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B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install the B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Today on our 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD crew-cab, we're going to be installing the B&W turnover ball under-bed Gooseneck trailer hitch with custom installation kit, part number BWGNRK1012. Now, let's go over the operation of how the ball works. You'll pull the handle out here in the driver side wheel-well, rotate it forward. That's in the locked open position that will allow you to either put the ball in the up or flip it over and put it into the store position. Once that's done, you'll go ahead and twist the handle and release, and that will lock it back into place. Now, we'll go ahead and pull the handle in the driver side wheel-well to the unlock position. We can then install out ball. With the ball down in the upright position like this, we'll go back to the wheel-well where we'll release the handle into place locking the ball into place with the pin.

Put the handle back in the lock position. Our ball is secure. When you're not using your Gooseneck ball, you can pull the handle out again to the unlock position. You can then take the ball and flip it over into the stored position. Once the ball is in the stored position, go ahead and release the handle so that it goes back into the locked position securing the ball in the Gooseneck receiver. We're going to first begin our installation by lowering down and setting the spare tire down out of the way for now.

This will give us a little more working room. Next, we're going to go ahead and remove both of the rear tires, again to give us a little more working room. Next, we're going to need to remove the fender liners here, one on each side, and there are several fasteners that attach it to the bed of the truck. Now, with our fasteners removed, we can go ahead and work the liner out and set it aside for now. We will then go ahead and repeat the same process over on the other side. Next, we're going to need to mark the inside of our bed where we'll need to drill out hole.

We'll go ahead and take the tape measure and we'll measure from the rear of the bed. Once we have our mark from the rear of the bed as per the instructions, we'll then need to find the center of the bed. Once we have our mark, we'll go ahead and take a pilot bit and drill a pilot hole through. Next, we're going to go ahead and drill out 4" hole out. Now, we're going to use a board that we've actually taken and cut the same size hole with our hole saw in it that way it helps guide the hole in and also helps keep the bit from slipping around in the bed causing any additional scratches. Next, we're going to need to go here in the passenger side fender-well, and we're going to need to cut a notch into the bed lip here.

This will allow us to slide the cross-members in. Next, we're going to need to trim out our marked area. You can either use a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel, a pair of tin snips, or you can even use a grinder if you so choose. It's a good idea any where that you exposed any bare metal either here in the fender-well or at the round hole that we cut in the bed, it's a good idea to touch up any bare metal with some paint or undercoating just so it protects it and helps keep it from rusting. Next, we're going to go ahead and go up here underneath the vehicle. We're going to remove this spare tire shield just to give ourselves a little more working room and allow you to see a little more. To do this, we're going to remove a bolt here as well as here. Next, we're going to go ahead and install a safety strap to support our exhaust. Just go ahead and loop it through the frame. Now, with our safety strap in place, we're going to go ahead and remove a few rubber exhaust hangers that will allow us to lower the exhaust down a little bit giving us a little more working room. To remove the rubber exhaust hangers, we'll use a little spray lubricant and a large pry bar. Next, we're going to need to trim out a section of our heat shield. We'll need to cut out across here as well as right in through here. This section from here between the 2 marks will be removed. To trim this section out, you can either use a cut-off wheel, a rotary tool with the appropriate bit, or a pair of tin snips. Now, it's a good idea if you have any sharp edges that may be bent down after cutting to take a hammer and just tap them up so that it folds up nice and neat out of the way. Next, we're ready to install the cross-members. We're going to need to install the front cross-member first. We'll be using the flange that we cut into the side of the bed to help us do that. Now, we have the front cross-member installed. Before we push the rail forward, we're going to need to install a 1/2" bolt that looks like this and put this little rubber o-ring on it to keep it in place. It will be going in the 2nd hole from the driver side. Go ahead and put our bolt in. Well then need to push our front rail back towards the front of the cab. Next, we're going to go ahead and install the rear cross-member. Now, you'll notice that the holes drilled in it are offset a little bit. When the bar is flipped into position, you want the holes to be closer to the bottom. Go ahead and slide the bar all the way across so that it expands across both frame rails. You'll then need to rotate it up into position. You'll notice that it hits the underside of the bed. It's a little hard to rotate up into position. If you take a large crescent wrench, it will help you get a little extra leverage to rotate the bar up into position. With our cross-member rotated up into the proper position, go ahead and slide it back against the bed cross-member. Next, we're going to install the center section. Now, when installing it, you want to make sure that the hitch piece is actually towards the rear or offset towards the rear of the vehicle. Now, we have our center section raised up into position. We're actually using a lifting device to help keep it in place. You can either use a lifting device or have someone stay up there with the ball put in the center head and help hold it up into position while you put in the hardware attaching the center section and both of the cross-rails. Now that we have our center section held up into position, we'll need to go ahead and bring the forward rail towards the rear making sure that the bolt that we put in earlier on the front rail goes through the hole. Once that's in place, we'll need to add a lock washer and a hex nut. You want to make sure that when you start putting all the hardware in, that up here on the driver side front, where the cross-member goes across, there's some wires and hoses that run real close to it. We're going to make sure that the cross-member is not crushing it as it will damage it if it is. If it is touching or too close, you may need to adjust or move some of the wires or hoses just a little bit to give a little more clearance. We can go ahead and put the rest of the hardware in the front cross-member attaching it to the center section. We'll be using a 1/2" bolt by 1-1/2" long. Next, we're going to need to attach this rear cross-member to the center section. To do that, we'll be using a 1/2" by 2" long hex bolt. We'll then slide a 1/2" lock washer on followed by a 1/2" flat washer. Now, with all of our hardware started, we'll go ahead and just lightly snug everything down for now. We will not completely tighten it. We'll just get it snugged down. Next, we're going to need to install the 5/8" bolt into the bolt guides. There is 2 different styles, one is for the front, one is for the rear. You'll notice there is a couple tabs. That's what will hold the head of the bolt in place. We'll need to go ahead and thread these in. There's a 5/8" bolt for the 4 different bolt guides. It should look like that when the bolt is installed properly. These little tabs here will help keep the bolt from turning and keep it in place. Go ahead and repeat the same process for the other 3 bolt guides. Here's the front bolt guide. We're over here on the driver side. We're going to be installing it into this hole right here and using this access hole to do it. We'll go ahead and put the bolt in. It will go in there just like that. Next, we're going to need to install the rear bolt guide. This right here is the hole that bolt will be coming out, and the access hole for it is on the inside of the frame rail. Here on the driver side, there is a few wires and brake hoses that are in the way that makes it a little difficult to see and also a little difficult to get it in, but it does go in, you just have to work at it. Next, we're going to go ahead and install our side plate here on the driver side and slide it up. We'll then install a flat washer, lock washer, and a hex nut. Next, we'll need to attach a side plate to the front cross-rail by using our 1/2" by 1-1/2" hex bolt. We'll then put a flat washer on, a lock washer, and a hex nut. For the rear attachment point of this cross-member and the side plate, we'll be using a 1/2" by 1-1/2" hex bolt, a flat washer, and a lock washer. We'll then go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Once we have all the hardware installed for both of the side plates, we'll go ahead and snug them down a little bit, but do not tighten them at this time. We'll go ahead and tighten down the 8 bolts that secure the center section to the 2 cross-rails. Before we tighten down our side plates, we're going to make sure that the hitch is square and equal distance on both sides. So, we'll measure from here at the bed cross-member to the rear cross-member. After taking our measurements, we're nice and square. We've also looked in the bed of the truck to make sure that everything looks good. Now, when tightening down the hardware on the side plates, you want to tighten down the 5/8" bolts first, then the 1/2" hardware. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on the other side. Now that we have all of the hardware tightened down, we can go back and torque everything to the manufacturer's specification. When we torque down the hardware, we'll go ahead and repeat the same order that we did for tightening things down. So, we'll first tighten down the bolts holding in the center section, then the bolts holding the cross-members, then the bolts holding the side plates to the frame, and finally the bolts for the hardware securing the side plates to the cross-members. Once all the hardware has been torqued down, if you we're using a lifting device to help support the center section during the installation, you can go ahead and remove that now. Next, we're going to go ahead and attach our handle here. We'll go ahead and take the rubber end here and feed it through the hole in the center section, go out the side. We want to make sure that the handle is towards the cab on our release mechanism. We'll then be using the carriage bolt that comes with the kit and the locking flange nut. We'll go through the tab on the center pin here, and we'll put the handle on the backside followed by the locking nut. We'll then go ahead and tighten it down. Next, we're going to need to drill out the holes for our safety loops or safety chains. There's a hole here and here that we'll need to drill out as well as over on the other side, there's one here and one here. We're going to go ahead and drill a pilot hole here from underneath at each of the 4 locations. We'll go into the bed of the vehicle and drill it out to the proper size from the bed downward. Now with our holes drilled, we'll go ahead and take our U-bolt and slide them in from the top side. Next, we'll go underneath. We'll need to install a spring and a locking hex nut on both sides of the U-bolt. We'll go ahead and put the spring up into place. We'll go ahead and tighten down the nut so that the threads are flush right here with the bottom. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process for the other U-bolt. Next, we can go ahead and raise our exhaust back up and reattach any rubber exhaust hangers that we may have removed. With the rubber exhaust hangers back in place, we can go ahead and remove the safety strap. Next, we'll go ahead and re-install the spare tire heat shield. Next, we'll go ahead and re-install out fender liner here on the passenger side. Next, we're going to need to trim out our piece of fender liner here to allow for proper operation of the handle. I'm just going to use razor knife to do that. Next, we can go ahead and re-install the wheels as well as put the spare tire back up into position. That will do it for the installation of the B&W turnover ball under-bed Gooseneck trailer hitch, part number BWGNRK1012, on our 2015 Chevrolet 2500 Silverado HD crew-cab. .


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