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ProPride 3P Weight Distribution Hitch with Sway Control Installation - 2010 Forest River Flagstaff C

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How to Install the ProPride 3P Weight Distribution Hitch with Sway Control on a 2010 Forest River F


Hi there, Flagstaff owners. Today, on your 2010 Flagstaff Super Lite, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install ProPride's 3P weight distribution system. A weight distribution system will take the weight that's sagging down the back of your vehicle and help to transfer some of that to the front axle. And that'll restore lost handling, ride height, and braking performance. 'Cause when you're sagged down real heavy in the back, your front tires are no longer at the same geometry 'cause your suspension is different. The weight's not being loaded onto the front axle the way it was before, and your brakes there in the front are doing the primary braking source on your vehicle.

So if you're not loaded up, you're gonna lose some of your stopping distance or you're gonna gain additional stopping distance. It'll take longer for you to stop. And also, you're gonna be pointed up towards the sky, which at nighttime we'll bring your headlights off the road and make it more difficult to see. A weight distribution system will allow us to bring that back up right, get the weight properly transferred under the front axle, get our tires in the proper geometry to increase our handling, and get our braking back into closer to what it would be under its normal riding conditions and get your headlights back down on the road. And then, the ProPride of course does have the anti-sway and other properties in it, so you're gonna get even more benefits than a traditional weight distribution system.

The ProPride is going to be a bigger, more involved, heavier duty weight distribution system than what your traditional ones that you're used to are. It does still use bars, but the mechanism here at the front is completely different than what you would see on any other weight distribution system. With our arms here, we're gonna get the same weight distribution characteristics that we would from other weight distribution systems, but a lot of other weight distribution systems also try to combat sway and they'll do it in different ways, whether they're using friction or some kind of pressure to do that. A lot of 'em use friction on the bars to help to prevent that. Our ProPride here just completely re-engineers the front of your trailer to eliminate sway as best as any system possibly could.

With your traditional trailer, you're hooked up at a single point here. When you're pulling your truck, it's just this one point. So if you got any crosswinds or stuff, your trailer can pivot on this one point and sway can occur. That could happen from hitting obstructions in the road, heavy crosswinds, or even maybe performing an evasive maneuver. Our ProPride here re-engineers this, so it's no longer a single point of movement here at the front.

The large mechanisms that you see here are now what's pulling your trailer. So now, we have two points. So if something tries to, like a heavy crosswind or a maneuver or something would cause our trailer to move to one direction, the entire trailer can move over and pivot on this whole setup here. And since you're pulling from two points, it's not just one point anywhere where you're pulling and it can sway, you've got two points on each side to help center out and make sure that you're pulling your vehicle straight. With the ProPride setup here, it really does make a huge difference if you have any type of crosswind that hits your trailer rather than the traditional sway of the backend kinda going out, maybe coming back and forth. The way this mechanism works, it's not quite just a pivot point either, even though it's got two. It kinda works in a half moon-type shape so it can turn, but it can also just kind of slightly shift itself to the side, side to side. And that's what allows it to be able to move over a little bit on those crosswinds and straighten itself right back out. So this is gonna be completely different as far as feel from a lot of those other weight distribution systems. It's gonna be a little bit quieter, but it's also going to just be significantly better for sway control. Now, with the ProPride, since we do re-engineer the front here with this big mechanism, this actually stays on your trailer all the time. This whole setup does. And you're gonna hook up differently using the stinger that comes in your kit. So you'll have to back up and back it into the slot here. And then, it'll be held in place here with these latches. So it is gonna take a little bit getting used to. It's different than hooking up your traditional trailer. You do have to get it lined up with your hitch here and get that stinger at the appropriate angle for it to slide in. It's one of those things that you just gotta get used to. The first couple times you do it, you're probably gonna be really disliking the setup because it takes a minute to understand how to get it to maneuver the way you want it to maneuver so you can get it to line up. But once you kinda figure it out and you you've driven it a few times, you're gonna be hooking up just like that, just like a normal trailer. It just takes a little while to get used to. One of the things to help you when you're getting these set up or backing up and getting it hooked in is your jacks back here. 'Cause the angle of the hitch head is very important for getting hooked up properly. If your angle is not matching your stinger, you can use the jacks here at the back to raise and lower your arms, and that'll change the tilt of the front head here. So you can use these to kinda help you get that lined up. That's kinda one of the biggest differences is you hook up completely different. But that does offer a level of security as well. A lot of trailers out there that use just traditional ball, anybody with a ball and a draw bar could hook up and, you know, just snag the trailer. There's a lot of locking options out there for those. But with the ProPride here, you gotta have this very specific device to be able to hook into it. Otherwise, if you wanna be able to hook up traditionally, you have to disassemble the system, and it's a pretty lengthy process that I doubt any would-be thieves would be up to the task for. I think we're gonna go ahead and show you how to unhook and hook up. So we're gonna go ahead and remove or reduce the pressure here on our arms. Just gonna lower these down. Kinda go back and forth a little. That one's nice and free. That's also nice and free. Make sure that there's no pressure on it. We've got our jack down. Make sure that, that is all the way down. And what I usually look for is kind of that free-floating point right here. If you look at the coupler on your ProPride, you see the point where only that moves You know you're at the kind of the free-floating center point when you just see that moving up and down on the ball but not this piece moving with it. Go ahead and unhook the rest of our components. All right. And now, we can unhook here. Now, before we unhook, you always wanna make sure you've got wheel chocks and stuff on your trailer. We've already got it chocked up so we're ready to roll. Make sure you chock up, and then we can unhook here. So pull your pins out. You'll use your tool. We're just gonna pull it towards us here, and that'll pop that off of there. Same thing on the other side. And we should be able to just kinda pull away now in our truck. All right, so you saw we we're able to just pull right out of there. That was nice and easy. The hookup part is the little bit more challenging part. One of the big things is you gotta make sure you have the correct approach angle so you go straight in or correct tilt angle. And since we didn't adjust our jacks, we shouldn't need to change the tilt much here. But that's how you would adjust your tilt is with those arms. Lower it down to tilt it up. Raise 'em up to tilt it down. And then, if you just happen to be parked at a strange spot where you can't come straight in, it does have pivot. We talked about how it pivots. Well, let's take a look at that pivot. See how it's got that kinda moon-shaped pivot to it But yeah, if you come in at a strange angle or something, you can kinda rotate your hitch to help adjust for that angle. I mean, ideally, you're gonna be coming in straight on it but you do have a little bit of option there. So we're gonna go ahead and hook back up now. Get it right into the stinger there. And then, we'll then check back in. So I'm gonna hop back in the truck, use my camera to line it up. If I feel like I'm off a little bit, I'll probably hop out of the truck and you might see me pushing this back and forth just a little bit or maybe even touching the jacks just a little bit to get it to that sweet spot. Our stinger's pretty much all the way in there. There is a little bit it could go a little further. I'm pretty sure at this point, though, we could probably get it with our latches here and draw it in the rest of the way. But it's all the way in there. It's not quite flush. You'll feel a little lip. But we're still I would say out maybe a quarter inch of where it should be. But I think we can just grab our tool here. Yeah, look at that. Sucked it right up in there. All right. And we are re-latched. And don't forget to put your lynch pins in before you take off. So we're gonna begin our installation here on our vehicle. We need to take some measurements, and we're gonna be using those later when setting up the ProPride. So first, go ahead and get measurements of your wheel well height all the way around the vehicle. So we're going from the ground to the wheel well. 42 1/2 here for the left rear. We're gonna measure the other side as well. And then, about 42 1/4 for the front. And again, we're gonna measure the other side and just verify that those are the same. We also wanna measure here at the back of our vehicle from the ground to the top of our coupler. So we're right at about 20 inches. We're gonna record that as well. Level our trailer and take the measurements from the ground to the bottom of the frame. And we're measuring to the bottom of the I beam here on both the front and the rear to make sure that we have it perfectly level. And we're right at about 16 3/4 here at the front. We've already leveled it out, but I'm gonna double-check the back where we should be right at about 16 3/4 there as well. And now, we need to measure our ball height with our trailer level. So from the ground to the top where our ball sits there, we're right at about 23 inches. So now, we're gonna set up our hitch end here. So the way this is gonna work to determine whether it's gonna be in the rise or drop is gonna be based on your measurements. So the first thing you need to do is take the measurement of your ball on your trailer, whatever you had there, and subtract 5 1/2 inches. That's gonna be where the head assembly is gonna hook up to the stinger here. So that sits below your ball just a little bit. So that's gonna be your new hookup point, not your ball anymore. So that's 5 1/2 inches down from whatever your ball was. So we had 23 inches there, 5 1/2 down puts us at 17 1/2. We now need to take that measurement and subtract it from or find the difference between that and our hitch here. So we had 20 inches here on our vehicle, 17 1/2, the difference between those is gonna be 2 1/2 inches. Now, if your vehicle side here is four or more higher, when what that measurement you just took there is if that difference is higher, ours is only 2 1/2, but if it's four or more and it's taller here on the vehicle side, you'd put it in the drop position. But since ours is only 2 1/2, it's less than four, and we're still higher here, we're gonna be installing it in the rise position like this. So this is just gonna slide in there now. We're gonna use the included pin and clip. And then, we'll take our tilt pin and get that put into place. Your tilt pin here, which is this little guy with a little ball, kinda half ball in the end. You'll have some washers in your kit. You're gonna get more than two, but we're gonna start with just two. Two's probably all you're gonna need, but you do have more in case we do need to change that adjustment later on down the road. Just start with two for now. That'll just slide in there just like that. Now, we need to get our stinger set up, and we need our stinger to be at the same height as our hitch box. So we know over there our hitch box is 5 1/2 inches below the ball, which for us is gonna be 17 1/2 inches. So now, we need to measure from the top of the shank here, which we know is gonna be 20 inches to the top of our plate here, and that we wanna take that difference, that 2 1/2-inch difference and put that there. So that way, this stinger's gonna be as the same as our hitch box at 17 1/2 for us. So we're gonna go ahead and grab a bolt. We're just gonna set it in there first. Line it up with our holes. And we're just gonna eyeball it first. This looks like a pretty close spot. Now, if you look at the holes here on the side, you've got four holes on the side. You've got a slotted one at the top and a slotted one at the bottom. And then in the middle, we've got two round holes. You will want to use the round hole that is the lower hole. So if you have your hitch in the drop position, you still wanna use whatever is the lower hole in that instance. And it's the same thing with that pin that we inserted in the top here. There's two holes at the top and bottom. So if you have it in the drop position, you still wanna use the top hole for this pin. So we've got that slid through there now. What we wanna do now is just take quick measurement, make sure this is gonna be the right height 'cause we're just kinda guessing here real quick. And we'll raise it up and down as necessary. So we've got our height there. Let's see. Let's see if we can't get a good view. All right. So we are pretty close to 2 1/2 inches right there. We're a little bit closer to two, but I think if we go down another notch, it'll probably put us too low. So we're gonna stay right where we're at there. And now, we can go ahead and insert our other hardware. We can go ahead and finish this one off. Just grab your lock washer and your nut and just loosely thread that on there. Now that we've got that hardware on there, we're gonna take our other two bolts. Each one of these is gonna get a washer. We'll lift up on our stinger a little, slide our bolt through the bottom slotted hole, and we're also gonna put one through the top slotted hole. On the other side, those are gonna get washers and nuts as well. And all we wanna do is just push this up until it's against that pin. And I'm just gonna use my leg to do it. So we're pushing that up. And then, we're just snugging these bolts down just a little bit just to help hold it in this position. But we don't wanna finalize tightening it yet, just in case we need to make some minor adjustments. And I'll probably grab a wrench just to snug it up a little bit more just so that way, it stays pressed up against our pin there. So we're just gonna, again, just snugging it up just so it can't move. We don't want it super tight. And that's fine. Just hitting it just enough to hold it against that pin. So we're over here on our trailer now. I did go ahead and pull the propane cover off. I recommend just getting that out of the way. It's usually in the way of getting stuff set up, and you can make your adjustments as necessary to put that back on later. We marked the center of our ball both directions. And now, we take some measurements from the center of our ball back on the frame. So we need to measure 26 inches back on each side. So I made my mark there at 20. This is where our jack is gonna go. Now, you do get a little bit of leeway with this. You can install it at that 26 mark as the ideal position, but you do have an inch and a half either direction. So I took an inch and a half and I made a mark there. And another inch and a half the other direction from 26, plus or minus, and made my mark there. We're gonna do that on both sides and then use that to determine if we need to move components. Now, our mark here is gonna be the front edge of where our jack goes. So we should be just able to clear our tanks here with where we're at. We also need to measure for our yoke. So we might as well take that measurement now. And that measurement is gonna be from the same point here at the front to 22 inches. And we get a half-inch leeway plus or minus on our yoke. So I went ahead and made those marks there in the frame as well. And of course, you wanna do both sides. Once you've got your measurements, we can start installing. We're gonna start with our jack here. So just grab your jack. This is the bottom that should fit over your frame. This component here where it hooks up will be to the outside. So it just slides on top of our frame assembly there. And then, we're gonna slide it up into position. And we're gonna position ours to the furthest mark. So there was our 26. We get an inch and a half leeway, and we want our front edge to be right there. That way, we'll clear our tanks. Now, yours is gonna vary at home. You're gonna potentially have different tank and battery and jack layout, stuff like that, so you might need to position yours slightly different. As long as you're within that margin, though, then you're okay. So we know ours is good there. We can now secure it with our U bolts. We have two U bolts per side. It'll slide up around the frame. Check inside the frame too. You just wanna make sure you don't pinch any wiring or anything like that when you're installing these. After it slides through, you'll take two washers, one on each. We'll also take two lock washers. Put one on each. And put nuts on top of those. And we're gonna do this with the other set of holes here on our jack as well. So this was the front set. Now, we'll put on the rear set. And it's gonna use the same hardware as the front set. And after we get these on here, we can go ahead and snug it down. Now, we do not want to over-tighten these. You'll have a torque spec in your instructions, and it tells you not to exceed. So just make sure you don't exceed that. They really don't need to be all that tight. They just need to be tight enough to hold it in place. So once you get 'em all started on there, we're gonna use an 11/16 socket to run 'em down. You wanna run 'em down evenly. So I ran that one down till it touched. Then, I stop and I move to the next one. Run it down until it touches. And then, we are gonna go back and torque 'em. The main thing is that you get 'em all even, and you do not exceed the maximum torque spec outlined in your instructions. And with these, we are still gonna kinda go back and forth to make sure we draw 'em down evenly. Next, we're gonna install our yoke. We've got our measurement there. Now, a lot of trailers, you're likely gonna need to modify your tank mounting mechanism in some way. This one has a riser under it, so we shouldn't need to do anything with it. But a lot of 'em, this is just gonna sit right on top of the frame. What I've done in the past since your tanks, they do have kind of a lip at the bottom that rises 'em up so they're not sitting on the bottom of the tank, I've actually just drilled holes straight through the tank mounting plate and just dropped my U bolt straight down through it. Because again, this bottom of the tank has a little kind of a round foot on there. And as long as you center that around the U bolt and it sits flat, you're gonna be okay. But we have a gap so we're gonna be fine. So our U bolts can slide right in there over the frame, so we can line it up up with the the mark that we've got there. We'll put it right at 22 since we've got plenty of clearance and it's not gonna be an issue. I'm gonna go ahead and drop the other one in on the other side as well so that we can lift up our yoke and get it attached. So now, we're gonna lift our yoke up. The slot there is for our U bolts to pass through. So we do have to do both sides. And again, you don't wanna pinch any wiring or anything, so we wanna make sure we put this above our wiring so it sits flat against the bottom of the frame. There we go. Then, you can take your plates that come in your kit. Those are gonna slide over your U bolt. After you get it slid on there, we're gonna put a lock washer and a nut on it. Try and get it on there a little bit further. There we go. And then, that'll now hold it up there, so it'll be easier to install your other pieces. So just kinda take out most of the play. So we're now back here out on our vehicle. We're gonna use the vehicle to get our hitch set up in the proper alignment with our trailer. So we're gonna go ahead and slide the hitch here onto the stinger, the big open square end here. We'll slide in up on it. This guy is really heavy, so be prepared for it. It is in no means light. All right, get that slid on there. There we go until it's all the way up on there. Now, we're gonna lock it in place. That's what the end's here for. If you screw it out, it makes it longer, which is going to increase the tightness of the clamping mechanisms here. Or if you screw it in, that'll make it easier. It'll decrease the tightness. So we're just gonna see where we're at here. That seems like it's probably pretty good. We shouldn't be able to just slide it on there by hand all the way. This is the tool that comes included with the kit. It's just a breaker bar with a 15/16 socket. You should use this to insert this piece, so you should have to be able to push it to lock it in. I can't quite get it. So if I can't get it, you just take this thing, we're gonna screw it in. I'm probably just gonna do half a turn there. That's probably close enough 'cause it felt like it was about ready to go. All right. And there it is. We'll then take our pin, slide it down in there to lock it in. We're then gonna hook up the other side the same way. All right, next we backed our vehicle up to our trailer, trying to do it as straight as you possibly can. And then, I put some all-purpose grease on the ball 'cause we wanna have that lubricated to protect it. We can now lower our trailer down onto the ball, but we do not want to put weight of our trailer on it yet. We just wanna get it down to where we can couple it. Go ahead and pull that back and lower it down. All right, we are latched in there. Go ahead and put our pin back in. And that's where we wanna be. Again, we don't wanna put the weight of our trailer on it just yet. Just get it to where it's all hooked up like this. Next, we're gonna install our arms. And they'll slide up here into the bottom. There's Zerk fittings there so you can grease your bars to maintain 'em. That's what the fittings are right there. To get our bars in there, we have to take out this adapter collar here. So there's a single bolt there that we're gonna remove. We're gonna use a 9/16 socket and wrench to do so. And it's just loose. That'll then slide out of there. This is where our bar's gonna slide into, and it's gonna get held into place with one of these little discs that comes in your kit. So before we slide that up there, we're gonna go ahead and grease up the end of our shaft. So to insert these pieces, first, you're gonna wanna lubricate the bar. So again, we're just using some all-purpose grease. Just smear that over the end of your shaft there. And then, this piece is going to insert now into the adapter sleeve that we took off. And after you slide that on there, you'll notice that there's a cutout in it right there. You can see it's got the cutout. That's where our little disc is gonna go. And it should insert in there. And that's what holds this guy together is that little disc there. So now, we can take our component. Line it up. Oh, that slid out of there. It's kinda hard to hold everything together while you're doing this but you should be able to. There we go. Once you get it slid up in there, you're just gonna resecure it with the fastener that you removed. All right, and our arm is now held in there and it rotates. We'll install the one on the other side the same way. We can then hook up the other side of our arm once we've got it in there. It's nice, secure, held into place, and it rotates. It'll hook it to the end of our jack here. Now, if you look at your jack, you can see it's got the head of the bolts on one side and then the nuts all on the other side. All the nuts need to be facing outward away from the frame, so we have proper clearance, and that includes this bottom one. So you can go ahead and take this off. It might come pre-installed on there to where you can't take it off by hand. We just want the bottom nut. We'll use a 3/4-inch socket and wrench to take it off. All right. So we've got our nut and our washer. And then behind that, you actually have two more washers, but they're shaped like this. They've got a tapered side in the middle and a flat side on the edge. The flat sides are going to be the outsides. So this one's already installed on there on the outside like that. We'll then take our bar here, and you're probably gonna have to lower down your jack here if it's on there to be able to hook these up. To lower this, you can use a 3/4-inch socket. And you do not wanna use impacts on this. So I'm barely pressing the button to make sure it doesn't impact. A drill would be the better option here. You have to hold this as well. All right. So we've got it plenty far down. So now, we can go ahead and hook 'em up. We're gonna take our bolt that's gonna slide through. And then, we're gonna take one of the washers with the bigger flat side facing towards the bolt head, and we can line up our attachment here, making sure that the nuts are facing outward. Slide that through our attachment. And on the other side, we're gonna get the other washer with the flat side facing outward. Push through there and secure with our washer and nylon locking nut. We'll then hook up the other side the same way. And if you want, you can take up some of the slack a little bit. So next, we're gonna be installing the yoke assembly. To get to that, though, we have to take this cover off right here. You'll have two bolts in the front. We're gonna use a 3/4-inch wrench or socket to remove the cover bolts here. All right, and there's another bolt on the other side. So we're gonna make sure we take that one out also. And our cover will then lift off of there. Our yoke assembly here is going to install through these holes. So now, we're gonna take our arms here. And we're just gonna kinda slide this around our components. There we go. So now, we're gonna take the large bolts on the end of these loose. Okay, you'll have a nut and a lock washer. Those are gonna go on the inside here. Here on the outside, you've got a flat washer, your center yoke arm, and then another flat washer. Inside of here, you'll see that you have a bronze bushing and a steel bushing. Those pieces need to stay in there like that. After you get this side loose, we're also gonna take the hardware loose on the other side 'cause you have to get the bolt out of the way on the other side before you can lift it up. Okay, so we just took all the pieces off for the other side. We're gonna make sure we have that bushing in there when we insert that piece. But we can go ahead and lift it up now. Might have to slide your bolt out some. And then, get it to slide through your hitch box there. We can then place our lock washer and nut on the inside and snug them down. And we're just gonna get it started, making sure that we do have it inserted on there without it being cross-threaded. That's good enough. We'll come back with our power tools to take care of that. Head over to the other side, and we'll get that one inserted over there. Okay, so once you got those inserted, next we're gonna lift up the tail end of our yoke here. You can see it's got this like a round mechanism there or round little end that kinda pokes out with a flat plate on it. That will line up in between this bracket that we inserted there. So we're gonna lift that up. And this bolt here is what's gonna hold it up in between that. The roller that you see here is gonna go in between the mechanism. So you'll have to lift up. Then, insert your bolt. And then, before you push your bolt all the way through, you need to put that little roller in there between the two pieces. Continue inserting the bolt through, and then we can put our nylon lock nut on the other side. So we can go ahead and snug this down. We're gonna use our 3/4-inch socket and wrench to do so. We just need to snug it up till we've gotten rid of the play so the bolt can't move around. And that's fine. That's all we need. You still want the middle roller to be able to roll. We need to center our cross brace here on the yoke, so get it centered side to side, and then also centered front to back on the yoke. Get roughly about the same amount of distance on each side. Then, we can go ahead and snug up these U bolts. We're gonna use our 11/16 socket to do so. Now, we'll need to adjust the tilt here for our yoke. So we're gonna go ahead and snug up these larger bolts first. So we're gonna use a 1 1/8-inch wrench and socket to snug these down. So next, we're adjusting here. You'll wanna adjust the section of the yoke here to where it's parallel with the frame and to where it has a one to two-inch gap. So let's just see where we're at there. Looks like we can get a little bit more gap. So just knock it down a little bit more. That looks pretty parallel with the frame. And we've got a little over an inch, about an inch and a quarter there. So that's fine. That's within our range that we can be in. So now, we'll snug these down with our 3/4-inch socket and wrench. And don't forget these ones too. These ones also need to get snugged up. We also wanna torque our U bolts to the specification outlined in our instructions. When tightening these, you do wanna make sure you go back and forth and tighten it down evenly. We can now install our front cover back in place. It'll just sit back on there, and we'll reinstall our fasteners that we had removed. We can now go back and torque the shank bolts here. We're gonna use a 15/16 socket and wrench. I'm gonna kinda butt it up against the head of the bolt there to hold it 'cause this is a very high torque that we have to go through here. All right, now that we've got everything installed, we will have to adjust our arms with our jacks and stuff to get it set up. But before we do that, we wanna hook up and make sure we got our safety cables, electrical, and everything like that all installed. Now, one of the things you might notice is after you install the ProPride, it's pretty big component here and our safety cables no longer reach. That's pretty common for that to happen. Now, these don't come included in your kit, but you can purchase a ProPride extension kit here at etrailer. It'll come with extensions for your safety chains, for your wiring, and as well for your safety cable if you do need that as well. So we're gonna start with our chains here and get those set up. So we'll take our connections here. They have these little cotter pins in 'em. Just kinda bend that straight, and we can pull the pin out of there. Go ahead and slide the chain through one end on the far end. We'll then slide our pin back through, reinsert our pin, our cotter pin, and we'll bend that as well. So now that we've got that side hooked up, we're gonna remove the other side now. So you get your chain through there to where it can freely move like that. We'll put our pin in there, push our cotter pin over, then we'll remove the other one on the other side here. You have to straighten it out. Slide that out of there, remove our pin. We'll then take our chain, run it through our attachment point on our hitch. You wanna see how long it needs to be. So we're probably gonna need pretty much every bit of it, it looks like there. So we'll then take this piece, and we're gonna slide it back onto itself and connect it up. We know we're gonna need basically all the chain link that we've got here. That'll line up inside of there. Our pin will go through. And on the other side, our cotter pin will go through. Push that over to keep it in place. And now, we can hook up our safety chain. Now, we do wanna cross our chain in hooking 'em up. So the one that I installed here on the passenger side, I'm gonna take the chain that's on the driver side of our vehicle. We're gonna bring that over and connect it in. We'll now do the same thing on the other side to get our other chain installed. Safety chains installed, but our wiring's gonna be too short. So we'll take the extension here. Simply plugs into the back. And then, it has another seven-way in there that you can plug your trailer into. We can go ahead and start doing our adjustment. Now, where we've got it set up now, our jack's on the ground, but we basically have almost no weight on the trailer. We kinda just got it sitting on there. In most cases, you're gonna wanna just lift this up until the jack slightly lifts off the ground or until you hit your desired height. You may not want that much, but that's typically gonna get you set up. 'Cause you know once that jack lifts off, you should be sitting nice and level with your trailer and your truck since everything's already sitting kinda nice and level right now. We're gonna adjust these evenly, so we are gonna kinda jump back and forth between the two as we go up with them. The head here is a 3/4-inch in size. We got a 3/4-inch socket here. Make sure you pull your pin out of there, and then we can raise it up. You can use hand tools or you can use power tools. You would wanna make sure you're not using an impact driving device, though. You wanna have like a drill, something that's gonna be smooth. And we'll bring that side up a little. All right, and we just came off the ground there. So what we wanna do now is just make sure that we've got the same pressure on each side. So we've got our tape measure over there so we can measure the length of arm that's hanging off the bottom here. So we're looking at just under 4 1/2 inches on this side. So we'll check that side and make sure that it's even. And yeah, we ended up being right at about the same on each side. So we've got it right off the ground. That's right about where we wanna be. So to repeat this easily next time, I'd recommend putting a mark here. So that way, when you jack it up, you know you wanna go up until it reaches your mark. And a paint stick like this is gonna wear off. I'd recommend something a little more permanent that you can repeatedly use. All right, we went ahead and brought our jack up. Don't forget to insert your pins on each side after you've made your adjustment. At this point, though, you would wanna just double-check your truck and your trailer. Make sure your truck is sitting really close to level where it was before. It's not uncommon that the back of your truck is gonna be down just a little bit from the unloaded ride height. The main thing is our front measurement. We want that to be pretty much as close to the unloaded ride height as possible. But we don't want the front to be lower than what it was. 'Cause that means we're putting pressure on the front and tipping it down. We wanna just try and level it out. So we're gonna go ahead and recheck our measurements on our truck and our trailer, just see where we're at. And if we need to snug it up just a little bit, we can do that there. All right, we rechecked our measurements. We we're at about 42 1/2 before. We're at about 41 1/2 now. So we're about an inch lower in the back than we were. So that's not too bad. Let's check our front. And our front's right at about 32 1/4, maybe 32 3/8, just a hair above that. So we're really close to where we wanna be. This is probably fine where we're at. If we wanted to, we could probably put another maybe one full turn on each jack to give it just a hair more in the back and bring our front just a hair down to get us right in on the even measurement. And the next thing, we wanna check our frame, see that we're still level. And in the back, we measured about 16 1/4. In the front here, we're about 17 1/4. So we're about an inch higher here in the front than the rear. But that's actually probably pretty good. I would prefer it to be just a hair higher in the front and only an inch difference between such a long trailer. It's gonna feel like it's level, and so we should be good to go here as well. And that completes our installation of ProPride's 3P weight distribution system on our 2010 Flagstaff Super Lite..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Michael B
Installed by:
Michael B

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