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Rear View Safety Backup Camera System Installation - 2005 Ford Escape

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How to Install the Rear View Safety Backup Camera System on a 2005 Ford Escape

Today in our 2005 Ford Escape, we'll be installing the rearview safety backup camera system with a mirror monitor and license plate mounted camera. Part #RVS-778718N. We'll turn our key on. The green LED comes on on our mirror, we know we have power. Place our vehicle in reverse and our backup camera comes on with our grid distance warning shown on the display. You can see we have a very clear and large display on our backup camera to show us what's going on in our mirror. We can adjust the brightness on our mirror by pressing the power button here quickly, releasing it to get the desired level that we want. Leave it at 50 because it's right in the middle. If we want to turn the mirror off, we can just hold down the power button and it shuts off.

Hold it back down again, it comes back on. Replace it back in park, we see our image display on the mirror goes away and we have a standard rearview mirror behind us. We place it back in reverse again, our display pops up on the mirror and we have a good idea of what's going on directly behind us. This is perfect if a small child was to be behind us in our driveway and we went to back up. We wouldn't be able to see them in the mirror, but we'd be able to see them on the backup camera. Our mirror even comes with a remote to change various settings. We hit our menu button, we can adjust our brightness, our contrast, our color, night brightness.

You'll want to refer to your instruction manual for all the settings that you can adjust. We're going to back out of our bay now, so you can see what this looks like while you're actually driving. You can see that it does give you a helpful imagine that looks behind you. We're going to back up to a trailer and you can see how helpful the backup camera is for aligning with the trailer. It makes it a lot easier to get your hitch in line with the coupler on the trailer. The rearview safety backup camera with mirror display is an ideal solution if you want to install a backup camera on your vehicle, and don't want to have a second monitor on your dash; you want to utilize an existing location on your vehicle. This works perfectly for that.

It'll allow you to see what's going on behind you while you're backing up a lot easier, so you don't run into any objects. Unlike a lot of rearview mirror system cameras out there, it's a direct replacement for your factory mirror and it looks just like a factory mirror. It's not something that clips on to it; replaces it directly. It's a very clean and professional looking installation once you have it installed. As you can see if someone walks behind your vehicle when you're in a parking lot, you'll be able to see them a lot easier. We'll start our installation at the back of our vehicle. We're working with the license plate right now. We'll remove it.

Depending on your application, your license plate screws may vary; if they've been replaced or if they're the factory original ones. Ours, I believe, are factory originals. They're eight millimeter. You could also use a flat head screwdriver on them. Take our plate off and we'll keep our screws loose for now, and we'll open our hatch on up. With our hatch open, on our hatch panel here you'll find four phillips screws that hold it in place. We'll remove all four of these screws now. With those four screws removed we can grab our hatch panel and pull down on it. We'll close the door slightly, we'll open the glass portion of the hatch now. We need to have the glass portion open in order to raise the panel up all the way. Unhook it from the door, with it unhooked we can close the glass now, open the hatch all the way, take the panel out and set it aside. Right in this general area right here, we'll be drilling a hole through our hatch. There's wires behind it, so we want to get these out of the way so we don't accidentally drill through the wires. We'll unclip our lock actuator here, and then unclip the wires from the door with a trim handle tool. We'll just pry the wires on the backside of lock actuator like that. We'll have plenty of clearance and they won't be in the way now. Right in the middle here, we'll just draw a line straight down and drill a small pilot hole for our wire to pass through once we enlarge the hole. You can see where our pilot hole came through. We'll use a step bit to enlarge our hole. With that enlarged we'll see if our wire will pass all the way through it. We found a grommet that our wires pass through, that's snaps into the hole nice and easily. We'll push our connector through for our camera. Open the hatch on up, pull the wire on through. We'll stick our camera over our top license plate screws, get our screws started there real quick, and then we'll tighten them down. We'd normally have our plate on above the bracket, but we need to have room to get our silicon in there to seal our hole up. Before we do our silicon, we want to put our wires back in place, plug back in our lock actuator, and we'll route our cable away from any moving parts; such as our latch release. Run it behind that and we'll zip tie the wire up to this wiring harness right here. We'll take our silicon that we have and go inside the grommet hole here and put a nice solid dab in there, and we'll push it in. This will keep any moisture from entering inside our car. We have this available on our website if you need to purchase some. While we're letting our silicon adhesive dry in the back, we can go inside the interior and remove our factory rearview mirror. Just use a flathead screwdriver and we'll release the lock tab underneath. Just twist gently and then wiggle it off the tab and the windshield. We'll take our new mirror slide it onto the tab, and then we'll use the included allen key to tighten down the set screw to secure it to the windshield. We don't need to go overly tight on this, just enough to snug it down where it won't be loose. Right there is good. We'll take our cable that comes from our mirror and our extension cable, we'll line the two arrows up together and just push it until it stops. To help our connector here from ever coming unplugged, we'll wrap it up in some electrical tape here. This will just help protect it, making sure we have a nice secure connection; even though we're on the inside of the vehicle it's still a nice thing to do. Before we slide our mirror on up, we'll want to attach our piece here to hide the wire on the glass. Come up and push it into the back like so. We'll slide on the other piece that extends into our headliner and slide it all the way down. Tuck our wire inside and slide the mirror onto our tab on the windshield and we'll tighten down the set screw with the provided allen key. You don't need to go overly tight on this, just enough to hold the mirror in place so you can't pull it off by hand. We'll tuck our wire into our headliner. Now that we have our wire routed about toward the end of our headliner to where our A-pillar post is, we need to drop down our A-pillar post to run the wire behind it. Pop out these covers here and there's a couple bolts behind there; remove those bolts. It's a seven millimeter bolt. Remove both of these and pull down our weather stripping here a bit, and we'll be able to grab onto our A-pillar and remove completely. We'll just tuck our wire through the headliner the rest of the way now, and we'll secure it in place to this wire running down. We'll drop our wire and connectors on down through the gap in the dash. We'll open our glove box, pull it in on the sides, and it'll fold down like so. You can see the end of our connectors here, pull them down the rest of the way. We'll secure it to this existing wire with a couple zip ties now. On the passenger side of our center consol, we have this door here for a fuse box. We'll open that. We'll take our connectors here, and drop them through our dash. Slide them behind our center consol. We'll pull their wires out through that door area. We're using this fuse box to supply power for our connector off the accessory wire and we can ground it to this metal self tapping screw right here too. We'll open our glove box back up again, slide it on down, ane we'll make sure our wires are all secure. You can use a zip tie here and secure them to this bundle of wire already behind our dash. That will keep it from falling down. We'll close our glove box back up and we can reinstall our pillar panel. Place our grab handle back on, and reinstall our weather stripping. We'll take our extension cable here and we'll plug it into the AV-2 input side of our harness here, making sure our connectors line up properly and we'll tighten down the lock ring. We'll take our green wire here, strip off some more of the insulation, take a butt connector, we have these butt connectors available on our website if you need to purchase one, insert it over the wire, crimp it down, take some wire that we have laying around . You'll probably need about twenty feet or so of wire in order to this installation properly. We have wire available on our website to purchase as well. Strip off some of that insulation there, connect it to that wire with a butt connector, crimp it down too, make sure our wires are nice and secure together which they are, and we'll take the heat gun and heat shrink this connector. This wire that we connected, this yellow wire that went to our green wire, will go to our actual backup lamp to be our trigger for the camera. I'm going to tape it to our extension cable every few inches or so, so we can route it to the back of the vehicle at the same time as the extension cable itself. In order to run our two wires to the back of the vehicle, we need to create a path in order to do that. we're going to run it along the firewall and along our door channels here. In order to do that though, we need to pop off these door channels first. We have a plastic push panel fastener here towards the front; pop it out. Another one towards the back right next to the post between our two doors, the front and rear doors. With those two pins popped out, our panel lifts easily. We'll do the same for the back seat. Popped open this cover, so lift up on the panel and it'll slide off this clip here and we'll pull back this weather stripping here on our back door. We have a gap to run our wires between this panel, down and then along the floor to the front of the vehicle. The end of our extension cable, we'll stick back through the hole in the fuse box, and we'll pull it on out the front. We get to our yellow wire that we're running to the back, pull that through as well. The rest here, we'll tuck down inside the fuse box, making sure we leave our black and red wire on out for making our connections with. We'll tuck this AV-1 input on in which is an additional input for a secondary camera we're not using here today. We'll leave the black and red wires out to make our final connections to the power. Pop off this kick panel here, it's got another one of those clips. We'll take our wire and we'll route it behind the carpet, and we'll route this to the back of the vehicle and we'll secure it along this wiring harness as we go. We'll peel back this panel here and slide our cable behind it, and we'll reach it from the backside now. Here's the connector, pull all of our slack on through. This is the panel that's in between the front and back doors. The end of our cable we'll tape to a pull wire, we're using a piece of air line we had laying around. We'll use this to fish the wire through our panel towards the back of the vehicle. We'll open our jack storage compartment door here, where we can see down inside the panel. We'll feed our pull wire through that gap and see it came out the jack compartment door. Pull it in a little bit more until we get resistance and we'll go back to the rear door area, pull the panel out a little bit, slide the connector on through, and we'll pull it on out the back of the vehicle. We'll remove our pull wire and we'll pull the rest of the wire on through. Now that we have our connector and our wire that are connected to our reverse light ran back, we'll remove our passenger side taillight, using two phillips screws. Grab the taillight, pull it out towards us. There's three bulbs; green's reverse, the tan one's your turn signal and then your black one is your brake light and taillight bulb. We'll unclip the connectors, by pushing down the tab and pulling the connector off, pulling the bulb out too. Set this aside. Wiring harness is clipped to the body, we'll unclip it. This grommet behind our taillight, we'll push it into our vehicle to get a little bit more slack in the wires. For our bundle of wire that goes to our taillights here, we'll separate it from the electrical tape, so we have access to all the wires a little bit more. This black and red wire is our positive side of our reverse light, we'll tap into this wire using a wire tap; we have these available on our website. Slide it in there and then we'll slide in the yellow wire that we brought in from up front to the other side of it and we want to squeeze these two together with a pair of pliers. This will give us our reverse signal input. We'll close this back on over it. The end of a connector here will slide through our grommet hole and we'll pull this all the way through. We need to cut a slit in on grommet for our wire to pass through. We'll push our grommet back aligning our wire through that slit that we made. With that back in place we'll seal it up with some silicon right there, so we don't get any moisture inside the vehicle. We'll take our taillight assembly; reinstall our light bulbs, run our wire behind the taillight assembly and push back in place, and re-screw it back in. Our wire will run along the side of our weather strip here, up right to this umbilical where our wire go inside the hatch for power. I'll zip tie it to that. We have our glass open on our hatch now. We'll go around this electrical catcher there for the defroster and then around the shock that holds up the hatch glass. Pop loose this plastic cover here for the lift support, and we'll run the wire next to it and pop back in place. This will help support it and keep it out of our window track. We'll run our wire along the weather stripping for our hatch glass. We will secure to this wiring harness up here just like so. We'll connect our two cables, secure the lock on them and we'll bundle up the rest of the slack in our wire with a couple of zip ties. We'll stick this inside our hatch panel here to hide it just like that. So we don't have to listen to this wire rattle around, we'll zip tie it to our hatch; this will hold it in place. We'll reinstall our back hatch panel, slide it in position where it needs to go, making sure our wire's behind it. We'll secure it with the four screws that we removed earlier. We'll pop back in our cover for our jack storage area. With that secured we can close our hatch back up and begin reassembling the other interior panels. Our black wire here is our ground wire. We'll strip off some more of the insulation from it, we'll fold it back in half on itself, and we'll attach a ring terminal to it that we have; we have these available on our website if you need to purchase one. We'll crimp it on down. We'll attach that ground to the screw right here; it goes to metal. That will be a good ground for us, but in order to get in there we're going to pull this panel back a bit. There's two seven millimeter screws that hold it in place. That gives us a little bit more room to work. We'll remove the seven millimeter screw that we're using as a ground. Place our ground wire over the bolt and reinstall the screw. Our red wire is our ignition source power. We're going to install this with a fuse tap right here in our fuse box. The wire will go in here, this will go in a ignition fuse and it will have it's own separate fuse to supply power to our backup camera. We'll still be able to have it fuse in place for the accessory we're tapping into. Strip back some of this wire here, insert it into the butt connector for fuse tap. If you want to purchase one of these fuse taps, we have them available on our website; that's part #F2526. Crimp that down, and we'll wrap that in some electrical tape. We've already determined that this ten amp fuse here is a fuse that only has power going to it when the ignition is on and that's the fuse we want to use. We'll pull it out, we'll insert that fuse into the bottom slot in our fuse tap, that's the fuse that will supply power to the accessory that's already in the fuse box, and we'll take another ten amp fuse that's included with our fuse tap; put it in the top one and that will supply power to our backup camera. We'll reinstall this into our fuse box, in this slot we removed the first fuse from. Just like that. We'll tuck our wires back inside there and we can reinstall our cover panel here. Before we go down the road we want to make sure we reinstall our license plate. Our silicon sealant had adequate enough time to dry. We'll put our license plate over the bracket. That completes our installation of the rearview safety backup camera system mirror monitor license plate mounted camera, part #RVS-778718N, on our 2005 Ford Escape.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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