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Furrion Chill Replacement RV Air Conditioner Installation - 2012 Jayco Melbourne Motorhome

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How to Install the Furrion Chill Replacement RV Air Conditioner on a 2012 Jayco Melbourne Motorhome

Ryan: Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2012 Jayco Melbourne Motorhome, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Furrion Chill replacement air conditioner for motorhomes with a Coleman setup.So right off the bat, this unit that we have here today has 14,500 BTUs. But if you have a larger camper and maybe want some additional cooling power, there's a 15,500 BTU unit available as well.Now, before we get into too many features, I just wanted to show you guys what our old unit looked like up here on top of our motorhome. Now, the reason we're replacing this is because it doesn't work at all. It no longer blows cool air or even turns on. And honestly, our customer really wasn't too upset about it.

And that's because she said this was extremely noisy so it was pretty annoying when you we're inside of the camper. And it just didn't cool that great. So it really wasn't that effective at keeping you cool on those hot summer days.Here's what our new Furrion unit looks like. And as you can see right away, compared to the old one, it has a much more modern appearance. It's even more compact.

You can see an outline where our old unit sat. It's going to take up a little less space and cut through the wind a little bit better.Now, one of the really big questions that we get asked in regards to these AC units, is if they're going to be really noisy or not. I know a lot of people probably don't think about the noise it makes on the outside of the camper as much as you would be concerned on how noisy it is on the inside, but I think it's still important to point that out. So we have our unit running. I'm sitting right behind it where all the noise is coming from, and it's really quiet.

I don't have to raise my voice at all or anything like that. So pretty cool. Whenever you're hanging outside of the camper, barbecuing, trying to have a conversation, you're not going to have your unit in the background howling and forcing you to raise your voice and talk over that unit. So whenever you're outside, down on the ground, a few feet away from the camper, I honestly don't even think you would notice this running at all.So now that we talked about the unit itself up top here, why don't we go down inside the motorhome and check it out down there.So here inside of the camper, I am right underneath our unit and we have it on full blast. Now don't get me wrong, you can hear it, but you really don't hear the motor or the unit itself running.

It's more along the lines of you just hear that air being moved. It blows extremely hard and really does a great job of moving a lot of air. So we have every vent in the camper opened up right now and you can see this piece of paper, no problem, getting blown around by this. So you don't really have to raise your voice or anything like that and it shouldn't really bother you.Now with that being said, since this does do a great job of cooling and moving all that air, I feel like once you get the atmosphere inside here nice and comfortable, you can simply click your fan speed down to low. It will still move a good amount of air and quiet it down even more. And if you do move just a few feet away from the unit, say, if you're just kind of hanging out, chit-chatting, even with it on full blast, to me, it's not loud enough to really notice or become annoying.So when it comes to replacing or even upgrading parts for your motorhome, sometimes it can get a little bit confusing because there's so many different options available and you're not sure what is going to work with this or that. Well, this unit here is specifically designed to replace the Coleman-Mach air units. And it's really straightforward. It's a direct replacement. So if you got that Coleman-Mach air, you know this is going to bolt-up with no issues at all. We installed it, it went together very easily. It comes with the conversion brackets that you need. That'll set everything at the right height. It comes with the adapter plugs so you don't have to hardwire anything. It simply just plugs into your existing connector. And that's really all there is to it. So to me, it really gave me that peace of mind, knowing that you can get the unit with confidence, knowing that it's going to work with your Coleman-Mach air existing setup.Another thing a lot of people wonder too, is how much power is this going to take So while this 14,500 BTU unit is running, it's going to draw a 14.6 amps. The larger 15,500 BTU unit is going to draw a little more. It's going to draw 15.4 amps. So not much of a big difference there. Whenever you're plugged in, you shouldn't have any issues at all. We got our camper plugged in today, we've got our lights on, had no problem getting this kicked on and using any other appliances. So that really shouldn't be an issue with either AC unit.And if you have a generator, there's a lot of different variables there. It's really just going to depend on the size of your generator, what else you have running in your camper and things of that nature. And I will say, whenever these units first turn on, that's when they draw a lot of amps. It takes a lot more power to kick them over. And a lot of times it can happen when that big appliance turns on. Or the big AC unit in our case, other things can get affected. So your lights may dim or something like that.What's pretty cool though, these actually have a more or less like a capacitor built in which stores energy and it uses that energy during startup. So because of that, you're not going to get those power draws that you otherwise may get with other different types of AC units. So pretty cool there. It stores that energy and helps us this thing kick on so you're not affecting anything else in your camper.Now, something I want to point out is that this unit isn't just sold as a direct replacement. What I mean by that is, you can get this unit separately. So say for example, a lot of the people that camp out west in the desert where it's really hot, a lot of people will actually have two AC units to really combat that heat and keep it nice and cool inside. And you can absolutely use this unit to do that as well. But something you just have to think about, depending on your motorhome or what setup you're trying to do, you may have to get other components. You might have to get different wiring or a dual zone thermostat. So just something I wanted to point out and I thought was worth mentioning.So what we have done just as an experiment, is actually, we have a decibel meter here. As you can see, I'm talking, it's about 60, 65 decibels. It kind of comes up and says, that's about the sound of a normal conversation. And what we can do now with the AC not running and I was just talking is flip it on. So we'll turn that AC on and see how much noise it actually puts out. We'll run it into that cool position. And it's pretty-much set at, once I stop talking, it's pretty-much set at 63. So, a normal conversation. So I'll quit talking and let it pick up that noise. Now this is in the low setting. So what we'll do now is flip it on to the full blast and see if it increases. So it went up a little bit to about 68, 69 once I quit talking. And that's about the sound of traffic. I think that's a little exaggerated, honestly, because there's really not that much of a sound difference, but just a little experiment we wanted to run and see how it turned out.So whether we had the unit on low or full blast, that decimal meter said we we're pretty-much in the sixties, regardless of that. So the sound it puts out is pretty-much going to be you're right on par with a normal conversation that you're having.So at the end of the day, a unit you really can't go wrong with. It really did impress me on how fast it cooled the camper down and how cold the air actually comes out. It's really impressive. Now, as far as the installation goes, it's really not that bad at all. It really don't take a whole lot of time and that's because it is designed to be a replacement. So everything's really straightforward and isn't really all that intimidating once you get up there and see what's going on. But, speaking of installation, let's go ahead and hook it up together now.So to begin our installation, we are going to need to remove our old unit, so that requires us to be inside of our motorhome. Now keep in mind, every motorhome is going to be set up a little bit different, but overall, this is going to be the general approach.So usually you're going to have some type of plastic cover that you're going to have to take off. In our case, we do have one little quarter-turn screw there. Going to lower this screen here. And then to get the rest of the cover off, it looks like we're going to have a Phillips head screw in each corner and maybe one here in the middle, so we'll go ahead and pull those out. With those removed, we should be able to grab our trim piece and just work it off. So with this removed, we'll just set it off to the side for now.Now I will say, before we go any further, definitely a good idea to make sure you don't have any power to your unit, so we'll make sure everything's disconnected. That way we don't have any accidents. With that being said, now what we can do is remove these four bolts. That'll allow this trim piece to come down and we can carry on from there. So in our case these are 10 millimeters. We'll just go ahead and pull them out. Take that bolt out, then we can just lower this trim ring.Now what we're going to need to do is unplug our connector from our current AC unit to our power supply box here. So since it's located up top it's a little tricky to get to, so to make life easier I'm just going to remove these two Phillips head screws. That should lower the supply box and give us a little more room to work. If you look, here is our main plug from our existing AC unit. You can disconnect that by simply pushing the two tabs and pulling it out. So if your unit has a divider here, anything that's attached to the existing unit, you're going to want to take that off. So in our case, this one was just taped up there. So peel that tape off and we'll set this off to the side.All right. So if you look right here, this metal, this is actually the bottom of our existing AC unit. And if you just push up on it, you can tell that it's free, so there's nothing holding it in place. However, what I noticed is, we do have a wire that's connected to that unit that drops down to our main supply box. So not a huge deal. We're just going to pull off these spade terminals. Now, what I did is just marked one with a black marker here, just in case, if you need to come back to it or anything like that, I'd rather have it marked and not need it than the other way around. These just pop off. Now we can go up top and get our unit removed.So now I'm here up top, we can grab our existing unit and just start sliding it off to the side. And we'll get it in position. Get a couple of friends maybe to come up here and help me lower this down to the ground, because these are relatively heavy so I would suggest having a buddy help you out.So I want ahead and I had a friend help me remove our old unit off the top of our motorhome and bring the new one up. So pretty straight forward. You're just going to line itself to the existing hole on your roof. So if I flip this over, give you an idea. You can see that we're going to have a square opening with some foam padding there. You're just going to want to line that foam padding up around the edges of your hole there. So, it don't have to be perfect just yet because we can adjust it when we get inside, but the closer the better. And just carefully set that on there. And then we can move inside of our motorhome to get everything secured.Now we're back inside of the motorhome and you can see that our AC unit is really close. If you look at each corner, you're going to see a threaded hole. And what we're going to do is take these brackets and connect them to those threaded holes. So the way these work, is we're going to take the short bolt right through that hole in the bracket. This can be a little tricky. Don't have a ton of room. And we'll get that going by hand. Once we have it started. So if you're having a little trouble getting it started, you may have to shift our unit one way or another to give us a little more room. That being said, once we get it started, we're just going to run it down. We're not going to get it completely tight right now. We're just going to get it so it sits flush. And once we have all four in, then we can come back and actually snug them down. The socket that I'm using is a three eighths. Once I have this one in, I'm going to repeat this same process for the other three corners.So with our four angles in what you can is grab them and actually use them to your advantage to square up the unit. So these will fit relatively close to flush here in each corner and that'll make sure our units on nice and straight. And once we have it like that, then we can just come back and snug down our bolts completely.So what we can do now is plug our AC unit into our control panel. Now, depending on your existing one, you may have a different shaped plug, like in our case. So we actually have an adapter that'll simply just plug into this end. It can only go one way so you can't really mess it up. It just plugs right in. And this end will just snap into our power unit there. So now that we have that plugged in, it turns out actually that the two little wires I removed right there weren't actually connected physically to our old unit. It turns out that these we're actually going to a temperature probe, so I'm just going to plug those back in as well.Now that we have everything plugged in, we can just re-secure our power supply the opposite way that we removed it. Now we can just grab our little center panel that we pulled out and re-install it. At this point we can take our metal trim ring and these longer bolts and re-secure it. These are just going to go through that hole and thread into those angle brackets that we put on. So what I like to do is get all four of them started hand-tight. That way we know everything's centered and where we want it. And once we have it like that, then we can come back and snug them all down. Probably not a bad idea either to crisscross these so you pull the unit down evenly. So once I get this on a little snug, I'll move over to the opposite corner and work in that type of pattern. You want to make sure to tighten your bolts down enough to pull the AC unit down on top evenly and compress that foam seal a little bit. That way you don't have to worry about any leaks or anything like that. Once we have that done, we can take our cover and simply re-install it. So I like to just get all four screws going hand-tight, and then we can just snug them down. And once we have these tight, we can take this little cover and re-install it as well.At this point, we can test our AC to make sure it's working properly. So what I'm going to do is just turn our thermostat down as low as it can go. You obviously need to plug your camper in to get power to it, which I've done. And we'll turn our thermostat in that cool position and kick the fan on. So it kicks on right away. We can hear it fire up. And honestly, I can feel the air getting cold already. So after a minute or two, it really should be pumping that cold air out, which as I said, it's getting colder by the second. So I think it's safe to say that everything is working correctly.So now we're just going to do a quick test. Here, I have an infrared thermometer. We've had the AC on maybe about five minutes now. So what I'll do is just shoot this up by the ceiling. And the camper looks like it's about 75 degrees, give or take. Now, if I shoot our beam into the vent where the AC is coming out of, it looks like it's going to be about 54 degrees. So about a 20 degree difference. Now, keep in mind, like I said, we only had this gong for a few minutes and that's pretty efficient. That's pretty good, actually. So the longer this runs, it'll become even more efficient and we should see even cooler temperatures.And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Furrion Chill replacement air conditioner for motorhomes with a Coleman setup, on our 2012 Jayco Melbourne.

Martin P.


My Coleman Mach 8000 has 4 spade connectors on the control box, B, Y, GL, and GH. Where do these go on the new Furrion control box? I have the conversion wiring harness for the plugs and I know what to do with the 110 volt wires. Also, will the Coleman Mach thermostat work with the new Furrion AC unit? I assume that is where the B,Y,GL and GH wires are coming form.

Les D.


I have attached a link to the installation manual, and on page 18-19 is a schematic. The four wires you are referring to are coming from the thermostat and will connect to the thermostat pigtail coming out of the Furrion control box. There are not spade connectors on the Furrion. Regarding your old Coleman thermostat, can you locate a model number on or inside of it?

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