bing tracking image

B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

content loading

Customers compare bwgnrk1012 to these similar products

Products Featured in this Video

How to Install a B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

Today on this 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 crew cab we're going to install part number BWGNRK1012. This is the B&W Turnover Ball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with the Custom Install Kit. We'll go ahead and try it out. We'll go ahead and pull on the handle and rotate it to the front. You pull out the ball. If you want to we can store it inside.

There's a little finger hole here too as well. We can lock it in place and it's secure. We'll unlock it one more time and put it back up ready for towing. Lock it and check to make sure it's secure. Here's our U bolts that's spring loaded now, so those will work correctly too. First thing we need to do is go ahead and get our truck ready to install the hitch.

What we did is lift it up by the frame to give us room to let the suspension stretch, so we have plenty of room to work in here because our plates for the hitch are going to mount right in here. Definitely helps, almost a necessity, to get the spare tire out of the way as well. Next we'll go ahead and remove the heat shield for the spare tire. This will go back up when we're done. We'll use a 13 millimeter socket and a long extension.

Now we're also going to lower our exhaust as far as possible because we need access right above the exhaust and plus eventually we need to remove this section of the heat shield. So to start off I'll go ahead and take a strap, anything you can use to help support the exhaust while we're taking off the rest of the hangers. Now, we'll go ahead and spray down the rubber hangers and push, pull, or pry them off as needed and we'll go almost all the way up towards the front. So we'll start with this one back here and then go to the two that are in front of the axle. We'll spray it down with some lubricant to make it easier to remove. Our last one, right here, right next to the flange.

Now you can do this without going this far taking it down, but as much room as it gives you it really helps out a lot. That should be loose enough. Now we'll go ahead and loosen up these four bolts here. We won't remove them, just loosen them up to give us flexibility with the exhaust. We'll use a 15 millimeter socket to remove the nuts. This is a new vehicle, so we don't have to worry about much rust and corrosion, but eventually may want to spray it down with a penetrant. We'll go ahead and loosen up our strap here and we'll take care in lowering it down and make sure that we don't take up too much tension on the lines and wires that are going to the exhaust. Now we've got to get to our heat shield. Remember we've got to remove this section from here to here. Now you can use some tin snips, it gets kind of awkward at times, but also you can use a rotary tool if you've got one or a cutting wheel. After our heat shield is out of the way I like to bend or take a hammer to it and just beat the sharp edges out of the way. All right, next we need to remove the fender liner. Some vehicles will have this and some won't. In this case we have a series of torque screws and we'll use a size of T-15 on torque screws. We'll go around, there's two here, there's a bunch on the side and on the top. We'll be able to reinstall the fender liners after the end of the install. Down at the bottom there's a hidden screw. It looks like there's a few on the bottom going towards the front. Okay, we're done with our passenger side. We need to go ahead and remove the fender liner on the driver side as well. Next, we need to make a notch in this flange right here so we can go ahead and install our cross bars for our hitch. I'm going to use this spot right here. We need to make a mark about two inches across from the bottom. This is really just going to be on the outside of this cut out here on the two layers of steel, but we'll just follow the dots up and down and follow that pattern and we'll use some tin snips to go ahead and cut it out. Now after we're done with our install it would be a good idea to spray this down with something to protect the steel. Now we need to go ahead and drill a hole in our bed for the hitch. Now for clarity I had the tail gate removed, but we'll find the rib that is in the center of the truck. You can pretty much line it up with the center of the hitch and we'll measure back as described in the instructions. Now different bed lengths have different measurements. We're going by the long bed measurement. Okay, we'll just make our mark for our distance. Then we'll go ahead and check for left and right. Once we're set with our measurement we'll go ahead and drill out a small pilot hole first. I like to use an 1/8th inch bit. Then I'll leave my bit in place and then I'll check underneath the truck and also hold up one of the frame brackets to give us a good idea of how things are going to go together. All right, now we're looking on our driver side, this is our frame bracket. We're going to line it up with these two holes in the frame and then we'll look for our drill bit through this opening right here. If it's in the center of our opening we should be in good shape. It's just a good idea to double check it. Okay, we'll take our pilot hole and enlarge it to a 1/4 inch. Then we'll go ahead and use our 4 inch hole saw on our pilot hole. Next it's a good idea to go ahead and use a file to get rid of the burs then we'll go ahead and cover up the hole and use something to cover up the raw metal either like spray paint or undercoat. I'm going to cover up the hole with some tape and we'll spray paint from the bottom up. While that's drying we can go ahead and start to install the components for our hitch. First we'll go ahead and install a cross bar. This is the angle iron one. Typically you want to install a bolt right here. This is the 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch long bolt and it installs from this side to the outside and there's an o-ring to help hold it in place while we put it in the bed. However, I tend to like to start this inside first and then put the bolt in place that way I keep the bolt as clean as possible. It makes it easier to run through the hitch when the time is necessary. Let's go ahead and take our cross bar, put it through the notch you made. It's going to be a tight fit. We'll just get it started for now and we'll go ahead and put our bolt and our o-ring into place. All right, let's go ahead and put our bolt into place. It's the second hole over from the left. I'll continue sliding it over, then just push towards the front for now. That way our bolt stays nice and clean. Now we'll go ahead and install our second cross member the same way as we did this time. All right, this is our second cross bar, this is a solid bar with threaded holes in it and the holes are offset by a 1/4 inch, so you want the offset going towards the bottom. Let's go ahead and slide it through our notch and we'll go ahead and rotate it once it's all the way in. We'll slide it in place then we'll grab it with some channel locks and rotate it up. It'll drag against the bottom of the bed just a little bit. Then we go ahead and maneuver it as we see fit. Now we can go ahead and take our tape off our hole in our bed and with an extra set of hands we'll go ahead and lift up our center section of our hitch and we'll install a couple bolts, one on each side, to help hold the hitch up into place. Then we can go ahead and install the rest of our hardware. Before we put the center section of the hitch into place, we'll go ahead and show how all the hardware goes together. For these oval holes here, going all the way across, we'll use the long bolt with the shoulder here. It'll use a lock washer and a flat washer. It slips right into the solid cross bar. This will be the same hardware going all the way across and on the other side of the hitch with the round holes. You get the shorter bolt that'll go through the angle cross bar first then through the hitch and then get a lock washer and a nut. Now to help us put it into place we'll install the hitch ball into the center section of the hitch. We'll just go ahead and grab the latch here, we'll pull it out and down to this detent here to help hold it open. Then we can go ahead and install the ball. Put the hitch ball in place and let's go ahead and rotate this and let it snap back in. We'll go ahead and put the hitch ball through the hole in the bed and our extra set of hands will grab and hold it for us while we install the rest of our hardware. All right, we got a bolt here started and one on the opposite side started. You notice we got the bolt lined up over the gas tank, so let's go ahead and move our bar in position and push it through and we'll install the hardware on it. A lock washer and a nut and then let's go ahead and put the rest of our hardware in place. Definitely want to leave everything loose so we can move it around, so we can line up the holes. All right, now through this bolt here it's a good idea to move the pin out of the way, so it gives you a little easier access to the bolt because the spring gets in the way. With all of our hardware loosely installed on the cross rails to the center section of the hitch, now we'll go ahead and install our hardware for our frame brackets. We're going to fill our hardware to these two mounting holes and we'll use this round hole for an access hole to this one and on the other side of the frame at about this area here we'll use a longer handle for our hardware. Now our 5/8ths bolts will go through the handle, it kind of threads in a little bit. You have to get it threaded in there until it twists just right and falls into place. You'll take it and put it into the access hole and work it into place. You may have to bend the handle a little bit to help maneuver it in as well. Do the same thing with the long handle one. With our hardware in place we can go ahead and put our side bracket on. We'll carefully put it between the two cross bars and rotate it into place. It may help to use some needle nose to grab the end of the bolt, just be gentle, and pull it through and then let the weight of the bracket hold it in place. Then we'll add a 5/8ths flat washer, lock washer, and a nut. Now we've got these two loosely installed. Now we'll go ahead and install our hardware that goes from the frame bracket to the cross members. The hardware to install these two pieces together will be the inch and a half bolt, flat washer, and a lock washer. This is a 1/2 inch diameter bolt and the cross bar going towards the front will get the same bolt that direction with a flat washer and a lock washer and a nut. Again we're keeping all of these loosely installed. We're done with our passenger side, we'll do the same thing on our driver side. However, you have to take more care in installing the handle from the inside on the driver side due to the fact that you've got wires and brake lines in the way that partially cover up the hole. Other than that everything else is identical. One thing we found out, if you loosen up the bracket for the brake lines here there's a bolt that you need to use a 13 millimeter socket on, you undo it and you can push the whole assembly up to get easier access to the hole where you can take the bolt and run it inside the frame and maneuver it. It may be a good idea when you're done to go ahead and reinspect it to make sure it doesn't rub on the line when you're done. You may have to bend the handle out a little way. With all the hardware loosely installed at this point we'll go ahead and just snug down all the bolts just to take up all the slack and then we'll square up the hitch to make sure it's even with the truck. We'll do this on the outside on both sides of the frame and also we'll snug up the bolts going from the center sections to the cross rails. On this hardware here we use a 15/16ths socket. Now all the 1/2 inch bolts we'll use a 3/4 inch wrench and a socket. Now we'll go ahead and make sure the hitch is square with the truck. We can do that by measuring the distance from here to here. All we need to look for is the same measurement on both sides. Now to adjust it you basically just got to tap it one way or the other. We don't have it tightened down we just have it to just take up the slack so we can measure it. Once we're satisfied with the hitch being square we'll go ahead and tighten down the bolts and torque them down for good. We'll start on the center section first and work our way out. To tighten down this bolt we use a 3/4 inch crows foot. Now we'll go ahead and tighten down our frame brackets to our cross members. Next we'll go ahead and tighten down our frame brackets to our frame. Now we go ahead and install the handle for the pin that holds the ball in place. We'll install it through this opening and we'll also install it through a second opening in the center section of the hitch. Okay, here's the handle and here's the second part of the hitch we ran it through. We're going on the back side of this tab right here, so it's over center of the bar. Small carriage bolt that'll fit in there and then a flange nut that goes on the back and we'll tighten that down with a 1/2 inch socket. Next up we need to drill out holes for our u-bolts. There's two existing holes right here and here for our passenger side and then one here and one here for our driver side. We'll go ahead and drill them out with a 1/2 inch drill bit. Then we'll go ahead and clean up the holes from the top side and then install our u-bolts. Now we're using a step bit to clean out the holes. You can also use the next larger size such as a nine sixteenths or even a five eighths drill bit to clean it up on the top side. A little clean up and we'll drop the u-bolts in for good. Now we'll go ahead and install our hardware for our u-bolts. A spring and a lock nut. We'll do that on both sides and then we'll tighten down the nuts to where there's about two or three threads showing at the most below the nut. We use a 3/4 inch socket to tighten them down. Okay, now at this point all of our components for our hitch are installed. Now we can go ahead and put our truck back together. We'll put our fender well liners in and we'll have to make room for a handle in the fender well on our driver side. Next we need to go head and make some room for our handle for our hitch. We'll just make a simple cut out into our fender liner here, a little bit of a trapezoid shape. Then we'll just go ahead and cut it out with some tin snips and then check it out and make any modifications we need to to make room. Now at this point we'll go ahead and reinstall our exhaust. We'll use our strap to help pull up our exhaust and then we'll go ahead and put the rubber hanger back into place towards the bumper. We'll go ahead and remove our strap since that hanger is doing the work now and then we'll go ahead and work our way up towards the front and reinstall the rubber hangers. We'll go ahead and tighten up the nuts on our flange here and then we can install the heat shield for our spare tire. Last thing we need to do is go ahead and put our spare tire up and we're finished. With that that'll finish it for our install of part number BWGNRK1012. The B&W Turnover Ball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with the Custom Install Kit on our 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 crew cab. .

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.