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K-Source Backup Camera with Rearview Mirror Installation - 2014 Nissan Frontier

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How to Install the K-Source Backup Camera with Rearview Mirror on a 2014 Nissan Frontier

Today on our 2014 Nissan Frontier we're going to be taking a look at the K Source Vision System Backup Camera, part number KSVS-8. Here's where our backup monitor looks like fully installed. When we're not backing up and it's not in reverse, it's just going to be a regular rear view mirror. Now if we put it in reverse, you can see the picture come up on the monitor. Then we take it out of reverse, picture goes away. Now on the bottom of the monitor here, there's a wheel and as you can see, by turning the wheel it's going to adjust the contrast and brightness so you're going to be able to see whatever's behind you in low light, bright light, or very dim situations.

Now, when the camera's off and we're driving, or if we're parked, and we need to see what's behind us, and maybe not want to put in reverse, if we push this middle button here it'll turn the camera on even when we're not in reverse. Then to turn it off, simply push it again. Now, this mirror features a 3-1/2 inch LCD monitor and just like before, like I said, when you take it out of reverse, the monitor's going to go away. Now, the benefit of having the monitor in the mirror, it is going to prevent you from having to mount a separate monitor on your dash somewhere, and it's also going to deter thieves because they're not going to know that you have a monitor built into your mirror. Now, this monitor is going to replace your factory mirror and it's still going to give you the same visibility that most factory mirrors will. Now, the camera back here, it is water tight, so you're not going to have to worry about the lens fogging up, water damaging the camera, or anything else like that.

It also features an anti-glare lens so you're going to have great viewing angles regardless of the sunlight or any other ambient light around you. Now, there's eight LEDs that surround the camera and those are going to be great because they're going to help you at night and they are going to give you a night vision perspective. Even when it's dark, you're still going to be able to see pedestrians and objects behind you. Now this is a wired system. Now the good benefit of that is that there's not going to be any interference or static coming come from your camera going to your monitor. Now here we have our camera in the dark to give you an idea of what it looks like with the night vision on.

Now, I do want you to keep in mind that it's not in reverse and this is purely the night vision that you're seeing. If I go to shift it into reverse, see the brake lights there You can see the reverse lights coming on. Now, if I just push the monitor to come on, that's with no brake lights and no tail lights, and we're still getting plenty of ambient light to see what's behind us. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's go and show you how we got it installed. Our first step in our installation is going to be removing our mirror. Now, this isn't a factory mirror but each mirror is going to be roughly the same.

There's a fastener right here, so if we loosen this bolt right here, the mirror should just slide right off. Then we can reach up into our head liner and remove our wire. Disconnect our connector and we can put our mirror aside. Now we can take our new mirror with the built in monitor. As you can see it's going to have the same kind of mounting as the factory mirror does, so we're just going to take it and we're going to slide it onto the plate. Then we're going to come back with a Phillips head screwdriver and tighten down that screw right underneath. Double check to make sure it's nice and tight. Next I'm going to take our harness wire here, the red, black and white wires with the white connector, and I'm going to go ahead and connect it to our monitor just like that. I'm going to put this aside for right now. Now, our other cable right here, we're going to connect using this harness and we're going to take the connector that looks like that. It's got an arrow on there and on the end of our harness right here it has another arrow. We're going to like those arrows up and we're going to connect them. Now we're going to take the majority of our bundle here and we're going to drape it over on the left side of our steering wheel just so it's out of the way for now. We're going to take our excess wire and we're actually going to come up to the head liner here and we're just going to take it, pull down on the head liner, and we're just going to tuck it up underneath the head liner to help hide it. Now we're going to need to come over here and run our wire to this panel right here. Now, we don't fully need to remove everything, we just need to right behind this panel, so if we grab it, give it a slight squeeze, and pull away, it'll loosen it up enough so that we can grab our head liner still, tuck our wires underneath, and work our way towards this side. We're just going to put the wires behind there, try to tuck them up hiding them as much as we can. We're going to run this wire down. As you can see, we'll push our wire in and actually pull our weather stripping down, so we can get our wire behind the panel. Once we have our wire in place, we can go and put our panel back just to make sure that it doesn't fall out. Now that we've gotten this far, we need to go ahead and pull our weather stripping back until we get to this panel. If you reach in, you just grab the panel, and pull away. You can start on either end and just start lifting upwards, pooping it out of the clips. We can set this panel aside for safekeeping and we're just going to run our wires behind our weather stripping here. Pull it all the way out and we're just going to tuck the wires in between the panels there. Now that we have our wires ran down our pillar here, we're going to take our three wire harness with the black, red and white cables, and we're going to come underneath the dash here. There's going to be a rubber grommet all the way to the left hand side, a little bit farther up than the pedals, and we're going to make a small cut in there so that we can feed our wires through to the engine bay. Right here's the grommet and we're just going to put our wires right through here. Now, to make it a little bit easier on myself to get the wire through this grommet here, we're using a piece of airline tube that I had laying around. Now, you can use anything you have laying around the house. If you have an old coat hanger or anything that going to keep its shape. I'm just going to push this through the grommet itself, let that come out to the other side. Under the hood here, our grommet is going to be right behind our brake reservoir and brake booster, all the way to the left hand side. As you can see, here's the airline tube that I sent through. Here I'm just going to take my three wires and I'm going to put all of them inside my airline tube. I'm going to take a little bit of tape to secure everything and now I'm going to go back to the engine side and pull my wires through. My airline tube did lose the wires but luckily it did come all the way through, so we can just pull our wires the rest of the way out. Our next step is going to be taking our black wire. Now, we're going to need to hook this up to a ground and I'm going to hook it directly to the battery using this ring terminal. You can pick one of these up on our website using part number DW05702-1. Take the stripped end of my wire and I'm going to insert it into the ring terminal here, and I'm going to crimp it down. I'm going to come back and double check, make sure it's tight. Now we're going to route this over to the negative side of our battery and we're not going to connect it right now. I'm just going to loosely lay the wire over the engine right now, bring it over towards the negative side of the battery, and I'm just going to place it right here for safe keeping while we figure out where and how we're going to run our other wires. Now, our white wire here is going to have to be connected to our reverse circuit. Now, I do plan on running this down the engine and the length of the cab of the truck going back to our reverse light itself and tapping in there. Now, I don't think we have enough wire, but you can pick some up by the foot using part number DW02359-1. Over here we have our white wire that's coming out from the inside that we ran earlier and here I have my extra wire that I ran back to my tail lights. Now, to connect these, I'm going to be using a heat shrink butt connector. You can pick these up on our website using part number DW05744-5. Now these are heat shrink butt connectors, so since it's under the hood and exposed to more elements, it's going to provide us a little bit more protection against corrosion and any other kind of debris or anything that might damage our connection and cause corrosion. We're just going to crimp each end. Now that our connection's made, I'm going to use a heat gun to shrink up our connector here. Now, you can use any heat source. I just do want to mention that if you're using a lighter or any open flame, you want to make not to char your wires or the connector itself. To give you an idea of how I ran my wire. My green wire, the extension that I put on, I just went down here and went below the brakes, down the side of the frame. We can go underneath and I can show you how I ran it the rest of the way. Our green wire came out right here. I just ran it along the frame here coming back, and I came up and over the gas tank, and this is it here in this loom. I went over the spare tire and then I ran it here, and I ran it up to my tail light. I'll show you how I got it connected up there. If we come back to our driver's tail light here, if we remove this 10 millimeter nut here and here, using a 100 millimeter socket, our tail light will come out. This is my green wire that I ran up from underneath and I have it tapped into my power wire, this blue wire here, and I connected it so that it's in line with my reverse light using the blue wire as the power wire. Now, whenever the reverse light comes on, this wire will get power. Put your tail light back in, there is an alignment tab, line it up, and just push it in. Then we're going to replace our two 10 millimeter bolts. Now for our red wire here, we need to find a 12 volt power source that's only on when our key is on. With an extra set of hands, we have someone in the car that's going to turn the key on for us and I'm going to using my tester here to check the fuses. Now this fuse is actually for your reverse lamps. Now it does get power whenever you have the key on and that's what we want, so that we're only getting power while the key is on. Now that we've identified this fuse as the one we're going to use, we're going to go ahead and pull that fuse out. Now, just using a pair of needle nose pliers, you can use those or a set of fuse pullers. Now, as I mentioned before, we're going to be using a fuse tap and you can pick on of these up using part number F2526. We can take our red wire that we ran from the inside, we can go ahead and put it on the already installed butt connector on our fuse tab. Then we can come back and we can crimp it down. Now we're going to take the 10 amp fuse that we pulled out of our fuse holder and we're going to put it right there in the bottom slot. Now we're going to take a provided 10 amp fuse that comes with our fuse tap, we're going to put that in the upper slot. Just like that. Since we have our fuse pulled out, we need to test which side is the hot side. Again, I'm going to take my test lamp here and I'm going to put it into the terminal of one side and as you can see, I don't have a light. Here I do have a light, so that means the top side of our fuse is our hot side. That's going to come into play of how we put our fuse tap into our fuse holder. Now the easiest way to determine which side of the fuse is the hot side and which side is the load side, per the instructions if you look at the diagram, the hot side is going to be the farthest away from the wire. Now, we want to make sure that we put this facing . That our hot side on our fuse tap is going on the hot side of our fuse holder. We want to make sure that's facing up. We're just going to push that into place just like that. Now with those wires ran, we're going to come back to our black wire. We're going to start routing this along the seam of the doors going underneath just like we we're doing on the side except we're going to go all the way into the back seat. Now as we come to our back seat, we're going to remove the weather stripping, just like in the front, so that we can get access to underneath our threshold panel there. Then we can run our wire behind the back seat. Now, again, I'm going to use a piece of airline tubing I have laying around to help me get through this section of paneling right here. I'm just going to stick my airline tube in and get it to feed through until it comes out the rear seat. Now I can take my wire and I can go ahead and secure it to my airline tube and go ahead and pull it through. We're going to pull that cable all the way out, all the slack's pulled out of it. Now that we have our wire ran to the backseat, if we fold our seats forward, we're going to need to drill a hole right behind our seat so our wire can come down and go out to our license plate. Now, I originally started drilling a half inch hole and to make sure that I could have my wires fit all the way through, I grabbed a step drill bit and just opened it up just big enough so I could feed my wires down. Now, we're going to take the two ends of our wire, and we're going to feed them down into the hole we just drilled. Now, we can go back underneath the truck and route them to the back towards the license plate. Here's where our wire came out and, again, we're just going to route this as close to the rear bumper at the license plate that we can. Then we're just going to leave it loose there. Here, I just went over my EVAP canister, came towards the back going along the frame rail here, went over this cross brace, and over the spare tire, and it comes out right here right in front of the spare tire. Now, we're just going to leave this loose while we get our camera ready. Next we're going to decide where we're going to mount our camera. Now seeing as the brackets offset, let me go ahead and mount it on the passenger side hole of our license plate bracket just like that. I'm going to need a Phillips head screwdriver. I'm only going to have to remove one screw. I can take my camera, put it in a general spot that I want it, line up the holes, tighten down my screw. Now with our camera securely mounted, we can take our wires coming off of our camera, and we're actually going to slip them down behind our bumper. That way we can meet up with our wire that we ran from the front. If we come back underneath the truck, we can see here's our wire coming from our camera, and here's the wire that we ran back. Now, all we need to do is plug in the corresponding connectors, yellow connector's going to go with the yellow wire, and the black is going to go with the black. Now, I'm going to put a small amount of electrical tape over our connections. One, to help keep them secure and two, to help out keep moisture and dirt from getting in our connections and causing corrosion. Now we can come back to our ground that we left loose right here. We're going to take this nut off of the negative side of the battery. We're going to install our ring terminal and then reinstall our nut. Now all we have left to do is tidy up our wires. Now we're just going to tidy up our wires and put our panels back. That'll finish up our look at the K Source Vision System Backup Camera, part number KSVS-8 on our 2014 Nissan Frontier.