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Peak Performance Digital Wireless Backup Camera Installation - 2013 Ford Explorer

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How to Install the Peak Performance Digital Wireless Backup Camera on a 2013 Ford Explorer

Today we're going to be taking a look at the Peak Performance Digital Wireless Back-Up Camera, part number PKC0RB. This camera's going to be great for backing up to trailers. It's going to give you an idea of where you are and how much distance you have until you get to it. Backup camera's also going to be great for assisting you in parking. Now this camera's also great for seeing pedestrians or other objects when you're backing up. If you find it distracting when you're backing up, you can turn it off with this button right here.

Now with the six infrared LEDs on the camera, it's going to give you excellent night vision in the low light situations so you're still going to be able to see pedestrians or any other objects when you're backing up. Now, the camera is adjustable. It does tilt down as well as tilting up so it's going to be able to adjust to anything you need depending on where you have it mounted. This is a water resistant camera, has a built-in transmitter to make the installation a little easier and also features an adjustable angle to suit your needs. Now, the monitor is a full color 3.5" LCD monitor. Now this monitor is a wireless monitor so there's no need to run a wire from the camera to the monitor itself.

All you need is a 12 Volt power supply. Here at the top corner we have our signal meter. The monitor and the transmitter can be up to 200 meters apart so you don't have to worry about any breaking in signal. So this is everything that comes with our Back-Up Camera kit. We have our camera with the built-in transmitter, we have our monitor, as well as any necessary hardware and a mount for the monitor inside your cab. Now we'll go ahead and show you how to get this installed.

To begin our installation we're going to need to remove our license plate. So this is how our camera's going to mount, but we're going to move to the inside to see where our wire's going to come out from. With our hatch open, we're going to need to remove this panel and you can remove it using a trim panel tool or a flathead screwdriver. Now here in the handle you'll see two different textures. This top piece comes off which is going to give you access to the hardware underneath. There's going to be two 8mm bolts that we're going to have to remove.

Not towards the top of the hatch here by the glass, you'll see there's two sections. Now this top portion overlaps the bottom so we're going to need to remove the top panel first. And you're just going to go around working your way and you'll feel the clips with a little bit of tension behind them and you're just going to pull downward and away. Now with the top section removed, we can go ahead and remove the lower portion. Gently pulling away from the vehicle and releasing the clips. Now with our panel removed, we can see this is about the general vicinity of where the wire's going to be coming from and we can see there's no obstructions. Now that we know there's nothing back here, we're going to go back to the outside and drill a hole for our wire to come through. There's going to be a panel right here, right above in the center of our license plate, and we're going to drill just a little bit to the left-hand side of it because that's where the wire comes with our camera. Now, we're going to start with the smaller drill bit to start our pilot hole. You're going to drill through a first layer of plastic and then you're going to hit metal behind it. Now with our pilot hole drilled we're going to come back with a half inch drill bit and drill through the plastic and metal again. Now, I do want to mention, once we have our pilot hole drilled and we came back with our half inch, we can remove this plastic panel which makes it a little bit easier to get the half inch hole drill through the metal. Simply take a trim panel tool or flathead screwdriver and pop the panel out. You can see our pilot hole is much easier to access and we have a little more control over our drill. Now that we have our holes drilled, we can put our camera in place. The camera's going to go on the outside of the license plate. Now for installation purposes, we're only going to put in one side, that way we can run our wire through our plastic piece and up through the hole and then we can put everything back together. Once we got our wire most of the way through, we can install our included plastic grommet, simply slip it around the wire, feed it up to the hole and push it in place. Now we can pull the rest of our wire through and install our trim piece. We can go ahead and put our license plate and the other side of the camera bracket on. So this is where our wire came out on the inside and I'm actually going to route the wire back on the inside and I'm going to come out over here on the driver's side and I'm actually going to follow this wire and zip tie it to that. With the wire secure we're going to move on and we're going to pull this grommet out on both ends and on the bottom here we're going to cut a slit because it is sealed, just big enough so we can get the wire through. Now I'm going to take some airline tubing that I had laying around to push this through so that we can use it as a fish wire to pull our wires through. Just going to push it through, guiding it through the grommet. We're going to push it up into our channel and we're going to pull it out and attach our wires. I'm just going to put some tape on my airline tubing and my wire to make sure they stay together, and then start pulling it through. Now with our wire through our grommet, I'm going to take it and I'm going to push it through the hole that the grommet's going to go to and it's going to come out and come down, right underneath the head liner you'll see our wire poking out right there. We can pull the excess through. You can go ahead and push your grommets back in place and secure everything up. Now as you can see we have our wire pulled out from underneath our head liner. Now we don't have quite enough wire to get to our reverse lights in this application, but you can find extra wire on our website. We sell it by the foot and I'm using about four feet of red and black wire. So to connect our wires, we're going to be using a butt connector for each one, which is also available on our website. Simply going to trim the excess bare wire off, insert it into the butt connector, crimp it down, insert the other strip in of our red wire into the other side. You crimp that side down as well. Nice little tug to make sure it's got a secure connection and we can do the same thing for the black wire. Nice pull to make sure everything's secure. With our wire from underneath our head liner here, we're ready to start routing our wire. In order to get this panel loose we're going to have to come down here and loosen this panel and also come to the bottom here and take the threshold off. Now remove this panel, again, either a trim panel tool or a flathead screwdriver. Simply pop the clips out, working your way across the panel. Then if you come in on the inside, you'll grab the bottom section of this and pull out away from it and it should release it. We can set this aside somewhere safe. We're going to need to come to our cargo tie-down points, here and here, and these simply just unscrew. We can simply just pull the panel gently away which will give us access to our upper panel, again, taking a screwdriver or trim panel tool, working your way across the panel, releasing the clips. Now with all our trim panels loose, we don't need to fully remove the lower or the upper one, just enough to have room for our wire to hide down beneath it. Pull our head liner down a little bit, move our panel out of the way, minding the location of the clips, not to get the wires stuck in there, and just putting our wire, tucking it in behind the panel. For now we can just leave our wire right here. Our next step is going to be removing the taillight and we're going to need to pop our these two plastic clips, one on top and one on the bottom. We're going to have two 8mm bolts right behind those plastic covers. Now to remove the headlight, just give it a good wiggle. There is a clip back here so it is going to take a little bit of pull, but, like I said, if you just wiggle it back and forth a little bit, it'll pop right off. With an extra set of hands, we're going to have someone get in the car, turn the key on and put it in reverse so we can tell which one of our lights is our reverse light. So we can see this one is our reverse light here, which means on the back of taillight, this is going to be our reverse light socket. So, we're going to remove our reverse light socket and we're going to remove the bulb for safekeeping so it doesn't get damaged. We're going to go ahead and remove all the sockets out of the taillight housing. That way it's a little easier for us to work with and we can put the housing aside. We're going to be pulling this grommet out so we can feed our wire through. Now just like before, I'm going to use some airline tubing that I had laying around and I'm going to take the end and I'm going to put it through the hole so it comes in on the interior. It's going to pop out right back here. We're just going to pull some of this excess out and put a little bit of tape to secure our wire to our airline tube so when we start pulling it it won't let go. Now we can start pulling our wires through, making sure it's not going to get caught on anything. So now that we have our wire through, we can go ahead and disconnect our airline tube and we can start looking at our reverse socket. Now, again, with an extra set of hands, I'm going to test each wire to see which one's the power wire and which one's the ground. So with an extra set of hands, if I can have them put it in reverse . And it's telling me that that's the power wire so we know the blue wire is our power wire and our black wire is our ground. Now as you can see, we need to get our wires through the grommet so we're just going to make a small cut right here so our wires will fit in. Now that we have a slit in our grommet here, I'm going to be using some Loctite silicone to seal it up. You can find that on our website using part number LT37467. Just going to put a small little bead of silicone so we don't have to worry about any moisture coming in. The kit comes with two quick splice connectors, but since it's on the outside and as you can see a lot of dirt, debris and possibly moisture will get in there, we're going to be using some heat shrink butt connectors instead. You can pick those up on our website as well. To begin the process, we're going to snip both the blue and the black wire completely off and then we're going to strip the ends of both wires. Now we're going to strip the other end of both wires as well. Now we can take both our black wires and we're going to twist them together just like so and we're going to take our butt connector and insert it into one end of the butt connector and crimp it down. Next we can take our light socket that we cut off and, again, with the black wire insert it into the other end of the butt connector and crimp it down. Now as I mentioned before, these are heat shrink butt connectors and I'm just going to be using a lighter, whatever you have around that's going to be a heat source. But keep in mind not to get it too hot and scorch the wires. Next we can take our red and blue wire and do the same process that we did with our ground. Twist the wires together, insert them into the butt connector and crimp it down. Now we can take the other end of our blue wire, put it in the other end of the butt connector, crimp it down and now we can heat it up, seal everything up for us. Now with all the wires all connected, we can go ahead and put our lights back into our taillight housing. Now we can just tuck our wires back out of the way and reinstall our taillight. Finally, put these caps back in place. Now we're ready to start putting our panels back on. When you're putting these panels back on, just make sure to pull the weatherstripping out so that it's on top of the panels. Now for a little bit of added protection where the wire's coming through the metal, we're going to put a little more silicone so we don't have to worry about chafing. Now with everything all tight and buttoned up, we're going to go ahead and tighten down our camera bracket and our license plate and then we'll move to the inside and set up our monitor. So here on the inside of our Explorer, we're going to start going over our monitor. Now to keep in mind the orientation of the monitor, the buttons are going to be on the right-hand side and the cord for the power is going to be on the left. Now the way this mounts is on the back here with the provided mount, simply slide it in, tighten this knob down and that's going to secure the mount to the monitor. Now here we have adjustments here to accommodate any angle. You want to mount it to your windshield, simply tighten this knob to lock it into place. Loosen it so you can make your adjustment. We're going to be putting this right in the center of the windshield, right about here. We're going to get the angle we want, tighten down our knob. Now here on the bottom you're going to flip this tab, it'll firmly secure it to your windshield. This is going to be our power cord for our monitor. This end's going to be going into the monitor and this is going to be going into a cigarette lighter or a 12 Volt outlet. Now the cord's six feet long so you do have a few options of how and where you're going to route this. We're going to plug this end into the monitor. Now we can take our plug, plug it into our auxiliary port and we're ready to go. As you can see by the blue light, we have power to our monitor, but even if you push the power button the camera's not going to come on until we put it in reverse. Now when we put it in reverse, the monitor will come on. That'll finish up the look at the Peak Performance Digital Wireless Back-Up Camera, part number PKC0RB on our 2013 Ford Explorer.