Extang B-Light LED Lighting System Installation - 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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How to Install the Extang B-Light LED Lighting System on a 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500


Hi there, Silverado owners. Today in your 2014 Chevrolet Silverado, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Extang's B-Light truck bed LED light system.With the bed light kit, you're going to receive eight different light modules that each had six LEDs to light up the back of your truck. This can have all kinds of different uses, whether you've got a show truck, and you're just wanting to show off the back, maybe you've got some substance speakers back here. Or if it's your work truck and you don't want to fumble around with what you have here in the back, you want to be able to see what you're doing and get to the things you need, this will solve both of those problems.What I like about this kit is that it installs underneath the truck bed rails. This keeps your lights nice and safe, because I use my truck as a work truck, so I'd be throwing stuff here in the back, whether it be wood, tools, or just a piece of equipment, I don't want that stuff to accidentally hit my lights when I'm just tossing it in here. I'm a little careless and that throws things back here, so I want my lights to be able to be protected so I don't have to think about it.

This is a great spot to do so. I know in this spot here, there's really just no chance of me throwing something back here and it hitting these lights and causing damage to them.They're also going to look great if you have a tonneau cover or a camper shell installed. And if you have a tonneau cover, I highly recommend getting these, because if you've got your cover close and you want to get back in here, even if it's during the day, it can be hard to see in the back. Having some lights here in the back is going to make it so much easier and more functional if you've got a tonneau cover.I also like the mounting options that you get with your lights. On the back of each light, you'll have double-sided adhesive pads that's going to stick it up underneath your bed rail.

I've got that mounted with just the adhesive pettier, and I mean, they're solid. They're not coming off of there. But it does also come included with self-tapping screws that you can run into the small tab out on one side of the light to ensure that it stays up. I ended up not using them on this truck, because I was afraid that it may poke through the bedrail and I don't want to cause any damage. After feeling how solid it was with just the adhesive pad, it really just doesn't even seem necessary to add these.To turn your lights on and off, you will get a switch that comes included with it.

The switch does also come with a bezel that you can use to help get it mounted onto your dash. It is a curved bezel, so it's contoured for many dashes out there. It's kind of a universal fit, so it doesn't fit perfect on every truck, but I do like that they gave you a slanted option in case that's the only place you have to mount your switch as an area where it has that slant.Now on our truck, this bezel didn't really work out so well, so we we're able to just cut a hole and get it mounted directly in. But it looks great once you got it in there. I mean, it looks almost like it's supposed to be there.

The red sticks out a little bit in color. I think a black switch would look a little nicer, but it's very functional. It's tucked up out of the way, so you're not going to accidentally bump it. It's pretty easy to access to get back here to get this switch installed, because you could put it all kinds of places across your dash, but how difficult is it to get behind that dash to ensure you've got enough room for the switch to fit as well as get back there and get it wired This spot here is extremely easy. We're going to go over that now and how we got everything wired up so you can follow along.We'll begin our installation by figuring out where we want to position our lights. Typically, they're located up underneath the bed rail or on the side of the bed. Since we've got a bed rug installed on ours, we're not going to be able to put ours on the side using the adhesive tape. There are included self-tapping screws, so you could self tap it into the side panels if you want. We're just going to be using the adhesive that's found on the back and we're going to be putting them underneath the bed rail aiming down.Before we do that, we're going to use some alcohol to clean off the underside here to ensure that they stick properly. We have a total of four here. We've positioned it between our two lights here, so two on each side of our middle piece here, because we're not going to be able to put a light there. All we're going to do, and I'm going to start with this middle one here, because the big part on this truck is making sure that we're going to have a place for all these to stick. After peeling off the backing, you just want to find a flat spot underneath and poke your light up on there and push it in place. We'll then repeat that for the remaining lights. To ensure good adhesion, you want to hold it about 20, 25 seconds.The nice thing about our bed rug is we can tuck our wiring behind it. There are some included wiring holders that come with it. They have adhesive backing as well, so you can just stick them on and poke that wire in. But since we've got our bed rug here, we can just run ours down and tuck it under behind it. Now that we've got this side all run, we're going to repeat the exact same process on the opposite side.Now, while we're going to be hiding most of our wiring behind our bed rug, some of the wiring that goes from light to light is pretty taught already, so we really won't be able to tuck beneath, so we're going to use the clips that come in our kit to keep that wire secure. They just use the adhesive backing to hold it in place. We're going to peel that off. You can then spread the clip out just a little bit. Then we can slide that over the wire and then use the adhesive backing that we had already peeled off and just stick it up here and that'll keep our wiring up out of the way so that way nothing that we put in the back of our bed can accidentally grab it and pull it down. You can repeat that as many times as you need wherever you have some loose wiring.Now that our lights are in place, I'm going to take the wiring that we had left on our lights here and I'm going to write it in the cab to where we're going to be mounting our switch. I'm going to get that wire right up to that point now, and then I'll show you the path I took to get it there. I've gone ahead and routed the wire from our passenger side behind the bed rug all the way across to our driver's side here. The driver's side, I routed behind the bed rug. You'll have a grommet here you can take out and then you can put your wiring down to that and that will go behind the bed. But now if you don't have a bed liner to hide it behind, you can always use the included clips to secure the wiring to the back side of your truck bed here.Now once you get to this point here, though, rather than running each wire up individually, we're going to connect the wires together at this point. You want to look. Your wires are labeled on the ends. Positive and negative, I actually knocked off the positive sticker and couldn't find, it so I put some blue tape on there to remind me, but there is a sticker on it with a plus for the positive side. Now what you want to look at though, is we're going to have to cut this further down, because it's pretty hard to use the sticker at this end when we're cutting it down here. The negative wire is the one that has writing on it. I would double check yours just to make sure that yours is the same way, but first look at the sticker end and then follow that wire down the way for writing, and on both of mine on the passenger and driver's side, the negative had writing on it.Keeping that in mind, if we're going to cut off the excess length that we don't need from this wire. We're going to trim that about there. Then we can strip back each of these, so you want to cut in between first to split them. Then we can strip back each end. You'll notice here, we've got writing on the wire so we know that this is our negative wire when we go to hook it up. Then we're going to cut our other wire here for the other light. Same thing, we're going to separate and split. Strip them back. And at this point now, we just need to hook them together. Really, all that needs to happen in the end is that all the positives need to be hooked together and all the negatives need to be hooked together.It doesn't matter which side of what connections they come out of or anything like that. We know writing on the wire means negative. We double checked that. We've got those two right here with writing on them, so we're going to twist those together. We're going to place a butt connector on it. We're using a heat shrink butt connector since it's outside the vehicle. You can pick those up here etrailer.com. Then we're going to crimp it onto that wire. Our other pairs of wires here, they don't have writing on them, so we're going to go ahead and crimp these two together.Our remaining wire, we just need to make sure we put the blank wire with the blank wire and the wire with writing on it with the wire with writing on it. We'll start with the one that has writing on it. Just follow her down until you see the writing. Right there, we have writing, so that makes it this wire. And this is our wire with writing, so it's going to crimp onto there. We just poke it in and then we'll crimp them together. Then we'll do the same thing with our last wire. Then we'll use our heat gun to shrink these down.Then I took our wire down from our bed and we followed our factory harness going forward. We're going to zip tie it along the way. You could use the included stick clips that they come with, but underneath the truck here, it's exposed to moisture and a lot of dirt and grime. I don't see that those are going to last. On your truck when riding the wiring, you just want to make sure that you avoid anything excessively hot, such as your exhaust, and anything that's moving, such as your steering and suspension components. On your Silverado, you'll have a parking brake cable here. We're just going to poke it up through the floor, through this grommet, into the cab.We're now in the cab and we're going to need to find where we passed our wire through the grommet. Now, I know on our vehicle here that it's going to come out underneath the carpet. We're going to pull up on this panel here and set it aside. This will give us access underneath. We can just pull the carpet up just enough to get to where the grommet is. That's right there, and there's our wiring. We talked earlier about the stickers for labeling them. This is what you're going to see. This is the factory sticker that came on it. Now that we've got that routed here, it's a good time to figure out where we're going to be putting our switch. We're just going to leave those there and we'll come back to them.This is what you'll get in your kit as far as just which comes. You'll have your switch here and then you'll also get a bezel that you can use if you want to use it or not. Now, the bezel really is not going to work for us on this truck. It just doesn't sit properly on any of the angles. It does have an angle in it because that's kind of common for a lot of dashes to have that slant, but it's just not going to work for us. What we're going to be doing is just cutting out a rectangle hole the size of our switch where we can just poke it in. We're going to mount it on this here, so I'm going to go ahead and get this panel pulled off. It just pulls off, there's no screws or anything, and then we can see the backside to make sure we've got enough clearance on the backside and then mark and cut out our hole.Now you're going to want to cut out your hole. There's a lot of different ways you can cut it out. I want to start by drilling a hole in the center and then using a Dremel tool to cut out the rest. Once you've got kind of the basis of your hole cut out, you can clean it up the rest of the way up with the file. I always recommend that you go a little bit smaller with your hole because you can make it slightly bigger with the file. It's a lot easier to make those subtle adjustments. Once you're satisfied with your, hole test to fit, make sure it slides in, and it should pop in and click into place just like that.Now that we've got our wire for our lights routed inside and our switch mocked up or we're going to place it, we need to get power in there to the switch. Now, there wasn't enough wire included with the kit to run power from our battery. Depending on where your battery is located on your truck, you may have enough excess, but since ours is on the opposite side over here on the passenger side, we had to extend it. If you need an additional wire, you can pick some up here etrailer.com. Additionally, you should never hook anything up directly to your battery without having fuse protection. If there's no fuse protection and you have a short, it could lead to a potential fire hazard, so I recommend that you also purchase a fuse harness, which you can get here etrailer.com and place it in between your power wire and your positive battery posts to protect yourself.Now that we've got our fuse harness, we're going to hook that up first. They come pre-stripped. On one side, we're going to place our ring terminal, which you can also get here etrailer.com. We'll crimp that on. We can go ahead and hook up our ring terminal side now to our battery positive post. We're going to remove the nut on the post there using a 10mm socket. Now, yours may vary depending on your battery. We're taking that all the way off. We're going to slide our ring terminal over the battery positive stud and then re-install the hardware. You may have to keep a little bit of upward pressure on the stud when tightening it back down.And now on the other side of our harness, we're going to crimp together our harness with the wire that we're going to run inside for our battery positive. This whole time we're going to make sure we keep our fuse removed so that way we don't accidentally cause any shorts or running the wire. We'll now crimp on this using a heat shrink butt connector. Then we can run our battery positive wire inside. I've already run it and I'll show you the path I took to get it there. I followed our factory wiring across the top here, all the way over to our driver's side. Once we get over to our driver's side, we go through the grommet located here in the firewall to bring it inside the cab. Just like before, we'll shrink down our butt connector. We'll need to route our positive wire from our grommet where we came through up to where our switch is mounted.Now, you can see here I had to extend the wire to get up to our switch. Remember in the back when we cut off some excess so we can connect the two lights together That's great extra wire to use. That's the same wire that I actually used, so it actually just goes right into a piece that we'd cut off at the back and there was plenty there to go up to our switch. We're now stripping back to the ground wire. This one we don't really need to extend, because it just needs to hook to the ground, and you could actually ground it at any point. You don't have to ground it here in the cab. You could have grounded it back there by the lights and the bed using a ring terminal and a self-tapping screw. I just wanted to bring all my connections inside, it just seems to hold up better against corrosion when things are inside.Now that I got that stripped back on our ground wire, we're going to crimp on a ring terminal and then we're going to get it secured with a self-tapping screw. You can pick both of those up here etrailer.com, as your lighting kit does not come included with any connections to get your wires attached. We're just going to push this through, crimp it down, and then we'll use our self-tapping screw just to run it right here and it'll stay hidden behind our paneling. You want to avoid these slots here because that's where prongs would push in to hold it in place, so you've probably got some plastic molding around that, so we're going to go down just a little bit just to make sure we avoid that. And now we've got our ground.You can see now that both of our wires have been rounded up here to connect to our switch. We've got our battery positive that connects to our fuse harness from the battery and then we've got the battery positive wire that comes from our light assemblies. We don't need this much wire, so we're going to go ahead and trim these back. I do always like to leave a little excess, though, so when you're taking this panel off or you have a tech in the future that's going to be doing any repairs and he has to remove it, he can do so without interrupting the work that we've done here. We'll strip each one of these back.Then on each one of these wires, we're going to crimp on a female spade terminal. You can also pick those up here etrailer.com. This way, they will slide directly onto the switch that comes provided in your kit. Now, we can just plug these into the backside of our panel. It doesn't matter which one goes where as long as each one is connected. It's a little tight in there, but I assure you, it does fit. There we go. We got one on. Now the second one. There we go. If you disconnected any wiring to remove this, make sure you connect all those connectors back in. Then you can re-install any panels that you had taken off to get to there.All that's left now is to insert a fuse into your fuse harness and everything should work properly. I'm going to be using a 10-amp fuse for my lights. If you need a fuse, you can pick one up at your local automotive store. Now let's go hit our switch and test everything out and then we'll clean our wiring up once we've confirmed everything's working.Our off position is the blank side and our on position is the small white dot. Let's check our lights. You can see here that our lights are working great, we've got them running down both sides. We'll check our switch a couple of times just to make sure that they're turning on and off properly. But yeah, it looks like we're a go.That completes our look at Extang's B-Light LED truck bed light system.


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