bing tracking image

Redarc Tow-Pro Elite Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

content loading

Customers compare RED44FR to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite Trailer Brake Controller on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Hi there Jeep owners, today in your 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Redarc's Tow-Pro Elite proportional brake controller. And it is blue, which means that we're currently in proportioning mode. And that's your normal mode. When in proportioning mode, when you apply your brakes, the module will detect the inertia and it will use your setting here to appropriately apply the brakes to help match your vehicle. So that way you get nice, smooth stopping performance. And this is what you're going to want to use most of the time.

The other modes that this one has available is the user control mode. To get there, it will want to switch it to the zero position fully counter-clockwise press in on our brake pedal and then double tap the switch. Now it's green indicating we're in the user control mode. And user control mode, it's similar to a time delay brake controller because when we have it set to whatever we have set here at once, we hit the pedal it's going to roll that amount on to whatever we have it set to. This is really nice for you off-road guys.

If you're in those muddy conditions you can choose how much braking power you want to match the slipperiness of your conditions and ensure that those brakes are going to apply because in proportioning mode, you hit the brakes and maybe your Jeep starts to slide a little. It might not detect that inertia. So it might not really apply the brakes very aggressively in the back. So this way you can get more control over those brakes in those wet, slippery, muddy conditions. But again, if you're out on the road, you're really going to want to be in this normal proportioning system.

When you're out on pavement, in most cases it's going to give you the best and smoothest brake application. Regardless of which mode you're in, whether it's the proportional or the user control, you can press in on the knob and that will apply our brakes. And you can see it turn to red as it does that, the darker the red, the more power you're applying to the brakes. We'll go ahead and go down here to about half power and you can see it's kind of a pink color. And as we go down, it becomes more towards the color of whatever mode we're in.

This is useful, if you're driving and your trailer starts to sway you can press on your brakes real quick to apply them. And that'll cause your trailer to want to pull away from you and then actually straightens it back out. So it doesn't have that sway anymore. And that can be really useful just for quick moments just to help straighten things out. The best part about this brake controller though is the small footprint it takes up in your vehicle. The only thing that you really have to see is this small knob here and it doesn't take up very much space. Your traditional brake controllers are pretty large and in a Jeep, it's pretty hard to find a good spot especially if you're a taller gentleman, I'm nearly six and a half feet tall and with the seat even all the way back, my knee wants to bump those brake controllers all the time. But with this tucked up, right, nice here in our dash, there's no chance that it's ever going to really be in our way. We can easily see it here. And the module that controls everything can be mounted behind our dash in any orientation. And that's why we have a calibration process that we go through. So it can learn its position. Now that we've gone over some of the features of our brake controller, why don't you follow along with us and we'll show you how to get it installed. One of the things you'll want to ensure that you have before getting a brake controller is a fully functioning seven-way at the back of your vehicle. If you don't have a seven-way, you can get a ModuLite kit here at etrailer.com to get a working four-way and then you can get kit ETBC7, which can convert that four-way into a fully functional seven-way. We're going to be using kit ETBC7 here. Our customer already had a four-way, so let's get her done. We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle by getting our seven-way mounting bracket connected. We're going to use the included self-tapping screws to put it right here in the bottom of the bumper beam here at the back. Just hold up your bracket in the position that you want to put it in. I'm going to try to match this one up with the existing four-pole bracket that's already on here. And once you've got it into position, you will use a quarter inch socket to run down the included self-tapping screw. And then just run the self-tapper right through the opening under the bottom of the bumper beam. We can now take our seven-way and we're going to slide all the wiring through the opening and we're just going to line it up here and we'll use the included bolts, washers and nuts to get it secured. So we're just going to go ahead and take the bolts first, slide it through our seven-way and through one of the slotted holes in the bracket. Now on the opposite side, we're going to follow that up. Washer, lock washer and nut. We'll then repeat that for the three remaining holes. Once we've got it mounted up there, we can go ahead and snug it down. In most cases, you can just use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten these down, the nut on the back, usually catches and you should just keep a little bit of pressure at my finger and that one tightened up just fine. But I'm just going to repeat that for the remaining ones. We can now take our existing four-pole connector that we have. We're going to plug it in to the four-pole connector coming out of the wiring off the back of our seven-way here. You can tell these are going to match up. So these two just plug together and then we can start attaching the rest of our wires. We're going to be using the white wire, the black wire and the blue wire. The yellow wire is for your reverse light circuit. We're not going to be connecting that one today. To ensure your connectors don't come apart, you can wrap a zip tie around them. As we know you Jeepers out there are going to be going off road and doing all kinds of crazy stuff that causes vibrations. So by running one of these through here, we can ensure that it doesn't vibrate when we're going down the road and come disconnected. And we can trim off our excess. And we're good to go. Now we've got it mounted up. We can take one of these screws back out. And what we're going to do is we're just going to take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal, slide ourselves Tapper through the ring terminal. And then we're just going to reattach this to get our ground. We've now got the blue and the black wire separated out. Cause we still need to attach those the rest of our wires here. We're just going to zip tie to the factory wiring here and try to keep it up out of the way. I want to try to keep it as far away from this exhaust as possible, so that's if I we're to zip tie that to this factory wiring. We'll now take our wires here, the black and the blue. We're going to trim off the ends here because these are just regular butt connectors. And we're going to upgrade those to heat shrink butt connectors, since these live outside the vehicle. That'll keep out any moisture to ensure we have a long lasting connection. You can get heat shrink butt connectors here at etrailer.com, if you want to follow along with us, I highly recommend it to ensure you don't have to make any repairs few years down the road. So we're just going to strip both of these back now. And then on each one of these, we're going to crimp on our heat shrink butt connectors. Once we've got both of these crimped on, you'll receive a gray jacketed wire in your kit and it's going to be fairly long and we're going to be using that to attach to these. I've got my gray wire right here and I've already taken some of the sheeting off to separate the two wires out and strip them back just like we did with these wires because these are going to connect to our blue and our black here. So now we're going to connect the black wire to the black wire and we're going to hit the white wire to the blue wire. That's going to slide these in, crimp them down, and then do the same thing with the other one here. And we'll grab our heat guns so we can shrink them down. We're then just going to zip tie that up to our wiring right there. And now we're going to route the rest of this gray sheets wire up towards the front into our engine compartment. So I've gone ahead and routed it. I'll show you the path I took to get it there. We just followed our wiring here. Then we went up above our rear suspension. We come out the other side of our rear suspension here zip tying it to factory wiring along the way. From there, we stay up above our frame just kind of staying on top of that frame. Our customer already had aftermarket wiring routed through the frame here. So we just zip tied it to his aftermarket wiring but you do also have the option to poke it in the frame just like he did here and run it down your frame. Well, we just stay on top of the frame, zip tying it to that factory wiring along the way as we go. We come right out on top of the frame here to the outside, right about where our driver's door is. Our customer added some lights here. So he's zip tied it to that factory wiring. Once we get up here to the front body mount, we cross back inside and from here, we speed it up. You can reach your arm right up in here. And here's where we came up here. This is right where we went down. You can easily reach your hand in there to pull it back up. I did, when I pulled it up, I made sure to feed it back behind all of our wiring here to keep it up towards our firewall because our steering shaft is right there. And we don't want our wiring to get wrapped around that steering shaft down there. So I've even kind of tucked it right behind the booster just a little bit to ensure it stays out of the way. From here, though, we can take our wiring and route it across to the other side. Our customer's got plenty of aftermarket components on here with some zip ties. So we're just going to reuse his existing zip ties to get this spread across. You do get zip ties in your kit. So you can just zip tie it to this factory wiring across if there's not already preexisting ones there. We're going to run our wiring over to the battery on this side where we're going to add some circuit breakers and then connect it to the battery. We're going to get our circuit breakers mounted up. I've already mounted one right there. I'm going to be mounting this one right next to it. Now you want to choose a spot where these aren't going to ground out on anything here. Our customers got a lot of aftermarket modifications already on his Jeep. So a lot of the real estate's already taken up. So we're gonna be mounting it on this bar that he's got placed above his battery here. Typically in this area, you've got a lot more room to work with and you can mount these on to any metal paneling, wherever you need to just run it in with self-tappers. A lot of times right next to the battery here on the side works very well. But again, all this stuff here is taking up all that space. So we know kind of where we want to put it. So I'm just gonna move that guy out of the way now. Let me go ahead and get one of the self-tappers started. Now we got that one started. We can go ahead and pull it back out. You can just hold the circuit breaker up there while you do this but due to the limited space that we've got here, I often find it easier to just go ahead and get one started. I also like to leave the silver post at the top 'cause that's our auxiliary post. The bronze post is our battery post. It's going to be going directly to our battery positive. So we'll keep that one lower. Just put those back in now running it through our circuit breaker. And then we're just going to snug that down. We've got it snugged down. We can run a self-tapper into the other hole over there. So we can take our wiring, now we've got our circuit breakers mounted. We're going to be trimming some of the excess off but before we do that, we're going to route the wiring right to the circuit breakers and yours isn't going to pull it quite like this. This is aftermarket that our customers got here above his batteries. We're just going to poke that through the hole there so we can come out right next to our circuit breakers. Now, we've got it routed over here. This is going to be hooking to our circuit breakers on one of the wires. So we're just going to get the length that we need to ensure that we can make those connections. And then we're going to trim off our excess. The rest of the excess, we are going to be using to complete the installation on our brake controller. So you want to make sure you save that. Now we've got that. We're gonna go ahead and strip these back and strip the wires, just like we did the back. So now that we've cut them, I've gone ahead and strip back that wire. And I stripped it back all the way to this point because our white wire here is going to be routed inside but we want to make sure we had enough wire to make that travel in there. And our black wire is going to stay over there on that side to connect to our circuit breaker to provide power for the auxiliary circuit on our seven-way. So we've already stripped it back here. We're going to be taking one of the small ring terminals that come in our kit. We're just going to crimp it right onto our black wire. And we're just going to crimp that down. And then we're going to attach it to the silver post on our circuit breaker. We're going to be attaching the black wire to the 40 amp circuit breaker. They are labeled on the side. So we're just going to slide that guy on there and then reattach the nut. We can wait to go ahead and fully tighten it down later because we're going to be waiting to hook up the actual power side of our circuit breakers until we've made the rest of our connections so we don't accidentally cause any shorts. We don't need to use the rest of the wire that we had cut off. And each of these wires are going to be used for their own individual purposes and routed a little bit differently. So it's easiest if we just strip all the sheeting off and get two separate wires. So we'll have our excess black and our excess white when we're done. We've separated out the two and I've taken the black wire and routed it across just like we did with our other one. This one's going to hook to this circuit breaker and this can either be the 20 or the 30 amp that's going to power your brake controller. If you've got a very large trailer with multiple axles you may want to consider using the thirties to ensure you've got enough power for all of your brakes. Whichever one you choose, the other one won't be used, first going to go ahead and crimp on a ring terminal, just like we did with the other circuit breaker here. And we're going to attach this to the silver post on the remaining one there. We're not going to get this wire routed inside. You'll have a grounded right here at the top on the driver's side. Go ahead and pull the grommet out a little bit just to make it, to see, to get our pull wire fed through. Now, your pull wire can be a lot different things needs to be somewhat flexible, but also somewhat rigid so that way you can guide it the way you need it to. We're using airline tubing here but if you're at home, a metal coat hanger works really well for this. So now that we've got our pull wire fed down to the grounded, we're going to take our wires that we need to route inside. We're just going to line them up with our pull wire here and just tape it to it with some electrical tape. We can then go inside and we'll grab our pull wire and pull these wires in. So it can be pretty difficult to route these wires in without something pulling them in because they're just too flexible. They just bundle up when you're trying to feed them down. I have to cover the wires completely. So that way they don't get caught on anything while I'm pulling them in. I did also put the grommet here, pulled it out a little bit. Cause sometimes it gets caught on the ground that when you're passing it through. So if you can get it through the grommet It makes it much easier to pull it the rest of the way when you're on the inside. And here's our pull wire here, it came right down the side. We're just going to keep kind of tugging those wires until you get them through. Now, we've got our wires routed in. We need to get our brake controller mounted up. There's a couple of panels. We're going to take off to get everything mounted and wired. The side panel here, I recommend using a trim panel tool. She can work it in there on the edge and just kind of slide it up and it'll pop out these tabs. And then we can set this guy aside and we also want to remove this panel right here and this guy just pulls out. So we're just going to gently pull on it like that. And it kind of tips down and then we can pull it towards us to get it out of the way. There's also a cover right here. We're going to take this out. There's two bolts that we're going to use a 10 millimeter to get this out of the way. Just kind of lifts up slightly to get it off those tabs. And then that'll get out of your way as well. We're going to Mount our control unit to the plate that we had removed. And this is what it looks like. We took out those two bolts and here's the tabs where it slides up. There's plenty of room right on the backside of this plate for us to mount this and for this component to fit back in. So all I did was hold the plate up there and I just made some marks with a little scribe just to scratch the paint. And I drove through some holes and used the included zip ties to just zip tie it right to this panel. So we've got our module now mounted to this piece. I'm not going to put it back in just yet because we need to get our switch, found it up. Now our switch, we're going to mount to the panel that's right in front of this metal panel, the one that we just pulled off. we're going to be putting it right here just to the right side of our steering wheel. I've gone ahead and drilled out the holes. And I use the small plastic pieces, our template. And I actually use the backside because if we look on the vehicle there's an opening spot just to the outside of this tab. So I just sat the little ring in here. I put the small hole at the top and then just use this as a template to draw out the holes. We used a three eight drill bit for the main hole and a one eight drill bit for the small pilot hole. Once you've got both of those drilled out, this piece does have a small little indention there and that'll actually poke into the small hole just like that. And then we can take our switch here, which has an LED that's going to poke into our small hole as well. So here on the backside, we're just going to slide it through lining up that hole, come around here to the front. Now that we know we've got it lined up in the hole and then we're going to take our nut here, push it in and thread it on. That is a little bit tight of a fit here when threading it. So the easiest way I found to do this is to just use a socket to tighten it by hand. We want to make sure we double check ourselves to ensure that that LED stays in its slot. And we don't need to go crazy tightening this thing down. We're just tighten it by hand with this socket here until it gets nice and snug. And we've got it in there now. So we can take our knob at this point and we're going to first take the knob and just barely press it on there so we can turn the knob here to the full counter-clockwise position. And that is going to be our zero position. So we're going to put the zero at the top and just click it in place. And we want to check if we got it on there that we can click the button and make sure that the knobs not contacting our panel when we're clicking that button. So it has free click. If it's touching your panel, you might need to snug that nut down just a little bit more. It was like, we're good and we can turn it. And we see if we go all the way clockwise. we have ten at the top all the way counter clockwise, we've got our zero at the top. We've now got our harness here. And this is going to plug into the module. That's going to go in this location. So we're just going to kind of get it right here. Most of our wires are going to bring out down the side here so we can make our connections. But one of the ones we need right now is our red wire. This is our brake signal wire. We can bring this one up because we need to tap this into our brake switch wire. So that way our brake controller knows when we're pressing the brake. We're going to take the red wire. We're gonna go ahead and trim off the pre-stripped portion. We won't need that because we're going to be using a quick splice. The quick splice does come in your kit this little blue guy right here, and our quick splice we're going to open it up. And the way this works is you can see you've got a single slot on that side. And two slots on this side, the double slotted side is going to slip over the wire we want to tap into. This is going to be our white wire with the beige, or it's kind of like a brownish color, that's striped onto that. So now we've got their wire poked on there, we can then take our red wire. We're going to feed that up in here and we're going to poke the red wire in the other opening on the one side that does have a single opening. And now we can take our pair of pliers And we're going to squeeze our quick splice right on the metal tab there. And it's very important when you're squeezing this that you keep your wires inside the slots and then squeeze it down and that's going to connect to the two together. You can then just fold over the cover and click it in place to lock it in. Now we'll turn our attention to the wires down here. So to ensure that we've got the amount of length that we need to make our connections I do want to go ahead and get this plugged in and we're going to put this panel back up so we can ensure that we're not making our wires too short. And then we can't get it plugged in. So we're just going to grab our module here it mounts in this position. So we're going to take our connector and click it in place. Or then just going to take our module here. And our panel set it back into place, those tabs slide back down on there. And then we can reinstall the bolts. I've gone ahead and taken the white wire now. And we just fed it through the bottom side of this panel. We're going to crimp on one of the larger ring terminals that comes included with our kit. And since this is our ground wire, we're going to just attach it right here to where one of our bolt holes went in place. So we're just going to grab that factory bolt, slide it through our ring terminal and then thread it right back in. Might as well, throw it in the other side while we're here. And then we can tighten both of these down. The remaining two wires on our harness, the black and the blue wire are going to connect to the two wires that we routed inside the black and the white. You'll connect the black to the black and you'll connect the white to the blue. We'll use the included butt connectors for this. They don't need to be heat shrinked this time since it's inside the vehicle all we have left now is just connect our switch to our control unit. This is the cable we'll connect them with. It's just an ethernet-style cable. One end's going to have a 90-degree and the other end is going to be straight. It doesn't matter which end goes aware. We're going to be using the 90 degree in here on our switch just to ensure that we've got clearance behind our panel, when we poke it back in. And then when we're pushing this panel back and we're going to route this to our module and just plug it into the ethernet port on it. So we can just reach back here for our big connector that we plugged in on this side of the module, the Ethernet's going to be on the other side. So you can see here we're just going to reach behind the panel and plug it in. We can now reinstall our panel just make sure you got your wire all the way up in there. And it just clicks back into place. And we can reinstall this one as well. It also just clicks right back into place. So you should have quite a bit of white wire left since we used most of the black wire on the inside. So we're going to use that last little bite wire here to make a couple of jumper leads to go from our circuit breakers to our battery positive. So we're going to go ahead and hook it up to our circuit breakers first before we connect it to the battery. I did make one wire slightly longer than the other just to compensate for the distance of our circuit breakers here. So we're just going to remove these and just like we did with the black wires here, and we slid them on, we're going to do that with our white ones here. So we're just going to remove that, we're gonna slide our ring terminal right on to our circuit breaker. We're going to re-install the nut. And then we're going to go ahead and do the same thing over here on our other circuit breaker. At this point now it's a good idea to tighten them down before we hook it to our battery. So we're just going to grab our 10 millimeter socket here and just snug these nuts down. You don't need to go crazy with them. We just need to keep it from our wires coming loose. The other end of our wires here is going to hook to our battery positive. And our customers got a pretty nice setup here with his aftermarket components. But if we follow his positive lead, it goes here to the isolator and then it's directly connected right over here to this point. And this is where you can attach a bunch of accessories to. So we're gonna go ahead and take advantage of this and use this open screw right here to attach ours to. But if you don't have this, you can just connect it directly to that positively on your battery. We'll then just re-install our screw to tighten it back down. At this point, we're ready to test everything out. So everything's completed now before your system is going to work properly you need to do a calibration and really you don't have to do much with the calibration. You just have to drive the vehicle and you'll need to start and stop. And every time you stop the proportioning valve, detects the direction in which the vehicle's moving and stopping, so it can properly calibrate its orientation. Cause you can Mount the module pretty much anywhere you want. So when we do this, it's going to learn how it needs to react. You can see on our switch here that it's flashing between green and blue, and that means it needs to be calibrated. As this light flashes, it will increase its speed. As it flashes the closer it gets to complete calibration. And then it'll will eventually go to a solid color once it's finished. So we're just going to go ahead and start and stop here until we get that completed. It can take up to about 20 good start and stop conditions for this to occur. So we're just going to come over here and we're just going to do some start and some stops. You want to get up a little bit of good speed and then hit the brake pretty good. So that way it actually feels that inertia and we're just going to continue doing this. So it took us maybe about a dozen stops to get it to calibrate here. And you can see that it is now a solid color and that completes our installation of Redarc's Tow-Pro Elite proportional brake controller on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited..


L. A.

5/12/2021

How do you install brake controller for a manual transmission I have a 2019 jeep wrangler sport unlimited. Help I am short so really have no space it, Have factory installed tow package.

Etrailer Expert

Jon G.

5/13/2021

You should be able to just use an adapter to plug into the OEM plug on your Jeep. For example, if you were to use the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite # RED44FR that it used in this video then you'll just need the Adapter # 3073-P .

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Andrew J
Test Fit:
Andrew J
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Shane H
Video by:
Shane H
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee John S
Video by:
John S
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.