bing tracking image

Firestone Level Command Compressor Installation - 2016 Ford F-350

content loading

Customers compare F2097 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Firestone Level Command Compressor on a 2016 Ford F-350


Today on our 2016 Ford F-350, we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Firestone Air Command Heavy Duty Compressor with analog gauge. This is a single function compressor with a maximum air pressure of 150 PSI. Part number is F2097. Here's what our gauge pack is going to look like installed. This is a really nice kit. This is going to show us exactly how much pressure that we have in our air bags. If we need to add some, simply press up on the switch.

When we're done hauling, if we need to decrease the pressure, we can just press down and allow it dissipate out of the system. This is really nice. This means we're not going to have to get out air hoses all of the time. We're not going to have to constantly check the pressures. We've got our gauge right here on our dash.

We're going to be able to adjust this as necessary anytime we need to. By simply turning on our dashboard lights, the way it's configured it's also going to light our gauge so we'll know exactly how much pressure we have in the bags at all times, which can also help us check and make sure we don't have any system failures. Here's what the compressor kit's going to look like when we get it. Of course, we're going to have our heavy duty compressor here. You can see the isolation bushings that are designed to prevent this from transferring any vibration or noise into us. It's going to have some pretty simple connections here, as far as connecting right to the provided relay harness. This is going to provide, not only a fuse to protect our system, but gives us all the connections we need to make our system work. Here's the way we'll control it.

This is going to be our single analogue adjuster and we'll be able to monitor it here, with our analogue gauge. We've got the vent tube and the vent itself that we can mount up out of the way, so as the air comes through that, it's going to filter it so you're going to want to put good clean air into the system and we're not getting any kind of contaminants in there. We've got our air line, and most of the hardware that we're going to need. May need a few extra zip ties. We may get rid of the quick connects and use some butt connectors. We'll just have to see what we're dealing with once we get inside. We're underneath the truck here, just behind the transfer case, just in front of the fuel tank.

We're going to be mounting our compressor right on the inside edge of our frame. You can see we've got a wire loom that runs along the frame rail here. We're going to take our trim panel removal tool or a screw driver and let's just pop that fastener up. Going to move that harness up high enough there. We'll mark our holes, then before we drill we'll zip tie this up out of the way. That way we won't have to deal with it. We'll grab our compressor, fit it up in there where we want to mount it. It looks like it's going to be, pretty good right there. Make sure we get it pretty level. I'm just going to take a scribe and just going to mark that hole location. Mark all four of them. Now we'll drill from the inside out here where we've got our marks, and then we can drill from the outside and come back in with the appropriate size drill bit. We want to work up to a 3/16ths inch bit. We're going to place a flat washer onto each one of our mounting bolts and place them right through to the inside of the frame. Right now, we'll grab our compressor and head to the other side. Get our compressor in place and slide each of the bolts through the brass inserts, inside of our rubber isolators there. Onto each one of those we're going to add another flat washer, and also one of the nylon locking nuts. Now, we'll go ahead and tighten down our hardware. We're only tightening this down enough, to bottom out that brass insert. You'll feel as we tighten it up, it's going to compress and then it's going to stop. That's exactly where we want to go. That's going to maximize the vibration dampening that we're going to get out of the system. What we're going to do is take the black wire with the ring terminal coming from our compressor, and we're going to run it right over here and ground it out. By coming back here to the frame, running your self-tapping screw down through it, we've got a great ground there that takes care of all the grounding that we need for the compressor here. Now, we're going to start preparing our electrical connections ran inside the vehicle and also get our air lines ran inside. One of the first things we're going to connect is coming off of our relay harness. It's going to be an orange wire it says comp, C-O-M-P, plus. It's going to be the positive side of the compressor. We're going to wrap this kind of up and over. We want the relay to within 3 feet of the compressor itself, that's why we have just the short length of orange wire. It's going to go right into the positive side on the compressor there. Just like that. And then we'll wrap that up with some tape to keep it nice and protected. Now, we'll just route it forward. The white wire's going to be going inside of the cab. The red wire's going to be going to our battery, so we'll just let them.inaudible 00:05:39 forward, and when we run out of room on that orange wire that comes from the compressor, that's when we'll secure our relay off. Right in here looks like a nice protected area. Let's go ahead and get our relay secured off there. That's where we're going to have it mounted, just like that, be up there and supported. I think it would be a good idea to wrap the whole thing in electrical tape there just to give yourself a little bit more of a seal. We mounted our relay right here behind the frame, just inside. You'll see I brought my white wire over the top of the frame, over here to the outside. What we're going to do is, pull this grommet that's right here in the floor of the truck, pull that out. We're looking at the bottom of the carpet on the driver-side floor. We'll take both ends of the bulk of the airline that we've got, kind of tape them up there. To this, I am also going to tape on my white wire. I'm going to use that to push in, and our airline tubing should run right underneath our carpeting right up where we need it to work with. It's right through our grommet hole. We'll stick plenty of it up in there, and we'll go up and try to pull it out from behind the carpet. There we'll have our airline and our wiring that will be hooking on the back of our gauge, which will go in that area. That'll give this plenty of slack there and we'll have plenty to work with. We'll just let that hang out while we finish outside the vehicle. We're going to take one of our airlines, it doesn't matter which one. Right now we've got them in just a big loop. We want to measure it out so that we've got a little bit of extra slack back here to where our compressor's at. We'll take our tubing cutter, trim that off nice and cleanly. We'll run it right back here toward our compressor. We've got one of the push to connect fittings. It's got some orange thread sealing on it there. Let's go ahead and tighten that down. We want to be sure that we have good contact with out sealant. We don't want to over tighten, not with the sealant, but with our thread locker there. All right, that should be fine. We'll check it for leaks once we have the system pressurized, and if we leak we can always tighten it up just a touch. We'll take the end of our tubing, slide it firmly into that fitting on our compressor, should be able to pull without it coming out. As you can see we've got a nice soft bend there, so we're not causing too much of a bend where it might kink. We can take the other side of our airline and we're going to start running this back toward the rear of the vehicle. We're going to tee this into the airbags on each side, so you just need to head that direction with it. To get the air from our compressor to both the bag here on the driver side and over to the passenger side, we're going to be using an additional tee, part number F3025-1. We'll just make a cut right there in our line, that tee's going to face that way, and we'll be able to send that air pressure right over to the passenger side. Let's make that nice clean cut. If you don't have a tubing cutter that part number is F9009. Just push it in really firmly and give it a pull. That'll indicate to you that it's connected properly if it doesn't slide out, and then we'll just continue running this on back to the driver side air bag. Now that we've got our airline back here by the driver side bag, we'll go ahead and trim it and add a tee in place here. We'll just go over and do the same thing for our passenger side. Now, we're going to run our extra airline tubing on across the other side of the vehicle, and we'll run that back to the general vicinity of where our air bag's located. Then we'll slide our end right into the tee we put in here in line. All right. Works out fine. Maybe a few more zip ties, kind of keep everything nice and tight, keep it from coming down on us. We'll run our power wire up toward the front. In this application we're going to have a couple of little keepers mounted to the frame here. It's going to work out great for us. We'll be able to just click it right in there. All right, that's going to be our last keeper right there on the frame. Now, what we're going to do is follow right along up, we're going go under those coolant lines, or the refrigerant lines. The main thing we want to avoid over here is going to be our steering stem. It's going to come down, so we want to be sure we get it over this main wiring harness, here, runs just on the outside of those refrigerant lines. As long as we get it behind that we should be fine. Just put our excess wire up in there. I would just reach down in there, hook the wire, bring it on up. We'll make the connection to our battery, but before we do that, let's go ahead and pull the fuse out of there. A little 25 amp fuse. Set it up there. Put the cover up there. That way we won't be making any actual electrical connections until we get everything inside set up. Just like before I am going to use a couple of zip ties to get a good anchor point. I'm going to bring my plug kind of down around the bottom of the coolant reservoir, here, just so we can hide most of our wires, it won't be so prominent. Pull all of our slack out. Bring it over here toward our positive battery post. On the short side of the wire here, we're going to add a ring terminal. Get that crimped on. Pull back that positive terminal cover. We'll use a socket to back the nut off the bolt here. The bolt's made with this stop on it, so the nut's only going to come off so far. What we'll do is then take our ring terminal, cut a little gap out of it and we'll be able to slide it right around that bolt. Tighten that down it'll give us a good connection, and what we'll do is gather up our excess here. We'll use a couple zip ties to keep it nice and neat, and then we just tuck that right down there. Just like that it'll make it look pretty nice and neat, and once we replace our fuse and our cap, they'll just sit there out of the way. We'll be mounting our gauge right here underneath our dashboard. It's going to give us a good solid location. There's a heavy piece of steel down here that lines it, but right in the middle here there's a little Christmas tree here, or like a push fastener, that we need to remove in order for that gauge to sit nice and flush. That'll allow us to pop that out, get it up out of the way. We'll pull it down here for now to give us room to drill into. We don't want to have that wire sitting up there as we're drilling. Now, we'll put our gauge right up there where we want it, and then we'll mark our hole on each side. We'll just take our 3/16ths inch drill bit again and go ahead and make our hole. Let's bring our provided bolts in from the back side there, place them down through both of our holes. We can get our gauge into position, and we'll place on a washer and one of the nuts that we're provided as well. You can see our gauge is mounted nice and firmly right there to that metal. What I'm going to do is just clean this up and trim those bolts off on each side. We've got our mounting location sorted out. We know where we are going to be mounting it, so let's start getting our airlines and our electrical connections made here on the back side. I want to bring my airlines and also my electrical wire.I'm going to bring it right up over, there's a slot that's on the back side, or on the top side of the gas pedal there, so we'll bring those right down and over. That's going to help keep them up out of the way and also make sure our airline keeps a nice, smooth bend to it. The airline that went to the compressor, we marked that with a little bit black tape just so we could identify which was which. If you didn't do that, you can just blow in them and see where the air comes out. We're going to pull the tape back off of that, and that's going to get slid on the fitting that's right behind our gauge itself. You push it all the way down on there like that. The other airline, it's going to go to the small male fitting that we see here behind our switch. All right. We're going to have two grounds that we need to make. We're going to choose one of the black wires, that's going to go to ground, and also one of our white wires. What we'll do is trim the spade connector off the end of the white wire we chose. You strip the end back off that, strip a little bit more off of our black wire there, and we're going to combine both of these just by twisting them together. Add on our ring terminal. We'll take that right up to a good ground location. For our ground, we're going to use a self-tapping screw, and we're going to go right into that same piece of steel we used to mount our gauge. All right, works out good! The other white wire coming from the back of the switch is going to have a spade connector on it. That goes to the end of the wire that came from the compressor. It's going to be the one that's labeled switch. It says switch panel right there. These are going to be connected together. You can see how much extra wire that we've got. What I'm going to do on the white wire coming from the compressor, is I'm going to trim this back and I'm going to put on a new spade connector. See, the same inside there. The new connector will allow that to slide right in there and make that connection. We just won't have so much excess wire under our dashboard. We can also reuse this white wire to make our connection for our illumination for our gauge, so we'll hang onto that. Strip that back, we're going to add that new female spade terminal. Pull, make sure that's connected properly, and that will connect right under that white wire. Just like that. The only thing we've got left to connect to is our illumination wire. Like I said, we're going to recycle the white wire we had. Just strip that back just a little bit more. Strip that white wire back that we just cut out. Let's add a butt connector in between them. We're using just a heat shrink butt connector we've got here in the shop. If you don't have them at home, you can go ahead and order it with your kit, that way you'll have everything you need. We'll use a heat source like a heat gun, or in this case a lighter, and we can just shrink that down. Get a good, firm grab around our wire, there, and we just do it on both sides. Now, we're ready to pop off this side panel cover here. This is just inside of our driver's door. Pops off fairly easy, and if you rotate it all the way around, you should be able to pull it right out. We're going to be connecting into this group of wires that we see here, that's going to give us our illumination, so when we turn on the parking lights and then the headlights, when our dashboard typically lights up, we'll have that light coming through. I'm just going to run it over going above any other wire looms or anything. That way it will give us something to zip tie off too. We can just trim a little bit of that off. That'll give us plenty to make our connection with. Let's figure out which of these wires only has power when our dash lights comes on. We're going to use a test light to do that. Just going to connect that clamp to a good ground source, then we'll go through and start testing. We'll turn the parking lights on. All right! Looks like here, the purple and white wire that's coming out of the back of the switch itself, is going to be the one we'll use. We'll take our quick connect and we're going to slide that over it. We want to be sure it goes in that furthest back slot. Bring your other wire in, line that up right beside it, and then we'll just have to push down on that tab. We'll bring our cover over and clip it closed, just like that. This is going to have live power right there to the end, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to wrap that up with a little bit of tape. You can tuck that out of the way. Let's go ahead and put our side panel back in. We've got our connections made. Let's go ahead and clean everything up here with a little bit of electrical tape. All right, with everything taped off and secure let's put our gauge back in place. We'll pull the red cap out of the end of our compressor. We're going to thread in our air filter connector. We're going to slide our black tubing right over the end of that inlet, and then we'll run it up to a up out of the way location. We can trim off any excess hose we have, we want to leave a little bit. I'm going to slide on our filter. Then, let's use that hole right there in that main support, and we can zip tie it off to there. Now, we'll place our fuse right back in the fuse holder, pop our cover back on, and if we wanted to, you know, we could secure that off right there. I think it's better if we just leave it loose and kind of tuck it, that way we won't have to worry about cutting a zip tie if we ever need to mess with that fuse. Now, we can pressurize the system. Once we have it up to about 70 PSI, let's go back through, spray down all of our fittings to make sure we have a good connection. We're just going to use a soap water solution, be sure we get plenty of it on there. Let it sit for about ten minutes and we can check if it leaks. All right! Here behind our gauge, we look good. We don't appear to have any leaks there. Let's go check out the rest of our fittings. Here you can see, no leaks where the line runs out of the compressor, and our other fittings, you can see here, at the back side are all working well. Now that we've confirmed that our system's working fine and we don't have any leaks. We'll just pull down on the switch. That's going to release our air pressure and we'll take it down to the minimum operating level. All right, we'll keep it right there at 5 PSI for everyday use, and with our compressor we can air it up or down as needed for different type loads. That will complete today's installation of Firestone air command heavy duty compressor with analogue gauge, part number F2097 on our 2016 F350. You can find this and everything else right here at etrailer.com. What's up, man.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Mike H
Video Edited:
Mike H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.