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etrailer Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way RV Upgrade Kit Installation - 2011 Chrysler Town and Country

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How to Install the etrailer Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way RV Upgrade Kit on a 2011 Chrysler Town a

Ryan: Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2011 Chrysler Town and Country, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the ETBC7L, which will give us a seven-way as well as a four-way flat trailer connector.So this kits pretty unique. It's actually particularly designed for those alternative style brake controllers. For example, the Tekonsha RF, or like what I have here today, the Curt Echo. So since these alternative style brake controllers only require a 12 volt auxiliary power, that's all we're going to have to run here to our seven-way, with the exception of our normal lighting functions. That way, we don't have to worry about running unnecessary wires, finding our Town and Country's factory brake light switch and dealing with tapping it in, and not to mention, bolting up with traditional style brake controller to our dashboard.

The setup gives us the ability to use this style of brake controller, which can just easily be plugged in whenever you need it, and you can pop it out whenever you're done with it.So not only that, it's going to give us that seven-way function. If you have a, maybe, utility trailer that has a seven-way plug, you can then hook up to it. And it's still going to actually maintain a factory four-flat connector. So two extremely common types of connectors, and we're going to have both them. So really versatile and it gives us some options there.Now, since we do have a 12 volt power supply back here, if you do happen to have, say, a utility trailer or maybe a camper, if your trailer might have a winch on it or an electric jack, something like that, anything with batteries on it really, this is actually going to charge or maintain the batteries whenever you're hooked up to it.

So we kind of get two for one, nice little bonus.So if I needed to put a brake controller in my own Town and Country, I definitely think this kit would be the way to go, to be able to utilize that alternative style brake controller. Compared to the traditional style ones, I think the wireless one is going to have an advantage, and really for a few different reasons. First one being, we don't have a ton of room inside of our van. We have a lot going on and with the large box of a traditional style brake controller, it'd have to be mounted down here somewhere to the dash and it can get in your way, can be kind of annoying sometimes. The other big reason would be the fact that we don't have to tap into our factory wiring at all.

And with these electronics being really complicated and advanced, if you can avoid doing that, I'd definitely recommend it. So we're not going to have to worry about that with this setup.The way the ETBC7L is going to work, is this going to plug into a four-way flat trailer connector and we're going to have a power wire that just runs up to the battery and gets connected there. And that's really all there is to it. And with this wireless technology being so advanced and reliable nowadays, why not take advantage of itNow, one thing I definitely want to mention is that, you are going to need a four-way flat connector to work in conjunction with the ETBC7L. So if your van doesn't have that right out of the factory or you don't have one already installed, you are going to need to pick one up and get that in place first.

And you can find a couple of different types of that wiring here at the end of the day, a great way to allow us to utilize a alternative style brake controller, give us that 12 volt power source, and have two really common types of connectors that we can use for each different type of trailer that we might have. Now as far as the installation goes, it's really not too bad. It is going to plug into that previously installed four-way flat connector. We're going to have a ground and a power wire that we need to run, and that's really about it. So it shouldn't take you too much time.So to begin our install, we're going to be here at the back of our Town and Country. And the first thing that we're going to want to do is secure our bracket. So this bracket here does come included with the kit, but we didn't have a way to attach it to our hitch. So I did have to use a no-drill long bracket, which is this one right here. So that it clamps around the hitch, and then this simply just bolts to it. If you want to use the same setup, you can find this bracket as well as many others here at etrailer.But once you have that in place, what we're going to do now is take our seven-way connector. We're going to get that installed into the bracket. So we'll feed all our wires through, push it flat. We're going to take our screw, feed it through there. On the backside we're going to put a flat washer, a split lock washer, and a nut. So I'll get this one hand-tight. The other three remaining holes on our seven-way plug will receive that same hardware. So once I get them all started, I'll come back and snug them down. So to get these bolts tight, with just a three-eight socket, we'll hold the nut on the back side and we'll tighten the screw down with our Phillips-head screwdriver. So once you have all four snug, what you can then do is, grab your four-way connector here, and that groove is going to fit inside of this cutout, here on our bracket.Now, if you moved to our four-way flat plug here, going to pop the cap off, and we need to plug the into our previously installed four-way flat connector. So here that is, and these are just going to plug right in. I do suggest so using some dielectric grease. You find that here at etrailer. And just coat those terminals really well, and this will just really help prevent any corrosion issues down the line. Get that coated, pretty straight forward here, and just plug into each other, like so. You can leave these caps on or what I'm going to do is cut them off, and then I'll come back with some electrical tape and wrap it around this part here, just to ensure a seal connection.So here's what our connector looks like now. I taped it up real good. And then I just zip tied the two together. That way we can ensure that they'll never come apart unless we absolutely want them to. But that being said, while we have our wires down here hanging, easy to get to, what I'm going to do is take our yellow and blue wire here, tape off the ends and kind of put them up there out of the way. Now, the reason I'm doing that is because we will not be using the blue or yellow wire. The blue wire would be, if you we're to hook it up, it's for your brake output signal. And the yellow wire is for reverse lights. That being said, I go ahead, tape the ends off, put them up here, and I'll show you what it looks like.So here's what our two wires look like taped up. And what we can focus on now is the white wire would be pre-attached ring terminal. So this is going to be a ground wire. So we need to find a spot on the body of our vehicle to secure it to. You want it to be nice thick metal, and I think I'm going to go right here on this lip. Thick metal, we don't have anything behind there that our screw would interfere with. I'm going to hold that up. We're going to take the included self-tapping tech screw. Feed that through the ring terminal. We can secure it to the body of the vehicle.Now we can work on this black power wire here. And now this does come pre-crimped with a butt connector. But for a little extra protection, since this is outside, I'm going to replace that with a heat shrink butt connector. You can pick these up here at etrailer. So I'm just going to clip this one off, strip back the insulation, twist the wires. I'm going to trim it a little shorter here. just take our butt connector, slide it over the bare wire, and we're just going to crimp this one side down for now.Now what we can do is grab the big bundle of black power wire that's included in the kit. One end is going to hook up to that black wire there where we just put the butt connector on. The other end is going to run up into the engine compartment and get connected to power. So what you're going to do is take the end back here, strip back the installation, back into the other side of the butt connector, crimp that down. Sometime using this heat shrink one, I'm going to take my heat gun and seal up the ends. Once I have this sealed, I'll run this power wire up into the engine compartment, and then I'll show you the path that I took to get there.So while I was back here before I ran my power wire up front, I figured I'd just kind of clean everything up. This is how it came out. Just use some taping and some of these zip ties just to kind of keep everything off and out of the way. With that being said, our power wire that we ran, it's right here on top of the hitch, comes over right here, follows along the hitch there. And when you're running this wire, you want to be sure to avoid any hot or moving parts and secure it along the way with some of the zip ties. Right up. And that's your spring there, but secured on that little bracket. It was along through here up and over our shock mount, over our fuel filler neck, right over here to our brake lines. So I pretty much followed the brake lines from here on out up to the front. Kind of loops over, over here, and then up into the engine compartment.Now what you can do to make it a little easier to get your wiring up into the engine compartment is go up top, open the hood and take one of your pull wires. You can make one out of a coat hanger or you some heavier gauge wire if you have any laying around. You drop it down from that engine compartment, and then you can take your power wire, pull wire, go back up top, pull on that pull wire and it'll bring our power wire right where we need it.So now under the hood, here's where our power wire came up for on the driver's side by our battery. And what I'm going to do is just kind of run it like this, in behind our fuse box here, and just kind of let it hang out for now. What we're going to do is grab our breaker and find a spot to mount it. So I think where would be a good location is right here along this thick plastic. It's out of the way yet relatively easy to get to. So I'm going to take one of our self-tapping screws, hold our breaker, and place where I want to secure it, and run it down. So I'll grab my other screw and screw down the other side of the breaker as well.With our breaker secured, you can go ahead and just take off the little nuts around the studs there. Don't want to lose them, so be careful with them. We're going to take the power wire that we ran up, and this is going to get connected to the silver post right here. So what I'll do is kind of eyeball the length that we're going to need. Cut off that extra wire, strip back that installation. We're going to crimp on one of the small ring terminals. Slide that over, and pinch it down. Slide over that silver post, take our nut, run it down hand tight, and we'll snug it down using a three eighths socket.For this gold post, you're going to want to grab that remaining wire that you trimmed off. Strip back both ends. One end will receive the smaller ring terminal, and the other end will receive the large ring terminal. Once we have this one crimped down, we're going to take our end with the small ring terminal, slide that over the gold post there, and secure it using our nut. The other end of our wire is going to get connected to the positive battery terminal. So the way we'll do that is take a 10 millimeter socket, going to remove that nut. Take our ring terminal and slide it right over. And go ahead and tighten our nut back down.Now that we have everything hooked up, it's a good idea to test everything and make sure it's working properly. So first thing we're going to do is checked our 12 volt, our auxiliary power. So if I hit this switch you should see our DC volts gauge move. So you can see we're getting the appropriate power back here to our seven way. Then we can hop inside of the car and try out our left turn signal, our right turn signal, our running lights, and our brake lights. And just for good measure, we're going to check our four way flat connector too. Do our left turn, our right turn, our brake lights, and our running lights.And that'll finish up our look at, and our installation of, the ETBC7L on our 2011 Chrysler Town and Country.

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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