bing tracking image

Lippert JTs Strong Arm Jack Stabilizer Kit Installation - 2011 Forest River Surveyor Travel Trailer

content loading

Customers compare LC191025 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Lippert JTs Strong Arm Jack Stabilizer Kit on a 2011 Forest River Surveyor Trave


Hi there Forest River owners, 10 year 2011 Forest River Surveyor. We're gonna be taking a look at and shown you how to install JT's Strong Arms Jack Stabilizer. These jack stabilizers are gonna add additional rigidness to your stabilizer jacks. That's on your trailer. These are designed to work with a lot of different style of stabilizer jacks. We're showing them off on a scissor style, but if you've got a C style, it works with those as well.

If you follow your instructions, you'll see how those would set up on those other style of jacks. So this is very similar, but it is slightly different. Now, before we install our stabilizer arms, I've gone ahead and lowered down the stabilizer jacks in each corner. So we can get a baseline of how it feels without any stabilizer arms. And it's fairly sturdy, but you can definitely see movement down on our jacks down there where they wobbled down there at the bottom.

So putting some stabilizer arms down there is gonna help ensure that our jacks don't have any wobble and it's gonna minimize that what we have here. So that way, when we're inside of our motor home or our trailer here, it's not gonna feel like we're standing on a wobbly platform. It's gonna be just like solid ground. Now that we've got them installed, we draft them all down and secured each of our stabilizers. Let's recheck to see how much better it's gonna be.

And boys, is this thing solid. I mean, I'm pushing it as hard as I can on it here. And we've got no movement whatsoever. Our jacks are completely solid before the jacks we're really wobbly, and you could tell they're older jacks. It was kinda questionable how long they would last in a really heavy movement event.

They're definitely gonna last now without worry about any kind of movement. So on those weekends, when you need that extra half hour of sleep, and the kids wake up early, and they're running around, you're not gonna be disturbed. You're just gonna enjoy all your sleep, wake up, and have a nice refresh day where you can start all your activities. And you can ensure that your camper is gonna be in the exact location it was when you get back. Things aren't hit won't have moved around and bounced around from winds and various things out of your campsite. Well, I'll show you how they work. One of the things that I liked about these is that once you have them installed, they stay on your trailer, and they're just there and ready to use every time that you're ready for them. We've currently got them down in the locked-in position here. So we can have our support. Both handles are twisted and lock tight to ensure that we've got that support. So when we're gonna move it up and down, we wanna make sure that we've loosened this up. And on our front jacks, we've got two stabilizers. There's only a single stabilizer for the rear jacks. So you need to loosen up however many there are. Once they're loose, you can operate your Jack up and down, and you'll see that the tube here will go inside of the other tube. So that way it will just retract into itself without you having to do any more work. And you can see they're not gonna take up any more room. They're gonna be right underneath our trailer. And the bottom of our jack here is still the lowest point. So it's gonna be the lowest spot on our departure angle. Once we've got them all the way up, I do recommend just snugging these back down. You don't need to go crazy tight with them. Just put a little snug on them, and that'll help prevent any rattles and vibrations as you're going down the road. It can also stabilize the jack and keep it in a secured up position, so it's not gonna vibrate as much. All that's just going to minimize any damage and wear that's gonna occur on your jack over time cause it's holding it in place, any kind of movement you have is eventually gonna wall out different pivot points and stuff like that. So the more secure it is, the longer it's gonna last. The arms here are designed to attach to C, H, and I beam frames. So pretty much regardless of what type of trailer you've got, it is gonna be able to accommodate and attach to those. And they're also designed to work with various types of jacks on your trailer. Whether you have traditional stabilizer jacks, scissor jacks for landing gear, there are options to attach those to it that come with your kits. So you are gonna get some extra hardware with it, and you can see here in the back, our arm where it attaches. It's very similar to how the front arm attaches, but you do only have a single arm here in the back. Included in the kit, you're gonna get a total of six arms that's gonna be one for each side here in the back, and two for each side in the front, as well as all the necessary hardware to get it attached to both your stabilizer jacks, as well as to the frame. You'll get a couple of different options for frame mounting as well, for the various different styles of frames out there. There's no welding required. However, you are gonna have to drill some holes into the frame, but all in all, it's actually a pretty quick and easy installation. The very first one you put on might take a second cause there's a little bit of measurements and stuff to figure out where they go. But once you figure out the one, the rest of them all fall into place really fast. Follow along with us. We'll show you how to get them installed. We'll begin our install at one of our jacks wanna have our jacks retracted, and we need to remove the bolts that attach our footplate. You'll want to refer to your instructions to get the exact location to install your components on those. But in most cases, they're gonna be attaching down towards the feet here and then attaching up on the frame somewhere. So on our scissor jack here, we're gonna remove both the bolts attaching our feet. I like to do one at a time. Ours are a half-inch socket and wrench, but they will vary depending on the manufacturer. After we get one removed, we'll check that our bolts will fit the new one that we're gonna be putting in there. So I went ahead and removed the outer one first, and the new bolts we're gonna be putting in are these here with the eyelet on them. For the outside one, if you're working on the scissor jacks, you'll wanna have this pointed toward the rear. So we're gonna slide this in like this. But if we look, our bolt doesn't fit in there. So some jacks, you're gonna be able to slide these right in some you're not gonna be able to, and you're gonna have to drill these out. We're gonna have to drill ours out. So we're gonna use a 3/8 drill bit to drill through our jack until we can get our hardware to fit. Once you've got it drilled out, you'll just slide your hardware through. Sometimes you have to drill it out multiple times depending on the quality of your Jack. If it's pretty beat up like this one here. Then we might have to rim it a couple of times till we get everything to line up. Then, just work it through. Well, then put a washer and a lock nut in place. And I'd like to leave it loose for now. So we can kinda move this around. We're gonna remove the other bolt repeat the same procedure, except for this time, we're gonna slide the bolt with the eyelet facing towards the front of the trailer. We can then tighten them down. When you use an adjustable wrench to hold the one side and a 9/16 socket for the nut on the other side. And that's really all we're looking for we want it to draw it down until it can be adjusted because it needs to be able to pivot like this. I want it to be kinda to where it feels snug, but yet you can still move it by hand, there should be some resistance there to it. We'll then tighten down our other one. So we've got our attachment points on our feet. We can go ahead and prepare our legs and the attachment points where they're gonna connect to our trailer. For your front jack, you're gonna have two arms, and for your rear jack, you're just gonna have a single arm. So the single arm for the rear is gonna be the one that goes from the attachment point in your foot towards the center of the trailer. The ones that are exclusive to the fronts is the additional one here. That's gonna go from our attachment point down towards the rear of our trailer. Those are only for the front. So for the ones that go towards the center, we're gonna attach that to the frame of our trailer. Using these brackets here, the eyelet here is where our arms going to attach. So we're gonna slide that up into our bracket. And then up on the inside, we're gonna place a flat washer. It can be a little tricky to get it in there. And then we're gonna put a nut on there as well. And what I like to do for the nut, so actually kinda drop it down some, that way I can have a little more space to get my hand up in there to set it up on top because it can be a little cumbersome. Let's see you get it kind of on top of there like that. You can then twist the bolt to thread it into the nut. Once we get it started, we can go ahead and tighten it down. We'll be using our adjustable wrench and a 9/16 socket to do so. Now, one of the tricks that I did find don't use your box end because once you thread this up, the box end gonna get caught up in there. So make sure you use the open end when tightening this down. As long as you can spin this by hand like this, then you've got the right tightness. We don't wanna have any play in it. We do want it to be snug, but it does need to be able to move. So that way, you can adjust as you raise and lower your jack arms. So we got that one prepared. We're gonna install this one first. So we're gonna set the arm that goes towards the rear side for now. Well, then grab the arm that we're going to install and we're gonna loosen up the T nut here. And then we're gonna adjust this arm out one inch from the point here, where they can well this to the inside point here and then just snug it down. So we can go ahead and attach our arm to the foot leg here on the front of the trailer. Sometimes the powder coating is a little bit thick, and it makes it a little stiff there; Just kinda give it a little tap, and you can knock that bit of powder coating off. We want the T handle end to be towards the attachment point here. We can then take one of the hex head bolts that comes in our kit; we're gonna put a washer on it. We're gonna drop it down through our arm and the attachment point that we had installed, place add another flat washer and a lock nut on the other side. And then we can go ahead and snug these down. These also need to, we want them snug, but they need to remain loose enough that we can pivot our arm on it. So we wanna see this arm pivot smoothly. It does. So if that moves on you, that's no big deal. We're actually gonna have to twist this anyway because we want our T handle to face towards the upper position. And then we'll readjust that distance to right around an inch, then snug it down. We can now attach our other side. I was just gonna drop down in there. We're gonna use the same hardware to attach our arm to the eyelet there that we did on the other side. We'll then put our bolt, slide it through. We're gonna place a flat washer on the other side and then a locking nut. And once again, we're gonna snug this down until we can pivot this piece, but it will still be snug. So now we've got our attachment here. We've still got our arm adjusted out to about one inch. We can then pivot it up to the front bottom part of our frame here. This is where we're gonna make our marks and drill out our holes to use the self-tapping screws to run it into the frame. So we can just make our marks now, and then we'll drill those out. Now that we've made our marks. We're just gonna drill those out, using a 5/16 drill bit. We can now run our hardware up into the holes that we had just created. And I recommend it not running it all the way down, so you can still pivot it and get your other bolt hole lined up. And I'm actually gonna go ahead and remove this arm just because it's gonna make it a lot easier to get this ran in, and then we'll just re-tighten down this hardware. Now we're gonna install the arms that go towards the rear. I've gone ahead and attach it to the eyelet because it's the same as the front one here. And to determine the attachment on the other end of this, we actually have to make a measurement and mark. The measurement we need to make does vary depending on the type of frame you have and the type of jacks you're using. So you do want to refer to your instructions for those for our particular setup here with the type of frame we've got here and this jack we're gonna be measuring 27 and three-quarter inches back. And that's where we're gonna put our mark. We'll be attaching our stabilizer arm to the eyelet through a hole that connects to the frame here at that marked point. But we need to stiffen this up. You can see it's just this little part here. So we're gonna add this piece in there as well and drill a hole through the other side here and then use a nut or bolt to attach it to ensure that we've got plenty of strength on our frame. So we're just gonna hold this up here, where the mark is the closest to the front is gonna be where our eyelet is gonna run through. So we're gonna mark it right at that point, and then we're gonna mark this other hole and drill both of those out with a 3/8 drill bit. We can then attach our eyelet to our hole that we just drilled. And I like to get the eyelet attached first. That way, I can use the bracket here as a template to drill out the second hole. That way, I just know everything's gonna line up. We wanna eyelet like this to where the flat part is angled towards the front. That way, the ears will easily slide up over our eyelets so we can make our attachments. We can now grab our arm. We're gonna bring it over, slide it up over the eye. Again, that powder coat can be pretty stiff sometimes, but once you work it up on there a couple of times knocks off some of that powder coat, and it makes it a little bit easier to get these on. There we go. We've got it lined up with the hole. We're gonna use the same hex bolt and combination of washers and nuts that we've been using. Now we've got all of our hardware tightened down. We can repeat these same procedures on the other side to get that one installed. The only real difference here is that in the front for the arm that went towards the center, we use the center bolts on the foot, for the rear jacks, we're gonna use that outer bolt as towards the outside of the trailer and then put our eyelet on it and attach it. And that completes our installation of the JT Strong Arm Jack Stabilizer on our 2011 Forrest River Surveyor..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.