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HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Kit Installation - 2019 Keystone Montana Fifth Wheel

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How to Install the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Kit on a 2019 Keystone Montana Fifth


Hi there, Keystone owners. Today, on your 2019 Keystone Montana, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install HydraStar's electric over hydraulic brake actuator and line kit. Along with that, we're going to be using Kodiak's disc brake kit.And this is what our actuator looks like when it's installed. Our hydraulic actuator is going to provide up to 1600 PSI of hydraulic fluid to our brakes at the back, which is optimal for our disc brake system, which requires higher pressure than a drum brake system would. With this kit, we do get everything we need to convert our trailer over from electric brakes to hydraulic brakes. Because in addition to having our actuator here, we also get our brake line kit, which is designed for a tandem axle setup.

So we've got two axles on here, so that worked out perfect, and you also get a breakaway switch included with it, which is nice, especially if you don't have a battery on your trailer. Most of your bigger trailers like this do already have a battery, but it's nice to have one that is separate and isolated to ensure you've always got this safety backup system ready to go when you need it.Now, what doesn't come included with your kit is your caliper and your rotor. If you need disc brakes to install here on your axles, I highly recommend the kits we have from Kodiak. Your Montana here is a big load that you're going to be hauling behind your truck, and with big loads comes great momentum. And we need this momentum to stop whenever we need it to come to a light, or if there's somebody in front of us.

And in emergency situations, this is the most important. With electric brakes that comes on it, the system is going to help stop it. It's going to perform its needs.But if you want to maximize the safety and smoothness of your Montana here, I highly recommend going to a hydraulic disc brake system. It's going to decrease your stopping distance, because we're going to have more surface area on our rotors, which is going to grab better and allow our trailer to stop in a much shorter distance that we would before. And it's also going to be smoother because we have a hydraulic actuator that evenly distributes the fluid to all the brakes at the same time, and it applies them in a more natural fashion that feels like you're stopping on your car.

With your electric brakes you have to set your adjustment, and once it applies, it happens very abruptly. And if you've got it set too high, you really feel it in the back. With these. It applies it a little bit more gradually, so it feels much smoother and more natural when you're coming to a stop. This is more comfortable for you and your passengers, and the decreased stopping distance is going to increase the safety for you and your family as well.First, we're going to mount our actuator.

We've mounted it here on the driver's side, just above our battery against the wall here. We use these 90 degree brackets that we have available here at etrailer to mount it up to the wall. We drilled some holes through them and then just use some self tapping screws to get it mounted to the wall. Then we can set our actuator on top of these brackets, mark the holes, drill them out, and then secure it with the included hardware. Also included with your kit, you're going to have your breakaway switch battery.So we mounted this in the same location in our compartment. We're just on the back wall now. You will have to provide your own screws to mount it up. You can get those at your local hardware store. This is just a wooden panel. So some wood screws can run through those pretty nicely. That'll keep that nice and secure. And just to the right of our battery, we also added a circuit breaker. Now this doesn't come included with your kit, but I highly recommend it in order to add a layer of circuit protection to your actuator. So in case we have any shorts or anything like that, we are protected.And then the last thing we're going to need to mount is our breakaway switch here. We'll be using this when we bleed our brakes and just test everything out to make sure the system's working properly. So our breakaway switch is going to have two wires coming off of it here. It already had a breakaway switch on there. I went ahead and just pulled it off and re-secured our new one, right where the old one was, using the same mounting hardware. And I just cut the two wires. Now you do want to be careful when cutting these wires, as one of them is going to be live. So just cut them individually and make sure you just have them hanging away to where they're not going to touch on any surface to short out. Now they're both black wires. They're both black wires here. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which, so we're just going to re-secure these.So we're going to start by stripping back our breakaway switch side first. And we're doing this side since we know one of the wires on the trailer side is live, so we want to leave those covered for now. Once you've got them stripped back, we're going to crimp on butt connectors to each one. I highly recommend using a heat shrink butt connector, as it will keep out any moisture to ensure a long lasting connection. We're just going to slide that in there, crimp it down, and then we're going to do the same thing with the other wire coming off of our breakaway switch. We can now come to the wires coming off of our trailer. And one at a time we're going to strip it back, and then crimp it into one of the wires coming off of our breakaway switch. Just poke that in there and then crimp it down. We'll then do the same thing with the other one, connecting it to our other wire. Once you've got everything crimped, we can use our heat shrink butt connectors here with our heat gun and shrink those down.On the wiring that was already on here, there was some wire loom on it that I'd pulled off. We're just going to reinstall that loom, and then we'll tuck it back behind our head there. If you need some wire loom and you didn't already have some on your wires, we do have wire loom available here at etrailer.com. We'll now need to begin wiring up our actuator. So I've gone ahead and pulled open the cover here because we need to make some changes to a couple of the wires here. One of the things you're going to look for is your wire here that has the gray sheathing on it. Inside that gray sheathing, you're going to have two wires coming out, a blue and a white.The blue is your brake signal wire. This one's going to be left alone because we're going to find it inside our compartment there, but the white one that's coming off of here is going to be connected to your grounds, which is this big bundle of white wire here. We're going to remove it from there, and we're going to connect it to the black wire that goes to our breakaway switch, because we're going to be using this white wire here as our jumper leg. We no longer need ground here for our braking system because we're going to be getting ground from somewhere else. So we can use that white wire to jumper for the breakaway switch to get it in the compartment.You also want to find your other breakaway switch wire. It's this black wire here. We found that by just giving it a little tug and watching that it pulled the wires coming from our breakaway switch. You'll see it's connected to this blue wire. This goes inside, and this is our hot wire. So we just want to know where this is because we're going to be using this later inside. So we're going to be looking for this blue wire as well when we go in there to hunt for our wires.So now we're back in our compartment. We've got four wires coming off of our actuator. You've got a white, a black, a blue, and a yellow. The black and white are our power and ground. We're going to come back to those later. We're going to focus on the blue and yellow now .the blue is our brake signal feed that goes to the actuator to tell it when to activate. This comes from your brake controller or your truck. And the yellow wire here is for our breakaway switch circuit. So when the breakaway switch pin gets pulled, it completes the circuit and it'll activate our actuator. So I just tuck those around. They come out here on the bottom.The gray wire that we found earlier with the sheathing that has two wires inside of it can be found in the large harness located here on the driver's side. So we found that wire, we cut that wire because we no longer need the rest going back to our electric brakes, because we're changing those out. So the rest of that wire can just stay in there. It's dead wire. Just make sure you got enough length here to work with. We then stripped a little of that sheathing back to bring out our blue and our white wires that's inside. The blue wire is our brake signal wire, so we hook that to the blue wire going to the actuator. The white wire here was that ground wire that we had cut and then connected to our breakaway switch. That's going to go to our yellow wire, so it gets that breakaway switch feed.Further down, that huge harness does run down into a hole down here, but we can find coming out of that, there's that blue wire that is our hot wire. And this is actually going to be connected to this circuit breaker. Right here is where I found it connected to. So I went ahead and disconnected it from the circuit breaker there, because that was the power wire going to our breakaway switch. We need it to be powered from our new breakaway switch battery. Coming out of our breakaway switch battery, it has three wires. We have a blue, a white, and a black. Black and white, again, are power and ground. Blue is the output for power to our breakaway switch to ensure that we always got a power feed that can activate our brakes in the event that we need it. So we hooked that to the blue wire that went up to the junction box outside. So this way, our breakaway battery is powering up our breakaway switch, and then it's coming back down that white wire, going to our actuator.Next, we're going to hook up our power wires. The black wire coming off of our actuator, we ran over and connected to the silver stud on the circuit breaker that we added. On the bronze colored stud, we just took a piece of black wire and used it as a jumper. If you need some wire, we've got some available here at etrailer.com. And we just put small ring terminals on it. We connected it to this junction box right here. And we need this to go to our main battery on our trailer, so we hooked it to the stud right there, as you can see the red wire here that comes from our battery. So that way, we've got a direct connection to the battery there.The black wire coming off of our breakaway switch battery needs to connect to the battery charge line that comes from our seven way. And that actually is connected to this stud right here, so we just took the black wire, we ran it over, put a ring terminal on it, and connected it to the same stud, so that way, it's connected to that charge line. So whenever we hook our truck up, we know it's connected directly to our battery, so it can charge it.Lastly, we've just got to hook up our ground wires. So it's the white wire that comes off of both of our units. So our breakaway switch battery, we just hooked a ring terminal to it and connected it to ground right here to get our ground. And over here on our actuator, we did pretty similar, just put a ring terminal on that white wire. And one of the screws that we had used for our brackets here, we just removed that screw, slid our ring terminal over it, and then re-installed it to get ground from the frame. Now that we've got all of our components wired up, we need to route our lines from the actuator back to our brakes. So we started by taking our line here, and we curve here out through a hole that we just drilled into the sidewall here. You just want to be careful when you're drilling this hole, pay attention on both sides.There's a hole just above our actuator here, but I like to keep the lines and everything below our reservoir, if possible. It's just better for gravity bleeding and letting the fluid naturally want to go down and get that air out. So here you can see on the other side, we're in the compartment now with our propane tank, where it passes the hole that we drilled, I did cut a little bit of vacuum line and wrapped it around the line and pushed it through that hole just to protect it, so our line's not going to be touching on any metal surfaces. If you need some vacuum line, you can pick some up at etrailer.com here.Now, when working with your brake line, you can mold it with your hands fairly well. But if you're going to make any real intense bends, like a 90 degree, then I highly recommend using a line bender, so you don't accidentally kink that line. Because if you just grab it and bend it, it's likely going to kink, and then you're going to have a restriction, and your brakes aren't going to perform the way they're intended to. So the line where I had curved it inside, and the one that goes down here, I did use this brake line bender. The line just goes in here through this, and then you just pull this and it just wraps it right around that. And that's how you make your bends. So we just go down, we make another 90 degree with our tool, and then we start heading back. And here you can see we're just running along our frame now, staying underneath this propane line.We use the included clips and self tapping screws to hold our line in place as we're running it down. Once we get here towards the back, there is a bracket here for the drain on our water. So we do want to just come on the inside a little bit to avoid that drain, and then we're going to use the frame that's located here on top now to secure it to with our self tapping screws as we continue heading back. There is a small cross beam right here, so I did cut a small little square out on each side from the underbelly just to poke that line up and over this, because I didn't want it hanging below it, potentially rubbing on it. Because we don't want metal on metal contacting our brake line. Once we got it over, though, we just take the loop that we had coiled up here, we just left some of that coiled here at the end. I did use some more of that vacuum line to keep each coil separate from one another so nothing's touching, and we used this cross beam to help secure it to.We did also make a little slit in the surface here to use a zip tie to secure this side up as well, so it doesn't vibrate around. But the majority of the line will then continue off and go to our block located here, where we just used a self tapping screw to secure it to the frame. So this line will go into our block and then we'll want to tighten it down. We'll use a 3/8ths wrench. I highly recommend using a line wrench when tightening these down. We have line wrenches available here at etrailer.com. And a line wrench is going to have additional surface area that wraps around so you don't strip out the nuts on there, because they are made of a softer metal. But they need to be softer, so that way, they seal properly.This block here is our four wave lock. So coming out of that, we're going to have the second longest line that comes in our kit, and this is going to go from our driver's side here across to the passenger side. We also have our flexible hose, which is going to just come off of here and screw into our calipers down here. And then we've got the shortest line that comes in our kit. You'll have two of those. One of those shortest lines we're going to use to run from here, down, and go to our rear axle. Once we get back there, we're just going to use the union that comes included with it to hook to the brake hose and then go right into the caliper there on that rear axle.The medium sized line that goes across will go right into our three way here. We did just secure this with a self tapping screw into the frame right up there. And these just thread right into the fitting here on the caliper, and you'll tighten those down with your 3/8ths wrench. The last line coming off of here's that second short line that you'll get, and it just also continues on towards the rear axle, where, again, we'll use our union to connect it to a hose and then connect the hose to our caliper.We're now back at the furthest brake caliper from our actuators. So since we mounted the actuator on the driver's front side, we're at the passenger rear, so that's going to be the furthest distance away. This is where we're going to want to start to bleed our brakes. And you're going to want an assistant to help you when doing this. They can either pull the breakaway switch pin to activate the brakes, or you can hook your truck up and you can use your brake actuators manual slide to turn it on.We've gone ahead and. Our assistant went ahead and turned it on for us. Jonathan, go ahead and turn it on. So we activated our actuator. We're now just going to loosen the bleeder screw here, and you can see the fluid coming out, going down. We're then going to shut the valve because we only want to let so much come out and we want it to be nice and clean like this. You can turn it off Jonathan. And there's no air. You see, this is the air coming back up. What we we're looking for is when fluid was coming out, we we're looking for the presence of bubbles in the stream coming out. If you have bubbles, you need to continually bleed it until you get a nice solid stream like this. Once you've got that at this caliper, we're just going to move on to the next caliper, and the next one, and the next one, and the next one until they're all bled and there's no air in any of them.When bleeding your brakes, you want to make sure your cap is off. And we do it in short bursts, just like we did back there. We only bled out a little bit, and then we closed it right back off. Because the reservoir here only holds so much fluid and we don't want it to be completely drained out, or else we have to start all over again. So just do it in short bursts, and then your assistant can be up here and make sure that the fluid level remains topped up. You want to make sure that you're using DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid with your actuator. We're going to be using DOT 3 today. And that completes our installation of HydraStar's electric over hydraulic actuator and brake line kit on our 2019 Keystone Montana.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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