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Pollak Pigtail Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Pollak Pigtail Wiring Harness on a 2011 Ford F-150

Today on this 2011 Ford F150 we're going to review and install the 4' pigtail wiring harness for Pollak replacement 7-pole sockets, part number PK11998. This is a good part to use in replacement of a damaged connector up here. As you can see here, this original connector here has doctored up to make it survive a day but it definitely needs to be replaced. This part is designed to hard wire into existing wire harness from the tow package and come up to the connector. It has a US car connector on the end. This part number also comes with some butt connectors to make your connections and also a ground loop, as well. Now we'll go ahead and show you how we installed the wring harness. Let's go ahead and remove a part of our existing harness so we can get to good wires that aren't damaged.

I'm just going to go ahead and get the sheath opened here, I'm going to go ahead and loosen up our wires, and we'll go ahead and cut our wires. I'm going to just cut them in half, one at a time. You'll notice I've got my ground wire separate, which is my white wire. By the way, this orange one is the power wire. Depending on the inaudible 00:01:14 tow package, it may have the fuse already installed, or it may not.

As long as we keep this one separate when we're cutting, we won't create a short. I'm going to go ahead and remove the rest of our old wiring harness and get it out of the way. At this point, we can go ahead and strip the wires back, maybe about 1/4" or so. Then you can use the supplied butt connector and crimp it in place. However, since this sits outside towards the bottom, this is going to get abused in the weather. It's a good idea to go ahead and replace these guys with something a little bit more durable.

We'll be using a Deka heat shrink butt connector for 12 and 10 gauge wires, part number DW05745-10. They work just like any other butt connector, but when we apply heat they'll shrink up and seal themselves up. It lasts a lot longer in this under of a truck environment. Some of these wires are going to be on the thinner side, so you can strip them back, hold them over, and they'll work just fine. If you want to change these out, that way you don't have to buy two different sizes of butt connectors. Depending on your application you may or may not need all this length.

With our installation we don't really need the whole 4'. I'm actually going to just cut it in half and work with it from there. Once again, we've got our wires ready to go and we'll hook up to our butt connectors. This will not be an exact color for color match up. We will start up matching up the ones we can first. We're going to match up our white to our white. If for some reason we didn't want to use this white ground wire that came from the factory, we could use the ring terminal that comes with the kit and then attach it to the frame. We've got good wire here, so we'll just go ahead and use that. Next up will be blue to blue. Next we'll do brown to brown. Next up will be green to green. Now I'll start working with the colors that don't match up. This yellow wire here goes to our reverse light. That's going to go to our grey with the black stripe. Now, our red will go to our all yellow wire here. Finally, our black will go to orange. I'm going to use the heat gun to go ahead and shrink all of the butt connectors to seal them up. You actually can use a lighter or a barbecue lighter, but this works much better and is less likely to damage the butt connector. Now they're all sealed up and ready to go. We'll take a few moments and wrap them up with some electrical tape, just to bundle up all the wires. If our original connector, right here, was in good shape, we could just simply plug it into the back of it. Since this one has seen much better days, we're actually going to replace it with part number HM40975, from Hopkins. This is a direct factory replacement. This will fit into the original bracket that's been installed on our F150. If you just don't need that or you need to start over from scratch, you can also use the accompanying bracket that comes with the kit and the hardware that comes with it, as well. Before putting everything together, it's a good idea to apply some dielectric grease to help protect it, to keep it from corroding. We'll be using part number 11755, from LubriMatic. It doesn't take much, just a light film. We'll route our wire harness through the bracket and we'll plug in out new connector. We'll line up the two pieces together, push together till it clicks, and we'll push in this grey locking tab. Now we'll take this whole assembly and push it into place. This one is going to be a tight fit because the bracket is not in its original shape. As long as you get the clips from behind to snap into place, you'll be good to go. We'll take a few moments to push our wires up and out of the way. Make sure they're safe, bundled up, and secure. We'll attach them with some zip ties. Here's what it looks like installed. Now let's test it out. First, we'll go ahead and try out the running lights circuit. Left turn signal, right turn signal, brake signal, and we'll double check our electric brake signal. We'll go ahead and put in in reverse and make sure that comes on as well. That'll finish it for the Pollak 4' pigtail wiring harness, part number PK11998, on this 2011 Ford F150.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B

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