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Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera Installation - 2008 GMC Acadia

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How to Install the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera on a 2008 GMC Acadia


Today in our 2008 GMC Acadia, we're going to be installing the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera and Hitch Aligner System, part number HM50002.In addition to the backup camera, we're also going to need to use the Hopkins Extension Cable for Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Cameras in a 25-foot length, part number HM3100504061.Next, let's go ahead and show you how the camera works. I will go ahead and put the vehicle in reverse. You'll see as soon as it goes in reverse the backup camera comes on. When you shift it out of reverse, it goes off immediately.Now, we've switched over to the hitch line mode. By simply pushing on the button on the side you can adjust it to hitch line mode on or off. This right here is the standard backup mode.

It has three different tiers or levels for how close you're getting. Green being the farthest away, red being the closest. It's the same whether it's in hitch mode or standard mode.As you can see here, the closer something gets behind you, the beeping gets louder as well as quicker. Now, you can adjust the volume on this. By simply using the knob on the lower left side of the screen, you can mute it or you can just adjust it down in volume if you choose.Before we begin our installation, let's go ahead to kind of give you an overview of what items we're going to be working with today.

This stuff over here is what actually comes with the backup camera kit. You have your license plate holder with the sensors and the camera. We have our video screen or our monitor that will be mounted up on the dash somewhere. We have our wiring harness.This right here is set up if your vehicle has a Factory 7 Way plug. If that's the case, it will just be a simple plug and play on that connection point.

If not, we'll need to do some trimming and tying.Now, this particular vehicle we're working with today does have a Factory 7 Way plug so we'll just be using the simple plug and play method with this Y connector. Now, this connection point right here on the end of it is what I'll connect in the other half of our camera and license plate holder. The other end of the long cable is what will go in to the back side here of our video monitor.Now, because of the design of this vehicle, we're going to need to use this extension cable. This comes in a 25-foot length. Although this may be a little bit extra length from what we actually need, it's better to have too much cable and have to just store some extra somewhere out of sight than to be too short.Now, on this particular vehicle the license plate is in the rear hatch so there is going to be a little more removal of the rear interior to get the wires up into position.

Let's go ahead and begin by disassembling the rear of our interior so that then we can route our wiring.Now, before we begin and take the interior part, this right here is where the camera is going to be mounted. This right here is the license plate area. Now that we've gone over that, let's go ahead and raise the rear hatch. Next, we're going to go ahead and remove some of the interior panels back here. I'm going to go ahead and raise this up. I need to pull each side free.Now, in order to remove this whole tray area, there's a nut here as well as one over here that we'll need to unscrew. It's actually just to long bolt the plastic handle to it. Just go ahead and back this off.Next, we're going to go ahead. We're going to set this whole center section out. Let's go ahead and lift the whole section up. Set it out of the vehicle for now.Next, we're going to go ahead and remove this rear threshold. You can do that by just simply sliding your fingers underneath, gently pulling up. Go ahead and set that out of the way as well.Next, we'll go ahead and show you where we're going to actually use our grommet to pull some wires up into the vehicle as well as out of the vehicle. While we're taking this all apart. This plastic grommet right up in there is where we're actually going to use to route some wires through.Now, that we've got that pointed out, we're also going to need to keep taking some more of these interiors panels apart. Now, over here on the driver's side, we have the lift gate mechanism so we're going to try to stay away from that side just because there's a lot more behind this. We're actually going to go and remove the passenger side interior panels that go up the inside.We're going to go ahead and loosen up and remove these out enough. We're going to end up routing our wire up and under. This rubber boot up here is what will allow us to run our wires out into the rear hatch area and ultimately down and around to our license plate area.We're going to need to remove . There's two screws underneath here. We need to remove the covers first. We'll just need to remove the two plastic covers. They have little tabs on each side and the bottom so if you can just get them to gently push in, they will slide out. Next we'll need to use a Torx head bit. To remove these two, we're using T40 Torx head bit. Once the bolt is removed, it just simply pulls out.Next, we're going to need to pull this panel back a little bit. Now, we have our panel here loose enough. Now, when we get up here around the air bag section we'll be able to pull it back just enough to tuck our line underneath as well as underneath this piece here. Now, that we've gotten it to this point, next let's go ahead. We're going to need to do a few additional pieces here as well as remove our panels from top and bottom.Next, we're going to need to remove this upper panel here. Simply grab it. You can pull down. We'll release the tabs. Now, we've got this upper piece pulled aside. We're going to go ahead and just leave it up here for now. We don't really need to take it completely off. We're going to be pulling our wires up through here, coming out right here and we'll route it around.Next, we're going to need to remove this big center section. Next we'll go ahead, we'll need to remove the center portion of these push fasteners. Just take a small flat-head screwdriver, start them 00:07:07 and then trim panel removal tool or another flat-head screwdriver. Pull the center part out. We're going to need to remove the whole fastener. It should look something like that when you pull it out. Go ahead and do that for the other one as well.I didn't realize we we're going to have to remove this completely because this tab goes underneath this. To remove that, we just simply slid this little clip here. Use the flat-head screwdriver and work it out enough that it would release it off the ball here. We'll just leave this piece hanging for now, still connected, and then finish taking this piece of trim down and set it out of the way.Now that we have the arm out of the way as well as the other panel, go ahead and continue pulling our panel down. Now, I've gone ahead and reached up underneath and there's still electrical connections you're going to have to undo. One that's for this rear trunk hatch button that raises and lowers it and one that controls these two lights here. There's one over here and then there's one over here. Once we get the panel down, we'll show you where it's at.Now, before we can pull the panel down, there's two screws up underneath this one. We're going to need to use a flat-head screwdriver and remove this panel right here. This comes off there like that so there's a bolt that's up in here as well as right here that we'll need to remove. As you're taking this down you're going to probably want to have somebody hold the other side so that it doesn't fall all the way down.This right here is the two connectors that you need to remove. Just simply push in on the locking tab on each and gently pull out. When you put this back up, you want to make sure you reconnect these. Here on the trunk hatch, this one right here is the one connector and over there is the other connector.Now we're going to go ahead. We're going to need to remove a couple more pieces. We're going to undo this electrical connection right here. This is the license plate light connection. We'll push in on the locking tab, gently pull outward. We're going to need to remove the nut here as well as the nut right there. That's just the 10 millimeter socket that we'll be using to do that.Now, with that hardware removed we can go ahead and pull the hatch down. Now, we can go ahead and pull our piece up. We're going to need to remove the rubber grommet here. Let our piece go back up. Now, these two little green tabs, you'll have to work them free from the back side just with the angle that's not really able to be shown with the camera.These two tabs are on the backside. Just a flat-head screwdriver by gently pushing in on either side or a pair of needle-nose and squeezing it while someone works it out on the outside will allow you to remove this.Next, we're going to need to find a location here. We're going to drill a hole in through here so we can route our wire. We'll then tuck it in behind and route it along with these other three wires here, pulling it out right here. We'll then go ahead and splice it in or put a slit here on the grommet so they can be pulled through then we can put our items back in place.Next, we're going to need to drill a hole here on the underside to route our wire up through it. Now, we've done a quick test fit. It's hard to show because you got to hold the hatch down and all three pieces but if you line up with this part of the M, come back right in this area here, it's where we're going to drill our hole.Next, we're going to go ahead and take the rubber grommet that comes with the kit. We're going to slide it over the end of our fitting here. You have to stretch it out. Now, it's on the cable part. This way, once we push our piece through, we can push the grommet and seal it off. We're going to go ahead and put the cable in. Now, we can go ahead push the grommet in place. It sort of look like that. We have our wires routed through underneath.Next, we're going to need to undo the tape here that's keeping the grommet nice and tight. I'm just going to remove the tape and we'll actually put some back on once we get it fixed. Next, we're going to go ahead and we're going to snip the grommet along the edge so that we can feed this one into there.As you can here, the underside is they filled it with a silicone-type sealant. We're just taking our screwdriver and opening up a hole here on the silicone. I'm going to put a little bit of electrical tape over the end of this to protect the little pushpin area so that we don't get junk in it. Gone ahead and taped up the end so we don't get anything in the end. We've gone ahead and pulled our connector through as well. We can then go ahead and put a little bit of electrical tape back on that area there.Go ahead and take our two wires. Feed them back down in. Go ahead and get our grommet back in place. We've gone ahead and put this piece back in. We've added our two screws loosely that hold the camera as well as the license plate holder in place. We'll have to work that grommet in once we get everything situated.This piece here is currently just being held by those two push fasteners. We'll go ahead and reinstall the nut on each side. These right here is our two electrical connections. We'll go ahead and take the license plate lights, plug those back in. This right here is what we'll be connecting in with our 25-foot extension cable.Now, let's go back up, make sure everything looks like it's okay. Now, we've gone ahead and put our rubber grommet back in place. Now that we have our license plate and the camera and everything back into position, go ahead and remove the tape here on our connection point.Next, we're going to need to take the female end here of our 25-foot extension cable. We're going to need to route it up through the rubber boot here, coming out here, routing it around with the wires where we'll ultimately be connecting it in with our camera end of the wiring.If you pull this down just a little bit, you can see in there there's the wiring. We're actually going to go ahead and pull this boot free as well as pulling this boot free. Go ahead and take the one end. Go ahead and pull enough wire up and into position.All right. Now, I have enough wire up and into position. Now, to get the wire through this rubber boot here, it's pretty difficult so we're going to actually use a piece of old airline tubing as a pull wire or a fish wire to help us do that. We're going to feed it through this end, come out down here, we'll tape it off and then we'll pull it back into position.Now, we'll go ahead and tape our extension cable off here to the pull wire. We'll then need to work it back through the rubber grommet. Now that we've got our end of our wire fished through the rubber grommet, go ahead and untape it. We won't need the pull wire anymore for now. Next we're going to need to put our rubber grommet back in position. We'll need to go ahead and take this in, feed it up and come out up here. We're going to need to go through this plastic grommet and then go ahead and put both of our rubber grommets back in place. Just take our wire here and actually going to use the way the wires are already connected to help secure our wire as well as a couple of zip ties along the way help keep it in place.Next, we'll go ahead and take our two ends. We'll line up the white arrow on both sides. We can go ahead and push it together. Now, I'd like to add a little bit of electrical tape to make sure that the connection stays nice and tight. Now that we have all of our wire secure as well as connected, we can go back and trim off any excess zip tie.Next, we're going to go ahead and take our wire here. We're just going to tuck it underneath. Next, we're going to go ahead and we're going to need to connect into here. This right here is our Factory 7 Way plug and we'll need to first remove it by pushing in on this locking tab and then gently pulling outward. So, like that.Next, we're going to need to take the wiring harness with the T connection on the end of it. We're going to need to add it in line here. Now, to do that, or before we do that, we're going to add a little bit of dielectric grease, that's part number 11755, to our connections. This will just protect them and keep them from corroding up over time. We'll go ahead and put it on this side as well. We'll then go ahead and line up the locking tab, put it together, push it till we hear it click or lock into position then take the other half, reconnect it here to our Factory 7 Way plug.Now, before we route the rest of our wires and put our interior back together, it's a good idea to do a quick test to make sure everything is working. The short end of the wiring harness will connect to our 25-foot extension cable, and the longer end here will connect to our monitor.Now, it's a good idea before you put everything back together to test out your system because there's quite a bit you got to take apart. We've taken the line that runs down through the rear hatch, connected it here to the short end of our black and red wire in this, so it goes to this one. Again, lining up the arrows, then taking our monitor, taking the other end of this wiring harness, connected the arrows together.Now, we're going to have someone go ahead and test it. The vehicle is off. We just turned the key to the on position. We'll have someone keep their foot on the brake and shift the vehicle into reverse. Now, you can see when the car is put in reverse, it turns on and you can see what's behind you. Now, when you put it back in park, the camera goes back off.Now, that we've gone ahead and tested out everything and we know that it all works, next we're going to need to go ahead and route these two wires up into the rear trunk area of the vehicle as well as pull the additional wire up in. Now, just up here past the spare tire is a grommet that we're going to use.Right here, this grommet is what we're going to use to feed our wires up and in. I will just go ahead and drill a hole that's large enough for this fitting here to go through, and a little bit bigger because we're going to need to have that fitting as well as an additional wire pulled in through it. We'll add a little sealant to it once we're done with that.Now, we're going to go ahead and take our drill bit. We're going to drill up on underside. Now, we have our hole drilled. I'm going to go ahead and route our lines up and back to where the hole is drilled. Go ahead and use a few zip ties to help secure that off. We'll go on up in and we'll pull our wires up. Now, because this is so large here we probably won't be able to get this to go in there as well. We'll just bunch this extra wire up and zip tie it up out of the way.This right here is our grommet we drilled a hole through. We got our two wires. This wire here will only let you go so far so go ahead and pull all the rest of the slack off from the other one. This is the wire that will run up to the dash area for the monitor. Now, we've gone ahead and bunched up our extra wire here. It's mainly this little black and red wire. We're just going to put a zip tie around it, secure it to this other wire bundle up here. Just keep it up and out of the way. Now, we'll go ahead and snip off any excess zip tie.Next, we can go ahead and take the long end for backup in the trunk area. We're going to reach up. We're actually going to pull up the long one out this way. We have this wire right here. We're going to route it back to the back. We're going to actually be connecting that wire with this one right here. It's our 25-foot extension one.We have extra up here. We're going to need to bunch it up and then zip tie it off. Go ahead and trim off the excess. We can go ahead and tuck that down underneath the covering here. We'll then remove the tape from this end of the plug here. This way it's keeping any dirt from getting in the connection point. Then line up the two white arrows. Once we have it plugged together we can go ahead and put a little bit of electrical tape to make sure it stays nice and tight.Go ahead and add a zip tie or two to help it stay in place. Next, we're going to need to reach up underneath that covering there in the trunk where we have our two wires running through. We're going to go ahead and seal that up with a little bit of sealant. The sealant that we're using today is a Loctite RTV 598 High Performance Silicone Gasket Maker. That's part number LT37467.Once we have our sealant in place, we can go ahead and reinstall the trunk linings here as well as put our rear hatch interior back together. When you put the larger black piece up, make sure that you make your connections again for the electrical.Now, we're going to need to route this up to the front of the vehicle. To do that, we're going to run it along the driver's side to the threshold on both of the doors. We're just going to go along the plastic edge here closing 00:25:45 the door jamb we're just going to tuck it up underneath the plastic. It's going to be like that, up out of the way and hidden.We'll need to repeat that all the way up. We're going to go ahead and get this one, pull it up into the third row here. Now, we've gone ahead and pulled the cable up so it's past this third row seat here. We can go ahead and put this remaining trunk piece back in.I've gone ahead and pulled the plastic cover here in the driver's side door threshold. We're going to need to bunch up some extra wire and tuck it down and behind here. We're going to go ahead and figure out how long a wire we need to route up here. We can go ahead and tuck it in behind. Now, we can take and bunch our extra wire up down in that area there and then go ahead and put our threshold piece back in place.Next, we're going to go ahead and remove this panel right here. We'll just use the plastic trim panel removal tool. There's four little tabs that hold it in place. We're just going to remove that out of the way because on our screen here we have enough extra lead that we'll be able to tuck it down and hide it out of the way.Next, we need to choose the location to mount our backup screen. So, put it up there. Next, we're going to need to connect the wire coming off of our monitor, our wire running up from the rear. Again, you just line up the two white arrows, push it together or put a little bit of tape on it just to keep it nice and tight.We're then going to need to choose a location here on our dash that we'll be attaching our monitor to. Somewhere in this area right there is a pretty good spot on this car because it allows you to see it but yet it's out of your view of your normal driving, but yet when you put it in reverse, you can take a quick glance over and see what's behind you.Now, before we can attach our monitor to the dash, we're going to take a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. We're going to clean the surface area. This way we get nice adhesion with the two-sided tape. Now, we've got the surface clean. We'll go ahead and peel the backing off the two-sided tape on the monitor. We'll go ahead and line it up where we want it. Press it down firmly into place.We can then go ahead, come over here and bunch up the extra wire that we have, put our cover back on. With that, that will do it for the installation of the Hopkins Smart Hitch Back-up Camera and Hitch Aligner System, part number HM50002 as well as the extension cable for Hopkins Smart Hitch Back-up Cameras in a 25-foot length, part number HM3100504061 as installed here on our 2008 GMC Acadia. .


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