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Lippert Electric Travel Trailer Leveling System Installation - 2018 Jayco Jay Flight SLX Travel Trai

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How to Install the Lippert Electric Travel Trailer Leveling System on a 2018 Jayco Jay Flight SLX T


Hi there, Jayco owners. Today in your 2018 Jayco Jay Flight SLX, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install, Lippert's Ground Control TT Self-Leveling System. The ground control system is controlled via the interior touchscreen panel. There is also an exterior panel but, you get more controls and information from the interior panel. Here, you can automatically level or manually operate each of your jacks. You can see you've got manual mode down there for manual operation, if necessary, we have auto retract and we also have auto level.

We're gonna go ahead and level it out, so that way we can see it in action. So let's press auto level. We're gonna go ahead and hit enter. And it's started to do its thing. And you can see here on the screen it tells you exactly what it's doing as it's leveling your system.

And while this is operating, we're not doing anything. I'm just sitting here in a chair. We're just taking it easy, while the system takes care of everything for you. So when you get to your campsite, regardless of the terrain that you happen to park on, you can just tell it to automatically level it and you can start setting up your campsite and enjoying the things you wanna do while the system takes care of itself. And it's gonna operate each one individually.

It's gonna adjust 'em as necessary to level it. So you it may operate one a little bit, then operate another one. And then it might go back to one that had already operated and adjusted a little bit more. Just let it do its thing. Now, one of the things I do recommend is after hitting the auto level, either exit your trailer or if you're gonna stay inside, be very still because any movements can throw off the leveling sensors.

It will still eventually level itself, but it may take it a specifically longer amount of time because you're interfering with its process. So the best part about this system for me is that I can be set at my campsite, I can get my table set up, get all my food prepared. If we're gonna have any tents for any other guests we can take care of all that while our trailer is getting itself leveled without any thing from me. I don't have to do a single thing. We do also have an exterior controller. This one, I actually like a lot too. So this way you don't ever have to be in the trailer. Once you start the process. That way you don't have to worry about disturbing any of the level sensors. Now, the green LED's on there indicating that this panel is now active and ready. If the indicator there is not on, you'll just simply hold the up and the down arrow simultaneously. And then the green that'll come on and that'll activate the panel. Once the panel is activated, you can operate your tongue jack with the S and the down arrows. And you could also, auto level and retract. Since we've just auto leveled with the interior panel we're gonna hit the retract button here to bring it back down. Now if you're looking for an all-in-one solution for your Lippert components on your trailer, this one touch panel here can also control other things such as awnings, lights, and other things like that. Now our current customer doesn't have any of those devices hooked up, but you can see here Devices. You could add more things. All we have currently is our leveler for that we just installed. But if you did have other components, you could control them all through this device. That'd be nice as well, 'cause maybe you want to level it out and retract your awning and have all that set up. You could do it with this panel. Another cool feature is the included tongue jack with our system also can adjust automatically for the hitch height on your truck. So that way you can just hit the button. It'll automatically raise it up to the appropriate height so you can back your truck under and couple it up nice and easy. We'll begin our installation by placing our trailer on level ground, making sure that we level out our trailer. And then we need to take some measurements to see if this system is gonna fit. There's a lot of components involved in this system and there are a lot of things on your trailer that could potentially interfere with the installation. So there are a lot of things you need to pay attention to because there are a lot of different options on your trailer. This trailer comes in many different configurations, with many different layouts, number of slide-outs and all those things could potentially interfere. So just because ours fit on this one, doesn't necessarily mean it's going to work on yours at home. So follow along with us and we'll show you how to determine if it will fit. A good way to check for level is just put a level along the side, find a nice straight surface. One of your door tops or windows works really well. Now we need to determine if it's gonna fit. Now, we've already got ours installed. So that way you could see what it would look like to know how large this is and what kind of area it needs to fit in. First, we're gonna check the back. And there's a couple of measurements you need to keep in mind is that, from the center of your leaf spring eye here at the back of the tire or just right here at the back of the tire, the center of our jack has to be at least 18 inches from this point. So we've gotta have at least 18 inches here. We also need to make sure that this is placed no more than 48 inches from this point. So we can't go any more than 48 inches back. That is your usable range on where this can be installed here behind the rear axle. Next, we need to check our departure angle. And this is why I wanted to have this installed so you can see. Our departure angle is the angle at our tire where it meets the lowest point at the back of our trailer. Because as our trailer pivots on the fulcrum here on our tire, anything that's below this line here is gonna strike before the back of our trailer does. So it needs to be above this line to ensure that as you're going over potholes and bumps and the trailer's moving up and down, this is never gonna contact the ground. Now we've got ours in place, so you can visualize it. But when you're at home checking, you wanna make sure you have at least nine and a half inches from the bottom of your frame, to where you're planning on putting it at the very center of the foot pad here. So you can see here that nine and a half inches is just slightly below this footpad, but this also moves. So that's why we're gonna have that little bit extra. So make sure that this nine and a half inches here, it never crosses your departure line. So if we we're to go further back and try to place it further back and you can see at some point, our nine and a half inches here would cross our line and we wouldn't be able to go further back than this. And I had actually marked it on the frame there. That is the farthest back distance we can go. That's our 48 inch mark. Here in the front, we're gonna take the same measurements. You need to check your departure angle. And we also need to determine the usable location. For the front, the way it works is you can be anywhere from the front of your trailer. And now we're not talking about like the A-frame. We're talking about the actual front where it goes straight across. So from there, we can go up to 60 inches back and our jack can be placed no further back than that. And we're pretty close to that 60 inches here to make this one work on our trailer. And you'll wanna make sure you check this on both sides. Because you can see here this, we have a slide out right here, and you may or may not. You may have different slide outs in different locations or more slide outs. And those components sometimes can interfere with these. So just make sure you check both front, back, all four jacks to make sure they're gonna fit. Then we need to head underneath and make sure we don't have anything that's going to interfere there as well. If we look underneath, you can see here that we've got a cross beam that connects the jacks together. We also need to make sure we've got clearance for this. So, you need to ensure that there's nothing hanging down in between the two jacks, once you've chosen your location. And you can see here that we're very close to the sewage tank here on our trailer, but we do clear. This is all part of the checks that we had made in the beginning. It's very important that you take all these measurements and do all these checks because these are large components. And there are a lot of accessories that are installed on trailers that often do get in the way. And it doesn't mean just because it's, you have something in the way. You could often relocate a lot of things. We've got a lot of other products available here at etrailer. So if you need to do some relocation, you could probably upgrade your components at the same time. Now we've determined that our components are gonna fit. We've done all of our measurements. And we've gone ahead and marked the area where we want to put 'em. And all I did with that is when we chose that usable area we found where it was gonna fit. I just put a mark right at the center. And then I put a mark on each side. And then I measured from the front of the trailer to one edge, and I also measured from here to the leaf hanger to the leaf spring hanger at the front of the axle. And I just did that just so I know the distances here. So when I put the other side on, I can measure and check and make sure that this one's well, on the other side, it's gonna be in the exact same location. I went ahead and then just took the bracket here and just set it up on the bottom of the frame and used some clamps to hold it in place. The section right here, where you see there's a rectangle opening, that'll hang down. And then on top, there's actually a little lip here. That lip needs to butt up against the frame right there. So we pushed it up till it's tight up against the frame, flush up against the bottom and put our clamps on. Now we can go underneath and drill out the holes for our hardware. You're gonna have two round holes that we're gonna drill straight up through. And then you're also gonna have a slotted hole that that has a slotted, rectangular hole at the top. The round ones, you just go straight up through. The square ones are slotted here because the thickness and distance of your frame varies slightly. You'll see there are a couple of little notches on those. Ideally, you wanna have your hole that you drilled between those two little notches there. So we're gonna go up with our 5/16th drill bit. Once you have that drilled out, take the small carriage bolts that come included with your kit. We're gonna go up through the bottom. I like to poke my pinky up through that hole, and then line it up with the square. And then on the other side, we can thread our nut onto it. It just needs to be loose for now, so that's good. We'll do the same thing with the three remaining holes. We can then go back and tighten it down using a half inch socket. You don't need to put a wrench on the other side 'cause it's a carriage bolt, it fits in the square hole. I did kept my thumb on there just pushing upwards so it would stay in the square. Once we get all of 'em tightened down, we'll then wanna torque them to the specifications outlined in our instructions. So we got this all tightened and torqued down, we remove the clamps. You'll wanna do the same thing over on the other side. Once you've got both sides installed, you'll take the brackets that are like this. We want the slotted side. They're gonna hook on here, just like that and you can, then grab small carriage bolts. These are the same ones we we're using before. They're gonna drop down through the square hole in the bracket that we just sat on place. It's gonna drop down through the bracket that we had just installed. And then the other side of our carriage bolt, we'll place a nut. We want it to be loose at this time 'cause we are gonna have to slide in another piece. And in order to get it slid in place, we need this part to be adjustable. So we're just gonna drop the one in on the other side there, start the nut over here. And once you've got that started, you'll have a long bar that comes included with your kit. We're gonna take this bar. We're gonna slide it into our bracket here. And then that's gonna, if you got it slid into this one the same one that we've got loose on the other side. And then we'll slide it back into the one located on the other side. You'll notice that there's a hole pre-drilled in the center. This is the center of our bar. So we wanna make sure we've got this in roughly the center of our trailer. We wanna try to get it as close to the center as possible. So now that we've got our bar roughly centered, we can come back with our 13 millimeter socket once again, and we're gonna tighten down the carriage bolts that we had dropped down. We'll do this on each side. Now typically, once you tighten these down, it makes it difficult to adjust the bar left and right. So you do wanna make sure you got it centered. Now you'll notice that there's some holes located in the bracket that we had just tightened down. Those holes may or may not line up with holes that exist in your bar. There are some holes in this bar. However, in a lot of cases, they're just not gonna line up, and you're gonna have to drill your own holes. You'll wanna use a 3/8th drill bit when doing so. and then you could pass, all the way through. And if you are using a preexisting hole, I still recommend running your drill bit through it because, if it's not perfectly lined up you're gonna have a hard time getting the hardware in. Now, once you get that drilled out, we can then take our bolts. We're gonna slide it through. These are the longer hex head bolts that come in your kit. They're the long ones. Then we're gonna take a nut and secure it on the other side. We'll do the same thing for the other hole on this side. And as we've seen, we need to just clean that up just a little bit. And then we can get our bolt pass through. And again, we're gonna repeat that for the other side as well, until we got all these loosely secured. Now we can go ahead and prepare our hardware for the next step. I'd like to wait to tighten these down until we get kinda everything all set up. These are the shorter hex head bolts that come in your kit. We're gonna drop those down through the slotted holes here at the back. And then on our bracket here, where it goes across, you're gonna have several slightly slotted holes. Those are where our bolts will drop it down. Now with our extra set of hands, we're gonna lift this in position. And we mainly got another set of hands 'cause we're working on a lift here. So it's easier to film what we're showing you guys. You can easily do this at home on the ground without having to lift your trailer. And it'll be a little easier 'cause you can use a floor jack then. But once we get this held up here with our bolts slid through, we'll wanna start a that on each one. And if gotta push it to the side you can use the pressure to keep the bolt from sliding out on you. Once we get the ones in the back loosely started, it'll hang there. And then we'll wanna come to the other side and get at least one bolt started, one nut started on each bolt on each side here, at least one on each side. And this will ensure that it'll hold itself up so we can install the rest of our hardware. We'll get the other side set up just like this. And then we can go back and tighten down all of our hardware. The larger bolts, the hex head ones that we all used are going to use a 9/16th socket. So it is a slightly different size. So we can, first snug these up. And we can go back and tighten our crossbeam as well. And then we can go back and torque all of this hardware. Now we've got the front all installed and tightened down. We'll perform the same procedures in the back to get that one installed. Now that we've got all the jacks installed underneath here, I do recommend putting the sensors on while you're down here. You'll have a sensor that goes in both the front and the back, and this is what it uses to auto level your trailer. Your sensors, it pulls information from it and adjust the jacks appropriately until both the front and the rear sensor are saying that we're level. This needs to be installed in the center. So you might notice these little white marks I've made here as well as one here on the cross beam here. We measured the distance across the trailer to find the center, and then we mounted it here in the center using the provided self-tapping screws. Now this rear sensor you wanna have as close to the rear as possible, on a nice, solid cross beam. You can see here's our rear jack assembly that we had just installed. This is behind it. It does need to be a certain distance from behind it. You wanna just follow your instructions to ensure that you're a far enough distance back with the system will work best when it is closer towards the rear. It's gonna pick up the most movement out of your system when it's closer towards the rear as possible. The front sensor is basically the same way. We're gonna install this up at the front. And here you can see our front sensor. We've got this pretty much on the very front cross beam. You don't wanna put it on the A portion, but you definitely wanna be as far to the front as possible. This is the flat beam where the front of our trailer actually is, not the A-frame portion. Now, since we're working on a lift our trailer is already supported. When you go to replace your front jack, you do wanna make sure your front jack stands underneath the front before you take that front jack off. So that way it's supported. So you can easily get it in and out without your trailer moving on you. To remove your jack, you wanna make sure you've got it completely off the ground. We're still supported by our lifts here. So we're just gonna make sure it's not touching. And then we can remove our bolts. Now the sizes can vary, but we're using a 15 millimeter for these. Yours might be the same at home. After I get two of them removed, that third one and when I take it out I'm gonna leave it in just a thread or so. And that way our jack will hold in place because we still have our electrical wire we'll need to disconnect. So we're just gonna leave this guy hanging out right there, nice and loose. And then we'll head over to our battery so we can disconnect the power cable. Yours may look something similar to this. It may look a little bit different, depending on the options you have on your trailer. So just take off that positive battery post cable, and just remove the post that is for your jack which that's that one there. And then any other electrical connections you have you may wanna make sure you return those back to the battery positive. We're only disconnecting the jack wire. If there's any zip ties along the way, you wanna make sure you cut those as well. So that way you can easily slide your jack out. And then down here at the bottom before we slide our jack off, we wanna make sure that we take any feet or wheels or anything that we had down there off, so it will easily slide up. And just pull out that last bolt by hand. We can slide our jack up and set it aside. We then take our new jack, and just slide it down in the top. And then re secure it with the existing hardware. And just secure it back down. The red wire coming off of your new jack. You wanna route back towards your battery. You can see it already has a fuse harness that's in line. And the end here, is pre-stripped for us. So you need, you do need to provide your own ring terminal to attach it to your battery. We do sell those here at etrailer. So if you need one, just add it to your cart on checkout. Crimp it in place. And then we're just going to disconnect the same nut that we did before and slide this terminal on. So it's replacing the old wire that was there before. Our fuse harness here may or may not have the fuse already installed. So just check it to see if it does. If it does not, make sure that you put in the provided 30-amp fuse. And then you can put on the new foot pad. Or if you had a drop-leg or wheel that is the same size, you can try and put that on there as well. Secure it with the included pin. So the wire we ran to the battery, that's just for our light. But is powered up now we can use that. The actual jack to operate, it gets power from the connectors that are located down here. So you'll need to have your wires run to your control box in order to have the jack working. So now we've got this hooked up, let's go ahead and route these wires and we'll show you how we get to the box where we mounted our box, and all that good stuff. We're now inside our trailer's front lower compartment. This is the rounded edge. That's the front of the trailer here. And this is the passenger front portion where the opening for the door is right here. We're just to the front of that opening. This is where we mounted the main control box. This has, this is where all your wires are gonna come from to connect all the components together. This box we mounted up just using the provided wood screws. We just ran right into the wood here. I didn't get it kinda close to this door because I knew there was a support beam here to ensure we would have extra rigidness. Now that we've got the box mounted up we need to route all the wiring from this box to all the components that are mounted up. You'll notice down here in the floor, that there is a hole here. I cut this hole using a two and a 1/8th inch hole saw, and I just went straight down. You do have to, since this is curved here, you do have to come back a little bit. I would say we're probably about four, maybe five inches back. We're pretty much as close to this opening as we possibly could get to ensure that we could come down. 'Cause again, this is curved. We wanna make sure we poked down through the bottom of our floor. So once we cut that hole out, then we can start routing all our wiring. And the wiring is extremely easy on this route because everything is labeled on each end. For example, you can see here, this one says, LR that means it's still left rear. If we look here on our control box, just to the inside, it's labeled the right there that that is left rear. So we easily know which way to plug it in. The connectors are different on each end. So you can't mix that up either. Only one end is gonna plug here on the inside. So just take a peek at the plug where it says what's supposed to go there and then look at the plug on the end of your wires to determine which is the appropriate one for there. The wires are labeled like this because they are all different lengths because, depending on where you mount your box, it's usually recommended to be in the front compartment here as close to your batteries as possible. So that's why our left rear here is gonna be a different length than the right rear or the right front. So that's why they're all labeled. It makes it extremely easy. We just poke it down through our hole and we route it back. Some additional things we're gonna have besides the four jacks that we mounted underneath. We also have the two sensors, as well as our, control screen which we haven't shown you yet. We'll be seeing that here in a few minutes. And we also have a control panel that is routed over, on the driver's side. That's an exterior panel. So there's a lot of wiring here. And then of course, you've got your power and your ground located here at the top. These ones do all the wiring does come provided with you. Although the ring terminal ends that's on the wiring for your power and ground, I do recommend purchasing new ring terminals here at etrailer. The sizes that are on there didn't line up with the sizes of the post on our battery. So we did have to change those over. So here we've got our wires where they pass through. I did make a little slit in the, under shield here, so that way the wires would pass through. There is a, this it's almost like a tarp material. So once you cut your hole saw, you're not actually gonna be able to see that hole until you make a little slit in the tarp material and then you'll see that right above it. So all of our wires that we had plugged into the box, we routed 'em all down. And then once we routed them down we routed 'em to their particular components. So for our sensor wire, that's at the very front. We just routed that straight across. And we came into a preexisting hole that was here, and then we routed our wire here and then just plugged it in. The excess, we zip tied up to preexisting wiring that was down here. Next, we routed our wires to our front jacks. The one we'll connect to the jack right here on the outside of the frame. But the opposite side, I did have to drill a hole into the frame here in order to pass it through. I didn't feel comfortable hooking it above the frame. Even though I could fit my fingers in there, this is a lot of wires or large connectors. We don't want that to get damaged over time. So I did drill a hole through that. We used a one-inch drill bit to drill out that hole. The wires route across, we did zip tie it to the cross beam as we go. And once we get to our jacks, there are two connectors on the end, we plugged those in. The triangle one is a position sensor and then the thicker black and red wire here are the actual power wires that operate the jack. They have the same connectors at each jack. So you're just gonna plug those in. Again, you can see here that is labeled on this side. So it makes it really easy. We then just continue routing our wires towards the rear for both our rear jacks and the rear sensor. The one that's on the passenger side, I routed on the outside of the frame here and just kept going all the way down the frame until we hit the jack. And then we just plugged it in like the other one. We follow the wire up here just a little bit to right where our wheels are. Since this is on the outside of the frame, I didn't want any chance of this potentially contacting the wheel while driving. So you wanna make sure everything's secure. If you need some, wire loom clamps, we've got those here at etrailer. And you can use self-tapping screws to run 'em in the frame to keep your wiring nice and secure. For the rear, on the driver's side, we passed it through that hole that we drilled in the frame. And then we stay on the inside of the frame, just going all the way back until we reach the cross-member. From there, we routed across. We had to drill another hole in the frame over here to pass our wire through and then we plug it in. For our sensor wire, it continued going back a little bit further beyond our jack. Still, we hit the crossbeam, where we mounted the sensor. We then routed it over and plugged in our sensor. You can see it's the triangular shaped plug, just like the sensor plugs on all the jacks. Our front jack, we just routed the same path that we took to our front sensor. But instead of going through that hole in the frame, we just stayed down the A-frame until we got up here and then plugged our connections in. Next, we need to amount up the two control panels. You'll have an interior panel and an exterior panel. The exterior one, we mounted on the driver's side here at the front, towards the bottom 'cause we had a flat surface here. You don't wanna put it on any of these ridges. It's just gonna cause moisture to potentially get inside and cause damage to components. Plus there's nothing behind this. This is just a metal panel. So it made it really easy to cut and access the wiring on the other side. For cutting it out to mount it up here, all I did was hold the panel up here. It sticks out about a half an inch beyond it where all the electronics are actually located. And I just drew around that part where it's stuck out using a paint stick, and then I drilled holes in each corner, and then used my jigsaw to cut it out. Once I did that, I test the fit and filed as necessary until we had a nice fit where I could move it around and make sure it was level. I went ahead and just measured from this lip here down for each corner to make sure it was the same. So it was level and then ran the included self-tapping screws right into the metal panel. Here, if we look at the backside, you can see the parts that I was talking about where it stuck out. There's the screws where they ran through the front part of it. And you can actually still see the some of the white paint on there where I ran my paint stick around it, making my markings. We then plugged it in. And then this just routes across the front all the way over towards our control box. The self-tapping screws that come provided in your kit, we'll use a number two square bit. We're now inside the trailer. And this is right inside the door. When you first walk in just to your left, our customer has their sink located right there. There are some drawers that's located just on the other side of this panel. You can see the bracketry there. I went ahead and slid the drawers out so I could see behind it. You always wanna make sure that they're you're not gonna drill through a wall into any expensive or necessary components. We had plenty of opening here. So all I did was I used the bracket that comes included with it. This is the mounting bracket for your interior panel. I just held it up here. I used my paint stick. You can still see some of the markings on the bracket where I drew around it. Same thing as outside, I drilled four corners. You can kinda see here with the old one. You can see the corners where I had drilled. And then I used my, jigsaw, to cut it out. Afterwards, I used a file to clean it all up and then just test for fit to make sure it fits in there. So we'll just do that real fast. And the way this works is it actually slides in first and then you have to slide it down to lock it into place. So make sure you've got enough room cut out in there to do that. On the backside, you're gonna notice that we've got three little plug holes. The one plug hole located here. This is gonna be a little tiny harness that comes in your kit. It's only gonna be about, three to four inches. This is the powering round for your controller. It doesn't come with any other wiring for the power and ground for the controller. So you are gonna have to provide your own wiring connectors, ring terminals, and route that yourself. We do provide wire here at etrailer. So you can add that to your cart, as well as the butt connectors you need. We also routed in the gray harness that comes in your kit. This goes up to the control box and it actually just routed back, when we we're routing our wiring to our jack's towards the rear. We just followed that until we got about in the middle of the trailer. Then we went up through the floor into this compartment. The last one here, you're gonna see, it looks just like a plug with some heat shrink on it. That's actually a terminating resistor and it's necessary for CAN bus communication. There's also gonna be a another one of these terminating resistors plugged in on the control box, located at the front. It's right next to where the gray wire plugs in. Everything's gonna be labeled, they're labeled CAN 'cause that as the type of controller area network, CAN is what stands for, on how they are communicating with each other. So now that we've got those there, we can go ahead and slide this guy on. And if you look at your bracket, you'll see it's got a couple of little notches there at the bottom. Those will go into screw holes, located here in the bottom. So we'll slide that in, click it down. You'll have two really tiny screws. I left 'em in the bag because I didn't wanna lose them 'cause they're so small. And these just gonna run it right up into those openings. We have the camera on the inside, just on the other side of the panel. And here you can see the wires that we routed down. We used green wire that we had around the shop here to connect for both our power and our ground. I know that might make it a little bit confusing, but one just runs to the frame on the other side. We're gonna show you that here in a minute. You can see the hole in the floor there. That's here we poked down our gray wire for the CAN wire that runs up to the control box, as well as both our power and ground wires that we had connected. I drilled that out using a half-inch drill bit, and I just went straight down. It's always a good idea to look underneath and make sure there's nothing there. There's nothing in this location. And we'll head down there now so you can see where these are located. And we had to remove these drawers here so we could get access back to do all the installation. You can see also that when we go to put our drawers back in place, that our panel's not going to interfere with our drawers. We're now underneath the trailer. We're straight down from where we had drilled the hole to pass our wires through here. You can see the two green wires coming out as well as the gray wire. The green wire connected to the red wire inside's our power wire. We just follow the rest of the wires we'd routed for our jacks. We just route that along those towards the front. The gray wire also goes that way. The other green wire that we attached to the black wire on the inside, that actually just goes right over to the frame and we just run it in with a self-tapping screw. We put a ring terminal on it. And you can see that if you just look right towards the frame. We're now here at the front of our trailer. 'Cause I always like to hook up power and ground last. That way, when you're routing all your wires, there's no chance you could accidentally cause a short. So back here at the front here's our sensor wires and for the panel going over there. And then here's our red and our black wire that was connected to the control box inside. Now, typically this box, would be mounted right next to your batteries in your interior battery compartment. But since this trailer has an exterior mounted battery we had to put the control panel inside because that panel is not waterproof. So due to having to put that panel so far away from the battery, we put a circuit breaker in between. So that way, if there was any shorts that occurred when we pass through any holes that we had drilled or anything like that, that we are protected and we're not gonna damage anything on our trailer. We used a 120-amp circuit breaker from Buyers to do this. We just cut the red wire while we we're routing it towards our battery and just put this in between the red wire. We added some ring terminals on it and then just screwed it down. This does have caps to cover those up. The black wire, which is right here, just continued on towards the battery. Both of our red and black then they just go over to the battery. And we did have to change out the ring terminals that we're on the positive because it was too small, it wouldn't fit on the post. The negative ring terminal was fine. So we we're able to put it on there and then just attach it up. You'll also notice, back at our circuit breaker, just to the right of it, we've got another circuit breaker. This is the green wire that is our power wire that's going to that interior control panel that we we're just installing. We added a circuit breaker here. You can use a 20 or 30 amp, either one would be fine. You can get that at etrailer here as well. We hooked up the green wire to the ox post, the silver post. And then this is our battery post here which would connect to the battery. But rather than connecting to the battery, we just went right over, made a little jumper and connected to our circuit breaker right here. That way we are protected through two breakers there. And with this one here, it's just a shorter run. So it's less wire, less chance for issues. Now we've got everything installed. We want to come inside and hit the button located at the bottom on our panel. If it isn't lit up, that's gonna turn it on. And, you wanna make sure everything's working properly. Now, when it first turns on you're gonna get a jack error message. And you're gonna get one for every jack that you just installed. Don't freak out, that's normal because the jacks have yet to calibrate themselves. They don't know their current position. So in order to get them to calibrate, you'll want to manually extend each jack no less than six inches. Then just press the auto retract button. And when it retracts the jacks, it's actually checking the position of each one. And so that way it's able to learn its proper position. It'll clear out those errors and then you'll be ready to use the system once you've done that. I do recommend after that to go ahead and hit the auto level. Make sure you're in an area where you can level it. Just to make sure all the jacks are functioning properly. Now that we've operated it and we've verified that it auto levels and everything works at this point, this is a great opportunity to go back and clean up anything on your install. Any of your wiring, I highly recommend you go through it with zip ties and make sure it's nice and tight and secured all the way along. And any holes that you drilled, you wanna fill those in with some kind of sealant to ensure that there's no leaks of moisture. We're just using some expanding foam, some gap and crack filler to fill this in. We'll wipe up any excess that we've got here once we fill it all in. And that completes our installation of Lippert's Ground Control TT Self-Leveling System on our 2018 Jayco Jay Flight SLX..


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Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Chris R
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Employee Randy B
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Randy B
Employee David F
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