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etrailer Trailer Hitch Installation - 2021 Mazda CX-5

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How to Install the etrailer Trailer Hitch on a 2021 Mazda CX-5


How's it going everybody It's Clayton here at etrailer.com. Here at etrailer, we install, test and review a lot of different products to help you as a customer, make a more educated decision before your purchase. Today, we're gonna be working on a 2021 Mazda CX-5. We're gonna be taking a look at, and I'll be walking you through, how to install the etrailer Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver. Adding a hitch to your CX-5 is gonna be huge upgrade. We're gonna be able to take all of our toys with us, whether that be a bike, some cargo, or to even tow a trailer.

This two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, is gonna play well with a lot of different accessories, making it easier to select a cargo carrier, a bike rack or a ball mount. The only part that's gonna be visible is our receiver tube, so you're not gonna see the big cross tube hanging down underneath of our fascia. So it's gonna look nice and factory, while keeping it's sporty look. Our hitch is gonna be a steel construction, so it's gonna hold up really well for a long time. It has a nice black powder coat finish to help resist rust and corrosion, so it's gonna work well and look well for a really long time.

And we do have that two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, like I said, that's gonna play well with most accessories. We are gonna have a standard five eighth inch pin hole. You wanna keep in mind the pin and clip do not come included with this kit, but you can find one here at etrailer. And we do have the rolled style safety chain loops. Those look really nice while also playing well.

There's all different kinds of safety chains, so you're not gonna have to worry about changing out your safety chains on your trailer. Now, I'll get you a couple measurements to help you understand how this hitch is gonna sit on your CX-5. From the ground to the upper part of our receiver tube, we're looking right at 13 inches, and this number is important for ground clearance, and to know if your ball needs to be in a raised or lowered position. And from the center of our panel, to the outermost part of our fascia, we're looking right at three inches and this number is very important for any folding accessories you might have, and whether or not making contact with your rear bumper. And as far as our weight capacities are concerned we are gonna have a 4,000 pound towing capacity.

You do wanna keep in mind, that's the weight of the trailer and the load included on the trailer. And as far as our tongue weight rating, that rating is gonna be 600 pounds. It's gonna be 600 pounds pushing straight down on our receiver tube. Now, in my personal opinion, this is an awesome trailer hitch. Like I said, the only thing that's going to be visible is the receiver tube, and the nice matte black powder coat finish is gonna match our rear bumper here, so it's going to look nice and factory. But that being said, in terms of the installation, getting it installed isn't bad at all. We didn't have to do any drilling, cutting, or trimming and there's no welding, but that being said, I'll go ahead and show you how to get it installed now. To start our installation we're gonna have a plastic underbody panel right here at the back of our fascia. It's gonna be secured with two plastic push pins, one on each side. We're gonna go ahead and remove those. To do so, we're gonna grab a small flat blade screwdriver. kind of, come into this tab, we'll just twist that, and then we can take our trim panel tool and just pull that out. Repeat that same process for the other side. Our plastic panel is now loose. There are a couple tabs that just secure it, so we just wanna grab a small flat blade screwdriver, tend to pull down on those tabs, releasing our panel. Please set this off aside, it will not be reinstalled. Now I wanna come up to the side of our frame rail. We're gonna have this electrical harness. We're gonna take our trim panel tool, and gonna go under that clip and just pry that off to the side, just like so. We'll repeat that same process on the other side. So our instructions actually tell us to lower our exhaust a little bit later, but it's gonna be a lot easier to get to those holes in our frame rail right now, if we lower our exhaust earlier. We're gonna support our exhaust with a cam buckle strap. You can find those here at etrailer.com. We're just gonna run that between our coils on our suspension, hooking it on each side and then tightening it down against our exhaust. And before we remove our isolators we do want to spray that down with some spray lubricant. This is just gonna help make those hangers come off a whole lot easier. We are gonna have two hangers on each side. Now to remove our isolators, we just wanna grab a pry bar, gonna pry against our muffler, so we get those isolators moving. We'll repeat that same process, for our remaining hangers. Now the all of our isolators removed, we can let a little bit of tension out of our cam buckle strap to give us a little bit more room to work. And then working on the back of our frame rail, we're gonna have some tape covering our weld nuts. We're just wanna grab a small flat blade screwdriver, kind of, scrape that tape off. Now our next hole is gonna be up here by our subframe mount. We just wanna grab our screwdriver, kinda pry that tape off. We already have two more on the passenger side, so we'll repeat that same process. We're now ready to fish wire our hardware. We're gonna be using our rear most holes on each side. Just wanna take the coiled end of our fish wire put that through and bring it out to the bottom. Now, on the coiled end of our fish wire we're gonna add our spacer block and our carriage bolt. You wanna make sure to hold onto this that way it doesn't drop through the frame. Then we can just take our spacer block, push that up into our frame rail along with our carriage bolt, and then pull it out. Then we actually need to push that back into the frame rail so we can lift our hitch up. So, we'll repeat that same process on the other side. Before raising our hitch into position, we needed to tape our flat washers to the inside channel, here on our hitch. We're just gonna use some blue painter's tape to do so. We'll just place our washer in the middle of our tape. We'll just line that up with the hole in our hitch. We can just use a knife to clean out that hole. We repeat that same process for our three remaining holes. Now with an extra set of hands, we're ready to lift our hitch into position. Now we just wanna get our pull wire, through the hole in the hitch, just like so. We can grab our pull wire off there, and grab our flange nut and get it started. We'll do this on both sides. For our hardware and on weld nuts, we're gonna be using our conical tooth washer with our provided bolt. You want the teeth facing up and towards the hitch. We now grab our bolt, slide it into the side of our hitch and get it started in our weld nut. You might have to wiggle the hitch a little bit to help that hole line up. We now wanna go to 19 millimeter socket and wrench, tighten that up. Do this for all of our hardware. Before we torque down our hardware we wanna make sure to push our wiring back into it's desired location on each side. Now I just wanna come back and torque everything down to the amount specified in our instructions. We're now ready to lift our hitch back up and slide it onto our hangers. We now just wanna remove our cam buckle strap. Everything tightened and torqued down, and our muffler hung back up. We're ready to hit the road. That's gonna do it for our look at and our installation of the etrailer Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2021 Mazda CX-5..


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Employee Clayton O
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Clayton O

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