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Resse 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch Installation - 2008 Ford F-350 Super Duty

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How to Install the Resse 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch on a 2008 Ford F-350 Super Duty


Today, on our 2008 Ford F350 Super Duty, we'll be installing the Reese Quick Install custom base rails and outboard install kit for Fifth Wheel trailer hitches, part number RP 56005-53. To begin our install, we'll first go ahead and lower and remove the spare tire and remove both rear wheels. Next, we'll need to remove the two rear parking brake cable brackets that are secured to the frame. Go ahead and pull the fastener out, and rotate the bracket down out of the way. Next, we'll move into the pickup bed. Go ahead and take the rear base rail, set it into the pickup bed, and measure from the end of the pickup bed to the rear edge of the rail as per the instructions. Once we have our length measured out, we'll then go ahead and adjust it from side to side, measuring from the edge of the base rail to the inner wheel well. Now that we have it in position, we're going to go ahead and take our paint marker, mark out the four outside attachment points. For this application, this will be the second set of holes in from the outside edge.

Now, with everything marked, I'm going to go ahead and take a small pilot bit and run through the center of each attachment point. Next, we'll take the side bracket, put it up in position on the frame, and check for our pilot hole to go down through the attachment point of the side bracket. Note, for this application, on the driver's side, the fuel tank filler tube can be in the way. To assist in getting it out of the way, we'll just simply take a strap or bungee cord and pull the tubes over out of the way, giving us access to put the side bracket into position. Here you can see the pre-drilled holes. Now put the side bracket in place, and, especially on the driver's side, the pre-drilled holes are shifted to the rear of the truck and not completely lining up with the attachment points of our side bracket. We'll need to go ahead and adjust accordingly, so that we line up with our side bracket.

For this application, I'll be moving my pilot hole forward approximately a quarter of an inch. I also repeat the same process on the passenger side. While it's not as off, this will keep the base rail square to the pickup bed and help adjust for any manufacture tolerances. Now, with the new pilot hole drilled out, let's go ahead and check it with our side bracket. Now that it falls in the center of our side bracket attachment point, we're ready to go ahead and drill it out as per the instructions. We'll use a step bit process, enlarging the bit each time we go until we get to our final size. Now, with all four holes drilled out, we go ahead and put the base rail back over the attachment points. Now, with our attachment holes lining up with our side bracket, we'll need to install the side bracket.

To help secure it, we'll start with the 5/8 carriage bolt that'll go through the side bracket, through a large spacer block, through the pre-drilled hole in the frame by the manufacturer, and then secure it on the back side or inside of the frame with another block, split-lock washer and nut. Now, with one side done, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process on the opposite side. With the holes drilled out from the front rail, we'll now go ahead and place the U-shaped blocks between the side bracket and bed corrugation. We do this to take up the gap between the bed corrugation and the side bracket, so we don't smash the corrugation in the pickup bed. Now, with the hole in the side bracket in place, we'll go ahead and drop our carriage bolt into position. We go down through the base rail, through the pickup bed, through our U-shaped spacer to compensate for the bed corrugation, then through the custom side bracket. To secure it, we'll install a half-inch conical tooth washer, the teeth of the washer facing the side bracket, and then a nut.

Now, with one side done, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process on the opposite side. Now, with the rear rail and outside fasteners installed, we're going to go ahead and tighten them down. This will help to hold the rail in position as we use it to inset the front rail. To do that, we'll go ahead and put the front rail into approximate position, and then use our Fifth Wheel or gooseneck adapter plate, and line it up with the center slots for the front rail, make any necessary adjustments, and can even take the pins and install them to make sure that the front rail is square to the rear rail. I'm also going to go ahead and double-check it with a tape measure. Now we've got our front rail in position, I'm going to go ahead and take a small pilot bit and run it through the center of each attachment point. Once we have our front rail pilot hole drilled, again, we'll check underneath to make sure the holes line up with our side bracket. We'll go ahead and drill out the four outside attachment points, repeating the same process we did for the rear base rail. Now, with all four drilled out, we'll go ahead and put the base plate back in position. Now we can install our bolts and hardware as we did in the rear base rail. Now, with the front rail hardware installed, we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Next, we'll move back to the side bracket. Next, we'll need to install our clamp around the side bracket. First, we'll feed the long bolt through the clamp and then feed it over the frame from inside out, through the side bracket. We will secure it with a conical tooth washer and nut, then tighten it down. We want to make sure we tighten them down evenly to avoid bending the clamp. With that done, we can now tighten and torque down the rest of our bolts as indicated in the instructions. Next, we'll need to add hardware to both the front and rear rail. This will be the center attachment point for each, on the front side for the front rail, and on the rear side for the rear rail. We'll go ahead and use our power bit to drill it out, and a step bit process to enlarge it large enough for our two-inch carriage bolt. Then we down through the hitch, through the pickup bed, where it'll get secured with a conical tooth washer and nut. Now we'll tighten and torque down the center bolt. Now, with all the hardware installed and tightened down, and torqued to specification, we'll need to reinstall the parking brake cable brackets. As you can see, our rear attachment point lines up perfectly with the pre-drilled hole in our custom bracket. However, the forward one, mostly covered up, will be unusable. So with one attachment point still inside the window of the pre-drilled hole in the side bracket and the other one covered up, we'll go ahead and install the rear one first. We put the bracket in position and secure it with the manufacturer fastener. For our other hanger bracket, we'll go ahead and drill out a pre-drilled hole first. Once the hole is drilled out, we'll take the bolt, put it in position, feeding it from the inside the frame out. Next, we'll take the hanger bracket, feed it over the bolt, install a flat washer and then a nylon lock nut and tighten it down. Once that's done, we can go ahead and remove the bungee cord we used to hold back our fuel tank filler tube. Now, with everything installed and secured, we can go ahead and reinstall spare tire and rear wheels. Now, with that done, we're ready to hit the road. That does it for the install of the Reese Quick Install custom base rails and outboard kit for Fifth Wheel trailer hitches, part number RP 56005-53, on our 2008 Ford F350 Super Duty. .


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Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K

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