Flex-a-lite Translife Transmission Cooler Installation - 2014 Kia Sorento

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How to Install the Flex-a-lite Translife Transmission Cooler on a 2014 Kia Sorento

Today, on our 2014 Kia Sorento, we'll be installing the Flex-a-lite Translife transmission cooler, part number FLX4116. Now, this transmission cooler will help extend the life of our transmission by reducing transmission temperatures during extreme driving conditions, such as towing a heavy trailer, or if you're driving in mountainous terrain. You can see how nice and tucked up out of the way our transmission cooler is. It doesn't stick out too far. You can barely notice it behind the grill. Here's what our transmission cooler comes with. We have our transmission cooler here.

It has a copper tubular construction for our piping, six pass configuration with aluminium fins to help dissipate the heat. We have a good length of rubber hose here. We have our installation hardware. As you can see, there's a screw-on piece where we have a washer that'll go down through our cooler like this, with the washer on there. We'll have our rubber plate here, and this will space our cooler between our factory radiator or AC condenser.

On the backside of the radiator or AC condenser, we'll have this piece, which screws on. This will hold it all together so it'll be nice and tight. Once you have it on, you can cut off the excess. We have four hose clamps here to secure our rubber hose onto the fittings on our transmission cooler and to the factory transmission cooler lines on our vehicle. Our transmission cooler's 12 inches wide by 7-1/2 inches tall and 3-1/4 of an inch thick. The first thing we need to do underneath our vehicle in order to gain access to our transmission cooler lines is remove this plastic water shield here. There's five 10-millimeter bolts in the front.

We'll go ahead and remove those. There's an additional four in the back. Set that aside. All right, with our skid plate down, you can see our two transmission cooler lines right here going into the factory cooler bolts into the front of the transmission. Now, we need to determine which of these lines is a return line before we mount our cooler, but in order to mount our cooler, we're going to have to remove our front bumper cover, so we'll start doing that first. We'll take these plastic pushpins out, here and here, that hold our fender liner to our bumper cover.

Just unscrew the middle and then pull right out. You can see our fender liner's loose from our bumper cover now, a little bit. Repeat the same process on the other side. There's a screw here, where our front bumper cover meets our fender. We'll remove that. Repeat the same process on the other side. We'll take our radiator cover off here, removing the four pushpins again. Now, we also have four Phillips head screws going across the front. We'll remove those. Now remove our 10-millimeter bolts on both sides of our grill. Now we grab our bumper cover by the fender and pull it towards us gently. Do the same on the other side. With the bumper covers loose from the fenders, we can pull it towards us and down off the vehicle. We'll set it aside so it doesn't get damaged. All right. Now that we've got underneath our vehicle and we found our transmission cooler lines, we need to find out which one of the two is the cold one, which is our return hose going to the transmission. We'll be using that line to use for our new transmission cooler. Now, in order to do this, we're going to be using a technique called brake torquing. What brake torquing is is when you start the engine, have one foot on the brake, put it in drive, and give it a little bit of gas to rev the engine while not letting the car move. This will raise the temperature of the transmission fluid and help us easily determine which line is the return line going to our transmission. You can see we're revving the engine up to about 2,500 RPMs. We'll do this for a few seconds, and then we'll go underneath and find out which line is hot and which one is cold. Now we use an infrared heat gun. We have these available on etrailer.com as part number PTW89722. 140 on the left, 112 on the right. So the right one is our return line. We'll use that as our cooler. There's a plastic air ram here. We're going to remove it. There's two Phillips screws on both side of it, so we'll remove those. The reason we're taking this off is so we can move our radiator slightly forward so we have some more room to work. There's two 10-millimeter bolts on this bracket that holds our radiator in place on both sides of the radiator. We'll remove both of these. You just lift the bracket up off the radiator. This electrical connector here is for our radiator fan. Push on this tab, and it will unclip. Our upper radiator hose clips into this bracket here. Pop the hose out and remove this 10-millimeter bolt that holds the bracket to our radiator fan. Set that aside. Okay. There's two 10-millimeter bolts that hold our radiator fan to our radiator. We'll remove those. We'll remove these three screws here on the top. That will lift off. Now we'll take our radiator fan out. We'll lift up on the fan. Okay. I have it unhooked on the bottom. Just kind of pull it out of the way. Now we have room to work behind it so we can attach our hardware for our transmission cooler, because we'll go through our radiator here and through our AC condenser. We needed to have it out of the way so we could trim our hardware and attach everything. Now we'll take our nylon screw here and our flat washer. We'll install it like that. We'll do that for all four of our nylon screws. Now we'll take one of our nylon screws, position it so you can see how far down and how far across we're going to go for our washer to stay across the fins. It's right about there, and we'll just poke it through the fins. We'll do the same at all four corners. We'll put our spacers on our nylon screws here. We'll just poke it through our condenser and through our radiator, making sure we don't hit any of the rows. We just go through the fins. Sometimes it's helpful to have a flashlight shining down so you can see. We may have to adjust the height of them a couple times to make sure they go through straight. Okay. With it sitting flush up against our AC condenser, we can install our clips on the backside. We'll just push these on down, and we'll tighten them up like a screw. We'll repeat the same process on the other three. Now that we have all four of these tightened, we can trim off the excess just a pair of side cutters. Now we'll reinstall our radiator fan. We'll lift up on it until it goes into the tabs that's secured on the bottom. Once it's back in place, we can resecure the two bolts that hold the fan to our radiator. We'll put our bracket back that holds our upper radiator hose in place. We'll raise our hose back up and set it into the bracket and plug our fan back in. Now we've got our fan plugged back in. We'll resecure the tabs from the wiring harness. Okay. With our fan plugged back in, we can now resecure our radiator to the chassis of the vehicle using our two brackets. Reinstall the four bolts. Now our radiator is nicely and securely mounted again. We'll reinstall our air deflectors. We'll clip these guys back in place. We'll reinstall the three screws. This one has four screws, two on both sides. Now we'll place one end of our hose onto a fitting on our transmission cooler. It doesn't matter which one. You might need a little lubricant to help it slide on. Just slide a hose clamp onto the other end of the hose, and we'll clamp our hose to our new transmission cooler. Now we'll route the other end of our hose behind our bumper support here and the side of our radiator here. Return hose off our factory transmission cooler, loosen the clamp up. With the clamp off, you should be able to grab the hose now and twist it off. I'll measure off how much hose we're going to need to make our connection. Right about here will be good, so we'll try to cut this as square as possible. Got our hose clamp on there, and we'll place our new hose onto the factory cooler. Now that our hose is on all the way, we'll tighten down our hose clamp. Now we've got our second barb here lubricated a little bit for us to slide our new hose on, just so it goes on a little bit easier for us. We'll be using some 11/32-diameter hose. We have this available for purchase on our website if you need to purchase some additional hose. In our case, we need to use a little bit more than what came with the kit. Slide our clamp on, and we'll tighten our clamp on down. Okay. That's secure. We can continue railing our hose, following the path of our other hose. Now we'll slide a hose clamp onto our factory transmission cooler hose and insert this fitting. We have these available on our website. They're a quick connect fitting that you can use to connect two hoses together, and that's what we need in this situation. We'll slide it onto our hose, and then we'll tighten our hose clamp on down. Okay. With that snugged down, I'm going to give it a tug and make sure it won't come out. It's not. We'll measure off how much hose we need. All right. Right about here should be good. Just cut off the excess. We'll slide our other hose from our transmission cooler that we added onto this fitting that's on there. We'll secure with a hose clamp. I'm going to snug it down with my hand. Okay. With that done, we can now lower our vehicle down, start our engine, and check for leaks. Okay. Now that we've made all of our connections and started our engine, we verified that there was no leaks at any of our connections, the two connections that we made here at the transmission into the factory line or our new hoses that we added to the cooler that we just installed. All right. Now that we've verified that there's no leaks, we can go ahead and reinstall our front bumper cover. We'll reinstall our two 10-millimeter bolts here at the top. Tighten those guys on down. Install our four pushpins at the top and the four screws in the front. I'll replace our two screws on the side. We'll repeat the same process on the other side. Now we'll reinstall our clips for our wheel liner to our fascia. Do the same on the other side. We can reinstall our skid plate now. Got a couple started on the back and a couple started on the front. That completes our installation of the Flex-a-lite Translife transmission cooler, part number FLX4116, on our 2014 Kia Sorento.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Gary M.

I have a 2011sorento 2.4 do you have the system for my vehicle I have 130,000 on it and Im concerned about radiator leaking into my transmission thank you

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

Transmission coolers are universal fits so while we haven't test fit one directly on a 2011 Kia Sorento, you basically just need to make sure that there is enough room in your engine compartment to fit a transmission cooler and you'll be good to go. The Derale Series 8000 # D13502 is a very popular option that we have which measures 11" wide x 7-1/4" tall x 7/8" deep.