are pretty good you're gonna need to get a ball mount that has a rise in the shank. We go from the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of our rear bumper. That looks like it's gonna be right at about five inches. And you can use that measurement to figure out that if any folding accessories you might have can be stored in that upright position without hitting the back of your Palisade. Now, as far as the installation goes, it's really not too bad, actually. There's a couple of things you gotta do, but everything's relatively easy to get to. There's a few points where you could potentially get hung up that I've experienced in the past. But I have a few, you know, tips and tricks to kinda help you get through there and make it a lot more straightforward and save you a little bit of time. So as long as you stay focused, really shouldn't give you too many issues. But that said, why don't we go ahead pull into the garage and put it on together now. To begin our installation, we're gonna be here at the back of our Hyundai, and we need to lower the spare tire down temporarily. That way, it'll give us some extra room to work. So we'll go ahead pop open our hatch and just lift up on our floor covering here. And then, right inside is where we're gonna be able to do that. So we'll have an access cap here. We'll just take a screwdriver and open that up, and your spare tire tools, now you can just use them. It's a little easier to use a socket like this, so you can get a 13/16. Let's go ahead and lower our tire down and take it off for now. Now, over here on the driver side of our vehicle, we're gonna have this underbody panel. We need to get that removed. So along the bottom edge, we're gonna have three pushpin-type fasteners. You can just take a flathead screwdriver, kinda pry underneath the head of it, and work that whole fastener out. So we'll do the same thing for the rest of 'em here. And then, if you look up top here, there's gonna be some plastic nuts, and what size, this is a 14-millimeter socket. And usually, you can just do these by hand. And loosen 'em up, and if the panel don't wanna come down, sometimes what you have to do is kinda apply pressure downward while you're loosening those, and that'll pop off. But this out of the way, we'll set it off to the side. Now, we can lower our exhaust a little bit to give us some extra room to work. Before we do that, I like to take a strap and just run it from side to side here. That way, we can kinda control how fast and how far we let the exhaust come down. There's gonna be a total of three rubber isolator hangers that we need to take off to get the exhaust lowered. One will be here by the tailpipe. You can spray these down with some soapy water or some type of lubricant to just make it a little easier. And take a pry bar or even a big screwdriver, and we're just gonna work behind that there, our isolator rather, and pop that off. We're gonna have another one located kinda over here. Here's the other one on the backside of the muffler. Some will be a little trickier to get off, but keep at it and work it off. Not a really good spot to kinda pry on. And it doesn't really matter which end you take off per se. It'll go back on the same, so I usually just go with whichever one is easier to get off. So the third one, if you just keep following the exhaust forward, it's gonna be right here. The same deal with it. And once those are free, we'll go ahead and loosen up our strap and get it to come down a little bit. So before we get our hitch up, I just wanna go over our attachment points. There's gonna be a total of four. They're gonna be the same on each side. So we're gonna have two weld nuts here at the bottom, and then just two open holes up top. For the weld nuts, not a bad idea if you wanna spray 'em out with some lubricant or penetrating oil and take a brush like this to kinda clean the threads out. That way, there's no dirt or anything in there that's gonna hang us up. Once the hitch is in place, you're gonna take these bolts and a conical tooth washer. Make sure that the teeth on the washer are gonna face up towards the hitch. So while we're holding the hitch up, these are simply just gonna thread into place. And as far as the other attachment points go, what you're gonna do is take long bolt and a conical tooth washer, slide these through. And I noticed these, particularly this one, kinda hangs up. So it might be easier to do one of these deals like that. And then on the other side where the bolt comes out, you're just gonna take another conical tooth washer and a nut and thread it on. Now, with an extra set of hands, we can take our hitch and raise it into position. Make sure you go over the exhaust. And we can get it lined up here, Line up the holes in the hitch with our attachment points. And you wanna get at least one bolt started on each side hand tight. That way, the hitch will support itself while we work on the rest of 'em. So like I said, with these, if you try to have a washer on it and push it, a lot of times they'll get hung up there. So just kind of a trick, you do one of these deals, and makes it much easier. Looks like this little piece of plastic might be in the way here, so I'm trying to find a way around it. If not, we might just have to take a pair of snips or something and cut a little piece of that off there. I think that's what we're gonna have to do. With this just being plastic, I'm just gonna use a pair of regular snips here and cut a little bit of it off. And it's actually a little tougher than I thought. It looks like there might be a little piece of metal in there, so you need a good pair of snips. And let's see if this goes just through. So it did, and that's all I had to take off there. Just wanna give you guys a pointer here. It seems like with these vehicles, a lot of times on the passenger side here, when you go to put this bolt in, it kinda gets hung up on the heat shield and makes it kind of a pain. I actually got lucky there, that one slid right in. But a lot of times what you can do if it's kinda fighting you, just take a pry bar or screwdriver, something like that, just put it on the head of the bolt and then just take a hammer and kinda tap it. And that'll usually drive it right in. So if that hangs up on you, that's a trick you can always do to get it to go. Now, we can tighten all of our bolts down. So I like to do the ones on the bottom first. I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter. Snug those up. And then for these, I'll be using a 19-millimeter or even a 3/4-inch socket on one side and a wrench of the same size on the other side. Now that everything's tight, we need to make sure to come back with a torque wrench and torque everything to the amount specified in the instructions. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can grab one here at etrailer. Or a lot of times, if you go to your local auto parts store, they'll have one there available to rent. At this point, we can rehang our exhaust so you can spray the hangers down again. And usually going back up, you can just line everything up by hand, kinda slide 'em back on. And once you get this last one on and the exhaust is supporting itself again, go ahead and remove our strap. Now, we can grab our underbody panel and trim this out a little bit. You could probably force it into position, but we can remove a little bit of material and hopefully, that'll make things easier. So I just kinda held it up and looked where I need to trim and drew that out. And if we need to come back and cut more out, we can. Not a huge deal, but with this being pretty thin plastic, I'm gonna use a Dremel tool. You could probably also use a pair of snips or something like that as well. With our panel trimmed out, we can go ahead and reinstall it the opposite way that we removed it. Now, we can go ahead get our spare tire raised back into position. Whenever you're doing this, sometimes it might kinda get hung up if you have it kinda hanging funny. So what I like to do is just kinda keep my hand and kinda just push it up a little bit, and finish tightening it. And then, it'll go right into place just like it should. But other than that, that will finish up our look at and our installation of the Class III trailer hitch receiver on our 2022 Hyundai Palisade..

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