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Hopkins Trailblazer Electronic Deer Alert Installation - 2013 Chevrolet Cruze

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How to Install the Hopkins Trailblazer Electronic Deer Alert on a 2013 Chevrolet Cruze


Hi, there's Chevy owners. Today, you're 2013 Chevrolet Cruze, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Hopkins Deer Alert. Hopkins Electronic Deer Alert is going to provide an audible signal to alert them of your presence so hopefully that they don't run out in front of you and cause any type of collision. And it is a fairly loud device. Unlike your deer whistles, which most people can't hear, this one is gonna be audible so I feel like it's probably gonna work for other wildlife than just deer. We'll go ahead and turn it on here so you can hear what it sounds like.

Now we did wire it up to the ignition switch. This way the customer can't forget and accidentally leave it on overnight. It is pretty loud. I think that's probably not gonna happen, but it's always better to not come out to a dead battery in the morning. So we'll turn our key on there.

It also comes with a switch so if you wanted to wire it up on a switch, and I highly recommend that you do since it is so loud, you don't want this to just run the whole time you're driving, probably. Let's go ahead and turn it on here so we can hear what it sounds like. And there you are, you can actually hear this deer alarm. It's mounted up at the front. Let's get a little bit closer so we can take a look at it and hear it going off.

So here we have our deer alert here at the front. It is just held in place with cable ties. You do get cable ties included with it and you can hear it is pretty loud, it's pretty audible. As long as this unit is on, It's just going to repeat this over and over. So if you are in some backwards areas where you're wanting to make sure that all the wildlife is aware of your presence so they don't just accidentally walk out in front of ya, this thing is definitely gonna produce some noise for ya.

Now included with your kit, you are gonna get the switch that we saw inside the dash there as well as the alarm here that's going off. You do also get a mounting bracket, if you wanted to use that for your switch. Our customer wanted it integrated in the dash so we did that for him there, but you do get a bracket with a couple of screws to mount it up on the bottom side. So it's nice, it's a nice sturdy bracket. Now, as far as fastening your connectors together for your wire to hook it up, it does come with wire nuts and I do not recommend using wire nuts with an automotive application. A lot of vibrations, the nut could potentially come off. You've got an exposed wire at that point. It's really just not the best connection. Moisture can get inside of here very easily as well which can lead to corrosion, so I highly recommend not using those. And I also recommend using ring terminals and butt connectors. That's what we're gonna use to install this on here to make sure we've got sealed up connections and ones that are gonna last for a long time. So if you want to take a moment with us, we'll show you how we got it installed on a Chevy Cruze today, but you can use these steps for pretty much any vehicle to get it installed roughly the same way. They're all gonna install about the same. We did hook it to an ignition source, again, what we talked about, so it can't stay powered up after you leave the vehicle, but you could wire it directly to the battery if you want, you do have that toggle switch. We'll begin by mounting up our actual speaker here. This is what makes the noise. So we're gonna mount this here at the front, typically behind your grill is a good place to mount it. So we're gonna get our access back there. We're gonna remove a couple of pins here. Just pop out the center to remove these. We're using our trim tool to assist us. Once we get these popped outta here, that'll probably be good enough with just those two, that'll let us peel this back just a little bit, just enough to get in there to work. I believe what we're gonna do is just mount it right here in this location underneath the paneling. You will get some cable ties included in your kit, so we've already just run one through the backside of it here so that way we can make our connection. It looks to me like one cable tie's not gonna be long enough to go around the area where we're wanting to mount it so we're gonna go ahead and grab another one here 'cause I'm pretty sure we're gonna need it. And I wanna try to get the wiring to go off this direction. So we'll go ahead and hook in our other cable tie here. Wrap it around the component where we intend on it to be mounted up there. And then we can just start securing it up some. There we go. Got it pretty secure. It shouldn't be able to go anywhere. We can now trim off our excess and of course we're gonna route our wires down the edge here over to the side before we put our pins back in. Just like that. We did tuck 'em underneath the attachment points there and then we can come out just right over here. We can even go further down. We'll probably go further down to about there and route it on back from there. We can reinsert our pins now. And if it did come out as two pieces, you can just push these pieces back together and snap it in. So now we can go ahead and hook up the power wire here. Now, normally your power wire would go to just directly to your battery. It does have an inline fuse here that's pre-made onto it so you can just put a ring terminal on the end, connect it to the battery. Our customer though, and I agree with them, I would hook this up if I was putting it on my car the same way, we're gonna hook it to an ignition switch powered fuse. That way when he turns the ignition off, it'll depower it and that's nice because we are gonna install a switch inside to activating deactivate it, but if you forget and leave the switch on and walk away, it could drain your battery down if it's just sitting there running all the time so this is a good way to just keep yourself in check to make sure that it's never gonna accidentally stay powered on. It is a fairly loud device, so it's probably gonna be obvious if you left it on, but you just never know, you get into a rush sometimes. So we're gonna be using this 7 1/2 amp fuse here located right there. This is a fuse number 16. That's only gonna have power when the key is on so that's one we want. You can purchase these harnesses here at etrailer if you wanted to use one. This fuse tab harness, these prongs will poke down where our fuse was and it will have two rows. The bottom row is where you'll put the fuse that you removed and then it'll just go up this over and then back down so that fuse will be like it was normally, but it's also gonna go up into this other fuse and out this wire, which is gonna power ours. So when you're hooking these up, you want this leg here that does not have a wire coming out of the side to be on the side that's hot all the time, so if you we're to turn the ignition on, only one of these two pins where you pulled your fuse out is gonna be hot. We wanna identify that so that way we have upper circuit protection. Now we know on this particular vehicle that it's gonna be the pin towards the front of the vehicle so it's going to insert in this direction here. So now that we know how that's gonna install, we can take our red wire here, crimp it on to the wire over there. And you can see it is pre-stripped. From right out of the box, it comes pre-stripped. There's a lot stripped off there, so we're gonna cut some of this off of there. We don't need all that there. So now we've got that trimmed, we'll just take our wire, poke it into our fuse harness there and crimp it down. All right, so we've got that hooked up there. Our ground wire here we wanna hook to the switch inside the vehicle so that way we can turn it on and off, apply or remove that ground as necessary. So I'm gonna go ahead and reinstall the factory fuse. So we'll just take the little fuse holder, put that back. The factory fuse we're gonna place in the lower section down here and we can go ahead and insert that. We're not gonna install the top fuse just yet. We're gonna wait until we finish installing our components so that way we don't have any live wires while we're working. So the next thing we need to do is we need to mount up the switch and get the wire routed. So here's our switch. It's just a little tiny, just a little on/off switch. One direction's off, one direction's on, just a single pole, single throw, nothing special about it. So it does have two length of wires. The shorter one, we're gonna leave inside the vehicle here. The longer wire we're gonna be routing outside the vehicle to make the connection to the device we just mounted into the hood. So to get it outside, you normally will have a grommet located in this area here in the driver's side in the lower kick area. There is a grommet there. This customer's already modified this vehicle putting the stereo system in, so there was already a pretty big hole in that that grommet for us to pass our wire through. So I shoved a piece of airline tubing through that hole. We're just gonna tape our wire through to this and then pull it back through to get it through 'cause wires tend to bunch up when you try to push 'em through grommets, so you got something a little bit more rigid works really well. At home, you probably don't have airline tubing, but you probably do have a metal coat hanger and those unfold and work really good for feeding wires. So we'll grab our longer end of wire here, line it up with our airline hose and then just use some electrical tape here, taping it to the wire and to the hose. Make sure you go all the way to the end of the wire so it doesn't fold over and get caught. That looks good right there. We'll now head out onto the hood and we'll pull our line and it should pull our wire through. So here we are on the other side, we're just pulling that fish wire and you can see this is his factory, well, not his factory, but this is where the customer installed his stereo wiring so he already had that through the grommet so we just went ahead and utilized that existing hole. All right, and this is plenty. We just need to pull in enough to be able to make our connection. We can always bundle up any excess we got inside the vehicle under the dash. So we'll just get it removed from our airline here. And this black wire that we've got here is just gonna connect to the black wire off the device that we mounted at the front. So now we're gonna take our black wire from our device. We're gonna trim off some of that excess there 'cause it's got way too much. And then the wire that we routed from inside towards the outside, we're gonna take that one as well. Again, trim off some. Got way more strip than I would like there. Okay, so that looks pretty good. We'll then use a butt connector to connect together and I highly recommend a heat shrink butt connector for these ones here outside the vehicle that aren't in any compartment or anything like that. This will ensure that moisture doesn't enter down inside of our connection here and cause corrosion down in the future. Slide our other end in there and crimp that side down. So now we'll grab our heat gun and shrink that down. All right, so now we've got our wire hooked up there. The only thing that's left to really hook up is the other side of the wire on our switch here, the shorter one to ground, but we're gonna get the switch mounted up first so we can kind of figure out how, where we're gonna put that ground based on this location since that wire is so much shorter. So we do get a little mounting bracket here. You can see it's got a couple of holes. You get a couple of screws for mounting it onto the bottom of your dash, something like that. And then you can put the switch in the little bracket there. It's got labels for on and off. Our customer doesn't want to use that though, they want it integrated directly in the dash. So the first thing we need to do is just see where we can mount this 'cause based on the switch here, the threaded portion's gonna poke through so this kind of round surface here is where it's gonna sit. Everything behind this round surface, we gotta make sure we got enough room for the switch to fit back there and these pins don't really bend until you get kind of that point, so you got close to an inch that we need to have behind the paneling. And the other thing that I'm trying to tell, it's difficult to do, but determine that our paneling's not too thick to actually mount the switch in it and we're just gonna hold it up there and it looks awfully close, but I do believe we're gonna have just enough threads poking through to be able to mount the switch right into the paneling. So our intended place that we wanted to mount it is right here in the paneling, about right here in this location. There's a nice flat spot there that we should be able to work with right here. So now we're gonna grab our drill bit. We're gonna use a quarter inch. And if you guys are doing this at home, what you can do is if you're trying to find the right bit, just grab one that is pretty close that fits inside this hole, takes up most of the space. As long as it does that, then you got a pretty good bit that should work 'cause we know this is the right size hole to drill right there in this bracket. So now I'm just trying to find that flat spot, making sure I've got that flat spot lined up 'cause there is behind this paneling, it has braces kind of ribs built into it, similar to what you see right here for structural support so we wanna try to find a flat area 'cause those ribs are gonna make it stick out and be thicker and make it more difficult for us to get this mounted in here. So this feels like a pretty good spot right there. Move your hand out of the way and drill on through. And I'm just folding over the backside. This plastic tends to kind of burst out towards the back so you can kind of fold it in the hole and run your bit in and out a few times to knock off those burrs. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna keep probably all the washers off of this side 'cause we know we're gonna need probably as much length as possible to fit through here and be able to install our nut. We're gonna push it through and test it first just to see how it feels, but we probably will. I need to do that. We're also gonna make sure we feed the switch behind the paneling here so that way we can hide all the wiring in there when we're done. Also on these switches, the way what's on and off, this little guy here, the switch, it's in a straight line like that so it's right now, since it's down here, that means that the other end is up, which means it's connecting the two pins together so this is currently the on position. That would be the off position. So I want, when I mount the switch, well, we're probably have to mount it sideways, honestly, just 'cause of the way the paneling is back here, it's gonna have to be mounted sideways, not up or down, so we'll just have to put a label on it. We can try and see if we can get it up and down, but I don't believe it's gonna fit that way in our paneling. Oh, actually look at that, it does fit that way. All right, so since it does fit, we're gonna figure out which way it is again. This is how we want it, that way up is on. And you can kind of get a visual cue because one of these, on one side of your threaded portion you're gonna have a spot where it's just straight as per the little alignment piece on your washer right there, it's got a little alignment, little tab there. So we know that we want that to be facing down if we want on to be up. So we'll get that pushed through there. We can then place on our, I don't think we're gonna be able to get the flat washer on there as well as our star washer, so I think we're just gonna go star washer and then nut. And that's cutting it kind of close. All right, we we're able to get that on there. That looks pretty good. We'll snug it down a little bit more, and actually after snugging it down, it does look like we got quite a bit of threads through, so what you can do is after you snug it down a little bit like that, that was able to pull it through further than I was able to push it by hand, but we can now go ahead and install our washer onto here. So we'll slide our washer on it. Now this is an optional thing that you can do if you want. If look at the washer, it does have a small little tang on it there and that way when you tighten this down, it digs into whatever surface this is, and that'll prevent it from wanting to rotate so that way it stays in that up and down position. All right, we just gonna make sure we got the proper orientation with it up and down. And then just go ahead and snug it on down. We'll come back with a small fastener and tighten it up. I believe that's going to be an eight millimeter so we'll do that here in a minute, but let's get our other wire hooked up and then we'll finalize snugging that down when we test it out. So let's get our small wire here. Here's our small one, our shorter one. This one needs to go to ground so first thing I'm gonna do is I'm just kind of looking around, seeing if I see a factory fastener that we can utilize for ground rather than to drill any new holes. And I'm not seeing any inside this compartment here so we may take a look and see if there's some underneath, try to reuse one of those if we can. If we can't, we'll just use a self-tapping screw and run it into two-metal surface. So we'll take this end here, strip off the excess like we did with the other ones. Now you don't get a ring terminal in your kit so we're gonna attach a ring terminal to it to give us a better connection than just trying to run a screw over a bare wire. I mean that will work, but it's probably not the best installation for longevity. So a ring terminal here, this is a bit larger of a size than you really need, but it'll be better than no ring terminal. So we'll crimp that onto there. And we did find a factory fastener so we're gonna remove that with our 10 millimeter socket here. We'll take our ring terminal, slide our ring terminal on that bolt and then we're just gonna reinstall this bolt. And then I'm gonna try and orient the angle, the ring terminal so it's in a kind of a pleasing position where you don't really see it. And that should work out nicely right there. So what we got left here is all this wire we got in here. We're gonna bundle all this up behind the dash using some cable ties. You do get a few cable ties in your kit so you can utilize those to secure it to factory wiring up there, but before we secure any of our wiring down and stuff like that, you should probably test it out to make sure everything's gonna work. So we don't have our fuse currently inserted. I'm gonna go ahead and turn the switch to the off position. We are gonna finish snugging this down and it was an eight millimeter in size that we we're gonna use there. So I'm just gonna use a socket in my hand. You don't wanna overtighten this. If you use a tool, you could overtighten it pretty easily. And honestly, you can overtighten it by hand with the socket, so just get it snug to where it feels good, where it doesn't feel like it's flopping around in there when you turn it on and off. So I've got it off. We're gonna head outside, insert our fuse, come in here and then turn on our switch, verify it works. If everything seems to work, then we'll clean everything up. All right, so we pulled our fuse out there so we can insert one in the top here. We're also gonna use the 7 1/2 amp in there. You will have to provide your own since the device has an inline fuse built into it so it doesn't come with this type of fuse. And then we'll just reinstall our covering here. So now we do have to turn the ignition key on because of the way that we wired it, and then we'll turn our switch on and it should activate. So the ignition is now on and now I'm turning on the switch. And there's our deer alarm. You can hear it activating, scaring away them deer. And that completes our installation of Hopkins Electronic Deer alert on our 2013 Chevrolet Cruze..


Info for this part was:

Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H

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