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Firestone Air Command I Installation - 2004 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Firestone Air Command I on a 2004 Ford F-250

Today on this 2004 Ford F250 Super Duty, we are going to show you the Firestone Level Command 2, Part Number F2158. First off, this will allow you to control the air pressure levels from the vehicle cab. It operates the bags with a single switch. Now this system is designed to level one pair of air springs, equally on each side. This kit comes with everything you need to control the air springs. The air compressor is actually rated for 130 lbs max. PSI. First up, let's go ahead and find the location for our compressor.

We're back here underneath the truck on the driver's side frame rail in behind basically the transfer case for the four wheel drive system. We'll go ahead and mount to the frame right here. We will go ahead and mark the holes using a small drill bit. This compressor has four mounting holes. One thing to note, now we actually changed our drill bit up to a 3/16, gives a little extra wiggle room to install the hardware. We are going to use the supplied hardware which will be these small Phillips head bolts.

I am just going to simply run them from the outside to the inside. Take the compressor. Go ahead and put it into place. On the outside, we will get a flat washer and then the lock nut. This will repeat on all four contact points.

Now if you have mounted this to a thinner piece of sheet metal instead of the frame, it does come with an extra washer to put behind the head of the bolt as well. We are going to leave this loose so we can maneuver the rest of the hardware in place. Once we have all of our hardware loosely installed, we will go ahead and tighten it down using a Phillips screwdriver and a 3/8 deep well socket. Now when we tighten these down, we just want to make it snug. We don't want to crush them. While we are here, let's go ahead and ground our compressor.

The black wire with the ring terminal will attach to the body right here. It's the hollow section of the body work so it won't go through to the inside. Let's go ahead and work with our wire harness. This is our relay right here. We will go and attach it right next to our ground and make our initial wire connection. I am going to use the same self tapping screw as before. It's a number 10 screw but uses a 5/16 nut driver. Our orange wire on this harness right here will connect up to the red wire on our compressor. We will simply push the two together and I like to add some electrical tape to it as well. Let's go ahead and take a moment and zip tie our wires. I am basically going to fold over my orange and red wire together and I will attach it to the factory wire harness using the supplied zip ties. Cut off our excess, then we need to route these up towards the engine compartment. The red wire especially needs to go to the battery. To help us do that, we're going to drop a pull wire from the top towards the bottom. Basically, we are just going to run these two wires up following the factory wire harness. We will go ahead and zip tie those in a few locations as well. Let's try and make sure we stay away from that is hot and/or moving. What we are using for a pull wire is actually an old piece of airline tubing but this also could be any piece of wire or any other material that you could run down here and hold its shape so you can guide it towards the bottom. Basically, you just want to stay close to the firewall here and away from the engine as far as possible. Here is our piece of airline tubing and the wires you need to bring up. You just wrap them together and run them back up towards the top. Make sure you pull up all of our excess wire. I think we will zip tie to the top here to help keep it secure. Now let's continue to work on our wires. We're just going to go ahead and just separate them out. The red wire is going to run straight to our battery and our white wire eventually goes to the inside. Let's just bundle this up and get it out of the way for now. Our fuse holder here has a short end and that is going to get a rink terminal and attached to the positive side of the battery. We will pull up the cover here. We will attached to this post right here. Let's go ahead and strip the wire back and add a blue ring terminal. Remove this nut here using a 10 millimeter socket. Now ours is a little bit on the small side so we will put a notch in the ring and allow it to stretch out a little bit and put on over the top. Then we will re-install the nut. Let's bundle up our excess wire here. Let's go ahead and turn our attention back to the white wire. We will go ahead and find the location to run it through to the inside. To pull our wire through, we are going to use this grommet right here. I am going to take my screwdriver and slowly poke it through. We will make a sizable cut in it. We need to eventually run a couple pieces of airline tubing through as well. We will get our old airline tubing and bring that white wire in first. We will push a sizable amount through and pull out the rest. Now pull a good chunk of it through to be able to attach our white wire to it and pull it back through as well. Let's go ahead and separate the two. We will pull our white wire. We will take up all the slack. Make sure it is not tangled up in the engine compartment either. We will go ahead and add our airline tubing. We will run that up towards the inside as well. Now before I install it to the compressor, I am going to go ahead and use a tubing cutter to make sure the end is square and I will push it into the fitting here. There is a special fitting that comes in the hardware kit that threads into here and then our airline tubing will go into that. Let's go ahead and install that right now. Just make the sealant that is on our brass fitting fully engaged the threads and we are good to go. Maybe about 1 and 1/2 turns is all you need after it stops when it is finger tight. For airline tubing, we will simply push it into place. Push it in until it stops then push it one more time. Then give it a little tug back to make sure it's secure and that's it. Go ahead and take this airline tubing and basically follow our wiring back up to the inside of the vehicle. Now I didn't zip tie it yet because I will do that after I run my second airline going towards to the air bags. Let's go ahead and attach your two wires together using some more electric tape and we will pull it through. Just pull enough of it through. We will go ahead and untape it. Then we will go ahead and take up all our slack. While you are doing this, make sure the airline does not get kinked up. We will go ahead and route our airline tubing to roughly the center of the dashboard here. A little extra length for working room and I will cut off our excess. Okay, we got our airline ran in. This is going to be one of two lines. To keep these from getting confused with one another, let's go ahead and put this line on to our control panel. This is the line that came from our air compressor that we are going to install into the fitting where it's labeled sup (supply). To make it easier to slide on to, I've got some hot water here. We will stick the airline tubing in there and we will let it warm up for about a minute or so. That will make it just a little more pliable and we can easily it on to the barb fitting. Let's go ahead and push it into place. Once it's warmed up, it makes it relatively easy to slide on. Next, we will go ahead and run our airline from the output from our control back to the airbags on the rear axle. However due to the placement of our air compressor, it makes a little easier to install and service, we actually ran out of airline tubing. We can easily fix that by buying it in a small section. We are going to use Part Number S0938. This is the Firestone 1/4 Inch Airline Tubing that is 18 foot long. That should be more than enough for our purpose here. Let's take our new airline tubing that will go out to the back axle. We will go ahead and connect our airline tubing to our pull wire here. We will tape the two together and pull it through. Once we have our new airline tubing ran through, we will pull out all our excess, leaving enough to go back to our panel. I pulled the mass majority through. Let's go and pull some back. Let's go ahead and get our length finalized. We will go ahead and heat this end up just like we did before and slide it over the top. Let's go ahead and run our airline tubing right back down following the same route the other one came back up. Everyone is going to route their airlines a little bit different but this is how we did ours. Following our first one, we basically followed the wire harness going all the way back past our compressor on the inside edge of the frame, then along the gas tank where we tucked up inside the frame, was able to use some zip ties to go around the frame and guide it on back. Then I ran it over to our airbag on the driver's side. Now we are down here to our airbags here. These we're previously installed. This kit is designed for upgrade from the airbags that had already been installed. In this case, I have already omitted the airlines that are going to the airbags so we are basically kind of start from scratch with plumbing the airlines to the airbags, make things as simple as possible. Cut off our excess and run it straight into the airline fitting. Same thing as the fitting going to the compressor. Push it in until it stops, then push it in one more time. It is always a good idea to have a little bit extra length in there in case you have to redo the fitting because sometimes they don't seat all the way and you just have to cut it off fresh and start over. Now we're going to take a T and install it in here. Then we will take the airline and run it over to the other bag. Let's go ahead and put in our T. Cut that in half and install our T. Push until it stops, then once again. Let's go ahead and take our excess line, run it to the last part of the T and I am going to run this around the back and towards the front again. This way, we can stay away from exhaust as much as possible. We will go ahead and cut it to length. Now when airbags are first installed, they have some heat shielding for the tubing so don't forget to save that. We will re-install on our airline tubing. Then we will go ahead and zip tie and secure our airline tubing back here. We will cut off our excess zip tie. Now we have some more airline tubing left over. That is a good thing because we need to hook this up for our airline input or a snorkel for our pump. Our airline is simply going to push on to this fitting right here for starters. Again, we will go ahead and heat it up in our hot water, then slide it into place. We will go ahead and run the rest of this up, back into our engine compartment. That way, the other end will get its filter and we don't have to worry about any water getting inside the pump. Basically, we are going to run this up into the engine compartment. We are going to follow the same lines we already installed. We will go ahead and pull up our airline for our snorkel. Make sure we take up all our slack. I am just going to leave that alone for now. Let's get our air filter ready. We need to put on the fitting. We will just go ahead and thread it on and maybe snug it up with a 5/8 wrench. Let's set that down for now. We will go ahead and cut off our excess tubing. I think I am going to mount my filter somewhere in this area right here so I will go ahead and cut it to length. We will go ahead and add the airline tubing to the barb fitting. There is this little mount right here to install into a hole. There is actually a factory hole right here that looks like it will fit. Also, this assembly is so light, you can probably just zip tie to something as well and be just as safe. We will go ahead and zip tie our line one more time just to make sure it doesn't get tangled with anything else and we should be good to go. With this in place, our compressor has nice clean, filtered air to go to it and this will increase the life of the compressor. Now let's go ahead and work with the two wires coming out of our gauge here. We have two white wires and two spay connectors. Now it doesn't matter which wire we use but we are going to take the white wire with this connector here from our compressor and we will push it into one of the wires. Again, it does not matter. This other wire has to go to ground. I am going to cut this off and add a small ring terminal to it that comes with the kit and we will attach it to some sheet metal behind the dashboard. Let's go ahead and make things easier to ground it by taking off the panel below the steering wheel. There are just four of these guys we have to undo. Using a flat blade screwdriver, a quarter will work just fine as well. We will sneak our wire from below and up top and we will attach it to sheet metal right here. Now I am going to use a self tapping screw that uses a 1/4 inch nut driver. It does not come with the kit. I will go ahead and install the screw first and then add my wire. With these two wires hooked up, we can now try out our compressor. Our test works out just fine. Next up are two wires for illumination. This is going to require us to extend these wires to get to our power supply and ground. We can use any type of miscellaneous wire we have lying around to extend them. Go ahead and get a couple extra length of wires ready and we will add some butt connectors. Again, you can use any type of connector you feel comfortable with. The kit doesn't come with this extra leads or butt connectors. Let's go ahead and connect our wires together. The light bulb inside here doesn't care which one is ground and which one is power. Let's go ahead and take our white wire. We will make that our ground and add a small ring terminal to it. Then we will connect that to the same ground we installed previously. Now for our brown wire, we are going to run that up in here as well. We will go ahead and attach this to a wire that also lights up our dashboard lights. Now our illumination circuit, we are going use this wire right here that comes out of this blue green connector. It is a brown wire with a white stripe. We are going to use a quick splice connector that does come with this kit. We will snap it onto the wire and then take our new wire, run it up next to it and use some pliers to connect it to. This will come on air time and turn on the headlights. Now we know that works. We don't have to do anything else. We will go ahead and close the lid on our connection point here. Next, we will go ahead and mount our gauge to the bottom of the dash in the center. We are going to mount ours towards the bottom on the flat surface. We will go ahead and use some more of the screws that we used for our ground. This gauge does come with some hardware to do that with, basically a bolt and nut and some flat washers. However, it would be really impossible to get behind here so we use the self tapping screws instead. Now we do have some adjustment up and down so we will situate it the way we want it and tighten the screws down for good. All that remains is we will go ahead and bundle up our wires. We will use some blue material to help hide the colors on the parts that you can see and hide it up behind the dashboard. Now we will go ahead and use some zip ties to help secure our wires now. We kind of ran out of red ones already so it is always a good idea to get extra zip ties when you do electrical. Let's go ahead and put our cover back in place. Last detail is let's go ahead and pull out our old pull wire or our old airline tubing that we used to run our wires. With everything in place, we will go ahead and give it a final check. Lights and I will check out our compressor. Okay. We are on to 30 PSI. Now I will just some soapy water here and we will spray down all our connections and look for bubbles. So far, so good. Let's go back to the airbags and check the T and the airbags. With that, that will finish it for the install of the Firestone Level Command 2, Part Number F2158 on this 2004 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab.

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