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Solera 12V XL Power RV Awning Installation - 2021 Keystone Raptor 5W Toy Hauler

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How to Install the Solera 12V XL Power RV Awning on a 2021 Keystone Raptor 5W Toy Hauler


Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer. And today we're taking a look at installing the Solera XL from Lippert. This is gonna be a replacement awning for your RV, and today we have it on a 2021 Keystone Raptor. Now you can see right away, this is a very large awning. In fact, it extends nine foot out, and this one is 20 foot long. So this is gonna give you a lot of shade coverage and that's why it lives up to the name XL.

So this one is a great way to have that powered on come out, so you can extend that out, and really add shade to any campground ,and be able to hang out with plenty of real estate for you and your friends. So not only can this replace your old awning, but also being an XL, this is gonna give you 20% more shade than your typical Solera. Now being rather large, if you are concerned about wind causing damage which can be a real thing on these, we do offer the Solera umbrella, and that's gonna allow a center support to really give it a little bit more bracing, and give you peace of mind. So if you want, you can check that out on etrailer, and determine the right length for yours. Now as far as installation goes, obviously it's rather large, so you are gonna need a few things, including a couple of ladders that are tall enough to reach up to your extrusion rail, a couple of buddies to help feed that into the rail, and also a couple of hours.

Also, some power tools are gonna really help here, it's not too much hardware, but overall setting aside a few hours to get it shaded for the rest of the time on your RV I think is well worth it. Determining the length of roller that you need, you're gonna wanna measure from the center of the arm, to the center of the other arm, and that way it's not just the length of the roll itself, you're gonna be using that measurement from armed arm. So make sure that's gonna be an important thing. Otherwise, if you go by the fabric with, you're going to be too wide. So go ahead, go from the center, measure out where you're going to be to the next one, and that's gonna give you your measurement.

Now our neighbor today has actually had a tree fall on their previous one, so there's already marks made where they had their arms previously installed. So we're gonna be reinstalling a new one here, that way they can get their shade back when they're camping. If this is a new installation, you're gonna wanna make sure that you have an extrusion rail, and this is where our channel of the bead is going to actually feed in, holding the fabric in place. So if you don't have one already, a lot of campers will have them, you can pick one up here at etrailer, and that way you can get your bead fed in. Now something you're gonna want to do, is on this outside edge, take just a flat head screwdriver, and you're gonna wanna open up this bead a little bit.

It's gonna make it a lot easier sliding that bead through, and just make it easier while we feed it in. So just bowing it out a little bit like that. Again, it's gonna make it easier to feed, but also it's not gonna catch as we go, so it is gonna prevent it from cutting, or damaging as we feed it. Now since our customer already had theirs on, and we have the holes already. So I'm gonna be putting a little bit of butyl tape here, and that's gonna help to kind of get that arm to not only adhere better before putting the hardware on, but also as we draw that hardware in, it's gonna create a nice seal here, and that way where the hardware goes in, we don't have to worry about water getting in there long term. Now if you are doing a new installation, you're gonna want to get years in place, and determine height-wise exactly where you want it, and also make sure that it's gonna be leveled with the other one. So go ahead and make your marks, and you can get ready to drill that in later on as we get the arm up. But again, this butyl tape is gonna just help if you already have those preexisting holes. So since we know exactly where our holes already are, I'm gonna go ahead and put the butyl tape here. Now if again, yours is a new installation, you can actually put this on the arms, and that way it'll be ready for when you put those screws through. So now you're gonna want to go ahead and get your arm set up, and you're gonna see it can really only go one way because this is where our awning is going to attach to. Now, in order to get to where we're going to be mounting this up on the side of the RV, we're gonna need to remove the zip tie. Now it is under pressure from the gas strut, so you're gonna wanna be careful here So when you open this up, just make sure that it's not gonna pop towards you. So we'll go ahead, and get this cut. You can see it's starting to open up a little bit. Just let this extend out. Now, because this is XL, our holes that we previously had aren't all gonna line up, and that's because this has a further extension, and part of that is gonna be our wiring is gonna be in a different location. So what I'm gonna do is hold up, our top holes should be the same here, but as I kind of hold this in place I can see where I'm gonna have to drill out some holes to allow us to get that wiring in place. I've gone ahead with paint marker, and made a mark where we're gonna need to drill a hole to allow our factory wiring to go through here. Before we do that, on the backside there's gonna be a channel that we can pop out, and just by your hands there, and that's gonna allow us to move our wire out of the way so we don't damage that in the process. So we'll go ahead, get this drilled out. So now unfortunately, since only the top poles are lining up, we're gonna have to go ahead and put some butyl tape on our other holes that are on the rail. So I'm gonna just put the middle one, it does allow you to have different points here, but the middle one should be just fine as we don't have anything that's gonna be in the way. So we'll go ahead, get some butyl put on these holes as well as the bottom one. Now if you already have a connector on your RV side, we're gonna go ahead and cut this off because our actual powered lift is just gonna be two bare wires. No worries, we're gonna cut this, peel this back, and we'll be able to attach that later with some heat shrink butt connectors. So we'll go ahead get our connector taken off. It's also gonna make it easier to pass through that hole that we just made. So we're gonna go ahead and take our screws, and I'm gonna get this top one mounted up, it's gonna make it easier for the rest of our hardware to go up in place, and we don't have to completely crank this down because we're gonna want a little bit of adjustment down below, so we'll just make it nice and snug so it'll support itself. My top one's holding this in place. This is a good chance to really make sure that we're level here. So I've passed my wire through the hole that we drilled, and I'm gonna go ahead level this up, and then once we're happy with it, I'll go ahead and mount our bottom. And you're gonna want have someone hold the arm here so it's not extending, but this is gonna allow us to have space here for our driller to actually get in place. Now with your extra set of hands you're gonna have them hold that in place, then you may need to extend the arm out, you don't want it to go completely out, it can get a little bit tricky, but we're gonna go ahead, and get these mounted up. So now that we have this mounted up, to kind of keep this in place, I'm gonna go ahead and put a nice big zip tie around here, and that's gonna hold it from moving around too much. So now we have our one side mounted up, we're gonna go ahead and do the other side as well, and that's gonna make it a lot easier to get a roller in place and mount it up, rather than having to hold that. It's gonna be pretty easy to get in place because we have a little bit of movement here, we'll be able to slide that roller on. So I'm gonna go ahead, get our other side in, and then we'll come back from there. So now at this point you're gonna want to have a few extra sets of hands as well as some ladders, and you're gonna wanna be moving the ladders as we feed this on. So we're gonna be taking this bead just make sure it's in the proper orientation. Now I've gone ahead and removed the one paper ring, and that's just gonna kind of hold it together but this first one, I can start feeding it, and as I move along we can take that off. So since this is pride out, we can go ahead and take our bead, and just slowly feed it in to our channel here. As far as your proper orientation, you're gonna want this going over the top here, so just make sure you have that set up before you lift it in place. So I'm just gonna kind of move this along, and then we have our next set of hands to help us carry this. So here on our shaft it's gonna be keyed and slide in, and there's gonna be a hole, and you're gonna wanna have your square bit to number two, your hardware ready, that way we can tighten this in place. Now the side without the motor is actually able to free spin, as long as we get this one aligned, it's gonna be easy to get this all lined up. We'll just get this aligned here, and that hole should only go one way. Now once we're aligned here, we're gonna go ahead, take that number two square bit bolt, and we're just gonna get this in place, and then we'll tighten that down, just thread that in there. And then with this side in, we can go to our other side, and get that hardware in as well. Now in this side, this one's gonna free spin as I mentioned earlier, so go ahead, get that align with the hole, and then we'll get our hardware in place. Before we put our screws in place into our channel, we're gonna want to extend this out, and that way we can kind of iron out any of the roll, and make sure that it's nice and taut. So we're gonna wanna power this out, and so we're gonna make our electrical connection. So you can see where I've cut off our old plug, I'm gonna go ahead and use some heat shrink butt connectors here to make our connections here, we'll power it up, and that way we can draw our awning out. So I've gone ahead and use heat shrink butt connectors to make our connection, and with the heat gun, this'll cinch this up, so since this lives outside the RV, and it can be exposed to water, or any of the elements, this is a good way to just make sure that it's nice and sealed up, and it's gonna protect this connection long term. Now pretty straight forward here, it's just gonna be your red wire to red wire, and your white to white. We're gonna go ahead, get our zip ties taken down, and we'll be able to extend this out. What I'm looking for is some wrinkling, and basically that's gonna show us that it's not completely even, so when it rolls back up, it's gonna create creases that long term will kind of stay permanent if they are stored that way. So we're gonna try to iron that out. Now while we have this extended out, it's a good time to get our wiring buttoned up. So I'm gonna just take some electrical tape, and this is gonna be for LED lights, so if you wanna later integrate those in, you could tie into this, but running electrical tape over here is gonna keep it nice, and just added protection on top of those heat stream butt connectors. And then we can put those plastic channels in, to prevent any damage to the wires. Once you get everything centered up, and you're happy with that length, and it's nice and taut, roll it in a few times back and forth, and that's gonna also help center it up. And then you can go ahead, take yourself tapping screw, run that through the extrusion rail into the the bead, and that's gonna really hold it in. Now you're gonna wanna keep it about an inch away from the outside edge, and then once you have that in place, all that's left to do is enjoy the new shade. And that was a look and installation of the Solera XL Powered Awning on a 2021 Keystone Raptor..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Installed by:
David F
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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