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HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Kit Installation - 2017 Keystone Montana Fifth Wheel

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How to Install the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Kit on a 2017 Keystone Montana Fifth


Hi there, fifth wheel owners. Today on your 2017 Keystone Montana, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Hydrastar's 1600 PSI brake line and actuator kit. To help us complete this installation, we'll be connecting it to Code DX 00:00:15 13-inch disc brakes at the back.One of the things I did want to mention is that this kit also comes with a new breakaway switch, as well as a breakaway switch battery. Our customer already had one installed and you can see it's a nice new one he just had put on, so we're not going to be replacing that today since it's already new components. But you'll get one included with your kit so you can easily get these installed, it's just a couple of wires, so it's really easy. You can follow along with us though, because we'll be hooking up to the customer's battery, but the process is going to be basically the same.We'll begin our installation by getting our actuator mounted, because we need to know where we're going to have to route all of our lines and our wiring to.

We've decided to mount ours in the front compartment here, right in the very front. This is our hydraulics here for the leveling system and we just made some brackets and then just attached to the brackets. We do have a bracket kit available here at etrailer, so you can pick up that kit to make it easier, so you don't have to make custom brackets because we already have custom ones that we do sell. And this just gives us a nice platform, and you'll have to secure it with your own hardware. Hardware does not come provided, but you can get nuts and bolts at your local hardware store.Now that we've got it securely mounted, it has four wires on it that we'll need to hook up.

You'll have a white wire, a yellow wire, a blue wire and a black wire. The white wire is our ground, the yellow wire is for our breakaway switch, the blue wire is from our brake controller to tell it when to activate the brakes, and the black wire is going to be our power wire. We're going to start, we're going to hook up the power wire first and this wire needs to have a circuit breaker before it hooks to your power source. You can get circuit breakers here at etrailer.com. We're going to be using a 40 amp circuit breaker for this one.You'll want to go ahead and get your circuit breaker mounted so you know where you're going to want to run your wires to.

We just put ours here, just right on the back side of our inner compartment. We're in the same compartment, we're just on the back wall. We put it next to the other one so it blends in, it looks like it was supposed to be there the whole time.In order to get our wiring over there, we are going to have to extend it, to reach over to our breaker. We're going to go ahead and crimp on an extension piece. If you need some wire, you can get some here at etrailer.com.

We're going to strip it back. And then we're going to crimp a butt connector on one end. And the other end, we're just going to attach to the black wire coming off of our actuator. Now that we've got those crimped together, we're just going to route this wire over to our circuit breaker.We're just going to follow the rest of the wires that are already existing there until we get over to here. We'll then want to strip back the other end of our wire. And if you need to cut it to length, go ahead. I've already got this one trimmed to the length that I wanted it to. We're just going to strip that back. And now we're going to be putting on a ring terminal so we can connect to our circuit breaker. We've got ring terminals here at etrailer.com, and this is just going to crimp right onto here.And then we can attach this to our circuit breaker. There are two different posts here. One is labeled 'auxiliary' and the other one is labeled 'battery.' We want to hook to the auxiliary post, which is going to be the silver stud. We're just going to remove the nut. Slide our wire on there. And then we're just going to reinstall that nut. You can tighten it down with a 3/8 socket.Now, before we hook the circuit breaker up to the battery, we're just going to keep power off of our units. We can finish hooking up our wires and finish getting everything installed, because we don't want it accidentally activating when we don't want it to and things like that. So, we're just going to leave that until the end. And in our trailer here, it had a jacketed wire like this. We found it in the harness that was located right here. And inside there, you're going to have a blue and a white wire.The blue wire here is the brake controller wire that comes from your seven way. And the white wire is ground, because you need power and ground to activate your electric brakes. What we we're able to do then, is rather than having to route an additional wire up for our breakaway switch, we no longer need this ground wire because we don't have electric brakes anymore. So, we can hook our yellow wire to the white wire and then we're going to head over to our junction box and I'll show you how we can get that ground switch over to our breakaway switch.Here you can see, we're in our junction box here up by our fifth wheel head. This is that jacketed wire. The blue, you can see was hooked to the blue wire from the seven way. That's all good. The ground wire was hooked to this big bundle of white wires, this is all ground. So, I just cut it off. You can see I cut it right there. And this is the white wire now going inside. I just crimped it to the black wire coming off of our breakaway switch.The other part of your breakaway switch should be hooked to power and that's here. You can just look around for that. The blue wire, when I trace it inside, this goes to the battery. So, this is the hot side for our breakaway switch. We hooked to the white wire to the cold side of the breakaway switch.The white wires, the only thing that we have left from the actuary that we need to hook up, and we just attach this to ground. I took a ring terminal, this is larger than the ones we use in the circuit breakers. We have these here etrailer.com as well. And right here, this black wire goes directly to the battery negative so we we're able to attach it right here to the stud, so it's going right to our battery.Now, before we finish hooking up that power, now we want to run our brake lines. I do highly recommend using a brake line tool when making any really aggressive bends. I used one here and it gives you a nice clean bend without kinking the line, because if the line kinks, it's pretty much useless at that point. And it just attaches here to the back. And this is going to route to the brakes at the back. We have line kits available here at etrailer.com, it's going to come with the necessary lengths of lines, as well as all the fittings and hoses you're going to need to get it hooked up to those brakes.We also have disc brake kits available here at etrailer.com. If you don't have those installed, you want to make sure you get those installed at this point so you can get all of your lines hooked up. The kit we're using comes with flexible hoses that allows us to hook to these brakes nice and easy, without contacting anything here.Now that we've got our lines all run and everything else is connected, we can hook our actuator up to the battery by completing the circuit breaker circuit. Our batteries in this compartment and the red cable you see here comes right from the battery positives. We can hook right to this nut right here and connect it to our circuit breaker. We're going to connect it to the circuit breaker side first, since that side's not hot.We can now go ahead and remove the nut down here. We're using an 11 millimeter socket to do so. You want to be careful when taking this nut off, as this wire is hot, so if you hit your wrench on ground or anything, it is going to cause some sparks. Just be careful about that. You also want to be careful that we don't drop this cable down, because it's also hot and we don't want it to ground on anything. So, we're just going to slide that nut off. We're going to take our jumper wire that we made, put it in place. And then just re-install the nut.We'll begin our line installation by getting our lines run from our actuator to the back. You received multiple lines in this kit and this is going to be the longest one. You're going to want to get it uncoiled, and it's going to attach to your actuator here. I'll show you how I got it inside, just one second, but I want to show you where our end goal is and also how to tighten it down. I highly recommend that you use a line wrench when tightening these down and all the ends on our lines are going to use a three eight'th inch size. A line wrench like this is going to have increased surface area, so you don't strip it out. You can get it tighter and not have to worry about causing any damage to it.Whenever you're tightening it down, you do want to make sure you're holding the other side. We're just going to hold it with our wrench and just snug her on down. Once you get it nice and snug, you're good to go. We'll check for leaks at the end and snug them down more if we need to. But in most cases, if you've got a line wrench, you can get it nice and tight with no issues. Our line goes down and then it goes out a hole that we had drilled right down there at the bottom, and then we are going to head outside and start routing it towards the back.For reference, we are starting in our front compartment because that's where we mounted our actuator. This is where we pass through the hole that we have drilled, and we come down. You will notice there's a little piece of rubber here. This is just some rubber vacuum line that I had laying around. We do sell vacuum line here at etrailer.com if you want to pick some up. It's great for wrapping around brake lines, where there's any place where you're suspecting it might rub against metal and potentially cause an issue. We just split it to open it up and just wrapped it around there. I use a little zip tie just to keep it wrapped around in place.From here, we just go around our propane line and we're just going to follow that propane line all the way back, because it's already routed in a way where we know it's going to be avoiding any moving components or anything like that. We just stay right underneath of it, using the included clamps and self tapping screw to just run it right into the frame there. And we just continue following it along next to our propane line.Just in front of our axle, I did pull this panel down right here so we could hide the excess line that we have, because this line is very long and we don't need it to go beyond the axle. We want to stop right about the axle. So, we just take it and coil it up right here. Now, in order to prevent any noise and to keep anything from rattling and touching one another, I did wrap vacuum line around these coils as well and secured it with a clamp and some zip ties. The zip ties are only around the hose, so that way there's no contact onto our brake line other than the hoses that we've got wrapped around it there. Once we get it coiled up, though, then we just continue on and it just goes right here to above our axle. At this point, we can now start using the rest of our lines and unions to getting everything hooked up to our brakes.Now, the routing inaudible 00:10:36 that we just took is for our trailers layout. You do want to keep in mind that depending on the floor plan and options, you've chosen on your trailer, that the layout underneath could have various other components, slide outs, there's a lot of different things that can change. So, your path might be slightly different coming back here. And once you get back here, we're going to use the same unions to get to the correct locations. We're going to start with our four-way split here. We've got our main line going in, on the opposite side, we have a flex hose that goes down and we'll connect to our caliper. And we chose this one because we wanted the hose to be angled this direction. We're trying to keep the flex hose on the back side on the inside of our leaf spring stack. When tightening down the flex hoses, they're going to use the same three eighth flying wrench.Now you have three more lines that come in your kit. You'll have one that is slightly longer than the other two. The two that are the shortest, are going to be the ones that go from one axle back to the other axle. That's what we have here. This is one of the shortest lines and it just comes out the side, and we route it back just following this propane line once again. We did have to make a small loop right here just to get rid of some of the excess. And then it just uses the single union to connect to a brake hose to go there.When holding your unions, your Ts or anything like that, you'll use a half-inch wrench to slide over the flat spots here, so you can hold those when tightening them down.The line that's longer than the two short ones you get, the medium sized line, this is going to go across from one side to the other. And I just made a little slit in the panel here and just ran it over and then made a little slit on the other side, where the line pops out, and over there, we're going to connect to a three-way.When you again, come off the back with our flex hose, it's going to go to the caliper, just like we did on the other side. And also just like we did on the other side, when we come out the outside here, we're going to bend this back, go on the inside of our equalizer, continue on back. We make a loop once again to get rid of the excess. Connect to a union. And then it's just like the other side as well, in the rear axle.Now, in addition to your line kit, you are going to need a disc brake system that you're going to be hooking to. We've got calipers and disc brake kits available here at etrailer.com. Now we need to bleed our brakes. We need to get all the air out of the systems. We just have to break fluid in it. We're going to start at the caliper that is the furthest away from where our actuator is. We're just going to put the actuator at the front on the driver's side. We're here at the rear on the passenger side. And you want to use the top bleeder screw. Some of your kits that you get do you have bottom bleeder screws, that's just because you can change the orientation depending upon the application for this caliper. Always use the top.To help minimize mess, we're just going to use a hose to direct the fluid down into a container, and then we'll need an assistant to either pull the breakaway switch pin or activate the brake controller to start pumping it. You want to make sure you've got the actuator filled with fluid and you can use .3 or .4 brake fluid. We're using .3.inaudible 00:13:36. And we want to do this until we get a nice solid stream. Just like we have there, there's no air bubbles in it, so we're going to close it off. You can turn it off. And we're going to just repeat this process at each wheel until we get a nice solid stream out of each one, so we don't have any air in the system. After each time that you bleed some of the fluid through the system, you want to have your assistant just double-check the reservoir to make sure that it's full. Because if you run an empty while bleeding, you have to start the process all over again.Now that we've got all the fluid bled out, we want to make sure that we don't have any leaks. To do this, we're just going to pull the breakaway switch pin. That's going to deadhead our pump, put it at the maximum pressure. And we're going to check each of the unions and fittings to make sure that there's nothing leaking there.We'll start with our first connection here. Nice and dry, so we're just going to move back and then check each individual one. Especially make sure to take the unions, that's usually the spot you're going to find leaks the most. But we're all dry, so we're all good to go. We can now reinstall our tires and start enjoying our new brake system.And that completes our installation of Hydrastar's brake line and 1600 PSI actuator kit on our 2017 Keystone Montana..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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