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Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera Installation - 2006 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera on a 2006 Ford F-250

Today on our 2006 Ford F250 Super Duty we'll be installing and taking a look at the Hopkins Smart Hitch back-up camera, part number HM50002. Now here's what our Hopkins back-up camera display looks like once it's installed. Now as we back up to our trailer with the hitch alignment system on, it will not only give us a visual look but also an audible alert. We also have the option of going through two different choices of the hitch alignment system, both giving audible alerts as we get closer to our trailer or object. Now we'll go ahead and show you how to install it. Now to begin our install we're first going to go ahead and remove the license plate. We'll set our hardware aside.

We'll bring in our back-up camera and bracket, taking the license plate, sliding it into place with the pre-drilled holes. Then we can use the new fasteners provided with the install kit to secure the back-up camera where we removed the license plate from originally. Here at the back of the camera is the wire feed. It's just going to go through the opening in the bumper. Now once we have it into place we'll go ahead and tighten it down.

Once it's secured I'll make my temporary adjustments to the rear motion sensors, keep them just about even, and our camera. Then we can make our final adjustments after we complete installing the system. Next we need to connect the new wiring harness for our back-up camera. Here we have the plug that will connect to the pigtail for our bracket that we mounted with the license plate and our 7-pole connector that will plug inline with the manufacturer's wiring. Now to make this connection we're going to go ahead and remove the four screws that hold the 7-pole connector. Now we can take the connector, pull it through, and we'll need to release the locking tab.

I'll just use a flat blade screwdriver and gently pry it back. Over time these can get a little sticky. It can be difficult to operate. Then we can press on the connector lock, releasing the wiring harness connector from our 7-pole connector. Now as you can see here on the manufacturer's wiring connector, we have some dielectric grease. We can go ahead and add that to the new Hopkins t-connector using the Edelmann dielectric grase, part number 11755.

We're going to put just enough on here so that it will protect the terminal from the buildup of rust and corrosion. Doesn't take much. Now once we have our connector covered we'll take the 7-pole socket, plug it into the new connector, making sure it locks in place. The other side of our t-connector will plug into the manufacturer's wiring harness. Once that lock's in place we can snap the connector closed and then check it to make sure we've got a good secured connection. Note, over time these connectors can become weak. If that's the case, you can simply take a zip tie. We'll simply feed it through the two connectors and then use that to help cinch them together and hold them in place. I'll cut off the excess from the zip tie to clean up the install look and get it out of the way. Now before I reinstall the 7-pole connector I'm going to simply take the wiring harness, feed it over the hitch so that we can make our connection once we reinstall the manufacturer's 7-pole connector. Now once we have the manufacturer's 7-pole reinstalled we'll move underneath the vehicle where we can make a connection with the pigtail from the license plate bracket and then start routing our harness up towards the engine compartment. Next we need to take the splice or y-connector that comes from the red and black wire that we mounted to our 7-pole. They other end has a pigtail. This pigtail has a white arrow on it that will match up with the white arrow from the pigtail from our license plate bracket and camera, and plug the two together. Once we have them firmly plugged together I'm going to go ahead and wrap them up with some black electrical tape, help to keep this connection clean from dirt, dust, debris, and moisture. Now with our connections made here at the back of the vehicle I'm going to go ahead and secure my wiring or any excess from the red and black wire here to the main cable. Now as we route the main cable up towards the engine compartment we'll also secure it as necessary. We're just going to use some zip ties. Keep in mind when routing your wire to stay away from any moving components such as steering or suspension, or excessive heat such as exhaust. Now that we've routed here all the way to the bottom of the engine compartment, we might have just enough wire to get to the top of the engine compartment but not enough to actually route inside and connect to our LCD screen. For these applications where the vehicle is too long for the wiring harness provided, we can add the Hopkins extension cable for the Hopkins Smart Hitch back-up camera. It's an additional 25 feet, part number HM3100504061. Here we have the extension cable. Again, it's 25 feet. It's going to mirror the manufacturer's original cable with the arrows for the plug. We'll go ahead and match up the two plugs with the arrows and make our connection. Again, once we make this connection I'm going to wrap it up with some black electrical tape. Now for this application we're going to use a pull wire, which can be a stiff piece of wire, in this case a piece of air tubing, to assist in routing up through the engine compartment. Take my pull wire, I'm going to route it up through the engine compartment. Once it's routed into place I'll take the end of the pull wire along with the end of my cable, tape the two together, and then move to the top of the engine compartment, pulling the wiring harness in position. Now once I've finished securing the wiring underneath I'm going to go back and cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up my install look. Now that we've got our wiring harness here pulled to the top of the engine compartment, I'm just going to use a zip tie to secure it. Once again, we can go ahead and secure it off to the manufacturer's wiring harness. Now when routing your harness into the cabin of the vehicle, it's recommended to go through the manufacturer's grommet. Here at the firewall in front of the fuse box is the manufacturer's grommet, and it actually already has a hole in it so we can utilize that. I'll come back to the end of my pull wire and the wiring harness, remove the pull wire, and route the new harness into the cabin of the vehicle. Now we'll have some wiring harness left over. We have two options. One, we can bundle it up here in the engine compartment, or two, we can bundle it up in the cabin of the vehicle and secure it up underneath the dash. I prefer to secure it up underneath the dash since we have plenty of room. Now once I've got the wiring harness started inside I can just move inside and pull the remaining portion of the harness into the cabin of the vehicle. Now with our wiring harness run inside, you need to select a mounting location for your LCD display. Out the back of the display will be the connection that we'll attach the wiring harness to. We're going to mount ours here at the top of the dash near the driver's door pillar. Our wiring harness can run behind the dash and up and out where we can make our connection. We're going to take the end we ran into the cabin of the vehicle, run it up through the dash, and out through the edge of the dash where it meets the door pillar. Now to assist in routing through the dash we're going to use our pull wire to help get the harness into place. Now once we have access to the end of our pull wire we'll again go ahead and attach the end of our wiring harness to it using the black electrical tape. Now that I've got the pull wire taped up I'm going to go ahead and pull it to the top of the dash. Now once I have access to the end I'll go ahead and remove the pull wire. Now just like before we'll take the pigtail and harness, match up the arrows, and firmly press them together to make our connection. Now since we're inside the vehicle we don't necessarily need to wrap up this connection point as we shouldn't have to worry about moisture behind the dash. I'm going to go ahead and feed the excess back down underneath the dash. Then to mount the LCD display on the bottom we have a two-way adhesive. We'll go ahead and remove that adhesive and attach it to the top of the dash. I do recommend to go ahead and clean the top of the dash first with a little alcohol wipe or maybe some soap and water with a clean cloth. Now that we've got our dash cleaned we'll go ahead and remove the two-way adhesive and attach our LCD screen. Get it into position, firmly press it into place, and then we can tilt it as necessary to view it from the driver's seat. We also have a nice protectant over the screen. I'll remove that. now with everything installed we'll go ahead and secure any excess wiring up underneath the dash and then test our new Hopkins back-up camera. Once I have the bundle of wire secured, I'll cut off the excess from the zip ties that we used to secure it. now to test our new back-up camera, it's pretty simple. We'll take our key, put it into the ignition, turning it to the on position. We'll then go ahead and put the vehicle in reverse, turning on our display. Now with everything installed and secured it will complete the install and look at the Hopkins Smart Hitch back-up camera, part number HM50002, on our 2006 Ford F250 Super Duty. .

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