Hopkins Multi-Tow Trailer Connector Installation - 2016 GMC Canyon

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How to Install the Hopkins Multi-Tow Trailer Connector on a 2016 GMC Canyon

Today on your 2016 GMC Canyon, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Hopkins Trailer Wiring Kit. This is going to make a great replacement for an existing one that may be damaged or an upgrade if your truck doesn't have one from the factory. With this kit, you'll receive both a seven-way connector, as well as a four-way connector, so you'll have various options to hook up to whatever trailers you might have. If you have a smaller trailer, they don't typically have trailer brakes, so you just need the lighting components for it and our four-pole puts out nothing but lighting, so you'll likely be using this one. But if you've got a medium or larger size trailer, or maybe a camper, they often have electric brakes and they'll use your seven way connector here, which has not only your lighting outputs, but your charge line to charge the batteries on your trailer, as well as a trailer brake output.It's custom designed for your Canyon, so it'll fit directly into the mounting location in your bumper, whether you're replacing an existing one that looks very similar to this, or if you've just got a dummy plug here. That's just a plastic cover.

That'll pop right off and this connector will just snap right into its place. If your vehicle didn't come with a factory seven-pole at the back, it's okay. Your truck is pre-wired for it. You just need to install a harness that'll plug into the connector. The harness here that's plugged into our connector does come included with the connector, so you've got everything you need to splice it in and get it up and running.

Now, one of the things you might consider with this kit though, is upgrading from the butt connectors that come included with it, which are just your standard butt connectors to heat shrink butt connectors like we have here, since this is going to be outside the vehicle.This'll ensure that our wiring is moisture free and ensures a long lasting connection. If you want some heat shrink butt connectors, you can go ahead and add those to your cart at checkout, as we've got those available here, at etrailer.com as well. One of the things that I like about the seven-way connector that comes included with it is that it uses a standard female connection point, here on the back, so if you do have an existing seven-way on your Canyon and you just have a damaged connector, you can pop out your old one and your factory wiring will plug directly into your new connector. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's go over the installation together so you can have the confidence to do it at home. We'll begin our installation underneath the vehicle.

Over here on the driver's side, you'll have a harness that's attached to the frame. It just has wire ends that are sticking out that are covered up with heat shrink.We'll need to get all of these wires out and strip them all back so we can make our connection. They're not sticking out quite far enough for us to just use it as is, so I am going to peel the tape off a little bit and pull them out of this conduit so we can access those. It may be necessary to use this razor knife to cut the tape so you can get it open. There we go.

Now we'll just take our strippers and each one of these, we need to strip back as we're going to connect all of them to our new harness and connector. Due to the heat shrink being on there, you might have a lot that comes off. No big deal, you can just trim off that excess. We're going to go ahead and repeat this for all the wires that we've got here until they're all stripped back. Once you've got all these wires stripped back, we'll take the harness that comes in our kit, and we're going to strip back all the wires that are exposed on it as well.I've gone ahead and got all these stripped back, as well as the wires on the vehicle. The one thing I wanted to address with our white wire. It has a ring terminal on it and, typically, you use a self tapping screw to just run this into the frame, but since our Colorado has all the factory wiring we need, there's already a ground wire back there, so we're just going to cut this back to the same length as the rest of our wires so we can connect it to the factory wire. We're just going to trim it and then, just like we did with the other wires here, we're going to strip it back. Once we've got this stripped back, we can start making all of our connections. One of the things that you'll notice in your kit is that it does come with included butt connectors, but these butt connectors that come included with it are just your regular old style.Since our wiring's outside the vehicle, moisture could potentially enter into the ends of these, which could corrode our wiring, so we're going to be upgrading from the ones that come in our kit to heat shrink butt connectors. We're using some blue and some yellow. You can get those at etrailer as well when you make your purchase, so you can keep everything sealed up here on the outside. We'll be using the yellow for our thicker wires, like the white, blue and red here, so three of those and the blue for our thinner wires, see those remaining four there. Now we're going to start making our connections and most of these are going to be just color for color. All the ones that we have here are going to be color for color. Our brown is going to go to brown, our yellow is going to go to yellow. Our blue goes to blue, and our green goes to green.Where they differ slightly, we've got a gray wire on our factory harness. That's going to go to the purple or violet wire that's on our harness. The black wire is the ground wire that we we're talking about, so that'll hook to our white wire and the orange wire here is going to connect to our red wire. We're going to go ahead and just make those connections now. We use our larger yellow ones for the larger wires, grip that onto our harness, and we'll crimp the other end onto our factory wiring. I have to give it a little twist if the wires are a little messed up. And we're going to repeat that process of crimping our wiring on for all the rest of ours. We've now got all of our wire connections made, so we can go back now and shrink down all of our butt connectors. We're going to be using a heat gun to do so.You want to heat them up until the heat shrink is all the way around the wire and it starts to get kind of a clear look to it and not the foggy look that it had before. I'm just going to use some electrical tape to tape the conduit back up where I had cut it. We can now take our factory connector or your dummy plug out, depending on what you're doing with your truck here. Since we're taking a truck that didn't have any wiring, we're just going to be removing the dummy. But if you're replacing an existing unit, you'd pull this one out in the exact same way. You've just got to make sure you unplug your connector first. There's a couple of tabs here on the back. In a lot of cases you can just pull it and it'll come out, but if it seems to be getting stuck, just give those tabs a little bit of a pinch and they will work out by the clip there, so you can pull it out.Here you can see a dummy plug versus a factory connector. They look basically the same on the backs they're going to come out and the only thing you just need to remember is you'll have a connector plugged into it, you'll want to unplug that. Another nice thing is if you are just replacing this, all the splicing that we just did, you wouldn't need to do because your connection that you did unplug from here, we just plug directly into your new seven-pole. That being said, though, if you are just replacing your factory connector due to damage, if you had any damaged wires, you could replace your end with the included pigtail if you need to. In either case, we're going to take our new connector now and we're going to slide it right into place. It just pushes right in. Once it clicks in, kind of give it a tug, just to make sure it's all the way in there.Before plugging your connector in, you can see there is already some grease in there, but you'll receive terminal grease in your kit. You'll want to use this as well and get it all up inside of each of those little holes there, kind of smeared around. This is just going to keep out moisture to prevent corrosion. Then, we can plug our connector right in to our seven-way. Make sure that it does click in all the way, so kind of give this a little tug on the back once we know we've got it clicked in. Now we can go ahead and test everything out. One of the easiest ways to do this is just to plug it into your trailer and verify that everything's working, or you can plug in a tester like we've got here. If you'd like a tester, you can pick one up at etrailer.com here. We've got it plugged into our seven-pole and we can already see right away that we've got battery voltage, so we know that our charge line on our seven-pole's working properly.I'm going to go ahead and run all the lights now and we'll verify that all those are working. You want to make sure you have your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps, and we also hooked up our reverse light circuit. I don't have the vehicle started. I've just got it with the key turned on. I'm going to go ahead and put it in reverse and you can see here on the tester that it lit up, so we know that all of our lighting signals are working properly. Now, the only thing left that we didn't test on here is the brake controller output and that's because our customer doesn't have a brake controller. But if you did and you have it installed, you can just hit your manual slider. If you had a tester here, you'd see the voltage shoot up when you hit the manual slider. If you don't have a tester and you're just using your trailer, you can maybe drive with the trailer attached and use your manual slider and feel the resistance of the brakes applying to verify that it's working.That completes our look at Hopkins Trailer Wiring Kit on our 2016 GMC Canyon..

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