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Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera Installation - 2009 Chevrolet Silverado

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How to Install the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera on a 2009 Chevrolet Silverado

Today on our 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera and Hitch Aligning System. Part number is HM50002. Here you can see as we're backing up to our trailer to keep a good steady look at it. We can get our cameras adjusted just right with the swivel heads. We'll know when our red line starts flashing, our trailer should be directly above our ball. There's no longer a need to have somebody helping you or guiding you back. To switch out of our Hitch Mode into Everyday Mode, simply hit the button on the side, turn the Hitch Line off. That'll give us our normal, everyday kind of deal, which comes in really handy, especially with these big trucks in these tighter parking lots, parking spots, and things like that. It's going to allow you to get safely into your spot without bumping anybody else's vehicle. Perfect. Before we install it, let's take a quick look over the components that we're going to have. Here's our monitor screen. That's going to hook up to the 19 ft 7 in wire that we've got running from the back.

Just a nice, simple plug in. The same is going to go for the wire that plugs into the license plate bracket itself. Just a simple plug in. The ends are different, so we won't get them mixed up. Then a license plate bracket here. Cameras mounted in the center. This is going to be fully adjustable, as we've said, just like our sensors.

Fully adjustable so you can really maximize the potential of the system. Here's what makes this such an easy and simple installation process. We're simply going to plug this directly in line with our 7-way connector. That's going to give us the reverse signal we need, it's going to give us the power, the ground. Everything is going to be right there, easy to set up, and some detailed instructions to help us get everything set and also tell us how to use the system itself. First thing we want to do is get our bracket mounted here on our plate. We want to pull off any existing plates or brackets. We can set that hardware aside.

We've got new hardware. We just want to check and make sure it's going to thread in there and hold properly, which it will in this application. Simply slide our plate right up into our bracket and align our holes. We're going to slide our screws through and get it secured. Right, then we'll have our plug in that's going to go right over the top of the bumper there. We'll make that connection underneath. Now we'll come right here underneath the back of the truck. It's going to be just to the driver side of the license plate is going to be our 7-way plug. There'll be a tab on the outside there.

It's on this top-side. You pinch that in and if you wiggle it, it should come off there. Now we can bring our in-line plug up. We're going to use some dielectric grease. Put it on those contact points. If you don't have any dielectric grease at home, we've got it on our website. Part number is 11755. I'm going to do it on both my connectors there. Then we can slide our OE connector into our new connector there. You want to push it together really firmly. You want to be able to pull on it without it coming out. On the other side it goes right into that other factory connector. All right, that works out well. Now we'll take the plug from our plate. There's going to be a small tab that sticks up on it. It needs to line up with this slot. You can push it together, nice and firmly. We want to be sure that we press it together enough so we can press that O-ring just a little bit to give us the maximum in moisture protection there. Then we'll take our longer wire that's heading up to the front of the truck and let's just route it over toward our frame rail here. With this being a longer truck, we're going to use as much of the wiring as we can here at the rear, stretch it out as far as we can from our plug. Then of course, just have a few zip-ties on hand and we'll start zip tying it off as we run it towards the front. In running our wire up to the front we took advantage a lot of the factory wiring that already ran through there. They're going to have that in a safe area, so we stayed with it. We're going to go right up, had to go outside of the frame rail just over the fuel tank here, because they've got a gooseneck that they've put in place. We had to go outside of the frame rail then we tucked back in over here on this side. You can see where we came out, frame behind our body mounts there, under the fuel filter next behind that body mount. There's a good area right here we anchored up. Just use zip-ties all the way along to try to keep everything nice and snug. Here you can see we're running up above the lines there behind the body mount, and basically right up here beneath the driver side floor board. What we're going to do is go right up through this gromit. There's going to be a cable that passes through it. We just come to the side there, cut a hole large enough in that gromit to pass our wire through, and then once we get everything set up, we can just use a little black silicone sealant. I'm going to take the end of our wire there and see if it'll pass through. Yeah, that'll be good. We should be able to get that from up top. The plug should be right in this area, so let's take out our floor mats and we'll pop up this strip that runs the length here. Just pop that up and out, set it aside. You should be able to pull up that carpeting enough to go underneath that pad. You can see our plug comes up right here. Let's go ahead and pull through our slack. Now we'll reach up here a little bit higher, there's going to be a fuse panel cover. Just pull that off, may need a screw driver to help you separate it. Get that pulled off, and then we'll pop out on this panel just a little bit here. Rectangular slots here, that's where the tabs are going to click in, so let's avoid those. We'll run our wire just right behind this kick panel. Come right up through here, right up behind there, just gently work it, we can get it right around this edge here. It'll allow our wire to come around. We can mount our monitor right up there, where it's easy to see. Let's put our panels back in. We've just got to put our mat back in there. We want to choose an area for our monitor to go. You want it to be easy to see but not in your line of sight. Once we've decided where that's going to go, just take a little bit of rubbing alcohol and really clean that surface off. We'll pull that cover off, position it right where we want it. As you can see the monitor itself is going to have a ball there that's going to help us to adjust the angle up and down. That way we can really fine tune our view. Just a matter of taking our two ends and plugging those together, and loop that wire around to the backside. But that's going to leave a coil hanging out up here. I think what would be better to do in this situation, pop our side panel back off like we did before, pull that back out and just take out our slack, just like this. I'm going to go right back in there and we can just zip-tie this off to the cross brace. Put our panel back on one more time, and we'll be ready to test out our system. Now with our engine running, all we have to do is hit reverse and our screen should come on. As you can see we've got a nice, clear picture there. This is what we call the Hitch Aligner. That's going to give us our green, our yellow, and our red marks as we're getting closer to our hitch. We can also hit the button on the side, turn that off. That's going to give us our distances. The red marks are going to be from 0 out to 1.5 ft when adjusted properly. What we want to do is match up the bottoms of those red lines with the back of the bumper. Yellow is going to give us from 1.5 ft to 3.5 ft. And then the green, that's going to be from 3.5 ft to 5.5 ft. As you can see we're going to have a nice wide view. Of course, you always want to check your surroundings when you're backing up just to make sure nothing's sneaking in on the side on you, or anything like that. As we start getting closer to our object, you're going to notice the cues are slowly going to get louder and louder the closer we get. Now if we don't like the audible cues, we can simply turn those up or down. Here you can hear it in high and then you can customize what you're going to hear all the way down to completely muting the system. Our monitor itself is 2 3/16 in tall and 4 1/4 in wide. That's going to give us a corner to corner measurement of 3 1/2 in. This has a resolution of 480 x 234 pixels and offers 300 TV lines to give us a nice sharp image. Besides just turning our hitch line on and off, we're also going to have settings for brightness, contrast, color, and sharpness, so we can get that exact look we want. If we've got it all messed up, and it's not the way we want it set, we just hit that reset and that's simply going to return it right back to the factory settings. All right, with our camera working as it should that's going to complete today's installation of the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera and Hitch Aligner System. Part number HM50002 on our 2009 Chevrolet Silverado.

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