bing tracking image

Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty

content loading

Customers compare BWGNRK1108 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty


Today on a 2004 Ford F350, we'll be installing the B&W turnoverball underbed gooseneck trailer hitch part number BWGNRK1108. Let us go ahead and show you how the release handle works. To release the pin, you simply pull the handle out and rotate it forward. This is in the unlatched position. Now to re-latch it, simply slide it back towards the back of the truck. Gently twist it and release.

Unlatched, latched. Now, in order to install the ball in the gooseneck, you need to pull the handle out in the driver side wheel well and put it in the locked open position. Then you'll take the ball and slide it into position. Once the ball's in position, go ahead and release the handle, and the pin will go through the ball, locking it in the position. Where not using the ball, you can go ahead and pull the handle to release it. You can then flip the ball over, putting the ball down through the gooseneck, then you can go ahead and release the handle, locking the ball in the storage position. We've already gone ahead removed the rear tires from the vehicle to give ourselves a little more working room.

We've also gone ahead and lower down this spare tire out of the way. Now we're going to go ahead and remove the bracket here that holds the emergency brake cable here on the driver side. Once we've got the nut removed, we'll go ahead and push this stud out and we will be using some hardware supplied with the kit to reattach our emergency brake cable later in the install. Now we'll go ahead and go on the inside of the frame rail and then we'll pull out the stud. We will not be reusing this. Now we'll go ahead and take our tape measure and measure from the rear edge of the bed up to the measurement per the instruction.

We'll then go ahead and find the center point of the bed by measuring equal distance between the two sides. Now that we've have our marked made on our bed, we'll go ahead and take our pilot bit and drill a hole down through the bed. Now that we have our pilot hole drilled, we'll go ahead and take our hole saw and drill our hole down through the bed. We're going to go ahead and put our support apparatus in place now so that once we get to the point of putting the center section up in the position, we can use this to help support it as we bolt the center section to each of the cross rails. Now we're going to begin here by installing the rear crossed piece. Notice that there are two notches taken out on this one, as this two notches will end up at the passenger side rear.

There's also this oval wholes drilled in it and this will face forward when the bracket actually flip forward. It will look like this when its in the frame and we'll go ahead and install it over here from the driver side, sliding it across and then flipping it up in the position. Now we've got the cross member in place, we'll go ahead and rotate it up. Now you want to set the rear cross member about 4 inches back from the 4 inch hole we just drilled. Now the forward cross member, we want to make sure that the oval holes are facing toward the rear, so that the two sets of oval holes, one on the front, cross member and a set on the rear are facing each other. Again, we'll go ahead and start here on the driver side and slide the cross member in position. Ultimately, it will end up flipped like this and since we have to remove the emergency brake bracket, we need to go ahead and install here on our driver side side plate, a 5/16 carriage bolt through this square hole. Do that from the rear side and then we are going to install a nut to hold it in place for now. Next we'll go ahead and take our clamp here. We'll need to work it around the frame so that it is sitting on there something about like this. Go ahead and slide it in. Now that we have our frame bracket in place, we'll go ahead and slide our side plate in. Then go ahead and stick 1/2 inch lock washer, 1/2 hex nut, on the stud of the frame clamp. We will just hand-tighten all of these till we get everything assembled. Next, will take our 1/2 inch bolt, feed it through the side plate through our clamp. Then we'll put a lock washer and a hex nut on that. Again we'll just kind of put everything loose until we get everything lined up. Next we'll going to go ahead and take this piece of pipe spacer. We'll need to put a peice between the side plate and the frame of the vehicle. Now, there's an oval hole behind this that will be lining up. We'll go ahead and slide this up into position. We'll also be taking this 3-1/4 inch bolt going through the side plate, the pipe spacer, as well as the frame. Now with this in place, we'll go to the inside of the frame and add the rest of our hardware. we'll then install our 3-1/4 inch flat washer, 3-1/4 inch lock washer and a 3-1/4 inch hex nut. Again we'll just put all this hand-tight for now. We'll begin here by tightening down the 6 bolts that it attached to the center section to each of the cross rails. Three in the front and three in the back. Now that we have these 6 bolts tightened down, we'll go ahead and torque them to the manufacturer's specification. Now before we continue tightening down the hardware underneath, it's a good idea to come up above and make sure that center section here is centered up in the hole as well as being squared-off to the rails and to the truck bed itself. As you can see here, we look pretty good so we're going to go ahead and continue tightening down the hardware from the underside. Next we'll go ahead and tighten down a 3-1/4 inch bolt that holds the side plates to the frame. Once we've got each of them tightened down, we'll go ahead and torque them to the manufacturer's specification. Next we'll go ahead and tighten down the bolt that attaches the frame clamp to the side plate here on the bottom. Once we've tighten down each side, we'll then torque them to the manufacturer's specification. Now that we've got the apparatus released from the pin, we'll go ahead and set it up out of the way. We'll go ahead and take our release handle now from the underside. We'll feed it through the little hole right here and we'll work it to the outside and we want to make sure that the handle is on the front side of the latch pin here in the center section. We'll then take our bolt. We'll go through the handle, then through the pin and then we'll put our lock nut in place. Once that is done, we'll go ahead and tighten things down. Next, we're going to need to drill out the holes to put our safety U-bolt into place. We'll be using this two holes here which line up with the lower portion of the corrugation of the bed. This right here is the lowest portion. We'll be using the two innermost holes closest to the round portion of the center section. We'll go ahead and put a pilot bit from the underside and then we'll go to the topside and drill back down with our 1/2 inch drill bed. We'll go ahead now from the topside and drill out our holes to a 1/2 inch drill bed. We'll go ahead and take our U-bolt, drop them into position, and then we'll go underneath and install our springs and nuts. Now that we're back underneath the vehicle, we'll go ahead and take our spring here, slide it over the end of the U-bolt, and then take our lock nut, thread it on to the threads of the U-bolt. Go ahead and put the other on as well. Once that is on, we'll go ahead and tighten it down so that we have about a thread showing passed the nut. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on the other U-bolt. Next we'll go ahead and reinstall our rear wheels, as well as put our spare tire back up into position. That will do it for our installation of the B&W turnoverball underbed gooseneck trailer hitch part number BWGNRK1108 on our 2004 Ford F350. .


Max

2/23/2022

Thank you so much to the detailed video. I now see that I can do this myself! Will this fit 2003 F550 with 8ft bed?

Les D.

2/23/2022

Sorry but we do not have any products that fit a F550. I even tried to see if B&W had a generic, one size fits all, solution.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Joe B
Test Fit:
Joe B
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Sue W
Video by:
Sue W

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.