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Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera Installation - 2013 Chevrolet Silverado

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How to Install the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera on a 2013 Chevrolet Silverado


Today on our 2013 Chevrolet Silverado, we're going to review and install the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera, part number HM50002. Right out of the box, we're going to have our LCD display screen that will project the image coming from our camera. This is the license plate camera mount. It has both our camera and backup sensors. Then, we have our power cord and cable to connect the camera to the LCD monitor. Let's go ahead and see how we use it.

Now in order for our monitor to come on, the vehicle will have to be in reverse. Then once we're in reverse, the monitor automatically comes on. Then we can back up and hook up to our trailer. There's also a few other features that we can use the toggle button for. We can increase or decrease the brightness of our display.

We can change the contrast of our screen, color, and sharpness. To begin our install, we're going to go ahead and remove the license plate. Next, we're going to install the backup camera and license plate bracket. Coming out of the back of the bracket will be the cord, and we'll just feed that through the opening in the bumper. Take our license plate, slide it into position, lining it up with the attachment points. Then line those up with the manufacturer's mounts and use the new hardware provided to secure the license plate and bracket.

Now we'll bring in our power cable and the camera connection. The camera connection will be the black connector that'll match up to the wire coming out of the back of the license plate bracket. You'll notice the 2 white arrows will get lined up, and the connection is made. To help prevent moisture from getting inside the connection point, we're going to go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape. The other end of this wiring harness is going to be the power, cable, and this is the T connector that'll plug inline with the manufacturer's wiring that goes to the 7 pull trailer connector. Now in order to make our connection, we'll have to remove the manufacturer's connector from the back of the 7 pull.

To do that, there's a gray locking tab that'll need to be unlocked first. We'll pull back on it, sliding it back. Once we slide it back we can press on the locking tab for the connector and remove it from the back of the 7 pull. Now that we have the 2 separated, we'll go ahead and bring the wire down where we can get access to it, and our power wire T connector will match up to the manufacturer's connection. Now before I make this connection, I'm going to go ahead and add some dielectric grease between the 2 connectors to help prevent corrosion over time. Bring in our T connector, plug directly into the manufacturer's wiring harness, and then lock it back down with the locking tab. Then on the other end of our T connector, we'll add some dielectric grease and plug it into the back of the trailer's 7 pull connector. Make sure we firmly press it into place, and then it locks in. Next we'll take the other end of our wiring harness and start routing it towards the front of the vehicle, ultimately into the cab and connecting to our LCD monitor. Note when routing your wires, stay away from any moving components like the steering or suspension, or excessive heat such as exhaust. As we route our wire we're just going to secure it with the black zip ties that we've gone ahead and added to our install. Now to get our wiring harness end into the cabin of the vehicle, we're going to go here through the manufacturer's grommet. This is the parking brake cable grommet that'll allow us to take a utility knife, cut a small slice in the grommet, and then push our wire inside. Now that we've got our wire routed inside, we need to get access to it. We're going to go ahead and remove the floor liner and threshold. To remove the threshold, we'll need to get underneath of it with a flat blade screwdriver, and we're just going to use an interior trim panel tool, and release the fasteners underneath. Look underneath, we have our wire. Now once we get the wire run inside the cabin of the vehicle, we can pretty much run it to where we're going to mount our LCD display. For this application, we're going to mount it above the center console. I'm going to go ahead and remove the trim panel here at the center console. It just has fasteners underneath that hold it in place, so that I can bring the wire underneath the carpeting and out towards the center of the console. With that, we're going to switch over to mounting the LCD screen. For this application we're going to mount it here in the pocket of the dash. Now so we can get the entire mount into the pocket, we're going to need to make an adjustment. On the backside is a screw that we can loosen and move the arm. I'm just going to rotate it to get a little more length, then tighten it back down. Now once we have the bracket set, we're going to go ahead and clean the surface. I recommend to use a little rubbing alcohol or cleaning agent to make sure we get all the oils off of that plastic surface. Remove the adhesive cover, set it into place, and firmly press it in to get a good, cohesive connection. Now we'll take the lead that comes from the monitor and the end that came from the wiring harness, and plug the 2 together. You can see these are matching connectors, so we've got the 2 white arrows that we'll line up, and firmly press them together. Now with our wiring harness routed, connected, we'll need to go ahead and secure it. We'll take the excess, bundle it up, secure it with a zip tie, and feed it underneath the dash. Now once all our wiring is routed, installed and secure, we can reinstall the trim panel. Now with everything installed, we're ready to hit the road. That'll do it for the review and install of the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera, part number HM50002 on our 2013 Chevrolet Silverado. .


Scott

1/8/2020

You can see the sensors rotate downward when the plate is slid into place In the bracket. I had that happen and figured out that each cable to the sensors was caught running over the top of the plate which made it impossible to adjust rotate the sensor and would eventually cut through the insulation. I removed the plate bracket and plate and adjusted the cables to go around the outside edge of the plate. I could finish adjusting the sensors as the instructions recommended. I have a picture available.

Etrailer Expert

Jacob H.

1/9/2020

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