bing tracking image

Hopkins Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2017 Jeep Wrangler

content loading

Customers compare HM56200 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Hopkins Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Hopkins Custom Taillight Wiring for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56200. Here's what our wiring looks like fully installed. I do want to mention, we did cut off the four pole end that came with our kit, and we decided to put on a six pole round that is sold separately. Our wiring is going to let us flat tow our Jeep and safely get down the road and have all the required lights such as our clearance lights, brake lights, and turn signals.This is going to wire up our vehicle to accept lights that are coming from our RV and control the lights on our vehicle, so that when we're driving down the road everybody will know what's going on, whether we're slowing down and hitting the brakes or turning on our turn signals. Our wiring is custom, which means it's going to be made particular to your vehicle, and the connection points are going to connect behind the taillights here. It's also going to have a converter box with diodes in it that are going to protect our vehicle's electrical system from any feedback or anything that may go wrong on the RV end.Now, when we're not flat towing our Jeep, our Jeeps light's are going to work just like normal and they're not going to be affected at all.

What I really like about this wiring kit compared to others is that it is a custom kit, so there's no splicing into the wires, no cutting of wires unless you're changing the end on the connector. To get it installed is a simple plug and play installation. Now that we've gone over some of the details, let's show you how we got that installed.To begin our installation we're going to need to remove our taillights. Now, there's going to be two screws holding the taillight in place, and they're going to be the ones on the inside. I'm going to be using a Philips bit to remove those.

Once we have those two screws removed, we're going to go ahead and pull our taillight out, and we can go ahead and unplug the wiring. Now, there's going to be a small tab. You'll want to push on that, and then we'll release the plug. We're going to do the same thing on the passenger side.We're going to start on our harness with the side that has the yellow wire in the T connector. Now, I do want mention if you did notice, this already has a four pole wiring kit on there.

That's why there's already a T connector inside. Before we make our connection here with the yellow wires, going to take a little bit of the terminal grease that they give us in our kit and we're going to put it inside the connector, which is going to help with corrosion buildup and any moisture, keeping it from getting inside. Just put a small amount of grease in there. Then we can take the female plug and plug it into the male plug, and eventually this will be plugging into the taillight.For now, we're going to take the rest of our harness, the other T connector, and our four pole wiring, and we're going to drop it down through our taillight down underneath the vehicle. Just take your time, start feeding everything through until you can see to the bottom, then you can start pulling the excess out.

Now, for our converter box, going to go ahead and take one of the provided zip ties, you want to run it through the tab on the side and then if we look inside our taillight housing in the body here, there's a panel right here where there's just enough where I can get my zip tie around and tie my converter box to that panel. Again, I'm just going to put a small amount of dielectric grease in my connector before I plug my taillight back in place. You can go ahead and plug this side in, make sure everything locks, and we'll line up the tabs and reinsert the screws.Now, our orange, gray, and brown wire with the T connector on it, we're going to have to route it from over here on the driver's side and we're going to want to go across to the passenger side, because eventually we're going to be plugging this at the passenger side taillight. Now, everybody's going to do this a little bit differently, but just want to mention you want to stay away from any heat sources like the exhaust or any moving parts like the suspension back here. I'm going to go ahead and run my wire and then I'll show you how I routed it.I ran my wire, had it come down here and I went right across the top of my bumper beam here, across the top of my hitch, zip tying it along the way, and then ended up bringing it over. I went around the rear body mount here, and I had it come back around the outside of my frame right here. Now, there's going to be a panel on the bottom just like we had on the other side, right underneath our taillights.Now, we're going to need to remove this plastic panel, and there's probably going to be some insulation in there that we're going to have to break away as well. Now, the easiest way that I found to get that panel loose is if you take a pry bar or a screwdriver and you drive it upwards, it'll break some of that insulation up and the panel will come loose. I'm going to go ahead and start pulling some of that insulation out of the way. It'll just break apart when you pull it out.To help us get our wires up from underneath the vehicle, I'm going to take a piece of air line tube that I had lying around, and you can use whatever you have available, even if it's a coat hanger. Just something that's going to hold its shape. Now, I'm going to route this air line tube down through the hole in the body, and we'll route it down until it comes down and I can meet up with the wires underneath. Here's the end of my air line tube coming from underneath my Jeep. Just going to take a little bit of electrical tape, I'm going to tape my connector to my air line tube, that way I don't have to worry about it falling or dropping when I start pulling it up.Start pulling our wires up, and we're going to want to pull all the excess out. Then we can pull our air line tube off. We can take the female plug on our harness, put a little bit of dielectric grease on there, plug it into the male harness on our vehicle. Now, that panel that we pulled out, we are going to have to put a small notch in it so that our wires can get through. I'm going to be using a rotary tool with a cutting disc. I'm just going to cut a small notch in there, just enough so that my wires can fit through there. I'm going to feed my wires through that notch just to make sure that I have enough room. Then we can reinstall that panel.Now that we have all those wires tucked up and the panel back, I'm going to take my excess wire here and I'm going to bundle it up. I'm going to take a zip tie and tie it all together, that way I don't have to worry about it getting caught on anything, and it'll be a nice little neat bundle. Put a little bit of dielectric grease in our taillight connector, and then we can plug in our harness to it. Tuck all our wires back in and we can remount our taillight.Our next step is going to be running our four pole to the front of our vehicle. Now, everybody's going to do it a little bit differently. Again, you just want to stay away from heat sources or any moving parts. I'm going to go ahead and run this and then I'll show you how I routed my wires. I ran my wire along the frame, went over the rear axle and the spring, and zip tied it to some existing lines. Came down, and over this cross member here, and then I actually tucked my wire behind this heat shield where it's covering our brake lines here, and zip tied it along the way. Then finally I have it coming right here.Now, we're going to be using the same method to get a wire up to the engine bay. Now, the only reason why I'm taking the wire to the engine bay is because I do need to tap into these wires for the braking system. If you don't have to tap into your wires, you can just run it straight up. I went ahead and dropped my air line down, just like we did for our taillights. I'm going to attach it there, run it up, and then I'm actually going to run it back down right here in the front, so I can mount it up front. Put a little bit of electrical tape on my connector, my air line tube, and we don't have to worry about it dropping. Start pulling our connector up and we're going to pull this up and make sure that you pull all the excess wire out. You don't want anything getting caught when we're driving down the road. I'm going to go ahead and zip tie this to something so I don't have to worry about the wire falling back down.I put my zip tie, just one of these brake lines, just to help it from falling down. Now we're going to take our four pole end and run it back down to the bumper and towards the center. Now, you can use the same technique that we've been using with the air line tube or coat hanger or whatever you have been using, or since it has a little bit of structure to it, we can try to drop it down just by itself. Just want to make sure that you're going to avoid any moving parts, stay away from the fan, and the belt especially.Now, since our connector is rather large, you may have to recheck and grab the wire and help its way down. Now, in order for us to get our wiring right here, we're going to have to go through our skid plate. Now again, I'm going to take a piece of air line tube, and coming from the back I'm going to come out this hole right here. That way I can feed it through and I can hopefully hide my wires behind my base plate here, and then I just have it coming up right over here.In our particular application, we're not going to be using the four pole end and we're going to be switching it out, so I'm going to go ahead and cut the wires off at the very end of our connector, and it'll make it a little bit easier to route my wires through that hole in the skid plate. Just going to cut each one of our wires pretty close to the connector so we don't have to worry about losing too much of our wire, and then we can start routing the wires through.Now, our white wire is not attached because that's going to be our ground wire, so we're just going to set this aside for right now. Then we can start feeding our green, yellow, and brown wires through. We're going to come up behind the skid plate, and we're going to try to reach for this hole right here so we start routing our wires through. We'll pull all of our excess wires out. We're going to run it along behind the base plate here so that our wires will end up right here. Now, to help conceal my wire and protect it, I'm going to be using some wire loom. If you need to pick some up, you can pick some up on our website using part number 7509-1. That's going to be by the foot.Just take our wire loom and I'm going to run it in just a little bit past my skid plate here. I'm going to estimate about how much I need, because we don't need all this wire so I'm going to give myself a little bit of extra, and then I'm going to cut my wire and my loom back right about here. Then we'll want to go ahead and start putting our white wire in there as well. I'm actually going to take, then with the ring terminal I'm going to push it back into the skid plate area. Going to push the loom back into the skid plate and pull out my four pole wiring. That way I have enough to work with, and I can start wiring my plug up.We're going to need to separate our wires here, so you really want to very carefully cut in between each wire, and try not to cut the wire itself. A small notch in the wire, and you should be able to start pulling them apart once you get a little bit to work with. Go ahead and strip back just a little bit on each wire. Now, on our application we're going to be using a Blue Ox six pole round plug. If you need one of these or you want to use one of these in your application, you can pick one up using part number BX294-0902.We're going to take the dust cover off the back, and we're going to slide our wires in the dust cover. We'll want to leave ourselves plenty of room, and then we can start focusing on the back of our plug. We can go ahead and start with the very top one, and that's going to be labeled TM or trailer marker. We can go ahead and undo the screw on top. You don't want to take them out, because these are very small and they're very easy to lose.We're going to take our brown wire, and that's going to go into the TM because that's going to be for trailer marker, and that's for our taillights. Go ahead and tighten the screw down. Our next one is going to be labeled GD and that's for our ground, and that's going to be the white wire that has that ring terminal that we just sent back in. The next one right here is going to be labeled LT, and that's going to be for our left turn signal. We'll take our yellow wire and repeat the same process. Finally, we should have one more wire left and it would be our green wire here. We're going to be looking for the terminal that says RT, or right turn. Put our wire in and secure it down.Now, before I slide my dust cover on, what I like to do is take some dielectric grease and I like to fill up that entire area and the boot 00:13:59 up, and we won't have to worry about any moisture getting inside of there. Now, Hopkins does give you some dielectric grease with the kit, but I don't know if you're going to have enough to do what I'm doing right here. If you do need to pick up some you can pick up a tube of dielectric grease on our website using part number 11755.Going to take the dust cover, slide it over, and I'll take my wire loom, I'm actually going to put it in the back of there, and then secure everything down with a little bit of electrical tape. This will help keep the dust cover on, as well as keep the wire loom from moving around. We can tuck our wire back behind our base plate here, and we can line up our bracket with the bracket that's on our base plate. We can take our self tapping screws.Now we have one more connection we're going to have to make. We're going to have to take our ring terminal here with the white wire, that's going to be our ground wire, and we're going to have to attach this to a metal point. Now, they do provide us with a self tapping screw in our kit. We're using a 1/4 inch nut driver to put it into place. I'm going to be mounting it right here against the frame, just going straight up.I got my tester plugged in so I can make sure that all my lights are working properly. I'm going to grab an extra set of hands so they can let me know if they're coming on in the back. All right, so if I turn on the taillights you can see the taillights are working. The right turn signal and the left turn signal, we can see is working. Now that we know that all our lights are working properly, we're ready to hit the road. That'll finish up our look at the Hopkins Custom Taillight Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56200 on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Bradley B
Installed by:
Bradley B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.