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HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Brake Actuator Installation - 2020 Grand Design Momentum 5W T

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How to Install the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Brake Actuator on a 2020 Grand Design Mom


Hi there trailer owners. Today on your 2020 Grand Design Momentum, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Hydrastar's 1600 PSI Disc Brake Hydraulic Actuator. This is what our actuator looks like when it's installed. It provides up to 1600 PSI of pressure to apply the brakes on your trailer. This is an ideal solution if you're going with an electric over hydraulic setup and converting your trailer from drum to disc brakes. 1600 PSI is going to be more than enough for a disc brake setup.

This actuator here is pretty small. You can see the footprint it takes up. It's not very big. We're able to fit it right behind our batteries. The wiring for it provides you with all the necessary circuits.

You got your power ground, brake signal, and your breakaway switch. It does have a dedicated wire for your breakaway switch. You want to keep that in mind, that is slightly different than a typical electric brake installation where you just hook up your breakaway switch to your brake signal wire.This uses DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid to pressurize the brakes. Whenever a signal is sent down our brake signal wire, that'll activate our system. One of the things that's great about a electric over hydraulic setup is that high pressure.

That's going to allow us to use disc brakes, which reduces our stopping distance. This actuator also has an internal proportioning valve to help ensure that the fluid is delivered to the brakes evenly, so you get nice smooth braking operation. inaudible 00:01:23 hydraulic actuators one part you'll need when converting your trailer from electric brakes to electric over hydraulic. In addition with the actuator, you're also going to need a line kit to get that fluid that our actuator's pumping back to the brakes.We've got tandem and triple axle kits available here at etrailer so you can ensure that there's going to be one available for yours. You'll also need a disc brake conversion kit.

This is going to give you the components you'll need to remove your drum brakes and install disc brakes in its place. Now, oftentimes these don't come with the bearings and seals you need to get them installed, so you will want to make sure you get an inappropriate bearing and seal kit to match as well.We'll begin our installation here at the front of the trailer. I've got the front compartment open here because we want to put our actuator here at the front, putting it close to our batteries, as well as our electrical wiring here at the front. That'll minimize the length of wire we need to route to it. And it's just also an easy location where we can access it to be able to fill up the fluid and do the things we need to do. I've decided to mount mine just directly behind the batteries here. If we take a look behind the battery, it's sitting right here on the bottom of the compartment.The first thing we'll need to do is mount the actuator so that way it's in a nice inaudible 00:02:33 location. We chose this location here because it's tucked out of the way to where it's not going to really affect the storage of our customer's compartment, and we left some space here so that if they wanted to add an additional battery, they still could. We also chose the orientation here with the wiring towards the center of our trailer and the other side that has the hydraulic line hookup towards the edge of our trailer, because we're going to need to route that line out towards our brakes. So now we chose the position and where we're going to put it, we just drilled out holes using a 1/4 inch drill bit.We do have to provide our own hardware to attach this. I just used some 1/4 inch hardware with washers. I did put washers on each side and followed it up with a lock washer and a nut on the bottom to clamp it to this bottom panel of our compartment. There's a total of four, two on each side, that we installed. Now we've got our actuator mounted up, we need to get everything wired. It's pretty easy to get that done. There's only four wires here, and two of them are what you would expect. Nice and easy, it's just power and ground. Our power wire's our black wire and our ground is our white wire. Our batteries here have a large black ground wire that runs to the frame right here and it goes in, so we just took our white wire, ran it over to the frame there and used a self-tapping screw to attach it to the frame.For our power wire here, we do actually add a circuit breaker, so we route over there to the wall where the circuit breaker stack was. We added an additional breaker up there at the top, you can pick that up here at etrailer if you need one, and then we hooked the black wire to a ring terminal and then attached it to the silver post. You can get ring terminals here at etrailer as well. The other end of that circuit breaker needs to go to your battery positive. You can see there's a small jumper wire that goes from the bronze post of that circuit breaker and it wraps it down to the strip that goes to the stack of circuit breakers there and that's connected directly to the battery positive so it's getting its power from there.The two remaining wires we have are our blue wire and our yellow wire. The blue wire is the brake actuator wire. This is the wire you're going to hook up to the brake wire from your seven way connector. It's typically blue on there as well. We just connected this to the blue wire located over here on the cornerback here. We found the brake signal wire from the seven way was routed down in this loom right here. It was in a duplex wire. It's got a gray sheathing that has a white and a blue wire inside. That blue wire was our brake wire so we just attached it right there. We just used some butt connectors, which you can get here at etrailer, to make that connection. The yellow wire will attach to your breakaway switch.With this one, we got a little creative because the duplex wire that's coming from our seven way, it has that white and that blue wire, the blue wire we know is our brake signal wire. We hooked it to the other blue wire from our actuator. The white wire out of that duplex wire is the ground wire that goes to your electric brakes. Since we're removing our electric brakes and putting electric over hydraulic, we no longer need that ground wire. So what we can do is down here in our compartment where we found those wires, we can cut the white wire and we're going to attach that to the yellow wire on our actuator. And then we're going to head up to the seven way junction box on our fifth wheel. I'll show you where we can make a couple of modifications to get this wire hooked up properly.So here is our pin box here. If we come underneath and look straight up, that's where we're going to have our junction box. I went ahead and removed the cover from the box and we pulled down all of our wires here. This is where we found our brake signal wire as well as our power wire. If we look here, there it is, our gray duplex wire's right here, and that's our blue brake wire. Here's the white wire that we we're talking about that's on that duplex. That was just hooked to ground right here where all of these grounds are connected together. I just cut it right off right there and that way we can use the white wire that's routed from here to connect to our breakaway switch. Because again, we don't need that ground wire anymore for our brakes. We're not using it.I took the white wire here, where I'd cut it, and I just butt connected it to the breakaway switch wire right here. You can see this runs out and this goes to our breakaway switch here. Now we are replacing the breakaway switch, so we do have a new one on here that we are going to need to connect up so we can go ahead and make those connections now. Just to show you how to crimp and strip your wires. First thing I like to do is get my wires cut to length. We don't need all this excess in here so we'll just trim that off. Once you've got it trimmed up, we need to strip our wires. We're going to go ahead and hook both of these up for our breakaway switch. We're just going to strip that and we'll strip the other one.And then these are the breakaway switch wires as they come out of the box. Again, the white one here, this black one there, it runs down. The other breakaway switch wire from our box is located right here so we're just going to hook these up. Since we've got both the wires here, we can just make our connections here. With your breakaway switch though, if you look here is how these are connected. One of the wires does connect to a power source from the batteries inside, and then the other one connects to either your braking system if you had an electric system or to your dedicated breakaway switch wire in electric over hydraulic, which is what we're doing. So we'll strip these back and then we'll grab our butt connector and hook those together.Now we're just making a connection with heat shrink butt connectors. I do recommend heat shrink butt connectors for these connections as these are outside of any compartment where they are exposed to the elements. A heat shrink butt connector will ensure that no moisture gets down inside of our connection once we shrink it at the end. We're just going to hook our other wire up over here. Since these are just breakaway switch wires, it doesn't really matter. The breakaway switch is just a pass through switch, so if you mix these two up, it will still function the same way. We'll then slide in our other one. Sometimes with butt connectors, can make it a little easier if you put a little twist on the wire. That can just help keep the strands from curling up on you when you're trying to push them in. You then take our wires and just heat up the butt connectors with a heat gun, it will shrink them down and that'll seal up each end.Now that we've got our actuator all wired up, all that's left is to route the lines from our actuator here to the brakes on the axles. We're using Hydrastar's Triple Axle Kit that comes with everything we need, which gives us a long line to make the run back from our actuator to our axles and all the lines we need to route across the axles and then from each axle to each brake on each one. We routed our lines through the frame and then down the side of the frame, going all the way back to our brakes. We just go through the open channels, following the factory wiring.In our kit, you'll also receive the little brackets that we've got as well as the self tapping screws, so that way you can get everything connected. We continue running it down the bottom of our frame until we get to where our axle is here. At this point, we do coil up the long line. So this is the long line coming from the actuator. We have more than we need so we do coil some up there. I used some just regular hydraulic hose here to just cut some strips and put it around it and then zip tied it to ensure that none of our coils can touch one another to wear through.It then goes into our splitter here. We mounted the splitter using a self-tapping screw, running it straight up into the frame. Now this self-tapping screw, we did have to get, this one didn't come with the kit. The ones that come with the kit we're just a little bit too short due to the trim pieces that we're under here so we had to extend this a little bit on this particular trailer. Once it goes in there, we've got three other connections that we need to make at this block. The second longest line that comes in your kit is going to go from this one and run across the axle to the other side. Next, we take the flexible brake hose that comes in our kit, we hook it to this one, and then we go down and around and then we attach it to our caliper.We chose this position because it keeps our brake hose away from our wheel and towards the inside of the trailer. This way, when our suspension goes up and down when it flexes, it's going to want to flex in like this and stay away from our moving components. The next line that we've got here, this is one of the shortest lines that come in your kit. You're going to have several of these short lines. These are used to go from axle to axle. So we just go, we do kind of go towards the center a little bit to get around our suspension components, and also to take up a little bit of line because it's a little longer than we needed.There was also some pre-existing clamps that we used the screws to, to make it easy to get clamps around it. We did have to add a couple of additional clamps from the ones that came in the kit to just ensure everything stays securely connected. This goes to the three-way fitting that comes in your kit. You'll have several of these. We're going to have one located here at the axle, just behind our front. There's also one of these located on the other side of this axle. And then on the other side of the axle that had the four way connector, you'll find another one of these over there on that side.This line just goes in here though, and all this really does is it gives us a place to put our brake hose again, to connect to our caliper. Again, we put it like that to make it flex that way. We use another one of the short hoses to continue on towards our last axle. This one doesn't have any kind of three-way fitting. It just has a union. It's a little hard to see because of this line here, but here's our union. Our line goes into that, hits the union, and then we go into another flexible hose. With this one, we do kind of have it pointed towards the back of the trailer a little bit. It still does kind of point out and this should help keep it kind of flexing it this way to keep it away from our moving components. If we hop over to the other side of the trailer, the story's pretty similar.So here on the other side of our trailer, you can see the long line that routed across. Unfortunately, the line that came in our kit was just a bit too short to make the run on this particular trailer. This is an extra wide trailer due to it being a toy hauler, so it does have just a little bit more length. We used a small one foot flexible hose, which you can get here at etrailer to extend that line just enough to where we can make it to the three-way fitting on this side. Again, we've got our flexible hose that goes down, we've got the line that goes back, and this is a similar routing as the other side. Got a little more creative in taking up some of the extra length, and goes to a union, again, there at the very back.So now that everything's loosely connected, we need to tighten everything down. All of our ends on our hoses and our lines here are going to use a 3/8 wrench. I do recommend that you use a line wrench here over a regular wrench. You can see how this is just a box end, open like that. It really only contexts the two surfaces when tightening it down. With this one here, you can see it's designed to contact just about every service of the nut, but we've got a slight opening there that will allow it to slide over our line and get a good grip, tightening it down. The metal here is a bit softer than your typical bolts, so it's really important you use a line wrench to ensure you don't round out the nut and you get proper tightness on these so that way they don't leak. Using one of these, you risk the chance of potentially stripping it out.Now you do want to have a couple of other sizes with you though. I've got a 9/16 and a 1/2 inch here as well, just regular wrenches. These are great for holding components while you're tightening it down, like your brake hose here. I recommend holding it while you snug it down and this will ensure that you get to choose the orientation your hose is in when you're snugging it down. Because as you go to tighten this down, it's likely going to twist your hose and we're trying to control which way it flexes when the suspension moves. So that way you can hold it in the right position to make sure it's going to keep that positioning. With the unions, you'll need a 1/2 inch wrench for those to hold those when tightening. You just slide your 1/2 inch on the union and then use your line wrench to tighten it into it.Same story up at the actuator. The actuator, you want to make sure when you're tightening the hose where it goes into the actuators you'll see there's a nut coming out of the back of the actuator, make sure you put a wrench on there as well to hold it when you're snugging everything down. Another tool I highly recommend when performing this job is a brake line bending tool. This here will ensure that you can get aggressive bends on your brake line without kinking lines. This ensures that fluid can easily transfer through these more aggressive bends without any problem. You can see here the way this works, the line goes in there and it wraps it around this and that prevents the kinking. This is a pretty hard turn here, so if we we're to just bend this by hand, it would have definitely kinked there, but using a tool like this allowed us to get a nice, good angle that prevents any kinkage.So now that we've got everything installed, our brakes, our lines, and our actuator, everything's wired up and ready, we just need to get some fluid in the system, bleed it out, and then our system is ready to apply and we can stop our trailer. We're going to start by removing our cap. I've already topped the fluid up. You want to leave your cap off when you're bleeding the brakes. The rubber seal in here can actually get sucked and it potentially could damage the seal if it's on while you got it on, so we don't want to pull that seal out so we'll just leave it off. We'll just set it down over here.Now we're going to have an assistant up here at the front that's going to monitor the fluid level. If you drain the fluid down too low and it drains it dry, you'll have to start the bleed procedure all over again because it's sucked air into the system from the very beginning here. Your assistant's also going to top it up, make sure it stays full. It's nice if they're up here at the front, because they can pull your breakaway switch pin for you to activate the brakes when you're bleeding them. We're now going to head back to the brakes, to our bleeder screws, and we'll show you how to open and close those and get this bled out.So now we are here, back at our driver's side rear wheel. Since our actuator's installed slightly on the passenger side, this is the furthest from our actuator, that's where I recommend starting because that's going to be the most distance. You're going to get the most fluid through your lines and get the most air out starting here. We've gone ahead and made just a little apparatus here to catch our fluid. You can just put a bucket down here. This is going to shoot out here at pretty high pressure. We want to avoid getting brake fluid all over all of our components. It's pretty deteriorating for paint and stuff like that. It knocks paint off pretty rapidly. So the hose just wraps around. We are using a clear hose so we can monitor the fluid as it comes out. And we just got a catch down here it goes into.The bleeder screw on our calipers where we're going to be taking the fluid from, you might notice there's two bleeder screws. You don't want to use the bottom one, make sure you're on the top bleeder screw. So now that we're all prepped and ready, we're using a 5/16 wrench here to crack this open, we're going to go ahead and yell at the assistant to start the actuator.Go ahead, Joe. He's gone ahead and activated it and you can see the fluid coming out. We're going to go ahead and close it because the fluid coming out is nice and solid. There's no bubbles in there. That's exactly what we're looking for. If there's bubbles coming out, that means you need to continue bleeding until there are no more bubbles. So now that we've got this one done to where there we're no bubbles shooting out of our hose there, we're going to move on to the next brake and just go one at a time until we've got them all bled. I recommend, again, starting at the furthest from the actuator and slowly working your way to the closest to the actuator to get the air bled out as fast as possible.And that completes our installation of Hydrastar's 1600 PSI Disc Brake Hydraulic Actuator on our 2020 Grand Design Momentum.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Brent H
Installed by:
Brent H
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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