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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2014 Ford F-150

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2014 Ford F-150


Rate your transcript OrderClientKevin BrossRef #20622Order #TC0848265130 Today on our 2014 Ford F150 EcoBoost Crew Cab, were going to be installing the Hopkins Custom Taillight Wiring Kit for towed vehicles, part number HM56000. Now, were going to go ahead and start here at the rear of the vehicle. Now, heres what were going to be installing on our vehicle. This side here, well be connecting in with the backside of the driver side taillight assembly. This half here, well be connecting in over on the passenger side. Well be then routing the wiring with the 4-flat on it up to the front of the vehicle.Now, were going to need to remove both the taillight assemblies.

Were going to go ahead and start here on the driver side by removing these two screws, one there and one there. Well be using an 8-milimeter socket to remove the two screws. With the two screws removed, well need to gently slide the taillight assembly out of its tabs. Theres two tabs up here on the front half. Now that we have our taillight assembly loose from the body, were going to need to disconnect the wires here on the backside.

Now since on this particular taillights, the top section and the bottom section do exactly the same functions, running, tail as well as brake.When we connect our wiring harness in, were going to go ahead and use the top connection to add our T-connector in. To make things a little easier, were going to go ahead and disconnect all three plugs by simply squeezing in on our locking tab gently pulling outward. Go ahead and set that taillight assembly aside for now. Well go ahead over to the passenger side where well remove that taillight assembly as well. Now, were over here on the driver side.

Were going to take our connectors. They need to be routed over to the passenger side. Feed it in through here. There is a hole. You reach in here that youll push the wires down through, and you pull them out from the underside.Next, well go ahead and take our 4-flat wiring.

Were going to route that the same way down to the hole. Lets now go ahead and take one-half of our T-connector. Were going to connect it here to the top portion of our taillight assembly. Both this plug and this plug are the same, and they do the exact same functions. If you wanted to make the bottom portion of your taillight assembly do the lighting functions, you could do that as well. Were going to go ahead and do the top section. Go ahead and put it in place, so make sure that we hear the locking tab click. Go ahead and use a piece of two-sided tape to secure our converter box right here to the interior panel.Now, to make sure that our box and the two-sided tape stick well to the interior of the truck bed here, were going to use a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. Go ahead and clean the backside of our converter box. Now if you dont want to use the two-sided tape, you could also use a few zip ties, and go through the loops here, and secure just some of the factory wiring. Peel off the backside on one side of this tape, and well push that onto the backside of our converter box. We then go ahead and reach in, and clean the area where were going to stick the box. Then go ahead and peel the backside off of the tape. Go ahead and push the box into place.Now, were ready to reconnect the taillight over here on the driver side. Again, when you push this in, you want to make sure that you hear them click into place. Now, well go ahead and reinstall our taillight assembly. Next, well go underneath the vehicle, and route our T-connector over to the passenger side. Our wires that we need to route over to our passenger side are all loose here. Just to make things a little bit easier, were going to go ahead and take some electrical tape. Just help tape them together by putting a loom of tape around them every foot or so. Next, were going to go ahead and take our wiring harness. Feed it up. Work our way across.Now, we got our T-connector routed across the back of the vehicle. Now, we went through a few sections of the underside of the bed where there are some channels and some other wires that already run through, as well as use some of the factory wiring to help support the wiring. Keep it up out of the way. Now that weve got it pulled over here the passenger side, well again feed it up here through the hole with the factory wiring leading up to the taillight assembly. Well go ahead and push both pieces through. Well go up on the side, and pull the wires up into position.Now, well go ahead and hold our wiring on up into position. Go ahead and connect it here again to the top light section of our taillight assembly, so its this top plug here. Now we have some extra wire, so were going to go ahead and use a zip tie to help secure it off, so we dont have a whole lot of extra wire just dropping back down. Now that weve got the extra wire secure, well go ahead and trim off the excess zip tie. Now, were ready to make our connections to the backside of the taillight assembly. Now on this one, youll notice we actually pulled the whole reverse valve out. You could do that on anyone of them. It makes it easier to get the locking tabs out.Go ahead and put that one back in. Plug the bottom connector back in, and well plug the top connector in. Now, we can go ahead and reinstall our taillight. Next, were going to need to route our 4-flat wire up to the front of the vehicle. Well go ahead and show you the path we took to do this. Now in routing your wire to the front of the vehicle, you want to make sure you stay away from areas that have moving parts, may become hot, or have sharp edges as all of these could easily damage the wire. Well also be using a few zip ties along the way to help secure the wire. Now that we have our wire routed and secure, well go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie.Now to make things a little bit easier, Im going to go ahead and remove this lower air valance. To do that, theres a nut right here as well as over here. Go ahead and just set that aside for now to give us a little more working room. Go ahead and take our 4-flat. Pull it out the front there. Theres a couple different ways you could end your 4-flat wiring. You could take your white wire, the ring terminal and just ground it, and secure your 4-flat, and just use a jumper to your RV or motorhome. In our case, were going to be switching this wiring over to a 4-round. Were actually going to be cutting off this 4-flat and wiring in a 4-round. The 4-round that were going to be using is part number PK11410.Now, it depends on your specific application which one youll need. On our particular application, were going to need the 4-pull round. Now if the 4-pull flat is okay for your particular vehicle, you can stay with that. You can skip the following, and just secure the 4-pull flat, the ground wire, and test the connections. Were going to be replacing this 4-flat end with a 4-round end like this. Its got four prongs in it instead of being flat. Well need to go ahead and take the little set screw out of here, so that we can remove the center section. Now, were going to go ahead and cut the 4-flat off that comes with the kit.Next, well need to go ahead and cut each of these three wires apart. We also have our white wire. Next, were going to need to take the main housing for the plug, and feed all of our wires through it. Now, weve gone ahead and connected our wires here at the back of our plug. Just take the little set screw, loose them up. Put your wire in after you strip some back. Tighten it down. Now this right here is the top set screw location, so it lines up with the top of the plug. It will go back in like this. Now, lets go ahead and give you a quick rundown on what wire does which.Now when youre looking at it straight on, this is the top. The top left is the green wire which is the right brake and turn signal. The top right wire is the brown wire which is the taillights. The lower right wire is the yellow wire. Thats your left brake and turn, or your driver side. The left lower wire is the white wire which is the ground. Again, its oriented just like this with this hole here on the top is where the set screw goes in. Go ahead and put our plug back into position. Put our set screw back in. We then take a little bit of electrical tape, and tape up the backside of our plug here.Now in order to mount our 4-round, were going to be using this bracket that came with our base plate kit which is part number BX2635 for this vehicle as well as a long bracket that comes with a hose clamp and a hardware to attach these two together. Now, this long bracket is part number 118136. Now this vehicle here is an EcoBoost vehicle, so we have this piece of metal that runs across just behind the bumper here that were going to be able to use this bracket like this. Were going to put the bracket from the base plate in our long bracket together, the hardware that comes with the long bracket, just a screw. You got a locking-style nut. Go ahead and tighten everything down.Now this bracket here, the long bracket will actually attach to this metal portion with the supplied hose clamp. Now you can see that this is a little bit low, so were going to go ahead and undo the bracket, and bend it a little bit, so that it brings it up straight. Well go ahead and get an idea about how far back we need to put a bend on it. All right. Go ahead and take the bracket back off, and go put a slight bend in it. Now, weve gone ahead and taken a bracket. Put a little bit of a bow to it or a bend to it. Now, well go ahead and test it up there again. As you can see here, weve brought the bracket up, so it will sit a lot higher. It will sit something like that.Now, well go ahead and put the hose clamp back on it again. Now our excess hose clamp here, well go ahead and just snip off with a pair of tinsnips. Then, were ready to go ahead and connect our plug to the bracket. Well be using a machine screw that comes with our base plate kit, that BX2635 kit, flat washer, and a hex nut on the back of each side. Go ahead and tighten everything down. Now, were going to need to take our white wire with the ring terminal on it. This is the ground. Were going to need to ground it to the frame of the vehicle. We will get it up in here. Well be using a self-tapping screw.Go ahead and take a zip tie, and secure up any excess wiring we may have. Well then go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie that we may have used to secure extra wire. Next, we can go ahead and put our lower air dam back in place. Now, were ready to go ahead and test out our wiring on our vehicle. That will do it for our installation of the Hopkins Custom Taillight Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56000 on our 2014 Ford F150 EcoBoost Crew Cab. .


Questions and Comments about this Video


Terry
Installed this kit how do I check it out to see if it works
Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

You will need to apply power to the 3 exposed pins (the 4 pin location that has the "covering" is the ground). When you apply power to those pins have someone standing at the back of the vehicle to verify that everything is working correctly. If you have another vehicle with a functioning 4-Way you can use an extension like part # HM48235 to test.

Reply from Terry

I did this applied power no lights in the back of truck i believe I got a defective wiring setup thanks

Eustice S.
I purchased Part # 56000 for my Ford Platinum F-150 5.0,2014, it is not an eco boost. Will I have any problems installing the unit on my truck. There appears to be no difference in an eco boost and my 5.0 V8. Need to know soon.
Etrailer Expert
Reply from Rachael H.

I checked our fit guide and the Hopkins # HM56000 is confirmed as a fit for the 2014 F-150's with or without the EcoBoost option.

Info for this part was:

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Employee Cole B
Installed by:
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