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Lippert High-Speed Power Stabilizer Jack Installation - 2021 Coachmen Apex Travel Trailer

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How to Install the Lippert High-Speed Power Stabilizer Jack on a 2021 Coachmen Apex Travel Trailer


Hi there trailer owners. Staying in your 2021 Coachmen Apex Ultra Lite, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Lippert PSX1 High-Speed Powered Stabilizer jacks. These are available in three different options. You can get it with either a black switch, a white switch, or with no switch, if you're planning on using an existing one you've already got. These high-speed powered stabilizers are gonna be a significant upgrade over your factory manual stabilizer jacks. First off, those ones there you can see they're significantly smaller.

So, I mean they flop around a lot more so they don't provide as much support as these larger ones. These are much more stable than your other ones. Those ones are also manually powered, so you have to get out your tool and you have to move this and adjust it every time you wanna do that. And you have to do that at every corner, so that's four times. With this guy here with the push of a button we're operating both the driver and the passenger side at the same time.

So we're cutting our work down significantly 'cause we don't have to operate those manually and we're saving a bunch of time by doing twice the work faster than you could do on a single jack. Now these do come as a quantity of one. So you wanna make sure that you can pick up two so you can get the same easy operation here at the back as well. To give you an idea of how our stabilizers function, first we've got them fully raised up so you can see what a trailer would be like if you get some heavy cross winds or something at your campsite. Or you got some people maybe walking around on the inside.

And you can see it's good, it's rocking pretty good. This will definitely be disturbing if you we're inside trying to walk around or anything, possibly lose your footing. And if you we're trying to sleep at night this could definitely wake you up and make it difficult. Now we'll take a couple of seconds here to lower down our stabilizer. I'm gonna ahead of the back and do that as well.

So now we've got our stabilizers down and it has made a pretty significant difference. You can see there is still gonna be a little bit of rocking 'cause we're not gonna eliminate everything, but it has made a huge difference over what we had before. And we can get even further stability by using the factory jacks that are still in place. To further stabilize your trailer you can also pick up a set of Ultra-Fab chock and lock wheel stabilizers. This is a perfect setup for a tandem axle trailer. Now you do wanna keep in mind that these are just stabilizer jacks they're not leveling Jack, so they're not designed to really lift up your trailer and level it out. But that is kind of neat that you can install this in combination with your factory ones. 'Cause you could potentially use one of those factory ones to lift up a troublesome corner that might be dipping down and then drop these down to make sure that it stays in that position. And we've got about 30 inches of travel on our stabilizer here, so there's a much longer distance than your factory one. So there's a good chance that you're definitely gonna be able to contact the ground and be stable with these installed. If you do have a particularly high trailer, maybe you've put a lift kit or something like that on it, and you need to get a little bit extra out of your stabilizer, we do have spacers available here at etrailer, these can drop it down a couple of inches. So it will give you a little bit a couple more inches of distance of travel there on towards the ground. And if you have issues with clearance when getting your jacks installed, the spacers can give you two inches of space between the bottom of the frame and across beam of your stabilizer which could make a break getting this installed on your trailer depending on where you've got things routed. Now we've covered some of the features of our stabilizer why don't you follow along with us and we'll show you how to get these installed. We are gonna be using the spacers with this particular project here. So if you we're interested in those, we're gonna show you how to get those on. We'll begin our installation by determining our approach and our departure angles and where our stabilizer can fit in that zone without crossing beyond it, so that way it's not gonna be a contact point as your vehicle pivots up and down when going down the road. To do this, we're gonna first check our approach angle which is the front, and then your departure angle is the rear. For our approach we're gonna hook a string or a tape measure, whatever you've got, just hook it underneath. And this is gonna stretch all the way to the front of the A-frame of your trailer, and everything that's above the tape measure align we know it's gonna be clear to where nothing is gonna contact it ever when going down the road. But anything below the departure line, it could potentially contact something as we pivot up and down the road as our trailer bounces up and down. We know that our jack is about four, our stabilizer is about four and a 1/2 inches tall. So we wanna make sure that when we're checking this we've got a space between the frame and our departure, and our approach line here is at least four and a 1/2 inches. And we'll make a mark there. Another thing you wanna consider is if you're gonna use spacers or not. Our customer wanted to use spacers with his, and this is the spacer designed to work with the PSX1 stabilizer. It'll bolt directly to the stabilizer and give you an additional two inches, dropping it down. That's gonna allow it to contact the ground faster and it's also gonna ensure that you're gonna be able to contact the ground, 'cause it's gonna go down two inches further. This also gives you clearance if you've got some items that are underneath the trailer. If we look under there we can see there's a hose that's running underneath our trailer. Normally we would have to move stuff like that out of the way, or with a spacer like this, we can drop our stabilizer down to clear it. We mentioned that it was four and a 1/2 inches for the height of our stabilizer Jack when you're checking your approach and your departure angles. If you're using these you need to add that into your measurement, so that's another two inches, so we're looking at six and a 1/2 inches for our particular one we are installing since we're using those. Our six and a 1/2 inch mark for our approach angle ended up being right here. Our factory stabilizers are already in place there. Now you could remove these and we could install it here, but our customer wanted to keep his factory stabilizers and add this in addition. We can install our stabilizer anywhere inside of the approach or departure angle. The further you are away from the axles the better it's going to stabilize your trailer. But if we're going back a little bit it's not to hurt it. So we're just gonna install ours right here behind our factory stabilizers. So I just kind of made some marks when we're holding up and testing the position to see if our crossbeam and everything was gonna clear. We ended up choosing this point here. Once you've chosen where you're gonna put the front edge of your stabilizer, I would then recommend to measure the distance of your stabilizer and then make another mark on the other side so you know that position and then you can measure that to the front of the trailer and make those same marks on the other side. So that way it's completely even all the way across. If you're using the spacers like we are just keep in mind that it is gonna be a little bit wider, you can see how they angle out. It's about 20 inches when these are installed on here for the distance from the edge to edge. So now we've got our position selected where we're gonna be installing it, we needed to prepare the bottom here. We need to be able to put our stabilizer flush up against the bottom of the frame. So if you've got anything in there, like any bolts or trim beets you need to remove those, and we did take our razor knife and we cut out some of the insulation right here, just where it sticks underneath the frame. That way when our stabilizer goes up, it's gonna make direct contact with it. Now we've gone ahead and prepared the other side the same way on the bottom of the frame. So at this point you'll either lift your stabilizer up and you'll be using this as a template to get it installed into your frame. Or if you're installing the stabilizers spacers, you'll need to put those stabilizers spacers on first. So to do this you'll receive hardware with your stabilizer spacers, you can see that here. You will have two volts and two nuts per spacer. We're just gonna drop that down on the inside there. We're also gonna drop one down on the inside through here, and then it is gonna line up with our stabilizer jack. You can use either of those middle holes, whichever one you want, make it a little bit wider if you use that inside hole, and it'll be a little bit narrower if you use the other hole. But either one is perfectly fine. After we've got those fed down through there we'll just take our nuts, reach around the backside here and just to thread those on there. You can go ahead and leave these loose, we can tighten these up at a later step. So I'm just gonna run it down, just about until the nut touches, just to help keep it from rattling around too much. Now we're over on the other side. We're ready to lift it up so we can get it attached to the frame, but it's pretty heavy device. You could put some jack stands under it and next set of hands to help you lift it up there and mark it up. But the easiest way is to just use the stabilizer to have it lift itself up. You can do this manually or using the manual crank lever. This does not come included with the stabilizer, but you can purchase it separately here at etrailer. And it's a pretty nice thing to have on hand. If you've got your stabilizers down and all of a sudden you had a power failure, maybe some circuits blew, or maybe you just ran out of power, you have no way to then lift your stabilizers up unless you've got something like this. So we can stick this in there and then manually retract those so we can get home. This will slide on the shaft here in the end, we can see it's got a couple notches in it, those are gonna line up with the notches on the stabilizer, and then we just crank it open. And you can see here as I'm cranking it it does lift it up a little bit. There we go. We can just crank it all the way up like this. And now I'm gonna show you another trick, we're gonna head over to the other side. Now another way you can do though since it doesn't come with that lever, we can just go ahead and use the motor right here to lift it up. You gonna use the battery it's on your trailer and run some wires over to do it, or we're just gonna use a jump box here, it's a little bit easier, we have a little more control with the jump box. We're gonna hook the red wire to our positive circuit. And then we're gonna hook the negative here to the black wire. And we're now in the extended position, if we need to retract it to come back down you can just swap those two wires, just reverse those. So now when we turn our jump box on, it raising it right up. I am helping it 'cause it doesn't necessarily wanna raise evenly 'cause we're not attached to anything. So you kinda gotta assist it a little bit, the motor side is a little bit heavier on the side. All right, and we just kissed the bottom there I just turned off the jump box, so now we lift it up into position. What is the easiest thing to do Is to use self tapping screws to hold it up into place, to ensure it can't move. You can get self tapping screws at your local automotive store or your hardware store, they do not come provided with your kit. We'll take self tapping screws, and this does change a little bit depending on how you're installing this. If you we're installing just the stabilizer, you would take the self-tapping screws and run it into the bottom of the frame with the inside set of holes near the crossbeam. If you're using the spacer, you'll then take your self-tapping screw and we're gonna use that inside slotted hole here to get this installed. So we're just gonna push this in place here and then just run it right up into the frame. We're gonna repeat that for the remaining three corners of our stabilizer, so that way it'll hold it in place. And we're doing this because after you get those are all run in, you just wanna check to see here that it's flushed because we can always just loosen this up and make our adjustment and then re-snug it get down. And then we'll do the same thing at the other stabilizers with a single screw that's holding them in place. Once you've got them all adjusted and everything is to your liking, nice and smooth here, we'll then take a 3/8 drill bit and we're gonna drill out a hole in the outer slotted hole for the hardware that comes included with your stabilizer. That's what's gonna actually attach it to the frame is the hardware that comes with the PSX1. Take our 3/8 drill bit and drill on through. I can use a little bit of lubricate when drilling to make a drill a little bit easier. With that hole drilled out we'll take the bolt that comes with the PSX1 we're gonna drop it down through the frame, placing the plunged nut on the other side. And then we're just gonna repeat this again at the remaining three corners of our PSX1 here, to get that fully attached to the frame all the way around. We can not go back with a 9/16 socket and wrench and tighten down our hardware. And your stabilizer spacers if you're using those, we had those loose so we can adjust it and everything, we wanna also go back in and make sure we get those snugged down as well now. And then we can go back and torque all of that hardware to the specifications outlined in your instructions. So now we got our stabilizer installed, you would install your rear one exactly the same, I just wanna check that departure angle it's the same thing. You're just measuring from the rear axle to the rear bumper to get that line and then put it in the inside that measurements. Well then wire them up. So to be able to wire them up, we need to determine where we're gonna put our switches. So here is the switch that came in our kit. You can also purchase these without a switch, if you've got a switch in mind, maybe you've already got one in your trailer that's blank, and you wanna use that one you can as well. We're gonna be using the one that they come with if you purchased them with a switch. And we're gonna mount it just right here in the skirt here on the side. 'Cause if we look here at the back, just kind of feel around there, there's nothing right here, there's nothing that's gonna obstruct us, and it's gonna be really easy to get it mounted up here. So to do this I'm gonna take my paint stick and I'm just taking the switch here and I'm just kind of setting it in roughly the location I want it to go. That look pretty good right there. We're just gonna take our paint stick and we're just gonna mark right around it. So now we've got it marked we know where we wanna put it, we can go ahead and cut out that area. To do this we're gonna be using a drill and a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade in it. We're gonna start with our drill and a 1/2 inch drill bit. And we're gonna place it in one corner. We're gonna drill out that corner and then we're gonna drill out the opposite corner. So now we've got it drilled, we can then just take our jigsaw here and we're gonna finish cutting it out. So long we've got it cut just check your fit. It's not uncommon to have to maybe go in there and clean it up just a little bit, 'cause we we're trying to stay towards the inside of our marks. So yeah, we need to take out just a little bit more material. You can either do that with a file or your jigsaw. So we're just gonna clean this up a little more until our switch fits. I always like to go a little bit smaller to make sure that we don't take out too much material. But if we look at our switch it does have a very large outer bezel to cover up any mistakes that you might make. We now gonna attach it, you do have to provide your own hardware. We're just using some small self-tapping screws to run it into place. After you put your first one in that's when you can use an opportunity to pivot it a little bit left or right. You can see we got a little bit of movement there until we get it to where it's nice and even in level. It looks pretty good right there. And just run it in place. We'll then just repeat that for the two holes there. So now that we've got all of our major components mounted up, we can start wiring it up. And I do recommend to maybe have the rear one installed as well, get all those components installed the same. It can make it easier for routing your wiring 'cause if you've got your components installed you know exactly where you need to run your wires to get there. So here at our battery we hooked up to our positive posts, we've got some ring terminals we just attach this to some duplex wire. And we actually have both of these hooked positive, we're using the black wire here for the rear set of jacks and the white wire here for the front set of jacks to power those up. You can get ring terminals and duplex wire here at etrailer. From here these will go down the frame, and then just right there on the frame underneath, we installed a couple of circuit breakers there. Now these are 20 Amp circuit breakers, these are not the ones that come in your kit. You don't have to use circuit breakers, you could also use a fuse. You just need to make sure you've got a circuit protection here close to your battery. So we just chose 20 Amp breakers, you could use 20 Amp inline fuse. You can get both those here at etrailer. We hooked our, these are the two coming from the battery positive there. And then we hooked it back up here using the duplex wire to route those towards the back. And we just followed it down the frame rail heading towards our jacks. When you hook up your wires to your circuit breaker you wanna make sure you have your power supplies hooked to the bronze post it's labeled battery, the jack and the output is always gonna be on the silver post labeled aux. The circuit breaker here comes included with our kit, so we just attached our wire that we ran back to it. Then coming out of our circuit breaker here we attach to the red wire going to our switch and the black wire on our switches are ground wire. So we just attach it to a piece of wire and then attach it to a self tapping screw going into the frame here to get our ground directly from the frame. So we've got power and ground now hooked up to our switch. We need to take from our switch now to our jack and hook those up. Your jack has a red and a black wire on it. The red wire we're gonna hook to the blue wire and the black wire we're gonna hook to the yellow wire. If you hook these up backwards your system will still function, it'll just function in reverse. So if you we're to tract the extend the jacks it would actually retract them. So just make sure you got these hooked up like this. We connect it up all of our circuits here using heat shrink butt connectors. You can get heat shrink butt connectors here at etrailer. I do recommend that they are heat shrink because this is outside of our trailer, so it's exposed to moisture, dirt, and debris. So this will keep all that out to ensure we have long lasting connections and operation of our jacks here. And now we'll just repeat this exact same wiring setup for our back jack. The only thing that's gonna be different is our power supply wire's not white, it's a black wire. Otherwise everything is gonna be the same. We had already extended our jacks when we're installing them, so let's bring them back up. And it looks like they're retracting everything seems to be working properly. You have to get the plastic, any wrap that you've still got on there peel that back off now. Make sure it works in both directions. And it looks like everything is working properly, so we're ready to get out there and get camping. And that completes our installation of Lippert PSX1 High-Speed Powered Stabilizer jack on our 2021 Coachmen Apex Ultra Lite..


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Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
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Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
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Test Fit:
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