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Hopkins Rear View Camera Installation - 2011 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Hopkins Rear View Camera on a 2011 Ford F-150


Today on our 2011 Ford F-150 we'll be installing the Hopkins Rear View Camera with Back Up Sensors, with a 2-1/2" LCD Screen, part number HM60195VA. We'll go ahead and start by opening the driver's door and we'll need to remove the door seal as well as lift the carpet up a little bit. Before you begin you want to kind of take a look underneath your vehicle and see if you can find any sort of grommet or anything like that, that you might be able to push the wire up through when you get up close to the front part of the cab of the vehicle. As you can see here, here's the area that we're going to pull the wire through the floor pan. Before we pull the wire through, we're going to put a little electrical tape on the end of the wire to protect any of the fittings to keep from getting any dirt or other debris in it. Once we've done that we'll go ahead and fish it up from the underside of the vehicle, pulling it through enough that we can make our connection once we mount our LCD screen up on the dash area. Now we'll go ahead and go back underneath the vehicle and route our wires to the back, keeping in mind you want to keep away from any sharp edges, moving parts or areas that may become hot. While routing to the back of the vehicle we went ahead and used some zip ties to help secure it. Next we'll need to go ahead and move to the license plate area. First we'll need to remove the existing license plate.

In this case we just had to take off the two top screws. On this particular vehicle there is no hole behind the license plate so we are going to need to drill a small hole to allow the wire to be pushed through. Before we drill any holes we're going to go ahead and hold it up in place. If you notice we're going to need to offset it a little bit to the driver's side because the spare tire locking cap is in the way. We'll just move it over about 1/4".

Because of this though we'll have to re-drill the top holes that hold the license plate on. Before we do that we'll go ahead and hold the hole bracket in place and take a marker and mark the locations where we'll need to drill. We went ahead and marked the four locations that hold the license plate on as well as the larger hole that we'll need to drill to push the wire through. Now that we have the four locations marked we'll go ahead and drill the holes. Next, we'll go ahead and put our license plate into the back up camera bracket. This can be a little snug to get in place so be careful when pushing it in so you don't break the bracket.

Once you have the plate all the way in place the top holes should line up. Next you'll need to go ahead and take the wire off the license plate bracket with the camera in it and feed it through the larger hole that you just drilled. Now that that's through we'll go ahead and put the four screws that hold the license plate bracket as well as the camera in place. In this case we used the two screws that we're supplied with the kit for the top ones and we had to get two different screws for the bottom because the screws that we're from the factory we're a little too short. We went ahead and got a little bit longer screws. Now that we have the license plate and the back up camera as well as the sensors mounted, we'll need to make the connection for the black wire. You'll notice here that there's two white arrows that you want to line up with before pushing it together.

Once you've pushed that together go ahead and use some black electrical tape to tape over the connection to give it a little extra protection and to make sure that the wire doesn't pull apart. Now you'll also notice that there was a black and a red wire that was run back with the wire from the front of the vehicle. This will need to be routed up to the area of the driver's rear light assembly. To remove the driver side light assembly in the rear, we'll need to lower the tailgate and remove the two screws that are on the inside of the jamb there. With that done the light assembly will pull out. Once we've got the connection apart for the reverse light we need to go ahead and do a test to figure out which one is the hot one when you're vehicle is put into reverse. For this step you want to get some one in the vehicle to start the vehicle and put it into reverse while you use the test light to figure out which line is the hole line when in reverse. In this case it's the light blue with the stripe on. Now that we know which wire is the hot wire, we'll need to connect the red wire, of the red and black wires, that we ran back from the front of the vehicle. To make this connection we'll use the wire splice supplied. The blue wire will go through the through part of the wire splice and the red wire will go into the side of the wire splice that does not go all the way through. Once you have them pushed in, use a pair of pliers to crimp them in place. Go ahead and close the top of the wire splice. It's a good idea to add a little electrical tape around it as a little extra protection. Now that we have that done we'll need to put a ring connector on the black wire as this is the wire that will be used for the ground. We found that using the ring connector instead of tying it into the other black wire on the actual clip gives you a better ground. Once the wiring connections are made now it is time to reinstall the light assembly. We went ahead and pulled the black and red wire apart a little bit to give us a little extra room so we could find a good ground underneath the vehicle. As you'll see here, here's a good area where the body has been doubled up and will allow for a good ground. We'll go ahead and use some zip ties to bundle up the excess wire and zip tie it off. We'll snip off the excess of all the zip ties that we used to run the wire from the front of the vehicle to the back as well as bundling up any of the excess wire. Now we'll go ahead and move back up into the cab of the vehicle. We'll need to go ahead and pull the rubber trim back a little bit to route the wire underneath it to run it up the inside of the door seal. Once you get your finger underneath the edge of it you can just slide it along and push the wire under following. Once you have it high enough that you can make the connection with the monitor, again you'll line up the two white arrows and push the connection together. Followed by using again, a little electrical tape to help secure it and keep it in place. Before we mount our LCD screen, we're going to go ahead and test the camera by having someone start the vehicle and put it into reverse. We also had to go ahead and adjust the camera a little bit, as seen here. We loosened it up and had to raise it up to get a better angle of what was behind the vehicle. You will also notice how the sensors pick up the closer the object or person gets behind the vehicle it goes from green to red. The closer the object gets to the vehicle, the beeping will get faster and louder. Now that we have our camera adjusted we'll go ahead and mount the LCD screen on the dash. In this case we found off to the left side of the gauges, up on the dash, was a good spot where it's out of the way but yet very visible once you put it in reverse. To mount the LCD screen pull the backing off the sticky tape and push down firmly. Once you have the LCD screen mounted to the dash, that'll do it for the installation of the Hopkins Rear View Camera with Back Up Sensors with a 2-1/2" LCD Screen, part number HM60195VA on our 2011 Ford F-150. .


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C

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