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5th Wheel Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Ford F-350 Super Duty

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How to Install a 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch on a 2012 Ford F-350 Super Duty


Today on this 2012 Ford F350 SuperDuty, we're going to show you the Custom Under-Bed Installation Kit for B&W Companion 5th-wheel trailer hitches, part number BWGNRK1111-5W. Let's go ahead and take a look at the frame bracket right here. This bolts up to the frame of the truck and requires no drilling of holes in the frame whatsoever. Its comes with all provided hardware, and this is going to be the same on both sides. This is our driver side. Let's go ahead and take a look at the passenger side. The passenger side attaches in the same locations, even though our bracket is a little bit different shape.

It also accommodates the rivets on the frame as well. This also makes a great base for the B&W companion hitch adapter as well. Now, we'll go ahead and show you how the hitch installs. To start off our install, first off we're going to go ahead and mark and cut a 4" hole in the truck bed. Now, we're going to have to mark for our hole and drill a couple times because we have a bedliner to deal with as well. To measure out, we'll go ahead and roughly find the center of our truck right here.

We'll measure from the edge of the bed up the measurement described in the instructions. Next, we need to make sure it's centered in the bedliner, left to right. Right now, we've got our distance, front to rear, and we found our center of the bedliner right here. We'll go ahead and drill out our hole. Bedliners won't be exact, so we're going to drill out a 1/4" hole here first.

After our pilot hole here, we'll go ahead and drill out a 3" hole, and that will give us a more exposed area, and we can find the center of our bed from there, and then, we'll continue on with our final hole size. We just want to drill through the bedliner. We'll go ahead and prop it up with a piece of wood first. Now that we have a hole through our bedliner and we can see where we have our dimple in the bed for factory Gooseneck hitch. One thing to know is that in the instructions they say that this hole does not line up with their measurements. In this case, we won't be using it.

It will be off by a 1/4". However, this tells us exactly left to right. We just have to measure from rear to front. Our measurement for our hitch is going to be just about 1/8" short of the factory mark. Let's go ahead and pull out our wood, and we'll go back in and drill out our pilot hole. We'll just go ahead and use a 1/4" drill bit for our pilot hole. With our pilot hole, now we'll go through our bedliner and bed with a 4" hole saw. The first layer and now our second layer. Let's go ahead and continue working our way down underneath the truck. At this point, it's a good idea to go ahead and lift the body of the truck up so the suspension hangs down low so you have easy access to the inside of the frame right here. Actually, if you need more, if you can take off the tires and wheels as well and that will give you a little bit more room and visibility. Next, you definitely want to take your spare tire down out of the way. I'd show you but you're probably tired of it by now. Of course, this will all go back up when we're done. Next, we'll go ahead and lower our exhaust to make it easier to put the components between the bed and the frame of the truck. We'll go ahead and unbolt our hanger here, and there's also a bolt going through the frame this way. To remove this hardware, we'll use a 10mm socket. We'll move up to this flange right here and loosen up these 3 nuts. These are studs, so this part will stay in place. We'll use a 15mm socket on the nuts. Loosening up this hardware will give us a little more flexibility at the tailpipe. This gave us about 4" of working room. A couple more things to do to the truck to get it ready to install the hitch. We will work with one of the crossmembers to help us do that. This is our rear crossmember. You can tell by it has 1 notch, 2, and 3 notches. When it's in the truck, it will sit up like this going towards the back. Now to make this fit, we're going to have to make a notch in the bed here. I'll go ahead and line it up with the shock mount on the passenger side because it has to go over a shock mount first and then towards the back. We'll go ahead and use this as a rough guide for our notch. This wiring cable is not from the factory. Typically, you won't have this. This is aftermarket, you wont' have this in your way. We're using tin snips, we'll go ahead and cut out our notch. After you make the notch, don't be surprised if you have to make it a little bit bigger to get that rail in as well. I think we'll just take this last little bit here and just work it back and forth to break it free. Let's go ahead and slide in our rail. Now, you'll run it over to the other side. On this particular mount, the shock mount is a little bit taller side and plus the heat shield is getting in the way too. The chances are you'll probably have to rotate it or flip it or work it or pry it over the shock mount to get to the other side. Once you get it started, it will help to use a mallet to help work it through. This little vent line right here, we need to go ahead and just pull it off for now. Once everything is done, we'll go ahead and put this back up into place. At this point, you can go ahead and work your crossrail over towards the back, and this will drag on the heat shield as well. You may have to take a mallet and once again tap it and work it's way back. Now, we'll work with our front rail, which only has the 2 notches. When we install it, you want this edge right here facing towards the front of the truck. This one actually faces the opposite way. It's a little bit easier to get over that shock mount. There it goes. Let's go ahead and take our bar now and go ahead and set it vertical like we have this one here. At least the heat shield in this case will work to our advantage and help hold everything straight. Now, we're ready to install the center section of our hitch. First off, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands at this point to help pull it up and push it into place. What may help is going ahead and using a strap of some sort, attach it to the center pin and pick it up that way. This will help for the guy in the bed to help pull it up. We'll go ahead and flip it to the side, and when we install it we also want to make sure that this pin right here that locks the ball in place is going towards the driver side. We'll go ahead and show you the hardware that will go in all 6 holes in the hitch head assembly. The hardware will go through the crossmember that we already installed into the truck followed by 1-1/2" bolt and flat washer through the crossrails, through the hitch, and then the bottom on the inside will get a lock washer and nut. Let's go ahead and slip our hitch over our exhaust. That's going to be a really tight fit to work it over our lines right here. Be a little bit careful and then push it up into place. With the center of the hitch being supported from the top, we'll go ahead and get our bars together. It may help to use some pliers to help put them together, and we'll put our hardware through. Oval slot gets a flat washer, and then, we'll install a lock washer and nut on the other side. We'll get 1 on each side to stabilize it. With 2 bolts holding it in place loosely, the guy in the bed can take a break now. Let's go ahead and put our side bracket into place. We're looking at the passenger side. Go ahead and put it between our rails, and we should have this hole here somewhat line up with this oval hole here. We'll put it into place, and we see we're kind of missing it. That means we've just got to take our hitch and rotate it to this side towards the front. There we go, much better, and plus our bracket fits over this rivet now too. Now that we know our frame bracket will fit, let's go ahead and install the hardware for it. We'll take the long 3/4" bolt with a large flat round washer, install it through this hole right here and this spacer goes on top. Fit our bracket into place with 3/4" lock washer and nut. We'll go ahead and spin it together so it holds it's shape. Next, we'll go ahead and install our hardware here and here. We're using the same 1-1/2" bolts with flat washers, lock washers, and nuts. Now with our hardware, we're going to take the bolt only and run it from the inside to the outside, then our flat washer, lock washer, and nut. We're going to do the same thing over here. Let's go ahead and install our hardware that will connect our frame bracket to our crossrails. We'll start on this side, bolt, flat washer through the crossrail, frame bracket, lock washer, and nut. Everything is still pretty loose but holding its shape. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on our driver side. On our driver side, it's going to use a different washer. This actually uses a square plate with a round hole. That will go through here, another hole in the frame, and allow clearance with this bracket, which is really close to it. It's still going to be a tight fit, but you'll have to get your washer in there just right. It might help to do it this way. Put your washer in first and then your bolt. We'll go ahead and take one more look at our passenger side on the inside edge of the frame. Some models of this truck have an electrical component located right here. If that's the case, the kit does come with a bracket that your component will mount to here and actually with go behind the head of the bolt. In this case, our truck doesn't have a component but you can see if it had it, this is where your part goes. Let's go ahead and put our bracket on for our driver side. You can verify that because it has the instructions on how to work the handle. With this hole, sometimes to get the dexterity, you could probably push the bolt through, but if now, you can use the included bolt leader, run it through the hole, bring it over the top, thread in our bolt, and put it back through. Go ahead and remove our bolt leader and install the rest of our hardware, the same here and here. At this point, we'll go ahead and take a moment to snug down our bolts just to make sure everything touches together with our frame bracket and our crossrails. We'll do this on both sides of the truck. Now, I'll go ahead and make sure our hitch is square with the bed. We'll actually go ahead and measure from this edge to here or whichever works out better for you. It's a personal preference. We'll note this side, and we'll go ahead and compare the other side and make any adjustments as necessary. Once you're satisfied with the alignment of the hitch, at this point, we can go ahead and start tightening down then torque the bolts down as specified in the instructions. We'll start off underneath the truck and do our center section to our crossrails first and then work our way to the outside. To tighten down our hardware from our center section to our crossrails, you'll need a 3/4" socket and wrench. To get access to this bolt here to tighten it down, we're using deep-well 3/4" socket and an extension that has a swivel on the end. Next, frame brackets to our crossmembers. That was our driver side. We'll do the same thing on the passenger side. Now, we'll continue on our fasteners going to our frame bracket to our frame. Now, to tighten down this hardware here, we'll need 1-1/8" socket and wrench. Enough with the hitch bolts, let's go ahead and install our handle next. We're underneath the truck one more time, route it through the opening, in the hitch, and we'll go ahead and route it out over the frame and to the outside. We're going to take our handle, bring it over to our locking pin. We'll take this small carriage bolt, run it through, and then attach the locking flange nut on the other side. We'll tighten it down using a 1/2" socket. After your handle is installed, make sure that this handle is pointing down. Our next step is to go ahead and drill 4 more holes out. This will be for U-bolts. This will work with the safety chains on your trailer. Now, there's a variety of holes in here. Typically, you're going to use the holes that are closest to the center of the hitch. You also want to make sure that these holes line up with the bottom part of the corrugation, so it's sitting as low as possible. We're going to go ahead and mark and drill our holes. We'll go ahead and drill out a 1/4" pilot hole through your bed and bedliner and then come back down from the top down to our final hole size. Let's go ahead and mark these out first with a 1/2" drill bit. Now, I'll use my smaller bit. Here's our holes through our bedliner right here that we drilled through, and here's our U-bolt that we're going to install, just to give you an idea of how much material we have to clean out so this will sit down flat. We'll go ahead and use a rotary tool to go ahead and clean out our extra material. We got one done. Let's go ahead and go to the other side and do it once more. With our slots cut, let's go ahead and drill it to our final hole size for our U-bolts, which will be 1/2". You can go 9/16" if you need to to make things a little bit easier to work as well. Let's go ahead and try out our U-bolts to make sure they operate freely. Once you're satisfied, we'll go ahead and clean out all of our shavings. Let's go ahead and drop in our U-bolts for good. We'll go ahead and install our hardware underneath. Back underneath the truck, let's go ahead and add our hardware for U-bolts, which will be the spring and a lock nut. Now, we're going to tighten down our hardware just enough to where only 2 or 3 threads are showing past the nut, and that's all we need. At this point, our hitch is actually fully installed. Now, we can go ahead and just continue reassembly of our truck. Let's go ahead and put this vent line back into place. Just clip it to the frame, and then, we can work with our exhaust. Now, we'll go ahead and put our exhaust back up. Our exhaust is going to actually hit the hitch if we put it back into place as it. We'll use the supplied bracket that comes with the hitch. This hole and this hole will line up with this hole and this hole here. For this slot here, we'll install the 3/8" carriage bolt. That's going to go through this hole right here, and we'll add a nut. We'll leave that loose for now. Then, this slot with 1/4" width will actually line up with this threaded hole here. This will get it's own carriage bolt, which is 1/4" and will go through the threads of the nut. The nut is not being used, so we'll use the supplied 1/4" nut that comes with it. Let's go ahead and tighten down all of our hardware. This will use 1/2" socket. This nut here will use 7/16" socket. With our bracket in place, we'll go ahead and re-install the exhaust, but we're going to use this existing hole right here. We'll take our 3/8" carriage bolt, run it through, and push it through the hole. We'll install a locking flange nut on the other side. Let's go back up to the front of the exhaust a little bit, and we'll go ahead and tighten down these 3 nuts. Now, we'll go ahead and put our exhaust back up, and we'll go ahead and check for our clearance. It looks like we have plenty of clearance. We can slip our hand through there. Now all that's left is to go ahead and put our spare tire back up, and for us, we'll go ahead and put on our tires and wheels on the back axle. With that, that will finish it for the Custom Under-Bed Installation Kit for the B&W Companion 5th-wheel trailer hitches, part number BWGNRK1111-5W, on our 2012 Ford F350 SuperDuty. .


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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