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Bearing Repacking and Grease Seals Installation

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How to Install Grease Seals and Bearing Repacking

Today, we'll be repacking the bearings on this trailer. To aid in this, we'll be using Part Number rg06-050, the Double-Lip Grease Seal. To begin with, you'll want to remove the wheel from the hub, or in this case, it is a brake drum, as this trailer has four-wheel brakes all the way around. Now that the wheels have been removed, we'll go ahead and remove the dust cap. With the dust cap removed, you'll see that there's a cotter pin that runs through the castle nut. You'll need to remove this cotter pin.

With the cotter pin out, next we'll go ahead and back the castle nut off. Behind the castle nut, there will be a flat washer as well as the outer bearing. You need to get the flat washer off and then pull gently on the drum to get the outer bearing to slide off the spindle. Now that we have the drum off, you'll need to go ahead and work the old seal out that holds the inner bearing in. To do this, you can use a flat-head screwdriver or a pry bar.

As you are removing this seal, it will damage the seal, but don't worry about it, as you will not reuse it. Now that you have the seal out, go ahead and pull the inner bearing out. You'll want to go ahead and clean both of the bearings off, both the inner and outer and inspect them for any unusual wear or pitting or marking on the bearing. While you're at it, go ahead and check the inner hub, too, both of the races, the inner and outer. You want to clean them out and look for any marking or pitting or any areas where it looks like they may have gotten hot and may need to be replaced.

Next, we'll go ahead and make sure that we've cleaned the bearings up nice and go ahead and repack both of the bearings. With that done, we'll go ahead and put a little grease into the hub on both sides, making sure that we go ahead and put ample grease on both of the races. You'll also want to go ahead and make sure you put a little grease on the spindle to help aid in sliding the new grease seal on. Now we're ready to go ahead and put our rear bearing back into the hub. To do this, you drop it back into place and set the new double-lip seal over the top of it.

It helps if you use a block of wood and a rubber mallet, or a block of wood and a hammer to help tap the seal back into place. You want to make sure that it goes flush with the rear of the hub. Now with that in, we're ready to go ahead and put our hub back onto our spindle. Once that's done, we'll place the hub back on the spindle. Once we have that in place, we'll go ahead and slide the front bearing back in, followed by the flat washer, and then thread the castle nut back on. Once you get the castle nut back on and you're getting it tightened down, go ahead and spin the hub a little bit. You want it to still spin freely but not have any excessive play in it. Once you have this lined up, you'll need to make sure that the castle nut lines up with the holes so you can put the cotter pin back in place. In this case, we went ahead and used a new cotter pin as our old one was pretty bent up. With that done, we'll go ahead and put the dust cover back on, and that will complete our bearing repack on this trailer with 3,500-pound axles as well as brakes using the True-Ride Double-Lip Bearing Seal, Part Number rg06-050.

Steve D.


In this video, they drive the inner seal flush using a block of wood. But in the video I am linking below, a race/seal driver tool is used, and the seal is driven down past flush (starting around 12:15 in the video). Which one is correct? Do they both work?

Les D.


@SteveD I surveyed a handful of mechanics and they said that either way was ok, and that they worried about over hammering and deforming if they drove both, to hard, and to far. They also admitted that they (like most customers) only had the 4X4 at home.

Steve D.


@LesD Thank you. Now that my seals came in and I pulled my old one, I see (on my hubs anyway) there is a lip inside in the same spot as the inner race that would stop the seal from going too far, and the polished area on the spindle for the seal is wide enough to accommodate either flush or a little deeper to that lip. Thank you.

Juergen C.


I have read some of your work descriptions and must say, they are right on.It is an outstanding service for DIY selfer and I hope your customer thank you for it. Keep on going.

Etrailer Expert

Rachael H.


Info for this part was:

Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D

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