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Reese Quick Install Base Rails Kit Installation - 2009 Chevrolet Silverado

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How to Install the Reese Quick Install Base Rails Kit on a 2009 Chevrolet Silverado

On this 2009 Chevrolet Silverado, we're going to review and install Part Number RP56007-53. This is Reese Quick Install Custom Base Rails and Outboard installation kit for fifth-wheel trailer hitches. All right, this is what the kit looks like when it's installed in our truck. First off, you can see a long, flat plate that fits on the side of the frame. Now, there are variations in the frame of this truck, so it will accommodate all versions. Now, this does bolt on to the side of the frame using the existing hole here and the fasteners actually work as a clamp on this side of the bracket. This is the passenger's side and this is basically identical to over on our driver's side. Now, when we install this kit, the rails, of course, need holes in the bed of the truck to attach bolts through. On other designs, these bolts are actually towards the inside.

What's the best part about this design is that the bolts are easy to reach on the outside of the vehicle. I have the truck actually lifted up a little bit, so the suspension's hanging down. Just makes things easier to see, but you can do this when you install it. With this style, it's a lot easier access to the fasteners to tighten them down, especially over on the driver's side where it was a problem in the past. All right, this is what our rails look like when they're installed in the bed. You notice, right off the bat, compared to the conventional ten-bolt design, that this is going to be a bit taller than the previous version. This gives it strength so it can handle a variety of different loads with the hitch. These are rated for 16,000 pound hitches, 20,000 pound hitches, and 25,000 hitches.

You're not limited to Reese brand hitches as well. This is a industry standard, so it will work with a variety of other hitches that are out there as well as goose-necked adapters. This is actually a good version for a vehicle that has a bed-liner in it. Since this is sitting a little taller than the bed-liner, it will be easier to install the pins. With the shorter ones, with the bed-liner, sometimes you've got to cut a little extra bed-liner to get the pins installed. Now, our hardware's all galvanized-finished and all our steel parts have a powder-coat finish to them. Next, we'll go ahead and show you how we installed this kit on our truck. To start off our install, we need to go ahead and marks in the bed of our truck. We need to measure out from the edge of the bed, not the tailgate, up to the measurement described in the instructions.

Double-check your instructions. There's two measurements for six-foot and eight-foot beds. Do one on each side of the bed and this is what the rail will sit up against. This edge will go to our marks and then we want to make sure we have it even from left to right. You can line up this hole with the center rib and that will get you in the ballpark. Then, you can make your measurements off the end of the rails and onto the fender wells. After you have it in place, we'll go ahead and mark and drill our holes that our installation kit will use. To drill and mark our holes, we're going to use the holes on the very end of our rail, here and here.

I'm going to use a half-inch drill bit just to make a mark and kind of keep it close to center. This is our passenger's side. We'll do the same thing on our driver's side. We'll also make a mark at the center of our rail, here, just one on the outside. Next, we're going to move the rail out of the way. Here's your marks and we're going to drill a small pilot hole first. This way it can be accurate as possible. Now, we'll leave all our pilot holes alone for now. Let's go underneath the truck and get it ready to install the brackets that go into the frame. Now, if you're installing the bottom of the truck and around the frame, it's a good idea, if you can, raise the suspension off the axle to give you plenty of working room. It also helps a lot also if you can take the wheels off. Don't have to, but it will make things a lot easier to tighten down the bolt. We're going to take ours off just to make things easy to see. We'll also take down the spare tire as well. Now, I have easier access to the frame here. This is our driver's side. This component, right here, is hidden behind the frame. You can see it right through the hole here and it's part of a brake controller. We need to loosen this up and install a new bracket on the brake controller component. Two bolts we have to remove, here and here, using a 10-millimeter socket. We actually don't have to take them out all the way. We can put them through these slots. Now, let's go ahead and mount to the bracket on the inside. All right, let's go ahead and fish out this component here. We'll take our brackets, slip it over the bolts. There's a little hole for this alignment pin, here, and we'll simply tighten it back down. We'll put this back into the same spot with this hole lining up with the oval hole. We'll arrange it so it doesn't interfere with anything else. We'll leave that alone, for now, until we install the hardware for the frame bracket. All right, let's take a moment and go ahead and take one of our frame brackets and see if it will fit on the truck. We're looking at our passenger side, here. This larger half will go towards the front of the truck. These bolt holes should line up with the holes we drilled earlier. This hole looks like it will line up with the oval hole that's in the frame. So, if we need to make any adjustments, we can do it now with the smaller holes. At this point, we can go ahead and drill the holes in the bed to our final hole size, which will 9/16ths. At this point, we'll take a moment to put our rail back over our holes, line it up, let it sit for now, and let's go ahead and install our frame brackets onto the frame. To install our frame bracket, button-head bolts, I use this Allen key bit, 5/8ths flat washer. Run that from the inside through the oval hole. Put our frame bracket in place using the same hole we did the test bit with, constitute washer, make sure the teeth in the washer always faces towards the hitch, then the 5/8ths nut. We'll just leave it loose for now. Now, work on the attachments, or the clamps, that go towards the front of the truck. I have a simple clamp here just holding it up to make things easier to see. This could be an extra set of hands holding it as well. We need to put this block between the frame bracket and the frame like this. Now, there are variations in the truck, so you may not even need this block. It could go on the outside. If it's flat, like this right here, then you can put the block on the outside. Now, the same style block goes behind the frame as well and it uses these long carriage bolts. So, I'll go ahead and slip behind it now and run it through the opening that's closest to the front of the truck and I'll also add my other block to the underneath. Loose install another constitute washer, a smaller one, and a half-inch nut. Same thing down at the bottom. Again, I'm going to keep everything loosely installed. Now, it's kind of hard to tell in the instructions, but this hole here and this hole, of course this one's a little bit longer . In the instructions, it looks like they have the longer hole down on the bottom. Okay, let's go ahead and repeat this same process on the driver's side and we'll show you how the 5/8ths button-head bolt works with the bracket going through. Remember our bracket for the brake controller component Same hardware as before, button-head bolt and a large, flat washer. Run that through the bracket, through the round hole in the bracket and through the oval hole in the frame. Make sure it's sitting the way you want it and then we'll go ahead and assemble our frame bracket just like we did before. Now, with our clamp on this side done, did run into a little bit of a difference. We couldn't run it all the way towards the front because the gas tank was here at the bottom and it wouldn't allow the strap to move forward. So, we just simply moved back one hole. Next, we'll go ahead and install our hardware, which will be the short carriage bolts into the holes we drilled out. Now, these bolts to the side here they should line up to the brackets underneath. Now, on our hardware on the bottom, we're going to take this U-shaped bracket, put it between the frame bracket, and the corrugation on top, here. That way we have complete metal to metal contact. On the bottom, we'll add another concrete washer and nut. This is our passenger's side. We'll repeat the same process over on our driver's side. Now, we're going to work for our second rail. We'll put it ahead of the first one, then we'll take the uprights from the fifth-wheel hitch. We'll use that to place our second rail. Now, you might have already a pre-assembled fifth-wheel. That'll work just fine. That'll put it in it's right spot, then you can fine tune it to make sure it's square with the front rail. Now, we'll mark and drill our holes just like we did with the front rail. We'll use these two square holes, here and here, and in the center, we'll use an outside hole, right here. We'll just mark them like we did before, drill in our pilot holes, make sure there in the right spot. The hole, back here, is at a little bit of an odd angle of the bed, so you have to be careful in drilling that one out. All right, let's go ahead and put our rail back into place and we'll install our carriage bolts like we did before. Once we have it in place, we'll go ahead and put the fifth-wheel back into place. I like to leave them in there during the tightening process to help guide them because these will move just a little bit as you tighten them down. Once again, we'll go ahead and install our hardware like we did before. Block inside here, make sure metal to metal contact and push the bracket up, install concrete washers and nuts. Done with our passenger side. One more time on our driver's side. Now, with all our hardware loosely installed, we'll go ahead and tighten it down. We'll start off with the bolts going through the bed first, here, bring up the plate. After we have that hand tightened and torqued down, then we'll go ahead and work on these bolts, here. We'll go ahead and tighten these down with 3/4-inch socket and then follow it up with a torque wrench to torque the bolts down as best by the instructions. Now, we'll tighten our frame bracket to our frame. We'll need a 15/16th socket for the nut and we'll use a 3/8ths hex-head bit on the other side of the button-head bolt. There it is. Now, we'll tighten this hardware down using a 3/4-inch socket. We're done with our passenger's side, here. Repeat the same process over on the driver's side. Last two fasteners that we'll tighten up will be the ones that are in the middle of the rails going across. We'll take another lock, put it in like that, another constitute washer, half-inch nut. One's done. Same thing on the other one. Got it. Got you. And that will finish it for the Reese Quick Install Custom Base Rails and Outboard installation kit, fifth-wheel trailer hitches, Part Number RP56007-53, on this 2009 Chevrolet Silverado.

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