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B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install the B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2015 GMC Sierra 2500

Today on our 2015 GMC Sierra 2500 Model we're going to be doing an installation on a B&W Turnover Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch, with the Custom Installation Kit. The part number is BWGNRK1012. Our gooseneck hitch can easily be converted for use with a fifth wheel as well simply by using the B&W companion, part number BWRVK3500. As you can see the B&W's gooseneck style hitch is going to allow us full access into our bed. It's an under bed mount set up so we don't have to worry about having all the rails and the bars up here interfering with our bed. Flush mount design, as you can see, so a large hole cut out here in the bed allows that to pass up through nicely. The same goes for your safety chain connections here on both sides.

The springs are really going to help to eliminate or at least reduce any kind of noises or vibrations we might have. We'll pull out on our black handle and rotate it. As you can see that's going to keep it in that pulled position or in that outward position. That's going to allow us to lift the ball itself, flip this right over, slide it into position, lock it with our lever. Just rotating that handle slightly it's going to allow it to fall back in. We can hook it up to any 2-5/16" gooseneck style trailer.

When it's time to put it away for the evening or when we're done hauling our trailer, we'll simply just flip that around. I'll operate the slide handle for you now so you can see how that pin will pass through. As you can see whether it's in the up or down position, our ball mount will be fully secure. Now that we've gone over a few of the features let's get this thing installed on our truck. Let's start by lowering our spare tire down here in the rear. Getting this out of the way is going to make access into the area we want to work a lot easier.

We're now going to clear out just a little bit of room here. This is going to allow the cross rails of our hitch to go into place. The plastic fender liner here is covering it. Some of these vehicles will have it, some won't. In our case we're just going to take out a small square for now to see if that'll give us the room we need.

If not, we may need to take out a little bit more later. We'll now make our little V notch here on the side. We want a 2" base, so we'll go 2" here, and we're going to go up about 3/4". That usually puts us right underneath that rail that comes out. If you have some kind of cutting tool, a rotary cutting tool of some type, that can be really good to use. Also just some aviation or tin style snips can work as well. We just want to kind of trim that out of there. Now we can modify the exhaust heat shield here on the bottom side. Between the two rails we want to trim off that heat shield portion that's blocking the bottom side of the bed. Then we'll also cut it out up here at the front just behind the other rail that runs across. We'll just pull this down and out and we can trim up any of the rough edges that we've got there. Now it's time to put a hole here in the back of the truck. This is going to be the 4" hole they tell you to drill out, just referring to your instruction manual. This is going to tell you exactly where you're going to want to put it. We're going to measure from the very back lip of the tailgate forward to get that measurement. Then we measure from the outside into our middle. We want to make sure we've got the same distance on both sides. We've got our mark made there where we want our hole to go so now we'll bring in our hole saw and run our hole on through. Now we'll take the L shaped cross member, we're going to slide it in the wedge that we cut out and just slide this on across where we can get to it from the bottom of the car and place it up onto our frame rails. We just want to kind of bring this forward and position it in front of our 4" hole here. Now we're going to come to the second hole from the driver side on our front cross bar here. We're going to put in one of the 1/2" by 1-1/2" bolts. There's a small O ring that's been provided. This O ring is going to go over that and hold it in place. Now we'll bring our center section up and we're going to do what they call stages. We're just going to allow it to sit up there. You'll see that the hole is slightly offset to on side. That offset should be toward the back. Right now at that stage let's grab our rear cross brace. We're just going to slide this in behind our center section there and just like the other one we'll go underneath and re-position it. This one you'll notice the holes are slightly offset. We want that offset or we want the holes to be nearer the bottom than the are the top. Then this will be rotated into position as you see there. We want the holes to be closer to the bottom and this should be the rear most cross member or cross brace. We're just going to align the raised center section with the hole that we had cut out. With that in line we're now bringing the front cross member back. We're going to align up our holes and then we'll place one of the 1/2" by 1-1/2" bolts through, that'll help us hold that position slightly. On those we're going to have a lock washer and a nut to hold them in place. These fasteners we just need to get these hand tight. For the rear we're going to take one of the 1/2" by 2" bolts, place a flat washer and a lock washer on that. That's going to go from the inside of our center section rearward and we'll lift it up so we can get it threaded into our rear cross brace. Then we'll repeat that for the other four holes in our rear cross brace here. Now we've got our bolt guides here. Our bolt guides we're going to put our 5/8" bolts through. Kind of thread on there like a nut. It's designed to be a tight fit. A lot of times you need to use a ratchet or something to get them in there. We should have this so it'll be all the way down flush with the top of the guide. On our longer one you can see here the bend comes down and we've put the bolt down through. The tabs are sticking up through that side. On our shorter one that we're going to use, the bend is the opposite. So we'd be putting the bolt in the top. After that, it's the exact same process. We'll now take our bolt with the guide. We're going to place it through the oblong hole here. You can see your jounces right there. Just come up from there. That goes in and we rotate it around just like that. That's where we're going to have access to that bolt. Now let's go over to the passenger side. We can do that exact same thing. On the inside we'll come in and kind of follow that same method. Then just work our handle so it'll get us to the right location here. Then we can come over to our passenger side and repeat that same thing. To allow for easier access what we're going to do is take off this piece of inner fender liner here. We didn't want to take off more than we had to, but now that we've got our cross members in place it's clear that this is going to offer some interference. You'll see here with that small section out of the way we're going to be able to get to the end of each of our cross braces there to easily attach our hardware. We'll bring our side plate up. As we do we want to be careful not to push our bolts back through. Now let's use a washer, a locking washer and a nut on each one of those. Just like all of our other hardware we're just going to leave these hand tight for now. Let's go over to the other side and repeat that same process. Now for connecting the side plates to our cross members we're going to bring another 1/2" by 1-1/2" bolt. We're going to bolt through our cross member and our side plate, then we'll have a washer, locking washer, and a nut that'll be threaded on that one. For the rear we're just going to take a bolt that we've got a flat washer and a locking washer on, place that through and thread it into that rear cross bar. Then we'll head over to the other side of the truck and we can do that exact same thing. Now we'll go through and tighten down the bolts that are holding our center section to our cross members. Now we'll make sure we've got our gooseneck centered. We're going to take a measurement from the front edge of that, in this case I'm going right up to the hat 00:12:22 channel that runs across and we want to check this in a couple different spots to make sure we've got the same measurement. If we don't then we'll make a little bit of an adjustment to it, move it forward and back to make sure everything is nice and even. Now we'll come to our side plates. We're going to tighten up our 5/8" hardware first. Then we'll move from there right into tightening up our 1/2" hardware. Now let's head over to the passenger side and do the same thing. We're now going to torque down all of our hardware. The torque specifications will be listed in your instruction. You want to be sure to follow the same sequence that we did when we initially tightened our bolts down. We'll start here in the inside, doing our center section. Now we'll move right to our 5/8" hardware here on our side plates. Then we'll go right to our 1/2" hardware. Now let's go to the passenger side and repeat that process. Now we'll get our release handle installed. We'll bring our release handle in through and then work it through the half moon that we have inside here on the center part of our hitch. Then we'll connect it using the included hardware, which would be a carriage bolt. Then you see on the other side it gets a little flange nut. Now we'll tighten this nut down and we want to be careful that we don't over tighten it. We've now got the four holes located on the underside. We're going to drill these out using a 1/2" drill bit. That'll allow us to pass our U bolts down through for our safety chains. Because we're using such tight clearances here on the bottom, we're going to use a small drill bit to drill a pilot hole up through that'll allow us to bring our 1/2" bit back down. We'll now take our U bolts and we'll pass these right down through our holes we just drilled out. On each half of the U bolt that sticks down we're going to place a spring on. Then we'll get one of the nuts started for each of those locations. Now we'll tighten those nuts down so that our U bolt is sitting flush with the bottom. Now let's get our spare tire put back into place. That'll complete today's installation of the B&W Turnover Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch, part number BWGNRK1012. .

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