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Furrion Chill Replacement RV Air Conditioner Installation - 2010 Fleetwood Discovery Motorhome

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How to Install the Furrion Chill Replacement RV Air Conditioner on a 2010 Fleetwood Discovery Motor

Hi there RV and trailer owners. Today, we're going to be taking a look at Furrion's replacement rooftop unit with Coleman adapter. And this will allow you to take your old Coleman unit that's on your roof. Maybe you've got a Coleman Mach. You can get that broken old worn down mock unit off, slap up this new Furrion unit and plug it directly into your existing wiring. So you don't have to run new modules, replaced thermostats and do all that extra work.

So if you follow along with us, we're going to show you how to get this installed. And we'll be installing this on our 2010 Fleetwood Discovery motor home today. And this is what our rooftop Furrion units look like when they're installed. They are available in either black or white. We're showing off the white today, but if the black is going to better match your motor home, then that's definitely a great option.

They're also available in a couple of capacities. You can either get the 14 and a half thousand BTU unit or the 15 and a half thousand BTU unit. We're installing the 14 and a half today. And for most of your motor homes and trailers, a single or a dual setup of the 14 and a half will work fine. But if you've got larger motor homes a little bit larger, or if you have poor insulation in your motor home, you may want to opt for the 15 and a half thousand units to give you that extra little cooling pump.

These Furrion units come with start capacitors installed. And that's really nice for if you're at a camp site that has potentially fully taxed shore power under certain events, the shore power may not be enough to kick over some compressors. So with the start capacitor in here, that'll allow it to have a capacitor store some charge. So in the event that the shore power is insufficient, that storage charge can be used to keep the compressor over and get it started. And then once your compressor starts, the amperage requirements drop significantly.

So then it can keep running and work out just fine. And this is going to be great for all those areas that you're going to want to camp at and even great for remote locations. If you've got a nice solar setup on here, and it is going to take a pretty robust solar system to run your AC, but it starts faster and will definitely help out there as well. And while we do offer a whole line of Furrion products, which includes our, the thermostats and you control modules to operate them. If you have properly working existing thermostats that are Coleman units, you can save a whole lot of time and actually save a lot of money by using your old modules in your old thermostat. The adaptor cable that comes included with this kit here will allow you to take this rooftop unit and set it in place, simply plug into your existing modules. And it's ready to basically up and run at that point. You can just hook up a couple of wires, maybe for moving your module around from your old unit, because sometimes they are mounted inside your old unit. You might have to mount it down below in your roof, but really that's a whole lot easier than having to run additional wires. This particular motor home has an analog thermostat. So if you're going to be using an analog thermostat, then this adapter cable simplifies that greatly. The Furrion systems use digital thermostats, which would requires in some instances on these older motor homes to run additional wires. And that can really be a big hassle to get those wires run through the roof. So this is really probably the best option for these older motor homes like this. To really simplify it and keep you from having to spend a lot of extra money to make all this updated to digital when it's not really necessary. We'll begin our installation by removing our old components. So we're going to get our distribution box down here and that'll give us access inside so we can get that rooftop unit out of the way. Our old distribution box here is going to have some screws that hold it in. Looks like at the four corners. That's pretty common. So we're just going to use our Phillips bit here to remove these. We're just going to zip these out. And as you start to remove those, you probably want to keep some pressure in the middle. Because it will kind of just want to fall down after you take out a couple of screws there. The wood in your roof is not, it's not the most sturdy. So a single screw often is not going to be enough to hold up this plate. We've got all those removed. We'll just pull this down and set it aside. After removing that our customer's got a plate here. This plate's normally not in this location. This is actually where the air comes out from your rooftop air conditioning system. So he's blocked off the output here. Now it doesn't mean he's completely blocked it off because the roof has a channel inside of it that allows that cold air to go down the channel and come out your roof vent. So he's just blocked off the distribution box output. So we need to get this out of the way though, so we can get the unit out of there. So we're going to zip out all these screws and get this out of here. This also is not going to go back up because it's not going to be compatible with our Furrion distribution box. And we'll just pull it down and set it aside. Here we can now have access to our the bolts that hold our unit up and you can already see these two, but the ones over here we're covered up by that plate. So that's why we had to get that out of the way. We'll just pull some of that foam back out of the way to reveal the head of each of those bolts. And then we're going to remove those using an eight millimeter socket. And now that we've got all of our bolts removed here at this point, we're ready to head up on the roof to start removing it. Normally on a lot of the other air conditioning systems, you can access your wiring down here and get that disconnected. But on the, this particular unit, it's way up in there. My hand's not going to reach up in there. I'm not going to really be able to see what I'm doing. So it'll be easier for us to just lift this unit up on the top, tip it over on the side and access the wiring there. So with that being said, we're going to be heading up on the roof next. But one of the things we are going to make sure we do is we're going to turn off our, make sure we don't have any power to our trailer. Cause this is going to be this wire right here. That's our 120 volt wiring and we want to be safe. So we're going to unplug from shore power. We're going to turn off our disconnects to make sure we don't have any live inverters or anything. And then we'll head up to the roof after that. So here we are up on top of the roof of the motor home and there's our old unit here. We've got it all loose underneath. We've got an assistant up here as well, because these things are pretty bulky and heavy. It is possible to do it by yourself, but it's a whole lot safer to have an assistant help you out. Since we got it loose well first thing we want to do is kind of lift it up. We're going to rock it to the side and we're gonna do it kind of slowly to check, to make sure that it's not going to grab the roof. And it looks like there's, it's not sticking, but you do want to check for that because sometimes the membrane can stick to it and we don't want to tear the membrane. So here we can see we've got wiring on it that we'll need to still take loose here. This is our control module inside of here that all these wires are coming out of. So we're going to disconnect our wires from there. There's a connector in here that we'll disconnect. So I just pulled it out of there because there is some excess length for the wire here. We'll just pull both the tabs back and then pull those connectors apart to separate them. We're also going to be removing this whole module out from inside of here. So there's another connector right here that's connecting our rooftop unit to the module. So we're going to disconnect this one as well. It's got the same style of connector just plugs into the module. So now that we've got those disconnected, this is our 120 volt and we made sure we unplugged our motor home and all that good stuff. So that way there's nothing live here. So to get this out, it's easier to remove the module first. So we're just taking the wing nuts off. That's located on each side of the module. Sometimes it can be a little stiff. So you might need a pair of pliers or something to assist you with getting them off of there. So now we've got that other stud loose there, our module, will just slide right out of there. We do have a couple of wires that we're just stuck in there, say because none of those should be connected to anything anymore. So it was probably just stuck on like the sticky tape that they've got in there. So here's our module. The holes here are what slid over our studs. You got one on each side and then you can see one of the studs kind of down here at the bottom. And then there is one here at the top as well. They're kind of the modules so long they're way off to the side. You have to reach kind of in and around to the side to access those. But once you get those wingnuts off, that'll slide off of there. And then we can get this rooftop unit out of the way. And we can actually just drop this module down inside. I can reach it from down below. So I'm just going to leave it up here on top and then I'll reach up and pull it down. You can't reach it from down below, then you might want to drop it down to an assistant down there. So now we will get this old unit off of here. We're going to take our new unit. We're going to get it set into place here on the roof. So we got that old unit down. We've got new unit up here, before we set it into place over the opening here. You just want to kind of clean off any dirt or debris. Sometimes there are sealants here that you may want to clean off as well. Usually though it's just the foam gasket. So it's just dirt and debris you want to get out of the way there. Now we'll take our new one and we're just going to set it in place. Lining up our foam gasket on the bottom of the unit. You can see that sticking out a little bit right here with our opening. So with our assistant, we're just going to lift it up. Be careful not to step into the hole there. And then we're going to drop the gasket right down on the corners. I kind of like to use my fingers to feel where those corners are to get that lined up. We're just going to check now kind of looking all the way around to make sure our gaskets centered and we'll just kind of slightly move it and adjust it as necessary. Until we are centered over the hole. So we're now back down again, inside the motor home here. This is the module that we pass down. This is the wiring hanging from inside the unit that we sat on the roof, and this is the cable that we had disconnected from the module here. So that way we can get it kind of pulled up to get everything out of the way. So at this point now, one of the things I did first is I took some aluminum tape here and we kind of coated the whole inside here. It already had a lot of it already coated, but it was kind of had some tears and some things like that. And we want to get as good of a sealing as possible to ensure that we're directing the air where we want it to, you know, here in our cabin. We did leave the area open here so that when the air comes out the outlet here, it'll force it through the roof ducts and come out the roof, going back towards there. So now that we get that taped up. The next thing to do would be to get the module here, mounted up, and this is going to fit right up in here. And we're going to be mounting it right to the surface. We're gonna be putting it on this side here because you can see we've got our duct here that needs to go towards the rear. There was no duct here going towards the front. So that's why we're going to mount it there. So here's the panel that we're going to be mounting it to right here. You can see already previously had some components that had been drilled into it there. It does fit right up in here and we're just going to be using some self-tapping screws to mount it. You can get those at your local hardware store and we can see there that it does fit up in there. Now we do want to give ourselves a little bit of room. The bottom of our roof here when our distribution box is mounted up, it's going to kind of squeeze up into the roof. So it's going to have some upward force. So we want to make sure we got clearance room there between our module and that distribution box. And when we put the, like the mounting ring, it's a metal ring that your distribution box mounts to. That's going to have screws that's going to go through it, to hold the distribution box of that mounting ring. And we want to make sure we've got clearance as well for the threads of the end of that bolt to pass on through without hitting our modules. So this is a pretty good, pretty good about a space there you could probably use like, your thumb or something like that to give you a decent enough space. So we're going to just hold it up there now. And what I kind of like to do when I'm mountain these up here is marking the area first. So I'm just gonna take my old self tapper. I'm gonna put it up here and I'm just going to kind of scratch the tape we put on here. And now I know where that needs to go. That way I ain't gotta hold this while I'm trying to do all this. So we've got it marked here. We're gonna grab an eight millimeter socket for our self tapping screw we're going to be using. Line it up with the location we marked and run it into place. That's it. We just need to run it in there. We'll then back it out, that way, we've started a location for the mounting of our module. We'll put our module back up into position there. Make sure we don't pinch any of our wires when we're doing this. Line, that hole up. And the reason I like to do this is you can usually just take the screw and kind of poke that self-tapping end in there. It'll hold it there for you. And then we can run this down and that'll hold our module in place, making it easier for us to get our other self-tapping screw screwed in. And we've got that mounted up there now. We can see here that our wiring actually can stay attached to our module. We're just gonna poke that up right up into here. Get that out of the way. And now we can start plugging things together here. So we're going to take the connector here from our new unit that we sat down on the roof. We'll then grab the adaptor cable that comes with our kit here. And you can see that this end here with the six cables is going to line up with the six cable plug from our new unit that we put on the roof. We'll plug that in there. And then this will plug in to the location here on our module. And we can tuck that wiring up there as well. So next we can plug in the remaining connector that we've got over here. That's connects to all these modules, all of these connections here on your module. Move our freeze sensor out of the way, cause it's an additional connection we'll have to make. And I'm going to route these around these wires here, just to help keep things a little bit cleaner on the inside. And we'll plug it into our connector over here that we had disconnected it from. It's got a lineup the plug. You can only plug it in one way. Cause some are square, some are round. Well they aren't really square. They're more like a kinda like an igloo shape. And then these, we can store up in here and now we'll put our freeze sensor in place and our freeze sensor here. This is this single white cable right here. The end of it here is a little probe and this probe needs to detect the temperature of the evaporator coil above. It'll ensure that the coil doesn't freeze up. If it freezes up, you're going to have a restriction of airflow. You're going to lose your cooling properties that your system's providing. So we want to make sure that it doesn't happen because that can also cause moisture and stuff to start to drip. Once it starts to melt after you go to thaw it out. So since the sensor here is just going to poke right in between the fins and the evaporator coil. We don't want to poke it in very far. It just needs to be able to touch it, to get contact with it. And if we kinda look up, you'll notice that that on the fins that are going vertical, you'll see, there are tubes that go horizontally. We want to try to position this between those tubes because we don't want to damage and cause a leak in our system. So here's the fins I'm talking about. This is the opening here, right by our module. There's the fins that go vertical and you can kind of see the cross tubes that it's like the shiny tube that's running across there. So that's what we're talking about. I'm going to go ahead and poke this in there now. My hands going to be in the way. So I'm going to poke it in there and you'll be able to see where we put it after we get it in there. And so here you can see it here. I just pushed it in between the fins. I didn't push it in very far. I bet you, it's probably only going in those fins, maybe between an eighth and a quarter inch. So it's just in there enough to hold the sensor in place to where it's not going to fall out of it. It's really all we need. Just get that contact to it. And now we're ready to start putting our distribution box up. So now that we've got our sensor on there, we actually have our module and everything all plugged in. Our rooftop units in there. Really at this point, we could fire it up and test it out. It's not going to work as efficiently as it will, once we get everything fully installed because our fans right here, this is the outlet where it blows the air out into your cab or into your roof vents. And this is the inlet on this side here. So the fan will actually draw the air up across your evaporator coil to cool it down, and then push it back out. We're going to have a lot of circulation right here now. So it's going to seem like it's not cooling very well, but you will definitely be able to feel, there is cold air there. And then once we get all our duct work kind of finished here, it's going to be much more efficient. Cause we'll have those two pieces separated. Those two sides of our system. Now just in the matter of safety before we fire it up, we are just going to loosely install the bolts under the clamp here, just in case the unit kind of vibrates a little bit. It's not going to shift the roof of your motor homes can sometimes be quite domed. So the motor vibrating, just a little bit, might cause it to shimmy. So we're just going to set the plate up in here for now. We're not doing anything crazy with it. Just kind of getting it set up in here. And then we're just going to take our bolt, run it up through the opening and thread it into the threaded hole in the bottom of our unit. We'll then just repeat this for the three remaining holes and we don't even need to really get them that tight. I'm just going to tighten it down until it touches and that's going to be good enough. And there we go. So I went ahead and plugged our motor home back into shore power and I turned back on our disconnect, switches and everything. So we're powered up in here. I took the thermostat and set the setting to 60 degrees and put it on cool mode. And our unit has kicked on here. So we can see that we are fully operational system here as far as our wiring and everything is good. So we can move on to getting our distribution box and getting our unit fully torqued down onto our roof. So cool. All our tests pass. We're ready to go back now and finish tightening down these bolts. So I'm just going to run them down with the gun a little bit, kind of going back and forth, doing it evenly. And once they get that, you don't see any more movement. It's really with it. When you're pulling up, we're going to then switch to our torque wrench because this does have a torque specs. You'll find it in your instructions. It is really low. So you want to have, make sure you got an inch pound torque wrench to be able to do this. You can get torque wrenches here at etrailer. 3/8 inch drive is going to make a great torque wrench to complete this installation. And when doing this we are going to be rotating back and forth between each one. All right, with our bolts torque down. I'm just going to make sure that our units clamped on top of the roof. So it's not going anywhere. And that gasket that we kind of looked at earlier, that's on the bottom of our compressor up there. That's going to squish it down and collapse it to the appropriate amount. That's going to ensure that it seals everything up. It keeps out moisture and also it helps to insulate and keeps out, keeps the cooler air that we need in here. But the next thing we need to focus on now is separating the inlet, which is going to draw in air through here and the outlet and this guy's going to blow the air out through there. So we've got a gap here and that gap is going to cause poor operation of our unit if we have a gap there. So to seal that up, we're going to take pieces that come with our distribution box here from Furrion. Now another thing we didn't really talk about was some the adapter brackets that come in our kit with our wiring. If you want to reuse your old distribution bracket that you took down, there are adapters that come with it so you can do so. Our customer didn't want to reuse his old ones. He wanted something that looked nice and new to kind of match his new unit. But here's those adapters. If you we're curious about those. So instead of using the long bolts that came with the Furrion distribution box. If you wanted to use the old one, this would just go up in place. You'd use the bolts that come with your kit here, you thread up into the unit. And then this would give you a location here to thread your distribution box. Your previous one, the one you took down into one of these locations here. You'll get four of these for one, for each corner. And you also get some varying like bolts to ensure that you're able to get those installed. So we got that tape pulled off of there now. Since we're using our new box, we need to put this piece up here and this is our sealing plate. This comes with your distribution box from Furrion. That's why I kind of like also replacing the distribution box rather than using the old one. The old one might be set up perfectly to where you can pull it down and put it back up without having to make any changes. But sometimes you need additional components in order to properly get it all sealed up. So that's where it's kind of nice just having this all one solution here from Furrion with this distribution box, giving us everything we need. Am I just going to poke that around, seal it up onto the tape and we're making sure that we're pressing it up into that foam there on top. Now that we've got that up there, we have an additional layer to seal it up even further. So I'm going to take this and just kind of set it up in here. Cause I want to get an idea of where I need to cut it to trim off the excess. And it's about right here. So I just fold it over and then just kind of run it down and bend it like that to give me a crease to follow. And then I'll just use my scissors here to trim that. It's just a quick test fit to make sure we've got a good trim amount. And that looks pretty good. This way we can kind of squish it up a little bit. So it'll work out nicely. We'll pull our adhesive backing off now. And then we'll put this into place. I kinda like to like fold it in half, kind of like that, where we can get it pressed up nice and tight, get ourselves kind of in the middle there. And that's going to do a really good job of ensuring that our inlet and outlet sides are sealed off from one another. And you can even take some aluminum tape and further seal it up. If you think you need it as necessary because this looks pretty good with, with this foam here, this is really going to squish down nice and give us a good sealing between the two sections there. So here's our distribution panel. And you do want to keep in mind that if you're buying the adapter kit where it's just the adapter kit or the adapter kit with the rooftop unit, that the distribution panel doesn't come with it because the adapter kit comes with those bracketry to allow you to use your old distribution box. But our customer wanted this new one here. So to get this one mounted up, we're gonna pull our cover off right here. You can easily tell this one here it says this way front on this side, that's the side that you want to pull from. That's got a little ear there. It'll pull off that way and then you'll slide it off the other way to get that off of there. That'll reveal our filters here. So we're just gonna go ahead and take these filters out. And that's where our screw holes are. So you're gonna want to take this side off as well, and now we can get this mounted up. Again it's labeled this way towards the front that makes getting this mounted up extremely easy. We'll now take the distribution box here. We're going to line it up on the bottom of our system here. And then we're going to take the smaller screws that come with our kit. I'm putting it on the end of my bit on my little screw gun here. We'll then bring it up. We're going to put it through one of those openings and thread it into that metal bracket that we had used to clamp our unit onto the roof. When we're just going to repeat this for the four remaining holes. We'll now take our filters and put those back into place. The little ears here, we'll line up with little notches up in there. Line it up with those notches and then click it back up in there. Same thing with the other side. And then we'll just put our panel back up. And whether you're using a new Furrion one or your original one, once you've got that all mounted up, really at this point, we're just back to testing it out once again, make sure we've got good air flow out of our vents. And if everything seems good there, our installation is complete. And that completes our look at Furrion's replacement rooftop unit with Coleman adapter cable..

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