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Firestone Air Command II Compressor & Air Tank Installation - 2008 GMC Sierra

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How to Install the Firestone Air Command II Compressor & Air Tank on a 2008 GMC Sierra


Today on our 2008 GMC Sierra 2500 were going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Firestone Air Command II. This is a heavy duty compressor and air tank offering dual function and a maximum psi rating of 150 lbs. The part number is F2168. Our gauge is going to allow us to keep monitor and check our pressures. As you can see we can bring these right down to our minimum operating range or then also because we have that tank you can see we can fill individually and you can really see how quickly it really engages. Most of the time wed be sitting here for quite a while trying to get up to what were at now about 40 psi but with that 120 psi in that tank it really helps to take care of that. A great thing is for off center load were going to have full adjustability of that.

We can have one bag with more pressure in it than the other to help level everything out to keep us travelling down the road safely. We can easily connect our horse, push down the lever thats going to engage it for us and then well be able to head over to our wheels or wherever we might need air, whether its on our vehicle or somebody elses. You can see its really handy and allows us to get out there and make that connection. When were done we simply release it and put on our cap. Alright now heres what our airbag kit is going to look like, well start with our heavy duty compressor here as you can see. Its a really nice well put together unit. Youre going to have bushings here at the mounting locations to help isolate any vibration and keep it from being felt through our vehicle.

This is what our gauge kit is going to look like mounted under our dash with individual lever adjustment for both the right side and the left side, with individual needles on our analog gauge here to indicate exactly how much pressure we have in our air bags. A really nice thing about this kit is that were going to have an onboard air supply now. This is a two gallon tank, our compressor is going to run directly into that and from here well be able to air up our airbags much more rapidly than what we would with a standard compressor. The two gallon tank is going to maintain a pressure of 120 psi so were going to have that on hand at any time. It does that using the pressure switch, you can see here its designed to come on at 90 psi. Thats going to kick our compressor on, our compressor knows it needs to fill our tank backup. Once it gets to 120 psi its going to shut that off for us.

We dont have to worry about any switches or any button to get our compressor working. We have all the air line that we need, were going to have all the wiring we need and it also has a 25 ft. extension horse here. This is going to go to an auxiliary port that were going to put underneath the truck and thats going to give us that flexibility to either help out motors, to help ourselves out or get things inflated. All your air fittings, all your hardware and some good instructions are here, this is going to help us get our job taken care of. The first thing were going to take care of is mounting our compressor. Were going to be mounting ours up here on the frame rail.

Were going pretty much just underneath the rear door here on the drivers side with this being the crew cab. Bring our compressor up, give a minimum area where its not going to give any interference to anything. Get a vent tube coming off the back so we want to give it some room to go up and then this is going to run to our air tank Right there looks good so then just check behind the frame rail, make sure youre not going to have any interference there. Then well mark out our hole locations, make sure when you do this you dont let your compressor move. You dont want to have to drill extra holes. Well drill out our holes, these need to be large enough to accommodate a number 10 screw. To get our compressor prepared Im going to go ahead and add in the fitting here at the end. This is going to be for the vent. This is going to go up, its going to get fresh air hopefully with no dirt or moisture in it and then filter it for us before it goes into our system. Once weve got that on were going to take the black air line tubing. One end of that youll want to warm up just a little bit. Then we can push that right on that barbed fitting. Weve got that on all the way the other end is going to go into our filter. You can see and then well be able to run that up and out of the way. Were mounting our compressor we want to configure our hardware so that weve got one of our number 10 screws or bolts going through a flat washer and thats going to go through our bushing. Then were going to put our frame in there, were going to put another flat washer and then a nylon locking nut on the back. What this is going to do is its going to allow that bushing to isolate any of that vibration. Well have our screw with the washer, our bushing, then our frame, then our washer and our nut. Its just going to be hard to see with our compressor in there so we wanted to show you now. Now lets position our compressor, Im just going to tuck my vent to open over this way for now. Well be re-positioning it higher but for now lets just let it come over there, get it out of the way for us. Then well take our screws and those are going to slide right through the holes that weve pre-drilled. Usually you can get all your screws in and just lightly support your compressor while you walk around to that other side. Now we can slide on our flat washer, then well get our lock nut starter and well do that for our three other locations as well. Now we can tighten our bolts down just enough so it makes contact. We dont want to over tighten these, were going to let the bushings do the work and were going to let those lock nuts do their job of keeping everything nice and together. Now its time for us to take the fitting. Its going to be similar to a T but youre going to see this is a threaded side, this one is slightly larger than this one. We need to place this in our compressor but first lets add in the pressure regulator. Pressure switch were going to thread in right to the top with an inch and sixteenth socket to actually hold the regulator and then well use a half inch to turn our T into position here. Once we have this started its a good idea to put it in a vice and have somebody hold it whatever your situation is and then lets get this secured. Just want to make sure that sealants engaged our threads there, youll see our electrical connectors right there. We can thread the other side right into our compressor here. Then just like the other spot we want to make sure that we get that fully engaged with the sealant and our threads. One side of our compressor wire can come over, going to be hooked right there. The other side were going to continue upfront. For our ground wire on our compressor were going to run that right back here and just use a self-taping screw right into our frame rail. Once you got your spot marked where you want it, its a good idea to pre-drill it. Lets get that slid on and we can it nice and secure. Then well be able to zip tie both of those right up and out of the way to keep the protected. Now to prep our supply tank here were going to pull both the caps out of the end, well thread in our quarter inch air fittings just like before making sure we have them in there far enough to really fully engage that orange sealant. This will be nine sixteenths, we do that on both sides. Because of the power running boards that have been added to this aftermarket were going to be using a no drill kit to mount our tank. My part number is F2496. Were going to start by grabbing the bracket out of it. Put that right on the tank itself and now its hard to get to but were going to put our locking nuts right in on those studs and then we want to get those tightened down. Alright here you can see weve got it tightened down, it is a bit of a pain but with a boxed end wrench youll get it done. We can take this over to our frame and get our positioning figured out there. We will be mounting our bracket right up in this area here. As you can see were going to secure our wire there and weve repositioned our brake line here just a little bit, just to give us a little bit of clearance between the frame and the line. We dont want any rubbing to occur. Well position our U bolt so that we can guide it up behind that wire loom and then we should be able to rotate it over to the inside of the frame rail here. Get it moved into position there and then pretty simple youre just going to slide the tank on. Then well thread on a couple of our locking bolts just to keep it secure, now to get those snug down. Alright that thing is not going anywhere. Were going to take our tubing cutter thats part number F9009. We want to make a real nice flush cut on that air line. Were going to run it right up over our frame rail and connect it to our compressor. Youll feel two little clicks as it goes in and then it will come to a stop and then you can pull out on it without it coming it out. The other end here its going to run into our air tank. Again using the tubing cutter its going to get us a really nice flush cut. Thats important to prevent leaks. The other end of our air line lets run it up over top of the cross member here. Its going to go into the other side of our tank. Now we can take our filter end here and its time to run this, Im going to run it right up in the side of the bed rail here and secure it off to one of our vent tubes on our filler net. Now what were going to do is come back to the air line thats on our airbag. Typically these are going to be run to the rear of the vehicle and theyll have independent valves. What we want to do is cut that, still had a little bit of air in it there, and we want to slide each side of that and to our T. Just like before youll hear a little click or feel a little click anyway. We just want that pointing towards the front of the truck. Now were going to take one of our links of air line tubing and well position one end of it right into that T. Then we can run this right along that frame rail up towards the front of our vehicle. Anywhere we find a good anchor point well want to zip tie it out. You do have quite a few zip ties that come with the kit but you may want to pack a few extra too that way you can get everything nice and secure, you wont have to worry about running out. Well do the same thing for our passenger side airbag as well and you can see here where weve used this cross member thats right about where back of the cab and the front of the bed meet to run over above our fuel tank and then forward right along with our other lines. Now we can join the two lines coming from our airbags and with the line coming out of our tank here. Lets run these right up and over the frame rail to the outside here. Lets take another chance to get our line secured up here and were going to be going right that grommet to get our air lines inside of the truck. Remember to do it from the bottom here before we go and you can see customers already ran two wires through here. It looks like a power and a ground probably for these running boards and then theres also this cable that comes through. Im going to go right from there and just cut a slit straight over this direction, being careful not to get in there where we might cause any damage to those wires or that cable. That should help us a little bit when it comes to getting that pushed up and in just like that. Its going to be located under our carpets. Now in here the drivers side kind of a scarf panel here. We just want to pull that up you can there are four connects that hold that in place. If we lift up on our carpeting here well see right there is that grommet. Im going to pull out and back while I hold my hood latch open. Pull that kick the panel out, going to give us some room to throw that carpet up. Just like that and it will give us good room to get in there through that grommet. You want to finish cutting that just being careful of the wires there. Were going to be passing quite a bit through there. What Im going to do is cut that center section of it out. That will give us a little bit area, a little bit bigger area to pass that through and we can always seal that up with a little silicon when were done. Well take our three air lines there, lets run this up through that area. Alright that looks like all of our slack. What were going to do is run these right underneath the carpet. You can see our parking break cable does a pretty good job here of leading the way. Thats going to allow us to make a nicer loop to come right up here to the back of our gauges. Im also going to grab my roll of 18 gauge wire and Im going to run that down through the hole as well. Were going to be making a connection underneath the vehicle here and then zip tie there to hold it. Weve got a rough idea of where our gauges are going to be mounted here. You can see weve got plenty of extra air line that weve been able to run up. Its a good idea since all of our air lines look just alike to get these market. I just put a long straight line this is going to be for my left side airbag, the one thats not marked is for my right side and the one that I put a bunch of little dashes on. Thats going to be the one that actually comes from the tank itself. The one that comes from the tank we need to split this into two lines. Well find a good spot up underneath the dash, use our tubing cutter and get that cut under the end of that. Were going to add on a T, Im going to do it in that inline fashion. That way I dont have a line going out each side, Ill have them coming out closer to one another. Then we can take that excess horse we just trimmed off and give it a good cut in the center. Then we can get those in each side of the T just like that and we dont want our bend to be too dramatic as we get out here a little bit we can actually zip tie them a little closer together. Now weve got our two that are going to go in from our tank and then the two that are going to go out and run back to our airbags. For mounting our gauge were going to be going pretty much right underneath our radio here and just up slightly on our dash. Just mark a line roughly on each side there where were going to be mounting it and then were going to pull this panel out. Before we do that weve got our two lines that are coming from our compressor tank. These need to go one on each side of the red inlets. It doesnt matter which one goes to which side its the same line. We get that slid all the way up and on just like that, the other side here just like that. Then our two other ones, lets cut these to length giving ourselves a little bit of extra. Were going to slide those, you can see right here in the back another push fitting. Slide those all the way until they make a good connection. Alright, just like that. Its time to bring in our red wire that we ran outside of the vehicle. Our red wire is going to connect to one of the wires coming out of the back of our gauge. Just using the butt connector here. I just want to pull on that make sure its connected nice and snugly. Im just going to pull out whatever excess Ive got on that line. For the other side here do the same thing. Use a butt connector here and were going to be connecting this to just an extra part of the wire that we had trimmed off there. Again you always want to give it a pull to make sure its properly connected. Then we can ran that right around that same path that we ran our air line and our other wire to illuminate the panel. Then well be grounding it off to that stud right there. Trim this to length and Im going to add a ring terminal right to the end. Well place that right over that stud and put on that back on. Thats nice and secure. Alright now we can see the ash tray or the storage compartment go in there so now its time to start pulling out on our panel here. Maybe youll be able to get your fingers in here a little easier if you open up the glove box. Once weve got this pulled out enough so we can confirm were not going to be drilling into anything lets use a three sixteenth bit and get our hole done. Just do this on both sides here. Lets take the screws that are provided with it, these are going to be going in the backside coming out to the front. Bring our gauge panel up and then we need to put another flat washer on each of our bolts and also one of the provided locking nuts. Ive got a little right angle screw driver, you could also use a little stubby screw driver. We just want to hold our screw while we tighten down these nuts. Before we tighten it down all the way we get it positioned how we like it and finish it up. Were just going to line our tabs back up here, pop that right back into position. Then were going to use a little cut off wheel and Im just going to trim those bolts up. Wipe that little bit of dust off there. Now well bring our grommet around the parking break cable that was there, the wiring that was there and also our new air line tubing and also the single wire that were running outside of the vehicle. Well you see we just want to pop it back in the floor like that and Im going to fill up pretty much the entire top with silicon sealant here just so we know weve got really good water proof area here no dirt or debris, water, moisture things like that can get in. Now we just prep our carpet up for a little while until that dries while we take care of the rest of our connections here. You can see were under the drivers side door here. Its going to be this large wire loom right there before we went into the car with our line. What we need to do is determine and we found that its this one right here but we need to determine which of these brown wires that weve got on the bottom become hot or activate when we turn on our running lights. In the instructions it will tell you to go to an ignition hot circuit. This truck only has one underneath the hood up there and its currently being used by these running boards and also the fuel pump the customer has got. Just so we dont overload it were going to be using this one since this is a running light circuit. This is going to come on whenever the headlights are on. The headlights on this vehicle come on all the time when the key is in the on position. This should work out great, it should give us what we need but for some reason youre in the habit of turning those off. If you want your compressor to operate or if you need air pressure youll just have to turn them on. Kind of a real nice easy simple solution here where we can get these hooked and we wont have to worry about not having the correct power. Im going to take the line here, this runs out from our gauge inside. This is going to illuminate our gauge. This one actually calls for going to the running light circuit so that when youre running lights are on its going to come on for you. Just going to feed that in, twist those two together then Im using part number DW05745. Its going to be our 10 to 12 gauge butt connector and it does a really good job of connecting two wires together of smaller diameter. You can see there nice and solid. On this other side were going to take our piece of 16 gauge wire that comes with the kit, just like the other side were going to strip that off. Im going to twist it with our ground wire and make our connection here on this side. Alright since weve got both sides of those crimped down really well, since this is a heat shrink butt connect were just going to heat it with a little bit of heat here form a lighter. You could also use a heat gun, one of the little mini torches whatever you might have. Its going to come down really nicely, the wires will look like they magnify and theres going to be a little bit of gel that comes out at the end. Once you see that gel youre going to know that youve got a really good seal thats going to be nice and water tight. Now we can take some tape and just clean that loom up again. Were going to bring this back toward our compressor and about halfway there were going to put in our fuse holder. Now what we need to do here is just split our wire. Im just going to slide one end of that wire on that side, slide one end of our wire in this side and then we want to close those down. Which typically youll have to squeeze them with a pair of pliers just like that. Youll notice we did not strip those. Well leave our fuse out of there for now, well take of that in just a second. Well bring it back to our other spade terminal thats there on our pressure switch. We can trim that end off, were going to strip it back and add on the spade connector. Youre going to add that right on the end there, then we can get it crimped down. Now thats going to go to the other side of that pressure switch. Its just a matter of using a few zip ties to get our stuff secured. Were ready to take the provided 20 amp fuse lets slide that in our fuse holder there and then Im going to be taping that off right to that loom just to give it some protection for it. Right here between our tank and our control we want to cut our horse again, add in our T. This is going to give us our auxiliary fill line the one that we can actually connect the horse to and either aid other vehicles or ourselves in an emergency situation. You will need an extended piece of line here since your truck is so long. Just like before we want to get this secured out. We can zip tie this off here with the other lines that come from our air bags. Just run that up behind our plate area there. What Im going to do is remove my screw out of where my license plate typically would go. Were also going to remove the white plug. Once weve got that popped out of there, pull our line though, wait a minute, then well trim off our excess. We want to pull the cap and also the brass nut off of our valve. Were going to use our two larger stainless steel washers. Place one on the backside and its going to come through right where we brought the air line tubing just like that. The other washer is going to go in the front and its time to thread on our nut again. Im going to tighten that down and then the end of our air line tubing is going to slide right in the back. Then well cap this up, well get our carpeting put back, put our kick panel back in, youll to pull out on that hood release handle a little bit. What you do you just line up your tab, pop it in and we can do the same thing for our scarf panel. Alright now with our setup configured the way it is whenever we turn on our running lights youll hear our compressor kick on as well and our gauge is also going to light up here. Its going to mean our system is working properly. Now what were going to need to do, check for leaks. Were going to use some soap water solution and just spray each of those fittings down. Well give it about 10 minutes or so, inspect them and as long as they dont have any little tiny bubbles forming were going to be in great shape. With everything working and no leaks detected, thats going to complete our installation of the Firestone Air Command II the heavy duty air compressor and air tank with dual function part number F2168 on our 2008 GMC Sierra 2500.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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